Hello! I am new to ZUKIWORD and don't own a SUZUKI (YET!!). I Actually own an 87 toyota van 2x Auto, and I am looking to buy a sidekick/tracker to do a LITTLE off-roading. So I am asking some questions to learn more about them, before I decide on which model to go for.
Here is the first question (there will be more ):
I see a lot of people advertizing their cars saying the high miles on them is because they are TOW MILES behind an RV, many of these have automatic transmissions, I am not a mechanic and know very little about trannys, but I was always told by tow truckers that you are not supposed tow an auto while its driven axle is on the road/ground, that is why they lift THAT axle off the ground then tow the car. I have a friend who knows a little about cars and said that the only way to tow an auto is by removing the drive shaft or keeping the engine running or not exceed 35MPH otherwise you will damage the tranny, CAN someone confirm or deny this ??
I have never owned a 4x4 so I don't know, could it be that 4x4 trannys are different than 2x ?

Thank you for any clarifications!

Ben

i belive if you have manual locking hubs you can tow.  Unlock the hubs and put the tcase in N and your good to go i think

yeah, unlock the hubs, put the t-case in N, and the tranny in P, unless you're going to tow it a long way, then put it on a trailer, or one of those 2 wheeled car haulers facing backwards with the front wheels on the ground.

Here is where you can find the official Suzuki information on on the subject:

Go to Ack's FAQ and do a search.  Select the category of DOCUMENTS and then do a search for towing.  This search will turn up two links: 

A transcript of the section in the 1993 Suzuki Sidekick Owner's Manual describing proper vehicle towing techniques.

A PDF file copy of a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB)  concerning the use of auto-locking hubs and towing on the Suzuki Samurai.  Even though the Sidekick (and Tracker) have independent front suspension and the Samurai does not, the front drivetrain is similar enough that this TSB applies to Sidekicks and Trackers, too.

Newbies are always welcome to visit and search through Ack's FAQ.  That's one reason why it exists!

Hope this helps!

Put it in Park? I thought you would put the tranny into Neutral. Put key in ignition and turn so steering wheel doesn't lock

WOW! fast response
thanks for the replies and for ack web site, nice
I read both articles but the second one is totaly confusing.
What I understand from the first article is that the transfer case when put in neutral disconnects the drivetrains (front and back) from the tranny, that is why you can tow the car with all 4 wheels on the ground, right?? ( I am just making assuptions here ).
My friend had explained (in lay terms) that the difference between an auto tranny and a manual is the clutch (it disconnects the tranny from the motor), in an auto, the tranny driven by the wheels trys to turn the motor (problem here).

What I don't understand from the articles is the issue with front hubs (manual or auto-locking)
What is the difference with the front and rear axle? isn't a rear axle just a like a front axle with the hubs LOCKED (manual or auto-locking) ? am I missing something here

That second article is really confusing especially the "explantion" part of it. Is it saying that the rear wheels truning will turn the front wheels make a PREVIOUSLY unlocked wheels LOCKED (in auto-locking hubs) which implies you can NOT tow (auto-locking hubs) with all 4 wheels on the ground. 

ok, when you put the transfer case in neutral (N), its basically like removing the driveshafts; the tranny and engine cant turn over, and thats why the tranny can still be in park (P). according to my 89 owners manual, im right about how to tow it, except that the owners manual also says to turn the key to ACC, and stop about every 200 miles and rev the engine for a minute to circulate oil, and DO NOT exceed 55mph. also, just for reference, the manual says that when towing a 5 speed, do everything the same, except put the tranny in 2nd gear. hope that clears everything up a little.

One important thing to know about a track/kick's transfer case:

When you put the transfer case into neutral on a Track/kick, the driveshafts will no longer spin with the engine, but the front and rear driveshafts become locked together like it's in 4wd, meaning when one turns, the other turns as well. This is why you need to be able to unlock the front hubs, otherwise you will run into problems...

One important thing to know about a track/kick's transfer case:

When you put the transfer case into neutral on a Track/kick, the driveshafts will no longer spin with the engine, but the front and rear driveshafts become locked together like it's in 4wd, meaning when one turns, the other turns as well. This is why you need to be able to unlock the front hubs, otherwise you will run into problems...

...and that is exactly why you should NEVER tow with auto locking hubs!

For example, you have the truck on a dolly towing with the front wheels on the ground and you have gone through the procedure of unlocking the hubs (or you think you have).  The first time you do anything that could cause the auto-locking hubs to lock -- backing and filling at a gas pump for example -- you immediately put the drivetrain into a situation where damage can occur!  The same would be true if flat-tow with auto-locking hubs!  Auto locking hubs and towing is a recipe for disaster.

The fundamental concept that new 4x4 owners must understand is that MOST 4x4 drivetrains are designed for occasional (part-time) use and should NEVER be used in the 4X4 mode while on flat dry surfaces.  Careful adherance to all instructions in the owner's manual AND any Technical Service Bulletins by the manufacturer is the best way to get the most out of your 4x4 vehicle.

Back to the original point:  There is a real risk of getting a "lemon" by purchasing a vehicle that was towed behind an RV for most of it's life.  You are counting on the previous owner's ability to RIGOROUSLY follow the owner's manual in following towing procedures.  That said, I would approach buying a towed vehicle with a sharp eye on the condition of the drivetrain.

After having all kinds of towing problems (Auto trans grenading after hitting a bump and having it kick in gear while towing a Tracker home on a dolly!). Now I always pull the rear D-shaft in EVERY situation...whether it is a manual or auto, 4X4 or 2X4, auto hubs or manual hubs.....I ALWAYS PULL THE 4-bolts that hold the driveshaft to the 3rd member and tie it up with a ratchet strap and/or two bungee cords. It takes about 5 minutes and is worth the added piece of mind 

HTH

Sean

X2!

One must make sacrifices to enjoy this sport (and restrict equipment breakage to the trail).  Crawling under your truck with a set of wrenches to disconnect/reconnect  the driveshaft is worth it!

the following is from the

                Suzuki Sidekick Flat/Dolly Towing Instructions
                     Towing Method "A" Four wheels on the ground/Manual transmission Towbar)
                     Towing Method "B" (Four wheels on the ground/Automatic Transmission)
                     Note: If you have auto-locking hubs, follow the instructions in Towing method D (below) to make sure that the hubs are in the "free" mode.

It seem to indicate that you CAN tow a "auto-loking hubs" on 4 wheels FLAT as long as you make sure the hubs are "free" but according to DIGGER and ACK and I have concluded from the second article "TSB"that you should/could NOT tow on ALL 4 wheels flat.

So in summary the first document need to corrected/clarified that

"IF YOU HAVE "AUTO-LOCKING HUBS" DO NOT TOW CAR ON ALL 4 WHEELS ON THE GROUND."

Yes, I think you are right ACK, I was concerned about these towed cars having damaged/worn out drivetrains/t-case/tranny.

come to think of it, if the transfer case is in Neutral, wouldn't that disconnect the tranny and terefore NO MILEAGE would be accumulated on the odometer, right???
So the claim by some sellers of high miles due to being towed behind an RV is baseless!!!

ben

come to think of it, if the transfer case is in Neutral, wouldn't that disconnect the tranny and terefore NO MILEAGE would be accumulated on the odometer, right???
So the claim by some sellers of high miles due to being towed behind an RV is baseless!!!

ben

I am not sure about this -- I'd have to go out in the cold night and crawl under one of my TracKicks     -- but if the speedometer setup is the same as a Samurai, the output shaft on the transfer case is where the speedo is connected.  Thus any movement of the truck would show up on the odometer unless you disconnected the rear driveshaft.

Ben, I think that I will add an editorial comment to the Towing transcript at the FAQ regarding Auto Hub flat-towing and the Samurai TSB on the same subject.   I wish I had access to Sidekick/Tracker TSBs...  I bet there is one covering the same topic for the TracKick!

best thing to do is remove the driveshafts for towing. I towed a quite a few vehicles. Buy a tow dolly. That would be the cheapest any easiest thing to do. Then its only the back driveshaft.