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Author Topic: Clutch problem, wont disengage  (Read 1483 times)

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Offline Skunk

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Clutch problem, wont disengage
« on: March 11, 2005, 02:32:10 PM »
so I took the tracker to get inspected, got to the place, then went to move it into the garage, backed it up, then it wouldnt go into gear, it acted as if the clutch cable was broken but it wasnt, when the clutch is out, it makes a wizzing sound, when the clutch pedal is in, the noice gets louder, but still the clutch wont disengage, I put the tranny in 1st and turn it over, the truck moves with the clutch pedal in and out the same. Pilot bearing maybe? dont know these trucks to well yet. Thanx for any input.
98 SFA Explorer - D44 front, 8.8 rear both locked on 35's, Man. T-case, Warn XD9000i

94 Tracker  Toy locked axles 5.29 r/p's, toy steering, 4.24 t-case, 35" MT's, YJ leafs, warn 9500hs

Offline ROSS

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Re: Clutch problem, wont disengage
« Reply #1 on: March 11, 2005, 02:36:01 PM »
SOUDS LIKE THROWOUT BEARING

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87 SAMI 1600 FUEL INJ. , TORQUER CAM, 6.5 TO 1T-CASE, 5"SPRINGS SHACKLE REVERSE ,2 BODY LIFT, LOCK-RITES FRONT W/ HEAVY-DUTY AXLES & ARB'S REAR  BFG 31 X10.50 X 16",  EXO SKELLETON,

Offline Skunk

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Re: Clutch problem, wont disengage
« Reply #2 on: March 11, 2005, 05:10:05 PM »
well i figure Ill just put a whole new clutch kit in, it kills me but Im gonna have to find a shop or a friend to help as I receintly had open heart surgery and the doc said I cant balance a tranny/t-case on my chest anymore....  ???
98 SFA Explorer - D44 front, 8.8 rear both locked on 35's, Man. T-case, Warn XD9000i

94 Tracker  Toy locked axles 5.29 r/p's, toy steering, 4.24 t-case, 35" MT's, YJ leafs, warn 9500hs

Offline Zukipilot

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Re: Clutch problem, wont disengage
« Reply #3 on: March 12, 2005, 01:07:24 AM »
Just check the Cable ;) Have someone step on the clutch with you watching the cable (inside the engine compartment) They get over heated and the casing breaks down with time allowing it to Kink instead of slide within the housing (this problem gets ALLOT worse if you have an aftermarket header.

If the vehicle is 'cold and you see it barely moving in one place, let it idle and heat up the cable and you'll probably see it jump around after heating up.

You can also watch the clutch arm on the side of the trans. If the cable is not kinking and the arm is not moving much whrn the pedal is pushed, your cable has some broeken strands and is streaching in the casing.

HTH,
Zig
« Last Edit: March 12, 2005, 01:08:16 AM by Zukipilot »
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Offline Zukipilot

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Re: Clutch problem, wont disengage
« Reply #4 on: March 12, 2005, 01:11:20 AM »
Oh yea, I just thought of something else. I put a new clutch cable in one time and did not  tighten the adjuster lock nut down. After about 50 miles of use I heard a slight POP and then no clutch. All that had happned was the adjuster had slid off the bracket because my DA did not tighten the lock nut down after adjusting it :P

Zig
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Offline Rhinoman

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Re: Clutch problem, wont disengage
« Reply #5 on: March 12, 2005, 10:34:54 AM »
Been in the mud? This has happened to me a couple of times. Once the clutch wouldn't disengage, the next time it stuck disengaged. Watery mud/dirt had got under the throwout bearing and when it dried it seized solid. Now the shaft is a bit more worn it doesn't happen any more. Just in case i drilled and tapped a hole under the bearing so I could squirt some WD40 on it if it happened again.
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Offline Skunk

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Re: Clutch problem, wont disengage
« Reply #6 on: March 12, 2005, 12:03:20 PM »
no mud.... I got under the truck, had someone push the clutch in... it didnt go too far, I was able to push the lever the rest of the way by hand (not easy), I then tried to adjust the cable by tightening the nut on the end ... then it just broke off, so Ill have a new cable in tomorrow and see how it works out then....
98 SFA Explorer - D44 front, 8.8 rear both locked on 35's, Man. T-case, Warn XD9000i

94 Tracker  Toy locked axles 5.29 r/p's, toy steering, 4.24 t-case, 35" MT's, YJ leafs, warn 9500hs

Offline Mel Taylor

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Re: Clutch problem, wont disengage
« Reply #7 on: March 12, 2005, 12:19:03 PM »
Does this stretched cable syndrome apply to the Samurai as well?

I just bought a stock 88 Samurai for $700.00. The guy I got it from claims he replaced the clutch about a year ago and for the first few weeks it worked fine, then the cable stretched and he couldn't disengage the clutch.

He has been driving it to work and back (a distance of 4 or 5 miles each way)  most of the time since then by starting it in first and shifting by sound and feel. I rode in it and he went through all five gears with nary a grind or crunch (wish I could do that) and the clutch was obviously engaged and not slipping.

The Haynes manual makes replacing the cable look like a piece of cake.  Is there anything I need to watch out for that the book doesn't reveal? And lastly, Is any one brand or vendor to be prefered or avoided over another?

TIA.

Mel

When you hold the shift key down and type 4X4 it comes out $X$. Could anything be more appropriate?

Offline Skunk

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Re: Clutch problem, wont disengage
« Reply #8 on: March 13, 2005, 06:58:58 AM »
Update:

I was the clutch cable, easy to replace, just had to make a few adjustments on the pedal end, not a big deal. so its all fixed now.

Thanx for the help
98 SFA Explorer - D44 front, 8.8 rear both locked on 35's, Man. T-case, Warn XD9000i

94 Tracker  Toy locked axles 5.29 r/p's, toy steering, 4.24 t-case, 35" MT's, YJ leafs, warn 9500hs

Offline azrocktrash

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Re: Clutch problem, wont disengage
« Reply #9 on: March 13, 2005, 10:57:44 AM »
Quote
Does this stretched cable syndrome apply to the Samurai as well?

I just bought a stock 88 Samurai for $700.00. The guy I got it from claims he replaced the clutch about a year ago and for the first few weeks it worked fine, then the cable stretched and he couldn't disengage the clutch.

He has been driving it to work and back (a distance of 4 or 5 miles each way)  most of the time since then by starting it in first and shifting by sound and feel. I rode in it and he went through all five gears with nary a grind or crunch (wish I could do that) and the clutch was obviously engaged and not slipping.

The Haynes manual makes replacing the cable look like a piece of cake.  Is there anything I need to watch out for that the book doesn't reveal? And lastly, Is any one brand or vendor to be prefered or avoided over another?

TIA.

Mel




 yes it does apply to the sami also.found that most aftermaket ones wear out faster than a stock replacement. they are easy to replace.
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