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220219 Posts in 26530 Topics by 11425 Members Latest Member: - crazy1 Most online today: 682 - most online ever: 1307 (November 04, 2009, 10:28:54 PM)
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Share this topic on FacebookShare this topic on MySpaceShare this topic on DiggShare this topic on Twitter Topic: Mr T - The build  (Read 4584 times)
muskegtracker
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« Reply #45 on: October 19, 2009, 11:01:45 AM »

what winch is it a gorilla wireless?

Warn M8000.  It's sweet.
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djlantis57
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« Reply #46 on: October 21, 2009, 01:52:04 PM »

Nice job on the turbo manifold, now when you're done making yours (the prototype) when are you going to start on mine?  laugh
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90 Geo Tracker LSi 2dr tintop 5spd: 3" suspension/30" MT/Rs, K&N filter/Thorley header/cat/muffler, bumpers & sliders, lights, bigger battery, Warn hubs, CB/PA.  Earning the $$$ now for future mods
muskegtracker
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« Reply #47 on: October 30, 2009, 11:16:46 AM »

I made a comment in another thread about camber issues after lift spacers (here: http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php/topic,26603.new.html) so I thought I would post it here too:


I've been driving it for a while now.  Love it!  Excellent approach angle, good ride quality, and maximum use of strut travel.  Each ball joint mount was moved .5" out, 1.5" down, and 2" forward.  In the end it yielded 2" of lift at the frame rails.  I then did the strut mount flip and added 1.5" strut spacer to get my travel back.  My CV's run at a slight angle - nothing to worry about.  The best part is that it gave me approximately 2" of clearance under the whole front end.

As for the camber issues, I never even unbolted the struts for this mod,  When I assembled the final product the camber looked perfect.  I took it in for an alignment and they told me camber was bang on.  I would definitely recommend this mod to anyone looking to squeeze on larger tires, for more clearance, and maintaining stock ride qualities.  That said if I did it again I would not relocate the ball joint a full 2" as it did cause some minor clearance issues.  Probably 1"-1.5" would be right on.

You can check out a little video I made last weekend after installing a spool in the rear end.  In part of the video I drive up onto a large cement pipe without issue this demonstrates one of big benefits to the control arm mod. Evil  My stock toe-loop did snag a little on exit, but I'm planning on relocating that anyway.  I'm only running 235's.  I imagine if you put 31's or 33's on it the tires would stick out past most of the offending chassis points.



« Last Edit: October 30, 2009, 11:18:17 AM by muskegtracker » Logged
zukimoo
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« Reply #48 on: October 31, 2009, 03:14:10 PM »

nice build...what did you use for the manifold pipe?  Are  they schedual 40 elbows?  I dropped a rod on my engine too and it made a big mess. keep the pics coming and good luck with the build.
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muskegtracker
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« Reply #49 on: November 02, 2009, 08:45:05 AM »

nice build...what did you use for the manifold pipe?  Are  they schedual 40 elbows?  I dropped a rod on my engine too and it made a big mess. keep the pics coming and good luck with the build.

Thanks!  Yah, I used SCH 40 elbows. 
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Lindenmooch
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« Reply #50 on: November 02, 2009, 09:02:12 PM »

Sweet lord I love this thing!  Moar pics!!!!!    Sad


And you gotta tell me how you pulled the motor out and rebuilt it!   If I ever get around to doing mine....I'll need some help for sure.   Huh

I'd like to at least put a 16v head on my crappy little 8v 1.6 liter motor.  All depends on what kind of budget I let myself have for this "project".


/subscribed forever!
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Pics of my favorite money pit can be seen at the link below.  =)


http://s33.photobucket.com/albums/d51/hornetking/Geo%20Tracker/
muskegtracker
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« Reply #51 on: November 09, 2009, 10:11:43 AM »

Thanks!  I don't really have much to say about an engine rebuild...I definitely don't have any pictures of it.  It's pretty much just like you see in a Haynes manual or other similar book.  I had some great tips and help from a local machine shop as it was my first rebuild, and so far my only rebuild.



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Mikerpm4x4
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« Reply #52 on: November 12, 2009, 06:57:45 PM »

I just wanted to say I love the build so far. I really like the control arm mod a lot. Great idea.
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If your not living life to the fullest then your not living at all.

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« Reply #53 on: November 14, 2009, 11:58:39 PM »

Awesome video!  Now I REALLY want a spool!!!     Shocked
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muskegtracker
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« Reply #54 on: November 16, 2009, 12:52:47 PM »

Thanks guys!

Here are some better pics of the hood and winch bumper:





and this is how we load 'em:




« Last Edit: November 16, 2009, 12:58:25 PM by muskegtracker » Logged
muskegtracker
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« Reply #55 on: December 14, 2009, 12:49:49 PM »

So,  a couple of issues have come up:

#1 - the turbo is in need of a major rebuild: New turbine and shaft, compressor wheel, etc.
#2 - the front seal on the engine leaks, very badly. (It should have been rebuilt before I installed it...oh well.)

I weighed my options and costs and decided to begin a casual search for a V6.  Not just any V6, but an aluminum block V6.  I want the power and torque of the V6 without the mondo weight of cast iron.

A mighty miracle occured!  I scored a 2006 XL-7 for a VERY good price with only 76,000kms.  So now,  instead of a 80 hp hamster, or the 100 - 120+ hp hamster on a leaf blower (Thanks Chris), it'll be a 185 hp dual overhead cam, 24 valve, raging fury!  Evil  PLUS I'll be running the 5 speed auto tranny instead of the 5 speed manual I'm currently running.


The XL-7 when I first picked it up.

The reason it was cheap.

Naked XL-7!  It's amazing how many similarities in chassis design and dimension between the old and the new.

Mr T - body removal (The John Deere Method)





A comparison photo:

Mr T with the new engine and tranny sitting in place!






I did all this over the course of two long Saturdays.  Now I just need to fab up some new engine mounts!  The tranny mount should bolt right up, in the stock location.

I'm sure some of you are wondering about the driveline: Yes, the tranny is about 5 inches longer, the front drive shaft from the XL-7 is longer than the tracker original and will bolt up, the rear drive shaft will have to be shortened approx 5 inches.
« Last Edit: December 14, 2009, 12:55:31 PM by muskegtracker » Logged
Bryce132
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« Reply #56 on: December 14, 2009, 01:51:20 PM »

Wow, those look so much alike! Shorten her up and you could have another tracker!
Impressive work, going to be sweet. Now you can turn bigger meats if you wish with no problem!
What are you doin with the steel front diff/thirdmember?

Bryce
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muskegtracker
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« Reply #57 on: December 14, 2009, 02:51:44 PM »

...What are you doin with the steel front diff/thirdmember?

Bryce

I'm pretty sure I'll use it.  If I don't I'll let you know.  Wink  I've actually got quite a few things that I will be trying to swap over, including the front brakes, CV's, rack and pinion.  I'll probably build a disc conversion so the rear can accept the original brakes from the front.  We'll see how far I take it...

Oh that reminds me!  If anyone needs cosmetic parts from a 2006 XL-7 I've got some.  Like -Fenders, Headlights,Taillights, Side molding, Carpet, Spare tire cover, Doors, etc.  I'll be posting items with pictures in the classifieds in the next few days.

Thanks for looking
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BARLEY
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No One Lives Forever...


« Reply #58 on: December 14, 2009, 05:55:41 PM »

Hold on guys...I gotta go grab my crane to move my tracker body around...Show off! haha  Tongue
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BRD HNTR
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« Reply #59 on: December 23, 2009, 03:22:10 PM »

I like your motor change procedure.  I am trying to squeeze my 2.7 in from the top, and have tight clearance issues.  Now that I see yours just sitting there it gives me more inspiration.  I scored the motor/tranny/ecm & wiring, but have found lots of broken parts, and being newer vintage, some parts are hard to find.  Getting the donor vehicle is going to be a major plus for you.  How does the pan and rear crossmember look?  As you start fastening it down, I would really enjoy some closeup photos. 
Your body removal tool is awesome.  Keep the photos coming.
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92 Tracker,4 door springs & 1" raised spring pads in front with 3/4" coil spacer & 2"strut spacers, , home built bumpers rear & front (w/winch), 2" x 4" rock tubes, locked rear, ARB in converted Sami rear to IFS, 30x9.5 on 15" aluminum rims.
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