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1.3 rebuild mini hemi

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1.3 rebuild mini hemi
« on: November 14, 2011, 08:39:49 PM »
I've got an 88 sami that has 261,000 miles and in need of a rebuild. I found a 1.3 for $100 which is a deal because there aren't any junk yards around here that have one. I'm in the middle of putting 30 over flat tops a high speed isky cam with heavy duty valve springs and a webber carb on the 1.3. Found out a couple of days ago my 1.3 head is junk due to a cam journal being galled up so I picked up a 1.6 8v head and had it shaved to clean it up. I'll get the head back tomorrow and hopefully finish putting it together by the weekend. I've got to use my oil pickup tube and pan as the one that came with the other motor is junk. I'm also going to have the flywheel lightened to help get things spinning quicker and eventually put on a tri-y header and 2 in exhaust out the back without a catalytic converter because as of now TN doesn't have inspections. If anyone sees any surprises in store for me let me know. I've always wanted more power as mostly I use mine for on road driving but couldn't find a 1.6 for a swap.

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Offline rbparker

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Re: 1.3 rebuild mini hemi
« Reply #1 on: November 15, 2011, 07:28:42 AM »
If you're crazy you could always knife edge the crank.
The 1.3 rods are weak.

Re: 1.3 rebuild mini hemi
« Reply #2 on: November 16, 2011, 05:02:11 PM »
I've got a problem I'm hoping some one can help me with. I put the 1.6 head back on my 1.3. The #1 cylinder was at tdc the best I could tell. I didn't have the distributor on or flywheel all I know is it was at the top and my timing mark was lined up. According to the manual with the timing marks lined up I needed to adjust the 1 and 3 exhaust valves and 1 and 2 intake valves then rotate 180 and adjust the rest. My problem is I had to rotate the cam 180 from being lined up get the lobes at their lowest point to adjust 1 and 3 and 1 and 2 then rotate 180 again to adjust the rest. I know the crank could be 180 out so could I just turn it 180 and line everything back up.

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Online fordem

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Re: 1.3 rebuild mini hemi
« Reply #3 on: November 16, 2011, 05:25:24 PM »
Or you could just leave it and install the distributor.

Many people don't realise that all TDC means is that a particular piston is at the top of it's stroke - it can be at TDC on the compression stroke or at TDC on the exhaust stroke - either way it's at TDC, and the crank, rod & piston are in exactly the same place - at the top of the stroke.

What makes the difference is where the cam is - for every two turns of the crank, the cam turns one - and it is the cam (and the valves) that determine whether it's the compression stroke (both valves closed) or not (one or more valves open).

So make sure the timing marks line up, install the belt and turn the crank so that the cam is where you need it

By the way - if you turn the crank 180 then nothing will line up and the piston (whichever one it was) will no longer be at TDC, it will be at BDC instead.
« Last Edit: November 16, 2011, 05:31:06 PM by fordem »
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Re: 1.3 rebuild mini hemi
« Reply #4 on: November 16, 2011, 05:45:20 PM »
Thanks fordem, been a long day and just put the crank and cam pulley on and started to call it a night when I thought might as well get everything lined up and adjust the valves. When I looked the valve lobes weren't at their lowest point so adjusting wasn't going to work. I'll line evrything up in the morning put the belt on and turn everything to adjust the valves. Thanks again.


Re: 1.3 rebuild mini hemi
« Reply #5 on: December 03, 2011, 05:58:10 PM »
I've got a major problem. Got the motor in and fired it up outside to adjust the weber with a wind at my back. What I didn't notice was the huge plume of smoke coming out the back of the Zuk untill I started around to take it for a test drive. It didn't look like oil burning more like water vapor. I thought it might have been the break in oil burning out of the cylinders. I took it about 50 yds out the drive way because at one point it looked liked it almost quit. When I got back I had a cracked exhaust "stock" manifold with oil coming through the crack. I've got a 1.6 head on a 1.3 running electric fuel pump with inline pressure regulator but with it set on 1 pound of pressure nothing was coming through. I had to set it to three pounds before it got enough through for it to run. I'm wondering if I've got to much fuel and it washed my cylinders down. I'm going to take a small fuel can and hook it to the carb to gravity feed it tomorrow and see if it still smokes without the fuel pump hooked up. Maybe a bad pressure regulator? Any help or ideas woul be appreciated.

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Offline boatsrcool

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Re: 1.3 rebuild mini hemi
« Reply #6 on: January 04, 2012, 12:02:40 PM »
So what was the outcome to this build?