Hello Guest

Frankenstien Motor

  • 12 Replies
  • 3189 Views

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

*

Offline 4Zstracker

  • 250
  • 1
  • Gender: Male
Frankenstien Motor
« on: December 26, 2008, 05:45:27 PM »
Hey Yall!

I am in the process of rebuilding one of the spare engines that Ive got. This one is kinda a try at a performer, at least some better that stock anyways. It will eventually include a bigger cam, a header, and intake setup, along with some head flow performance work. The goal is to keep the venerable 1.6, and squeeze a little bit more juice out of it, without ruining MPG and reliability.

Here is my question though; there are several different versions of the 1.6 out there, including carbureted and TBI versions of the 8 valve, and MFI 16 valve. What parts are interchangeable, and whats not?

I have 2 of the MFI 16 valves, one is running, in my ride. The other one is sitting in the back of my parts truck, needing a crankshaft pretty bad.
I also have a TBI 8 valve, witch is actually pretty new, about 3000 mi.

So my dilemma is; can I use the newer lower end of the 8 valve and just add my 16 valve head and manifolds to it? Or are there some differences in those parts too.

From what I can tell, the block, crank and rods are the same, but the pistons are different depending on the year (92-95 being different from 96-98, or is that just the difference between the 8 and 16 valve heads?)

Will it work to Frankenstein the two engines into one?
if ya always do what ya always done, you always gonna get what ya always got...

*

Offline Jeremiah

  • 1880
  • 1
  • Gender: Male
  • Viva La ZUKIWORLD!
Re: Frankenstien Motor
« Reply #1 on: December 26, 2008, 06:20:49 PM »
Bottom end of the engines should be the same. You're not going to get much out of the 16V with head work - they're pretty much maxed out. The 8V head has more room to play with. Bolt pattern on the 8V is the same as the 1.3L (in case you're looking for headers or something). I've read about people making a custom intake manifold for the 8V and freeing up a few ponies. Go with the 8V if you want low end grunt, and the 16V if you want high-RPM power.

That said, if it were me, I wouldn't bother with trying to squeeze anything out of the 1.6L - the effort and cost is going to yield less power than swapping up to a 2.0L (which has about 35% more HP & Torque). And, I would bet a 2.0L swap is about the same cost, and probably take less effort. The ONLY think I'd do with a 1.6L is CAI, header & 2 1/4 or 2 1/2" exhaust.
'96 4 door kick: 29" Pep-Boys M/T, 1.5" OME
'83 SJ410: 31" Toyo M/T, SPOA, 1.3L
'08 Yamaha FZ6

*

Offline Rhinoman

  • 4502
  • 36
  • Gender: Male
  • Bend it, Break it, Fix it
    • Rhinoman
Re: Frankenstien Motor
« Reply #2 on: December 27, 2008, 07:44:30 AM »
I wouldn't bother with the 8V, the 16v makes 19% more power stock. The 16V also makes the same bottom end power as the 8V, the way it revs makes it seem weaker but its not. If you have a look on the Swift and othe car based forums you will get an idea of what can be done.
2000 Vitara 1.6, 3+3 Lift, 33"MTs, 5:83s, LWB brakes, Winch, Snorkel, Safari Rack
1986 SJ413K PickUp, 1.6L conversion.

OBD1 - Full diagnostics on a PC/Laptop: http://www.rhinopower.org

*

Offline 4Zstracker

  • 250
  • 1
  • Gender: Male
Re: Frankenstien Motor
« Reply #3 on: December 27, 2008, 08:42:22 AM »
Well the thing is that my truck is already set up to run the 16 valve motor. This is a spare time, do all the work myself project. And on top of that my truck runs at the moment.

I have seen some things done to both engines. I just want to know what will work and what wont.

So why is 16 valve head almost maxed out? Is there really that much flow going through it already?

How hard is it to go to the 2.0? Wiring? Computer? Does it bolt to my 5 speed trans?

Ive seen some cams and stuff out there. Ive even seen a couple blown or charged zuks. Theres gotta be more out there for these.

What have people done, here to their Zuks?
if ya always do what ya always done, you always gonna get what ya always got...

*

Offline Jeremiah

  • 1880
  • 1
  • Gender: Male
  • Viva La ZUKIWORLD!
Re: Frankenstien Motor
« Reply #4 on: December 27, 2008, 11:21:22 AM »
People have had good results with replacing the entire exhaust (headers, biger pipes, high flow cat & muffler) side of the engine, and snorkel or CAI. Can't remember why the 16V is about maxed out, but from what I've read, it is (short answer is Suzuki engineers did their job). Lots of people have tried squeezing more out of it, and got very little return for the $$$ and effort put in. The only thing I can think of that will up the power is a cam (which does more to MOVE the power up or down the RPM range than give power through throught the RPM range), and decking the head for high compression. I'd love to see some before & after dino on something like this, but remember high compression = high octane & arguably shorter engine life.

You can supercharge or turbocharge the 1.6L, but again - for the cost and effort, you're better off goign with a bigger N/A engine. N/A = same power & cost but will ALWAYS live longer & be more reliable (less parts to fail) than turbo, and you're not forced to run high octane gas.

2.0L = ~35% more power (http://members.cox.net/aftermarket4x4/current_proj.html)
2.5L = ~50% more power
2.7L = ~80% more power
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suzuki_H_engine for some reason they call teh 2.0L a V6, but it's an I4.

Chevy 4.3L has gobs of power, but I don't think it's worth the $$$, and think it's too heavy and powerful for a Suzuki - it's better off in a Cherokee or something: http://www.suzukiconversion.com/suzuki_tracker.htm#. All of the above require new wiring & ECU - you can DIY, or get a vendor to do it for around $300-$400. Many other engines have been shoe-horned in (Toyota's 22r, Mazda's rotary, diesel engines etc) - each with their own advantages and disadvantages. I like staying Suzuki - not because I'm a pureist, but because they're some of the best HP & Torque to weight engines out there (aluminum block & head).
'96 4 door kick: 29" Pep-Boys M/T, 1.5" OME
'83 SJ410: 31" Toyo M/T, SPOA, 1.3L
'08 Yamaha FZ6

*

Offline 4Zstracker

  • 250
  • 1
  • Gender: Male
Re: Frankenstien Motor
« Reply #5 on: December 29, 2008, 05:57:51 PM »
Wow, thats it? Does eveyrbody just run Motor Swaps, or stay mostly stock?

I figured there would be some more interest in getting a little more from the 1.6.
if ya always do what ya always done, you always gonna get what ya always got...

*

Offline bandit86

  • 1641
  • 1
  • Gender: Male
  • elv8rguy
Re: Frankenstien Motor
« Reply #6 on: December 29, 2008, 06:06:27 PM »
keep the 16V complete with the ecu and add a turbo or supercharger
TO BOLDLY GO WHERE NO JEEP HAS GONE BEFORE!

*

Offline Hawkeye Huey

  • 92
  • 0
  • Gender: Male
Re: Frankenstien Motor
« Reply #7 on: December 30, 2008, 06:32:20 AM »
I have a 8v I rebuilt about a year ago. I put torquer cam from hawk in combined with the thorley header and 2.5" pipes. It was a big improvement over stock. also I am using an aluminum valve cover. It has a breather inlet in the back and pcv outlet in front. this works great if you use a early style breather (square) almost a perfect fit. I can't help but think that the air flow across the head will help keep things cooler. I am in the middle of swapping in a side draft individual throttle bodies with a megasquirt controller. also getting rid of the distributer and going with a ford EDIS-4 solid state ignition setup. I'm looking for better throttle response and fuel control. I am collecting all the componits now with hopes of having it ready for Moab this April. I run an automatic transmission and have found performance parts from www.altusa.com for the th180c. I have e-mailed them and am trying to get a price on their superkit. I will post when I get the info.
1990 GEO Tracker hardtop, 3" bod, 3.5"susp, rebuilt engine, Hawk SS torquer cam,Thorley tri-y 2 1/2" pipe, TT rockmonster T-case, Lockright F/R, 5:38 R/P, Pro-comp series 51 wheels 31" GY MTR's

*

Offline Jeremiah

  • 1880
  • 1
  • Gender: Male
  • Viva La ZUKIWORLD!
Re: Frankenstien Motor
« Reply #8 on: December 30, 2008, 09:01:27 AM »
Wow, thats it? Does eveyrbody just run Motor Swaps, or stay mostly stock?

I figured there would be some more interest in getting a little more from the 1.6.

Let me state this in another way...

There's lots of interest in more power. All the typical go-fast race tricks will work. If you do all the tricks in the book you might get a 20% increase (being generous here). In a 95 HP vehicle, that's a 20 HP increase to 114 HP. The time & money invested will be comparable to a motor swap, and the motor swap will give you much better gains in HP & Torque (and will be arguably more reliable since it's not a "high strung" racing engine). With a 1.6L race engine, you'll be maxed out with the HP & Torque you can get. With the engine swap, you still have room to move up by putting in go-fast parts.

People have made the little 1.3L screamers - but my stock 1.6L will still have more torque & better gas mileage with a simple bolt-on cat-back exhaust. You have to ask yourself if you're willing to put time & money into result A that's inferior to result B for the same $$$. I like to get the most output for my money & time (and frustration), some other people like to make a little engine go as fast as it can possibly go (the challenge means more to them than the outcome) - ask yourself which person you are and take appropriate action.
'96 4 door kick: 29" Pep-Boys M/T, 1.5" OME
'83 SJ410: 31" Toyo M/T, SPOA, 1.3L
'08 Yamaha FZ6

*

Offline Rhinoman

  • 4502
  • 36
  • Gender: Male
  • Bend it, Break it, Fix it
    • Rhinoman
Re: Frankenstien Motor
« Reply #9 on: December 30, 2008, 10:43:55 AM »
For a lot of us who are offroading its low rpm power and control thats most important. Both of these tend to be lost to some extent when an engine is tuned for top end power. Off road I don't need 100mph performance, what counts is the torque at the rear wheels not at the flywheel. Thats where gearing comes in, tcase gears and R&Ps can easily give you a 100%+ increase in rear wheel power at low speeds.
Smog regulations are another reason for some to be loathe to touch their engines and the stock EFI system can't yet be easily tuned to compensate for any radical changes.
2000 Vitara 1.6, 3+3 Lift, 33"MTs, 5:83s, LWB brakes, Winch, Snorkel, Safari Rack
1986 SJ413K PickUp, 1.6L conversion.

OBD1 - Full diagnostics on a PC/Laptop: http://www.rhinopower.org

*

Offline Jeremiah

  • 1880
  • 1
  • Gender: Male
  • Viva La ZUKIWORLD!
Re: Frankenstien Motor
« Reply #10 on: December 30, 2008, 02:26:23 PM »
What he said.

If you've got a Tacker / Sidekick, get the crawler gears and call it done.
'96 4 door kick: 29" Pep-Boys M/T, 1.5" OME
'83 SJ410: 31" Toyo M/T, SPOA, 1.3L
'08 Yamaha FZ6

*

Offline beercheck

  • 1215
  • 0
  • Gender: Male
  • Go Cards!
    • trivia-nights.com
Re: Frankenstien Motor
« Reply #11 on: December 31, 2008, 01:07:09 PM »
I run an automatic transmission and have found performance parts from www.altusa.com for the th180c. I have e-mailed them and am trying to get a price on their superkit. I will post when I get the info.

Nothing adds performance like a good set of clay roof tiles.
'03 ZR2 2dr Tracker, '02 XL-7 drivetrain and electrcs
XL-7 front coils
1.5" rear coil spacers
Monroe 32316 shocks w/2" extenders
235/70-16 Bridgestone Destination A/Ts on stock XL-7 Alloys RRO Rock Rails (Presently removed, as they rusted to all hell; all the bolts were rusted to dust.  Real nice, RRO...) http://www.trivia-nights.com

*

Offline Hawkeye Huey

  • 92
  • 0
  • Gender: Male
Re: Frankenstien Motor
« Reply #12 on: December 31, 2008, 08:15:53 PM »
"Nothing adds performance like a good set of clay roof tiles."

Jeremiah,

What? you don't think the durability, and color choices just scream offroad performance?

sorry, I missed the "o", www.altousa.com, Hope this clears up the confussion
1990 GEO Tracker hardtop, 3" bod, 3.5"susp, rebuilt engine, Hawk SS torquer cam,Thorley tri-y 2 1/2" pipe, TT rockmonster T-case, Lockright F/R, 5:38 R/P, Pro-comp series 51 wheels 31" GY MTR's