Well guys.......I'm bbbbbaaaaccccck


Heres the plan

*Get it workin*

- Swap in engine from original project and 5 spd I have here
- Other repairs as needed. (like 4 tires the same size), make it safe to drive.

*Base line performance tests*

- 0 to 50km (sec)
- gas mileage

*Stage One "A"* Full on line Tune up (A How to:)
- Compression Test
- Oil Change
- Rotor/Cap replacement
- Plugs wires/plug change
- Fuel filter change
- Check and set timing
- Valve adjustment


*Stage One "B"* Cheap Power (Best Bang for the Least Buck, IMHO)
- Retard upper cam gear 1 tooth (approx 6 degrees), timing belt install at same time
- 20% speed reduction crank pulley
- Fan blade and clutch replaced with manually switched electric fan
- 2" TBI Spacer
- Low restriction aircleaner/filter assembly
- 2 1/2" exhaust adapted to stock down pipe and using Turbo type muffler

*Re test as above*

*Stage Two "A"* Checking the Suspension
- Ball joints
- Tie rod ends
- Struts and Shocks
- Rear Suspension arms

*Stage Two "B"* Suspension lowering/lifting(I'm going lower but you can go up with the same steps)
- Installing lowers with spring pockets (or you can add spacers)
- Custom upper shock mounts ( or you can flip your strut mounts if you're raising)
- New struts
- Cut bump stops ( not required on a lift)
- Removing/Cutting/Re-installing rear springs (time for rear spring spacers on a lift)
- New shocks

*Stage Two "C" Handling package (Not for off road or raised Zuks)
- Doubled front sway bars
- Rear suspension limiting straps
- 235-60-15 Tires on Chrome tracker rims
- Alignment

*Stage Three*
- Clean up body work (functional and tolerable not show)
- Add fender flares (to hide rear wheel arch rust)
- Cold Air induction scoop. With block off plate for Alberta winters
- Grille mounted auxillary lights
- DIY paint job (repaint) and Zukiworld Windshield decal
- Tint windows


Lets me test all the bits I've been working on.......
I can justify as daily driver.......
Still can go trail runnin.....


Total lowering about 2.5-3" (5.5-6" total clearance to the frame rails behind front wheel/ahead of rear)
HP, I'll find out for sure, but guess around a 85-90
Want to keep weight pretty close to stock


Heres the pics....





     What you don't see really is the almost gone front of the rear wheel arch and the rotten rear gate door.

     But back to work....tonight I'm pulling the duff 300km motor and installing a good runner with 224km (good compression, ran excellent, doesn't use any oil)

     If we keep comments on the "RallyKick Comments" thread maybe Eric will make an article for future reference from this one

Tommorow

Zag

Well we worked till about 2-3am and jammed the running engine in

     Kinda dissappointed at the way it looks, I did all that work but were in such a rush I didn't clean things up really....Looks about the same as yesterday, but runs, don't knock or smoke. I guess paint and goodies as I go.

     Heres the pic of the installed 1.6/8v....224km compression 150 across, runs Xlnt, still have to sort tires and figure out whats wrong with the trans before we start first tests.
     But everything in the engine bay is now good.



Hope to have the rest done tonight

Zag

Man, At least you could have cleaned it
Whats the time for R/R?  8hrs?
Good to see it movin forward.

Man you're right I should've cleaned it

R&R time 4.5 hrs......
Engine, parts, oil etc, it runs and I already had all the parts......

Busted knuckles, minor blood loss, wifes Mastercard for the bandages......priceless

Zag

Ever notice whenever you rush it ends up taking longer.....

     When I swapped the engine and trans the other night I did'nt pull the clutch off the engine we used, seemed ok when we tested the engine, don't need to worry aboout it...wrong.
     Got everything else checked yesterday, tune up, brakes, suspension, steering, even got 4 of the same tires on the RallyKick (2 different brands of 205-75-15, but good enough for testing).
     Well caught up with me last night...doing the first 0-50km run the clutch failed, think it's the pressure plate.
     Anyway trans has to come out and the clutch get fixed.....base testing and results will come when repaired.

Zag

Ok we are back in action

This is the RallyKick...all fixed (again), checked over, cleaned up, safe to drive and bone stock





Did (5) 0-50kph (about 31mph) runs as base tests and get an average of   10.5 sec

Gas mileage after 500km hi way trip works out to                                        25 mpUSg

Don't know how that compares but thats what my stop watch says

- 1991 Stock JLX SideKick 4dr
- 1.6/8v engine 224km...compression 150 across...runs excellent...tuned to spec
- Stock 5 speed
- 5.38:1 gears....confirmed
- P205-75-15 tires
- 2734LBS on the trucker scales w 1/2 tank of gas (converted from kg, hope I'didn't screw up)

Safe to say...Step one complete

Zag

Hi Gang

Project RallyKick is coming back on stream............

     You will notice if you go back to the start of the thread that I've made some changes to the plan and heres why..........

- I see an awful lot of newbies on the board lately and wanted to address some basics
- I needed to alter things for my personal budget
- I always admit when I'm wrong but I hate it.....while checking measurements I discovered I
  was going too low with the 2.5-3" drop and the tires I was planning I would have only had
  4" or ground clearance to the frame....need 5.5-6" to be safe for the Rally work.

Sorry for the delays but it has been a tough summer in the Parts business.

Zag

Lets keep the comments thread going still for input etc.

Did (5) 0-50kph (about 31mph) runs as base tests and get an average of   10.5 sec

How about some top gear roll on tests too, say 50-70mph.

zag ...

does this have RWAL? (I don't know what/when models got RWAL, but my '93 4dr has it, which surprised me!)


are you still going to regear? what to 5.12 or 4.62?

Here are the pics I promised..........


The first 2 are for HotRod......notice the nicely detailed engine bay




The nice interior



And the body is workable





Rhinoman
     Initially I will do the 0-50km tests for comparison, but I do want to expand the format to get broader results so the 80km-110km test is in the future.

Snofalls
     No this one doesn't have the RWAL, I don't know when they started? But it doesn't. I will be re-gearing to 5.12's a little farther down the road, as I want to add a LSD when the budget permits...but for the short term I'll stick with whats there. And I'll remember the dibs!

Zag
 

Oh, man, you have the "Dish Dash".  I am SO envious of you!
I really MISS my 91 4-door - that's the last year of the Dish Dash in the US.

I love my dish dash! Its full of junk all the time!

Zaggs when you gonna do the engine mods? interested in knowing if retarding the timing belt does anything.

I'll start the tune up and engine mods this weekend

     Yes the timing belt retarding does work...tried it on the aircraft engine, details are on that thread but got measurable results.

Zag

I need to get a net for the "dish dash" in my 2dr ... I usually get it full of stuff, get on a climb, and it all dumps onto the floor! (or the lap of the co-pilot).

I do miss it tho in the '93 4dr ...

hey zag

 i was just wondering??? i 've got the twin to your ride .. how do you tell which gearing you have.. is it tagged on the rear diff? or can i just get it off the serial#... i think i't's 5.32's but not sure just a guess......
                                                               thanks  dwayne