Went to the good ole junkyard and pulled the ECU. Installed in "The Thing" (we can't think of a good name for it LOL). It runs now (at least it idles and no black smoke).
Now for the $64 Million dollar question--- The brain I pulled |removethispart||removethispart|@ the J/Y is for a standard. I am not sure how proprietary OBD1 Suzuki's are. My old Chevy is OBD1 and I have changed the tranny in that from auto to standard without computer issues. If I run this standard ECU in an auto what issues/damage could I cause or run into if any?
KickFix showed the most common capacitor failure as 103. Is that the one that will cause all these problems. Any info on where I can get that capacitor or could I hit about any Radio Shack?
Yours is an auto, I take it? If so, it won't shift right, with a 5 speed ECM. It is driveable, but it will shift/drive really crappy.
There are 4 caps to replace in the ECM. Replace them all.
Radio Shack won't have them all (and if they do, they will be expensive). I've gotten mine from local electronic supply houses. The caps are around $1 each. You can use caps that are rated for higher voltage (for example, if the old cap was a 25V, you can use a 50V in its place), if you can't find any of the exact voltage (don't use one of a lower rated voltage). But you must use ones that have the exact microfarad rating (if the old one was a 10uf, you must replace it with a 10uf). You also want to try to get ones that have a 105*C heat rating, but you can use the lower heat rated ones (85*C), if you have to. You also want to make sure you put the caps in correctly....they are like a battery and have a "positive" and "negative". Just look at the old cap and you will see a bunch of - minus symbols above one leg on the side of the cap. The new cap will also have the minus symbols above 1 leg (and also the negative leg is shorter than the positive one, on new caps...but always look for the minus symbol, just to make sure). Only use rosin core solder...do not use acid core.
Once you get all the caps replaced, you also need to do continuity tests for some of the various copper traces located around the capacitors. Usually, the caps will leak and damage a trace (or several), creating an "open". So even though you replace the caps, that does not fix the problem. Look at all the traces around the caps with a magnifying glass. If you see any that are dark colored, or places where you can see that the caps leaked and dried out the coating on the board, you need to clean the corrosion/electrolyte off the board with nail polish remover. I just use a Qtip and gently rub the area until I get the crap off (usually takes several Qtips, to get all the crap/corrosion off the board/trace). I then set my digital multimeter on continuity and find "point A" and "point B" of the trace (usually 1 point is the leg of a capacitor, IC chip (the things with multiple legs), etc.) and see if there is continuity between the 2 points. The only thing that can be between "point A" and "point B" is the copper trace...if the trace passes through any electrical components, you likely won't have continuity, even if the trace is good. There can be electrical components that "T" into the trace, that won't affect the continuity. It also helps to have sharp pointy probes, because you will have to poke through the protective coating to get down to the copper/solder, in order to get an accurate test for continuity (unless you are testing from a leg of an electrical component...then you just need to touch the leg...since there is no coating on the legs, just on the traces and some of the small surface mount components. If you find an open in a trace, you can try to solder the trace back together, but that usually doesn't work well...unless you are really good at soldering. What I do, is simply solder an insulated jumper wire between "point A" and "point B" of the trace (I use small solid wire (about 22 gauge) that has a protective covering on it, that bypasses the bad part of the trace and completes the circuit path. Once you either have the corrosion cleaned up and the trace resoldered, or the jumper wire in place, you need to coat the bare traces/solder joints of the board, to prevent them from corroding. I use clear nail polish to coat these areas.
It really isn't as hard as I make it sound.
