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Camber

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Offline magiccat

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Camber
« on: May 19, 2006, 11:48:52 AM »
I have a 94 sidelick
2.5 coil spacer lift
stock struts
I "slotted" the upper stut hole. This did not allow enough movement
I then purcahced camber bolts. This has still not fixed it yet
What next?
My camber also seems to change quite frequently.
How is this possible?
« Last Edit: May 19, 2006, 11:58:36 AM by magiccat »

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Offline chet

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Re: Camber
« Reply #1 on: May 19, 2006, 02:03:34 PM »
camber bolts alone should fix the problem. It did on mine with 3" coil spacers. You need to take a closer look as something is not right. Also the camber should not change over time unless you wheel hard (it can get knocked around then)
1991 4 door kick, 2" coil spacers, 30" Coopers, winch, locker, rust, dents, etc.

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Offline bzzr2

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Re: Camber
« Reply #2 on: May 19, 2006, 02:06:00 PM »
i may be wrong here but have you flipped the strut mount yet?  does that have any effect on how much you can get the camber adjusted on these model years? 
03-ZR2, 2dr, 31x10.5 SSR's & stuff...--sold :-(
03 xl7, jeff's 2inch spacer lift, 225/75/16's; sold
09 taco reg cab short box 4x4

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Offline derekj

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Re: Camber
« Reply #3 on: May 19, 2006, 02:12:55 PM »
you an buy camber bolts with different amounts of adjustment. you may just need the next one up. you will also have to adjust the toe also.

derek

91 Sidekick jx
2" BDS supension lift
2" BDS body lift
1" Coil spacers
32" TSL's and some other stuff I did And now with a Lockrite!  www.cardomain.com/memberpage/783382

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Offline Shadow

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Re: Camber
« Reply #4 on: May 19, 2006, 02:40:01 PM »
Does the widening mod help with camber? I can't get it through my head if it does or not as I have not tried it yet. 

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Offline magiccat

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Re: Camber
« Reply #5 on: May 19, 2006, 04:16:54 PM »
I have a 2in. strut spacer
The camber bolts are 12 mm
The old strut bolt was 17 mm

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Offline crikeymike

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Re: Camber
« Reply #6 on: May 19, 2006, 04:54:24 PM »
It's hard to tell in the picture, but are the struts slotted the correct way?  They should be grooved out toward the strut itself (away from the knuckle) so that the knuckle is resting as close on the strut as possible.  I slotted mine with a 2" lift and didn't need camber bolts at all.  Then i had it aligned and everything was good.
1993 4-door Sidekick
3" hybrid Calmini/OME lift, 2" B/L, Rear air locker
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Offline magiccat

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Re: Camber
« Reply #7 on: May 19, 2006, 05:58:26 PM »
yes I grooved them that way
I had enough movement that the knuckle would hit the inside of the strut.
I also found it very hard to move the knuckle.
How did you go about making the adjustment?
Thanks

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Offline magiccat

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Re: Camber
« Reply #8 on: May 21, 2006, 08:58:58 PM »
Still need help on the camber :-\

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Offline sidekick 4x4

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coil spacer
« Reply #9 on: May 21, 2006, 09:14:17 PM »
can any one tell me where to get coil spacers?
1990 sidekick,snorkel, 2.5" coil spacers, procomp shocks and strut extenders, 3" calmini body lift, 30" A/T,CHEERY BOMB MUFFLER

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Offline SiKiD_01

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Re: Camber
« Reply #10 on: May 21, 2006, 09:54:08 PM »
a 3" lift on stock arms and struts will definatly throw the camber out (positive), as you all know and seen already.


flipping the strut mount will have no change in the camber settings, unless you slot the strut holes and move the top of the strut in towards the centre of the car.

i have found that sometimes slotting the upper strut-to-knuckle hole does not allow for enough camber change, as the knuckle hits the strut body. if you do slot the upper hole, do it so it moves the top of the knuckle inwards.

or you can slot the lower hole and pull the bottom of the knuckle outwards. this also will help the camber a bit better. by doing the lower hole, there seems to be more room out than in.

if it still does not work, you can do both.

another way if you cant get a hole of some descent camber bolts, is to run smaller bolts through the holes as well, but you will need larger washers on either side.

the hagen widening mod moves the lower arms outwards, hence widening. this will push the lower ball joint on the lower a arm OUT, and will push the bottom of the tyres out. which is what you want. slotting the lower strut holes is similar to this, only not as big or a change.

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Offline magiccat

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Re: Camber
« Reply #11 on: May 22, 2006, 12:25:08 AM »
I slotted the upper strut hole/ loosened the bottom one, and I found it really hard to move the knuckle without the tire on for leverage. I think I could do some more grinding now that I think about it. Did you take both bolts of the strut and pull it away from the knuckle, to slot the hole? After you slotted the hole, how did you move the knuckle? Did you put the tire back on and lower the car and then make the adjustment? Because I don't think I did mine right. Can I get a step by step on how to do this? How did you slot the hole? All I had was a big crusty drill bit;and that didn't work out to well. I know this id probally lame.
Thanks for the help ;D

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Offline hobgoblin

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Re: Camber
« Reply #12 on: May 22, 2006, 05:26:01 AM »
a 3" lift on stock arms and struts will definatly throw the camber out (positive), as you all know and seen already.


flipping the strut mount will have no change in the camber settings, unless you slot the strut holes and move the top of the strut in towards the centre of the car.

i have found that sometimes slotting the upper strut-to-knuckle hole does not allow for enough camber change, as the knuckle hits the strut body. if you do slot the upper hole, do it so it moves the top of the knuckle inwards.

or you can slot the lower hole and pull the bottom of the knuckle outwards. this also will help the camber a bit better. by doing the lower hole, there seems to be more room out than in.

if it still does not work, you can do both.

another way if you cant get a hole of some descent camber bolts, is to run smaller bolts through the holes as well, but you will need larger washers on either side.

the hagen widening mod moves the lower arms outwards, hence widening. this will push the lower ball joint on the lower a arm OUT, and will push the bottom of the tyres out. which is what you want. slotting the lower strut holes is similar to this, only not as big or a change.


Thats how I fixed my camber...Hagen Widening....



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Offline magiccat

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Re: Camber
« Reply #13 on: May 22, 2006, 10:05:28 AM »
Is the hagen widening mod a pain?
do you have to do the custom cv shafts/probally a good idea
can you still run it down the highway?
I'm thinking about doing the hagen widening mod
But for now I would like to fix the camber

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Offline hobgoblin

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Re: Camber
« Reply #14 on: May 22, 2006, 05:49:33 PM »
Is the hagen widening mod a pain?
do you have to do the custom cv shafts/probally a good idea
can you still run it down the highway?
I'm thinking about doing the hagen widening mod
But for now I would like to fix the camber

The hardest thing is making the pass. side CV axle. I drive mine all the time 70-80 mph with 33's on the freeway.No problems.