Hello,  I have just fitted a 4 branch JAN SPeed exhaust Manifold to my Uk vitara/kick/tracker,  It was well worth the money as it has improved low to mid power by 10%

I am not sure you guys can get jan speed but Calmini to a simular one,  

I have attached some pics of it ,

is that on the 8V engine ? what did it cost?

needs more dirt







Looks good...

You guys in the UK don't have to run a catalytic converter?

You guys in the UK don't have to run a catalytic converter?

Depends on the age of the vehicle. Marks is an early 8V with carb, on those models they don't need a cat. Mine is a late 8v (2000) and has a cat, I think the law changed around 1995/1996. I don't see a bung for an O2 sensor, though I thought nthere was one when I looked at the pic on ebay.
Janspeed were one of the top tuners in the UK when I was a teenager, sometime last week, lol. They were one of the first companies producing aftermarket turbo kits and built turbo'd 410s and 413s

It does look like they are not making many more,

from a shop they cost 141 pounds. plus the vat , but Calmini do a simular one,  Pretty sure there is a option for that sensor,  there is a threaded bit just below the manifold

i'm confused....... please help.

almost all of the headers/extractors (exhaust manifolds) i see, have that configuration, and also i see a lot of them in the sammys.

i have extractors on my carby 8v also, but the pipe work is different.

if you look at yours, or the majority, cylinders 2 and 3 enter the exhaust together, and cylinders 1 and 4, to gether.

but in mine, its different, ie: 1 and 3, and 2 and 4 together, then into one. hence the 4-2-1 system.

will this be different in anyway, as i'm assuming it has something to do with the cylinder firing order.

i dont have a pic at the moment, but its 2 minutes to go down and take a pic of it.

thanks
steve

this is my understanding.

while cyc 1 fires 4 can exhaust as they are on the same stroke.  the same as 2 fires 3 can exhaust.
Baically allowing only one cyc exhausting down  the pipe at one time. thats on the setup above. by the time it goes back to one pipe its not really going to effect performance.

open to correction. as been a while since i loooked at performnace enhantments

Hopfully clear as British mud

i'm confused....... please help.

almost all of the headers/extractors (exhaust manifolds) i see, have that configuration, and also i see a lot of them in the sammys.

i have extractors on my carby 8v also, but the pipe work is different.

if you look at yours, or the majority, cylinders 2 and 3 enter the exhaust together, and cylinders 1 and 4, to gether.

but in mine, its different, ie: 1 and 3, and 2 and 4 together, then into one. hence the 4-2-1 system.

will this be different in anyway, as i'm assuming it has something to do with the cylinder firing order.

i dont have a pic at the moment, but its 2 minutes to go down and take a pic of it.

thanks

steve

Ok, you got me thinking about this and now I have a headache :-/

I'm no exhaust or auto expert by any stretch of the imagination, but here are some thoughts.

Given the firing order for these engines as 1-3-4-2 and the Intake, Compression, Power (AKA Combustion), and Exhaust stages of a four stroke engine, I came up with the following table (cylinder versus stage):

1      2       3        4
P      E       C        I
E      I        P        C
I       C       E        P
C      P       I         E

Now, my understanding is that it is most important that each  exhaust tube's length be equal to the others so that only one exhaust pulse is hitting that single collector pipe at one time (so the total length of each pipe from the head to the single collector pipe should be the same).  That may be the most important factor in reducing back pressure.

I don't know if our engines, all engines, or only hi-performance engines (heads/cams) do it, but scavenging is another head/exhaust design.  I'm not completely sure how it works, but the idea is that you leave the exhaust valve open for a brief time while the intake valve is opening on the cylinder's Intake stroke.  The vacuum from the exhuast is supposed to help pull the fuel charge into the cylinder.  Now, to my way of thinking, it would be beneficial if the matching tubes had one cylinder on the Power stroke while the other was on the Intake stroke.  I haven't read or heard anything confirming that and it could be totally wrong, but it just seems to me that would create the maximum vacuum.  But, if that is the case, then it seems like the 1&4, 2&3 header combo would be best.

Now you see why I have a headache

so in other words, my extractors are not very good....

oh well, another thing on the useless list....

*sigh*

what about putting a 1.3 carby head on my 1.6 block, and upping the compression.

i was told theres no work involved but for timing of cam and ignition.

not sure if you guys work with carbys much.

so in other words, my extractors are not very good....

oh well, another thing on the useless list....

*sigh*

what about putting a 1.3 carby head on my 1.6 block, and upping the compression.

i was told theres no work involved but for timing of cam and ignition.

not sure if you guys work with carbys much.

I wouldn't say they're "not very good" and certainly not "useless".  I think the bulk of the backpressure is relieved by the size and length of the primaries.  As long as those tube lengths have been designed to be the same, you should be getting the benefit of each exhaust stroke hitting one after another.  Like I said, I'm not sure if scavenging is even attempted via our cam timing and if it is, the effect is probably marginal versus the effect of having the header versus the stock manifold.  Kind of like the effect of porting.  Sure, it gives you something, but relatively little compared to a well designed head versus a poorly designed one.  And, like I said, I'm not sure the P-I relationship I talked about above is even correct :-/

FWIW, personally I would never replace my fuel injection with a carb.  I think FI has too many advantages.

I can't help with the head; I have no idea what, if any, valve piston clearance problems there might be.  Again, personally, I wouldn't want to up my compression either.  $1.70 / gallon is enough for me, I don't want to be putting the $2.00 / gallon premium in there.

BTW, those pipes look good.  I love free flowing exhaust systems.  If I ever get my engine rebuilt or replaced, I'm definitely going to put a nice header and free-flowing CAT on.  Until then, I'm just gonna try to keep this thing running

Oh, I forgot to ask, is that some kind of heat-riser or something that's welded to that #2 tube?

That was a good read , i think your right on the length has to be the same . lot of design goes into the shape to i think, i am same and no expert on these matters,
But it seems to do what they say it will so thats good for me.

As for the bit welded on, yeah it is a hot air intake for the trusty 8v carb as come winter it suffers with carb freeze.

Also further down is that o2 sensor placement. it is blanked off but the fittment is there.