Okay. I just put the multimeter on the TPS.

Digital Multimeter set on 20k ohm range. When turned on there is a 1 displayed to the far left.

The pin 1 to 3 jump was 1.00 |removethispart|@ closed throttle and 4.01 |removethispart|@ wide open. Meets specs of .3-2k |removethispart|@ closed & 2-6.5k |removethispart|@ full W/ a difference of more than 2k between them. I would say this checks out good.

The Pin 1 to 2 jump is where I think the problem is. I DID NOT put any feeler gauges in. With a gap of .020 I should have had 0-500 ohms & with a gap of .031 it should have gone to infinity. I didn't even get a reading. The multimeter display was just like it is right now sitting on my desk. I realize that without the feelers I wouldn't get the "right" reading but I should have at least gotten a reading.

Is it a safe bet to say TPS is bad? I personally would have to say yes BUT I don't have alot of experience testing Suzuki sensors much less testing sensors at all. I usually throw the OBD2 on and let it work it's magic LOL. 

You need to put the feeler gauges in and check it the right way.  Otherwise, who knows what kind of readings you'll get.
If the readings are off when using feeler gauges, then adjust the TPS (using the feeler gauges), then recheck it.

Using feeler gauges .020 & .032 I didn't even get a reading. The multimeter display was just like it is right now sitting on my desk. I did check pin 1 & 2 on the plug side and got a reading from the multimeter.

Is it a safe bet to say TPS is bad?

Thanks to all that have offered advice and help with this issue.

So did you adjust the TPS and recheck it?

TPS adjusted and rechecked. Now they are all within spec's. Now cold idle is 800-1000 rpms, Won't idle when it starts to warm up.

I am still thinking TPS issue or EGR issue. Any suggestions??

Is there an idle control solenoid on the throttle body?
might look at that and see if it's moving or stuck, also
make sure there are no air leaks between the filter and
the throttle body, can make for funny running 

TPS adjusted and rechecked. Now they are all within spec's. Now cold idle is 800-1000 rpms, Won't idle when it starts to warm up.

I am still thinking TPS issue or EGR issue. Any suggestions??

If the TPS is within spec, why would you think it is bad?

Is the CEL still on?  If so, what codes is it showing?

Did you check the other sensors, using the info on the kick-fix website?  Especially the ones that you had codes against.

Have you checked the IAC valve?  It is a simple resistance check, to check it.

Problem seems to be solved. I just changed the timing belt. On a "wild hair" moment and thinking that well I am having problems so while its sitting here I should change the timing belt since I don't know when or even if it has been changed. After all the timing belt kit was only $35. Then I could also check the crank/cam timing.

New timing belt in place motor is running much much better. Only "issue" now is that the hot idle is a little lower than spec's. The hot idle is about 550 rpm's vs. 750. Thinking I might have to reset the TPS and double check my previous work. CEL is flashing 12 constantly now.

I would like to thank you folks for all your help. Your ideas and insight helped me work through this problem.

On a side note I also know where there is a sidekick sitting in a junkyard I don't have to abuse anymore so if anyone needs a part let me know and I can check it out for you. Just shoot me an email, I am pretty sure it's in my profile.

If everything checks out, you may have to adjust the air bleed screw to bump up the idle.  The screw is located on the top of the intake, towards the back.  It is supposed to be covered by a black rubber plug, but sometimes it is missing.  Turn it about half a turn clockwise (I think that is the right way), wait 15-30 seconds and see if the idle comes up and stabilizes.  Keep adjusting it until you can get the hot idle to stabilize at 800RPM with all the accessories off (lights, heater blower, radio, ac, etc.).

I had the same problem with my 93 and I found a guy on ebay that rebuilt my computor for $50. Problem fixed.

Here we are again. Back to the same old problems. Only computer code is 12.

It was fine after I did the timing belt for about 1 1/2 hours. On the way home from the ride it started "acting a little funny" (bogged a little in the hills but then it is a 4-banger then the closer I got to home it was fully back into the problem). There were a couple occasions where it seemed to come out of it and run perfect.

When you step on the throttle is sounds fuel starved. Just to start covering different bases from before I pulled to O2 sensor and tried running it like this (to see if the catalytic is plugged) to see if it made a difference. It didn't, so I never-seized the O2 threads and reinstalled it.

Tomorrow I am thinking I need to check the fuel pressure at the rail. I might also break the can of starting fluid out and start spraying around the intake.

I have had the same problem with my fuel injected samurai. When initially start, it run fine but start to have fuel starve after 10min of so. I switch of the engine and restart, it run fine for a while before it bog down again. Finally trace it to rust in the fuel tank. The rust will fall off once the engine not run. If start it then every thing is normal but when it accumulate enough rust, it will starve the engine.
Hope this help.

I have been thinking about a tank issue also. I have been dreading that idea. Things are kind of "tender" back in that area when it comes to lines since they are factory Suzuki & I just happen to have nearly a full tank of gas. The only reason I haven't dropped the tank already is that fuel pressure |removethispart|@ the filter was fine BUT that doesn't rule out an intermitent problem with either the fuel pump itself, a short in the electrical going to the fuel pump or something blocking the fuel pump intake. I have also considered the possibility of someone "spiking" my fuel with something. Is there anyway the "average Joe" can test their fuel at home for crap like sugar, etc?

Here we are again. Back to the same old problems. Only computer code is 12.

It was fine after I did the timing belt for about 1 1/2 hours. On the way home from the ride it started "acting a little funny" (bogged a little in the hills but then it is a 4-banger then the closer I got to home it was fully back into the problem). There were a couple occasions where it seemed to come out of it and run perfect.

When you step on the throttle is sounds fuel starved. Just to start covering different bases from before I pulled to O2 sensor and tried running it like this (to see if the catalytic is plugged) to see if it made a difference. It didn't, so I never-seized the O2 threads and reinstalled it.

Tomorrow I am thinking I need to check the fuel pressure at the rail. I might also break the can of starting fluid out and start spraying around the intake.

ill bet money you have a worn keyway on your crank timing gear....

Have you ever cleaned the EGR system as Skyhiranger suggested in post #12, including the SS tube and intake opening as well as the exhaust manifold passageway?