Well I had intended to simply upgrade my suspension.   Got the back springs and shocks in on Monday afternoon then started on the front end installation the next day.  As I started pulling parts off it occurred to me with 150K on the truck there were parts that were obviously shot and needed replaced and several others were questionable or I knew would be questionable within days, weeks or a few months after I had completed the suspension installation (cause that's Murphy's law).  While I was disassembling the suspension I noticed (for the third time) that my radiator was again leaking.   I really love the peeps at O'Reilly, they are very good people, but I have to wonder about the quality control of the Murray brand radiators they carry.  I don't know if i got a bad production run for 2 Liter Trackers, or if others have had similar experiences.

I started taking the front end apart.  I noticed both lower floating caliper pins were almost seized, so I put the caliper plate in the vice, worked the pins loose with vice grips, then cleaned them both well on a wire wheel, cleaned out the throats and coated both surfaces with anti-seize compound and reassembled with new rubber boots to protect the pins from the elements.  The right front strut mount was totally toasted and had separated.

I had intended to replace both front diff carrier seals... but it occurred to me I had it all stripped down so I decided to go ahead and install the 4.88 gear set and step up from the stock 4.62 gears.  I had the actuator ring spot welded on the diff so I shouldn't have the worry of either the pump or the acutator diaphragm rupturing in the future causing the loss of the front wheel drive.... which would cause me to have to again disassemble the front end to correct/repair/replace a part.

Reassembled the front end with new A-arms, CVs, strut mounts, sway bar bushings and Moog links and installed the new struts and springs.

I had the local Meineke install my initial Hoepkers coil spring spacer lift FOUR years ago and when I removed my front springs I discovered they had dis-carded my original coil spring isolators... so I decided to use the front coil spacers for isolators and my neighbor cut them down for this purpose with his lathe.  They are 3/8' thick which may be an 1/8th thicker than the stock rubber isolators... but I wanted to ensure the springs remained separated (isolated) from the steel of the coil pockets to prevent noise and erosion of the spring pocket metal. With the front carrier actuator ring welded I needed to install manual locking hubs so the wheels could roll independently of the axle.

Are those struts OME and do they come with the boots?

Yes they are OME but the boots were not part of the price (sadly).  Boots should be a part of any strut to protect the piston surface. But they don't come with them?

I had the local Meineke install my initial Hoepkers coil spring spacer lift FOUR years ago and when I removed my front springs I discovered they had dis-carded my original coil spring isolators... so I decided to use the front coil spacers for isolators and my neighbor cut them down for this purpose with his lathe.  They are 3/8' thick which may be an 1/8th thicker than the stock rubber isolators... but I wanted to ensure the springs remained separated (isolated) from the steel of the coil pockets to prevent noise and erosion of the spring pocket metal. With the front carrier actuator ring welded I needed to install manual locking hubs so the wheels could roll independently of the axle.

Were those polyurethane spacers?  If they were I would suggest you reinspect the installation in a few months time - I've had poly bushings trimmed on a lathe simply crumble & disintegrate - they seem to need a very sharp knife.

I got the front end re-assembled.  A couple notes from my recent experience (from the point of NOT being anyway near a professional tech person).  

The front bolts securing the A-arms will be seized in the bushing sleeve and unless someone knows some magic they require cutting out to remove/replace the A-arm.  I coated the new A arm bolts and the sleeves with anti-seize compound so should I have to dis-assemble the front end in the future no bolt cutting should be required.  All the final tightening of the suspension parts (A-arms, sway bar, etc) should be performed with the vehicle weight resting on the ground.

Removing the CV shafts.... I used a GM tool which is simply a yoke shaped piece of steel which is wide enough to slide into the passenger side gap between the CV and housing.  Then you pry while rotating the Cv to ensure you center up the "C" clip in the diff.  How much force does it require?   Gorilla arms help.  On the drivers side inner shaft I used the same yoke tool with the addition of a 1 1/2 pound hammer.  Same deal, rotate shaft between love taps to remove the shaft.  Reverse assembly was a bit different.  The passenger side popped right in with little effort.  The driver side required a few stiff blows with a dead blow hammer.  The driver side housing seal required seating deeper than the passenger side because the driver side inner axle flange is very close to the housing.

No, the coil spacers Jeff Hoepkers sells are built out of molded UHW (?) when I removed the spacers (after 4 years and about 70K+ miles) there was no cracking or chipping evident, and the only impression I found on them is where the upper pigtail of the spring imprinted into the UHW(?) about 1/16th of an inch.  This stuff is tough!

You can actually see the slight impression of the spring in the above pic. 

Self-inflicted wound, but I had Buster up on jack stands for about two weeks during the upgrades.  I used rockauto.com for many of the parts and I can highly recommend them to anyone.  I also used NAPA on line, and although they DID deliver quality parts... it took about a week+ to receive them.  Part of this delay I am sure is the simple fact that our trucks are not really mainstream vehicles.  We are a bit of freaks as are our trucks, I guess.  Receipt of all the parts would have been MUCH more timely if I had realized everything I ended up replacing up front BEFORE the project began.

For example, I decided to go ahead and purchase the timing chain set.... when I pulled the radiator.    Well, I still have it, but haven't installed it yet.  Pulling the radiator is a piece of cake on these trucks.  Pulling it for the 4th time should be quite a bit quicker.

Anyway, so I had the suspension installed, the front end parts replaced, cleaned, etc and Buster back on his wheels.  I had difficulty getting the washer AND the snap ring back onto the passenger side CV axle.  I ended up polishing a few thousands off both washer and snap ring, slid them back over the spline, reached in to the CV and spun it by hand about 3/4 of a turn and heard the snap ring 'pop' into place.   That was a relief.

So that left installation of the rear 4.88 gears.....

A couple days ago I took Buster down to my local hero... Norm Day who STILL operates the station that has been in his family for over 80 years.  Norm Day's main claim to fame is he began NHRA racing his personally modified '55 Chevy in the late '50s until 1969 and then moved to fuelers, funny cars, etc, and has worked and raced with the biggies like Don Garletts, TV Tommy Ivo, etc.   Norm Day was custom designing and building his own small block Chevy intake manifolds before the big name companies like Edelbrock and Wiend were in to it.  He raced in North America and a couple times in Europe as well.  He was hurting people on the strip with his '55 too.  He still owns it.

Well, the truth of the matter is drum brakes drive me crazy.  I cannot, for the life of me get the hang of how they are assembled.... so the damned brake will work correctly when I am done (that's kind of important to me).  Anyway... off I went to Norm's place.  He has a guy working for him named Don and this guy eats, sleeps and probably showers thinking about turning wrenches on autos.  He is a really good man and I enjoy his company a lot.  Long story short, got the 4.88 gears into the back of Buster... and Don persuaded me to go ahead and install the Richmond Gear Lock Right locker (I've had for over a year) into the diff.  I had been on and off again about installing this thing into my rear diff.  I decided to go ahead and install it.  I was concerned that when I opened up the diff to remove the spyder gears and install the drivers I would find either the axle drive gears were excessively worn OR I'd need another or different shim, etc.  BLUF:  The ring, pinion, axle gears were in GREAT shape and literally (beyond cleaning the parts and keeping track of caps and bearings - left and right) the install was slick.  The axles pulled out easy enough without disconnecting the emergency brake.  We just pulled the drum, unbolted the 4 axle retaining bolts on the back side of the hub, pried up on the brake spring while we popped it two or three times with a slide hammer and out she came so no disassembly of the rear brakes was even required.  While the axles were out we cleaned and re-packed the axle shaft bearings and installed new seals.  Was able to pull out slightly on the rear brake assembly to pry the seal out and clean the area for the new seal.  Same with applying RV sealer on the mating surfaces during reassembly.   The final piece I have to complete is running studs into the hubs to secure the WARN hubs securely.  Bolts don't get the job done.  They walk on you.  I also purchased a threading tool (8 X 1.25) to clean out the holes before I install the studs and locktite them in.  

Final comments and thoughts:

These little trucks are really well built for the cost.  Yes, there are some cheesy "yuppie inspired" parts like the air actuated front diffs... but still these trucks are impressive.  12 bolt ring gears in the rear for example.   I wish the axles were as thick throughout their length as they are at the wheels.  They would be MONSTERS.  Norm Day came up and was checking the run out of the ring gear and he was impressed with how tight the diff was, giving the fact it had over 100K on it.  He was very impressed.

OME suspension - I had the OME springs under one of my trucks before and I liked them.  The whole system together is very nice.  Very firm yet comfortable ride and they eat up the bumps in the road.

The 4.88 gear upgrade from the 4.62s... I like it.  I run 235/75 series tires and the 4.88s put me right back 'on the money' with my speedo.  The other side affect of course is I have also regained more mechanical advantage in my 4-low range as well.

Richmond Gear Lock-Rite locker... I am surprised to say it behaves very well on the road.  I ran Buster with the rear axle suspended in the air for about five minutes to get the lube circulated through the diff gears.  Then I took Buster out to Norm's gravel parking lot after the install and proved it does indeed lock up the rear axle.  Locking in the front diff, giving it the gas... it just goes with little to no gravel thrown.   I do notice the occasional ratcheting sound when cornering.  It is very slight and I don't hear it at each turn.  Richmond Gear stated this is the sound of their Lock Right working as it should. No biggie at all.  I have had a couple of loud pops when the locker unloads... but all in all so far, I am glad I went ahead and installed it.  Awaiting winter to see how predictable it drives on snow covered roads.

Yes they are OME but the boots were not part of the price (sadly).  Boots should be a part of any strut to protect the piston surface. But they don't come with them?

I just checked my GV - the front struts have a plastic sleeve over the piston rod - sort of like the metal sleeve that's on the rear shocks, but made of plastic.  I had assumed that the front struts were OEM but now I have to conclude they are probably not.  I will most likely be ordering OME struts for the front in November - I already have the rear shocks sitting on the shelf here - I guess I'll order boots from LowRange offRoad at the same time I order the struts.

Edit - spelling coorection.

I'm thinking the original struts on Suzukis and Trackers did have a sleeve over the piston (as you described), so those may well be OEM.   I recall trying to get the strut shaft out of the strut mount when I had the lift installed on Buster four years ago.  The old struts HAD a sleeve over them, but I couldn't get the two separated so I ended up buying the after market accordion style covers (like in the above pics) for the new struts.   I've ran a set for four years now and they have held up great.  Even on the side I continually blew struts on.

If your strut shafts separate cleanly from your strut mounts you should be able to slide those covers off the old struts and slide them back onto the new struts.  But then again the OME struts MAY have a larger diameter body on them.  I have not actually checked this, but it occurred to me this may be true.  I know the rear nitrogen OME shocks were chubbies compared to standard size shocks.
The OME shocks have a 2 year warranty as well.