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Sidekick Sport build 2

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Re: Sidekick Sport build 2
« Reply #78 on: December 09, 2018, 08:01:24 PM »
First drive and first time at night. The speaker pods are not visible in rear view mirror at night. There is no visibility interference. I took the attached photo with the LED panel installed in the dome light. It works with the dor switch and the local switch.

The headliner will probably come out again for cleaning and to install insulation above the headliner. I have already covered most of the roof with constraint layer damper. It is noticeably quiter, but still louder than I want.  The doors also have CLD covering about 25%.

Re: Sidekick Sport build 2
« Reply #77 on: December 08, 2018, 06:03:11 PM »
Cargo dome light is all wired in, and working now. It's nice having light behind the rear seat.

Re: Sidekick Sport build 2
« Reply #76 on: December 08, 2018, 06:32:47 AM »
He was charged for theft and for possession of identification not his. I'm not sure what the exact charges were named. He had enough of my ID to create a major issue; passport, CAC card, and  various security badges.


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Re: Sidekick Sport build 2
« Reply #75 on: December 07, 2018, 09:34:37 PM »
Nice lookin' Sport!
Hope the thief is held responsible for ALL the damage and is charged
with a felony! :police:

Re: Sidekick Sport build 2
« Reply #74 on: December 07, 2018, 06:10:55 PM »
I finished another non-hardcore mod. I have been holding on to this stuff until I had time to finish it. It started raining right before I was complete, but I only need a little time to install the interior plastics and make one electrical tie in.

I read an old post about using rear surface mount speakers from a 97 Izuzu Rodeo. I tracked down a complete setup, with upgraded Sony speakers. I wasn't able get my headliner in with the Izuzu bar, so I cut it up and added alumunim mounts, secured with rivets. I also added thick double sided body adhesive to keep it from rattling.

The other mod was installing a dome light for cargo area. I had saved the factory dome light from my other Sport. This was something I wanted to do for several years.
« Last Edit: December 07, 2018, 06:12:37 PM by Ridjobradi »

Re: Sidekick Sport build 2
« Reply #73 on: November 28, 2018, 11:02:25 PM »
New multi-switch with cruise installed. I still need to connect the sub harness. My hands are too big to get to some of them, so I'm plannit out a little at a time. I want to be sure I can get to every connection, before I remove the others.

Re: Sidekick Sport build 2
« Reply #72 on: October 28, 2018, 08:44:59 AM »
4 in the afternoon, with dark tint in the rear. They caught the guy, with my back pack the evening after. All of my electronics are gone, all of my clothes including an expensive blaser and a sport coat.

Thankfully it sounds like my passport, and a watch my son gave me are still in the backpack. I haven't been able to get in touch with the officer in charge of the case. They are keeping my stuff for evidence. I should be able to get it back soon, but I will be out of town for at least 3 weeks.


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Re: Sidekick Sport build 2
« Reply #71 on: October 28, 2018, 07:01:56 AM »
Sorry, man, that sucks.  >:( Was this in broad daylight?

Re: Sidekick Sport build 2
« Reply #70 on: October 27, 2018, 09:06:50 PM »
I finished the extended trailing arms and pressed the bushings in, this past Monday. This was right before going to the airport. On the way to airport, I pulled over to grab food. I walked in and back out, to find my rear driver side door window bashed in and suitcase and backpack stolen. They also got my MV-90 air compressor and a few other things. It was an expensive theft, personally and monetarily.

I called the police and the insurance company, before heading home to repack. I left a day late to Phoenix, but the client understood.

I spent all day today (Saturday), getting a new door glass, new windshield, new front regulators, and new window tint installed. USAA is paying for the door glass and most likely the windshield. I'm hoping they pay for the re-tint also.

The first pic is my busted window on the ground next to my rig. The second is after the re-tint and some McGuire tire shine. I should use the McGuires more often. It works great on the rubber roof edge trim.

Re: Sidekick Sport build 2
« Reply #69 on: October 20, 2018, 08:13:11 PM »
More pics from the second partial day of working on the Sidekick. I started on the trailing arms this afternoon. I had a few mishaps, so it is already taking longer than planned. I turned the first piece a few thousandths too small and had to start over. The next piece was destroyed, just before completion, when the cutoff tool insert broke. The broken insert jammed in the part, causing it to twist in the chuck. I didn't get pics of the scrapped parts. I was too busy wondering if I had enough scraps to make more.

I started with a used set of trailing arms and new bushings. Scrap steel was used to turn parts that would allow me to press out the old bushings.

I used the horizontal bandsaw to cut the end of the arm off. More scrap steel was used to turn down an insert to space the parts an inch, leaving a gap for welding. The pieces are a snug fit into the trailing arm parts. I replaced the sleeve on my mig, but it isn't working properly. I will go to a friend's to use his tig to weld them up.
« Last Edit: October 21, 2018, 02:43:17 AM by Ridjobradi »

Re: Sidekick Sport build 2
« Reply #68 on: October 20, 2018, 07:37:28 PM »
OK, a little more progress was made yesterday. This time I have pics to post.

My horn sounded anemic, so I ordered a dual Hella hi/lo setup. The swap was easy, just unbolt the old and bolt on the new.

The AC fan is disconnected in one of the pics. It's being replaced with a new fan.
« Last Edit: October 20, 2018, 08:54:52 PM by Ridjobradi »

Re: Sidekick Sport build 2
« Reply #67 on: October 09, 2018, 09:07:57 PM »
I decided that it would be best to have all new parts on hand for the air locker install.  The bearings and seals are all new, but taking it apart and putting it back together again is questionable.  I am replacing the crush sleeve with a solid pinons spacer also.  The hard part is wire brushing the entire outside of the axle and repainting it.  I want to rebuild the axle, install the air locker, add one inch driveshaft spacer and the extended trailing arms in one go.

I had an hour of free time today to fix the electric locks in the rear door.  I had saved the locks from the old rig, because the new rig had issues with the rear doors.  The rear driver didn't work at all and the rear passenger lock had a generic fix that was tie wired in.  It took less than an hour to complete both door lock assembly replacements.  I had to pull both door panels, remove the 3 bolts at the door latch, one bolt behind door panel, and wire connector.  The hardest part is fishing the assembly out of the door and attaching the rod to the outside door handle.

I still have new electric window regulators, but that seems like an awful job to complete.  The next non hardcore replacement is getting the cruise working.  I have threaded the cruise enabled wiring harness behind the dash, but haven't done all the disconnecting.  I have a new multi switch / clock wheel assembly to install also.

Re: Sidekick Sport build 2
« Reply #66 on: October 02, 2018, 02:33:52 PM »
I have been accumulating parts and working on some mods for the Sport.  The bad thing is that I haven't had any time at home to finish them. 

I have front and rear air lockers and an on board air compressor to install.  I want to get away from the air tubing.  The plan is to use a hard brake line to route air between the front and rear.  This will reduce the risk of the ARB hose getting damaged.  I will use braided brake lines between the hard line and the locker and from the air manifold to the hard line.

I have included a pic of my new switch setup.  The winch switches will get moved to the dash.  I have a dual USB output that will go in this setup instead. 

I have started building the extended trailing arms.  They are stock trailing arms with new bushings.  The arms will be extended by an inch.  The upper mount is already complete.  The hold up is if I should go do a Fox coil-over conversion.  If anyone has thoughts or concerns on using these parts, please let me know.  I will get more pics when I return home.  I want to include pics of the jig I built to
1" Shank Creeper Joint 18MM Hole Right Hand Thread (110771-K)-TSP-CJ-18MMRH-1
1" Creeper Joint Threaded Weld-In Link Bung RH (110123-1-KIT)

I was hoping to the get the rear locker and extensions in before the Fall Classic, but I am booked up until after the event.

Re: Sidekick Sport build 2
« Reply #65 on: August 05, 2018, 08:58:19 PM »
Where are others mounting aftermarket switches? I am particularly interested in mounting the ARB / Carling type switches for compressors and lockers.  My most likely position is replacing the ashtray. I also saw that the recess to right side of the automatic shifter looks like it will work well. If I didn't plan on upgrading to cruise control and a rear wiper, I would have two positions available to the right of the steering column. .

I don't want to keep adding to the existing wiring for the factory keyless entry. I am planning to add relays that will be triggered by the key on and parking lights. This way I don't overload the key on switch and the parking light wires. 
« Last Edit: August 06, 2018, 06:57:14 AM by Ridjobradi »

Re: Sidekick Sport build 2
« Reply #64 on: May 27, 2018, 07:56:03 PM »
I spent a few more hours on the Sport today. I installed the throttle pedal that has the cruise control hookup. I also installed the cruise control cable, through the firewall and to the pedal.

I checked the cruise enabled wiring harness and I can get to most of the connectors. I started tagging the ones I could identify locations for. There is an airbag connector that I don't know how to take apart, yet.

I checked the turn signal wiring from the steering wheel connectors forward and it's good. I also found out that I haven't had daytime running lights since I purchased this rig. The wire was pulled out of the DRL controller and taped up.  I just looked at a few drawings online, about the DRL wiring. I am not sure the pin that was pulled was the same as what I saw in my rig. I will look tomorrow. That helps me narrow the wiring down to relays and forward.