Hi. again everyone.
I'm trying to torque my rocker screws that vibrated out according to the specs. I swabbed the oil out of the holes and put the thread lock on the screws. When I try to torque, the screws head just want to strip. It seems to call for a #3. Someone at petro suggested using an impact screwdriver. My thought was allen head screws instead of the phillips but not sure you can get the proper size.

Here are the questions.

What have you guys done that works?
Will an impact screwdriver over torque?break?
Is there an equivalent screw in either torx or allen?
If I use a 120 inch up torque wrench at the 120inch, would it be too much?(I think it calls for 108 but my wrench doesn't go that low.

One other question.

Being a good time to adjust the valves, Is there a real safe way to atleast check them before I close it all up?. It seemed to be running good before and since I usually don't delve into the engine works, I don't want to do anything to mess it up.

-Adam

I think it should be a #3 Pozidrive not a Phillips.

Thanks Rhinoman. I didn't know about a Pozidrive. I'll look at Napa.

What about the torque? 120 inch too much? Can I do it with an impact screwdriver and get away with it?


 I don't want to chance them coming out again. As it turns out, the 2 rear intake sides were out and the 2 right rear exaust sides were loose. Others seem tight. I'm considering pulling them and redoing them as soon as I figure out exactly how to get them torqued right.

Adam

Follow up:

Went to Napa, Advance, Autozone, Mcgarah's and a small Sears center. No one heard of them. One guy at Advance said "I've been in this business for 50 years, and if there was such a thing, I would know". I will check around some more on Friday. I highly doubt these "tool experts" know what they are talking about.

-Adam

look for a local bolt company.  like fastenal or american bolt

Follow up:

Went to Napa, Advance, Autozone, Mcgarah's and a small Sears center. No one heard of them. One guy at Advance said "I've been in this business for 50 years, and if there was such a thing, I would know". I will check around some more on Friday. I highly doubt these "tool experts" know what they are talking about.

-Adam

did a google search... try this...http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=all&Group_ID=279&store=snapon-store

I think the impact driver with a regular # 3 phillips will stop the stripping and at least get it all back and running. The screw heads won't be perfect and I'm o.k. with that for now as long as they stay put. I just don't know if it will damage the screws or holes or anything else hitting it with an impact. Petroworks said to do it with an impact and threadlock. Don't go with the factory spec because it's not tight enough. Maybe someone knows for sure. Maybe I only hit it once kind of light and I'll be o.k.

I will still check on different head screws and/or the pozidrive#3.

Still wondering if I should check the valve adjustment. Don't want to mess that up if it's already right.

-Adam

Still wondering if I should check the valve adjustment. Don't want to mess that up if it's already right.

You won't find out if it's right until you check it.

What about , if it's not broke don't fix it?

I'll probably see what it takes to check it. Just don't want to open a bad can of worms.

-Adam

Here's the valve lash specs from the FSM:

When cold - Coolant 59-77 degrees F.:
Intake: 0.13-0.17 mm (0.0051-0.0067 in.)
Exhaust: 0.16-0.20 mm (0.0063-0.0079 in.)

When hot - Coolant 140-154 degrees F.:
Intake: 0.23-0.27 mm (0.009-0.011 in.)
Exhaust: 0.26-0.30 mm (0.0102-0.0118 in.)

FYI

http://www.justbrits.com/pozi/pozidriv.html

Now I've started this I think I'd better check my old 1.3 head to make sure it really is a Pozidrive and not a Phillips. I guess its different in the US but over here all the bit sets for electric screwdrivers and such like come with both types. Phillips are marked PH and Pozidrive PZ.

Rhinoman:    Wow. I don't know where you found that. I looked but I guess I didn't look hard enough. It all makes sense now. Think of how many people can benefit from reading that article. All the times I stripped out a screw having no clue I was using the wrong driver bit. I'll be sure to properly equip my tools with some pozidrives now.

Vegabond:  Thanks for the specs. I'll surely check them now before I slap it all back together. Should save me $100.

The interior of this rig was linexed and reupholstered. Only needs a headliner. Body is straight and was repainted but with runs and thin spots. Once I have the mechanical right, all I have to do is fix the paint.

-Adam

What about the torque? 120 inch too much? Can I do it with an impact screwdriver and get away with it?

My FSM states 6.0 to 8.5 lbs-ft

Rhinoman:    Wow. I don't know where you found that. I looked but I guess I didn't look hard enough. It all makes sense now. Think of how many people can benefit from reading that article. All the times I stripped out a screw having no clue I was using the wrong driver bit. I'll be sure to properly equip my tools with some pozidrives now.

Well I've had a look at my old 1.3 head, they could be Phillips. I can't see the extra 'splines', also the Japs, IIRC, usually mark Pozidrives with a dot on the head. TBH most of them are so chewed up they could have been anything. Its dark and wet now but if we don't get a definite answer before the w/e I'll see which driver fits the one decent screw head best.

If it was me, I'd go the new bolt way.  Go with a allen head at least.  I could never get a solid enough grip on a phil. drive to torque it.

My 2 cense.