96 tracker. Haynes shows number one different than the Fsm? Is it the one parallel to the top of the 7 pin connector or the one inline with the lower dizzy cap bolt??

When you are looking at the top of the distributor cap, it is the one that is the highest on the cap.  If you have the choice between the haynes manual and the FSM, go by the FSM info.

Well thats the trouble, the FSM shows the lower left as #1 looking from the drivers side:


It does say VIN 6 on the FSM but I dont see an alternative for other VINs.

Your saying plug 3 in the above photo as the highest correct?  That is where Haynes shows on SOC models from what i can decifer.  Their picture really doesn't accurately show the plug location in reference to the 2 dizzy cap bolts.  Bolts are exactly inline with plugs 1 and 4 on the above picture (at least in my case).

Can anyone confirm/deny number 1 at the cap matches the above?

You're making this thing waaay too difficult - set the #1 cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke (either turn it over with the plugs out or take the cam cover off and make sure the valves are closed) and then see where the rotor is pointing.

The dist. was out of junkyard and can be installed any direction. Less I am not comprehending right I have to clock it myself.

That FSM pics is showing a 1.6 8V engine, because it is showing the distributor rotating clockwise (16Vs spin counter clockwise).
It really doesn't matter which tower you make #1.  As long as the distributor to cam timing is right and you route the wires correctly.

The #1 tower is usually the one that is closest to the adjustment flange on the distributor housing.

Yeah that's odd, for sure an 8v diagram as Skyhi said bc of the clockwise rotation. What year FSM, & is it Suz or GM?
Diagram about 1/2 way down this page is right, provided you have the dizzy clocked properly:

http://www.kick-fix.com/IGN_timing/16v-procedure.html

& yes you can time it any of 4 ways, but IMO why?... it'll just cause confusion later on to you or the next owner. Time it right once & leave it there.

Hth,
Fuzz

Thanks for the info all.  I have def. learned a lot I never knew about distributors and timing.

This project is kicking my butt. I have followed all MS directions for input from Hall to MS and output from MS to the internal coil. Timing light shows good, all 4 plugs are sparking, and all settings seem good in the software. 

I did get it to fire today but ran pretty rough. I noticed my MAP reading was too high (100kpa |removethispart|@ 1200rpm) early-on.  This led me to confirm no intake leaks and proper crank to cam timing.  Finally when my greatly understanding assistant came home I was able to have her do the cranking. This led me to notice I am getting exhaust pressure out of the throttle body!  I pulled the valve cover to verify nothing out of place. Eye checked all valves open/close and finger checked clearances.   

So thats where I am now.  Did I overlook a likely possiblity?

Exhaust pressure out of the intake - hmmm - and you say you've checked the cam timing, and eyeballed the valves to see if they're opening/closing ...

I can only think you have a valve problem - maybe sticking or leaking.

Get a leak down tester - or - bronze an air line fitting to an old spark plug shell and screw it to the cylinders one at a time and pressurize them (keep it under 100 psi) - if it's leaking back into the intake you'll find it.

Exhaust pressure out of the intake - hmmm - and you say you've checked the cam timing, and eyeballed the valves to see if they're opening/closing ...

I can only think you have a valve problem - maybe sticking or leaking.

Get a leak down tester - or - bronze an air line fitting to an old spark plug shell and screw it to the cylinders one at a time and pressurize them (keep it under 100 psi) - if it's leaking back into the intake you'll find it.

Sounds like a no brainer.  I will pickup one today and give it a check. My machine shop did a 3 angle and installed all my new valves so I like to 'think' its not valve seating.  Guess I will know later today.  Thanks.

Just an update and a 'many thanks'.

After the 3rd time tearing down to the timing belt, I realized my mech. timing was off!  Seems that there was some build up of dried crusty dirt/old timing belt guk hardened in between the crank sprocket as well as the cam sprocket.  (hind sight) this lead to my timing belt walking teeth and caused me many frustrating hours of good beer drinking time!

BTW 3rd time is the charm meaning when you finally re-time to piston #4 and not #1 lol.  So all in all, I had a pretty decent coil on plug setup to start with and forgot the old K.I.S.S. saying and starting with the simple stuff.

On a positive note, I will have a lot on my full MSnS write-up pertaining to COP and factory dizzy options including MSQ files for both.  I also have conversion parts for going COP either by adding IGN drivers or EDIS-4 (actually have 2 EDIS). PM me.

Thanks again for the support.