Thats good to hear. Please post the details here so its archived. People do ask about this conversion from time to time.
OK here goes,
First thing, there is no difference between the bodys (mounting points) of a factory 4x4 and 2x4. All the hard points are there, so save all the bolts from the salvage vehicle. Second the only difference between the 2dr and the 4dr is drive shaft length, front AND back, these must be from a vehicle with the same # of doors except the Z90, it's front drive shaft fits the 4dr and rear fits 2dr. Third the transfer will fit standard OR auto, years are not much of a problem until you start changing engine size, IE 1.6L to a 1.8L. My tranny had a transfer on it as a 2x4, housings were exactly alike, so I kept the old case so I could build a spare with crawler gears. Note: there is one bolt longer then the others that hold the transfer to the trans and it is located at the top center of the transfer, if you have a standard remove the 2 or so bolts holding the shifter to the TRANS to remove it, on automatics remove the shifter from where it bolts to the BODY inside the truck to get to it.
Specs: My truck= 94, 4dr, 2x4, auto, 1.6L, 16v, 5.12 rear diff
Donor truck= 89, 2dr, manual, 1.6L, 8v, 5.12 front and rear diff ( I got lucky with the gears)
Could not use the rear diff from donor vehicle because mine has ABS (rear), you need what is called the exciter ring or your brakes wont work correctly and this ring is attached to the rear diff. The only surprise I got was with the front wheel bearing spindles, the 2x4 spindle is about an eighth of an inch to small inside for the CV shaft to fit through it, so if you have a metel lathe you can cut this out but need to install the brass bushing that the CV shaft rides in. Don't panic, this is much simpler than it seems, the bearing spindle is NOT part of the knuckle. Remove you front tire, remove the caliper as a whole (brake line still attached), remove the disc, then the 4 bolts to the dust sheld, tap with a rubber hammer and there you have the hub, bearings and spindle with dust sheld. In the knuckle, knock out the metal cup and install the inner CV seal from the donor, these tap out easy and are usually still in good shape since 4x4 is not used so much as to wear them out and on the donor vehicle there was no sign of grease outside the seal. After all that you can use the entire hub, bearings and spindle from the donor vehicle, I couldn't do that because the donor vehicle had set for so long the bearings froze to the spindle, so I got some from a guy in AR through Ebay from a 93 Tracker for $40.00. I opted to use my bearings and hub, exact fit. The CV shafts were in good shape so I cleaned them up cut off the outer boots, they both had split, cleaned the joint throughly with brake parts cleaner removing ALL the old grease and grit, lubed with CV grease using a needle on my grease gun (they are at any parts store) making sure the get grease all the way inside the joint and installed new split boots. BTW avoid a guy who uses Ebay a lot by the name of CVman at CV restoration, he is a real pain in the ass. Buy local or use Ebay stores to buy these, I found a set for about $20.00. Next, assembly, much the same as how you took it apart except the wiring harness, if you want your lights on your dash to work then take the harness from the donor vehicle and follow the wires from the black and white plugs (4wd and 4wd low) to the main harness plug and with a very small screwdriver depress the small lock tab in the harness so they can be gently removed and added to the harness already in the truck (do some investigating to make sure you connect the 3 wires correctly). Removing my harness and reinstalling it was the hardest part of this whole project, if you are not worried about having the dash lights then this step is not needed, but keep in mind there is an input to your computer from the 4x4 LOW, I think it has something to do with max RPMs. Don't forget bulbs for your 4wd and L in the dash. Also the 4x4 shifter boot is smaller for a 2dr (6 screws hold it in) the 4dr has 8 screws and the shifters themselves are slightly different, to remove the shifter put it in 4high and simply pull up the rubber boot, push down on the collar around the shifter (it will have what resembles a square hole) about an eighth inch and turn about an eighth turn counterclockwise and out it comes, the shifter can go in backwards if you need it to point at a different angle, mine was blocking my cup holder, or you try to bend it or turn the metal part attached at the top, be carefull. Another note is you do NOT have to remove the rear crossframe support on the trans to remove the transfer on a 4dr, on a 2dr you DO, also there is a slight differance in location for the transfer tork mount (the round one) between the 2dr and 4dr but the mounts are EXACTLY the same, so again don't get intimidated by the thought of a conversion it was a lot of fun.
Man, now my head hurts.
PS: I have some really nice CDROM manuals for ZUKs, so if anyone needs wire diagrams or spec's I can email them, just trying to help out.
