Morning

I will check my parts bins today, I think I can help out but I need to check first.

Zag

Sorry AJM

     I don't have the stuff...looks like I've used up mine so now I'm on the scrounge

Zag

Hey thanks man, didn't even realize that site/group existed.  Going to have to give EastBay a call...I'm too used to dealing with Gene's I guess.

Hey thanks man, didn't even realize that site/group existed.  Going to have to give EastBay a call...I'm too used to dealing with Gene's I guess.

No Problem Hope It Helps Ya Out.....

So how in the hell am I supposed to get that bolt off? 

3-4' pipe on my breaker bar, six sided 17mm socket, head on, valves tightened down so far the lock nuts aren't on at all, spark plugs in the head, trans in first, parking brake on, wheels chocked...

Bolt doesn't loosen, the whole assembly turns with much effort, and I'm just getting f$%king pissed off.  WTF am I doing wrong?  If this thing doesn't come off I'm just a grand or so in the f$%king hole.   

Easy Now, it's an easy get off
with a little thought, you will need
a friend, get a big flat tip screw driver,
likr the 12-16 inch long kind, wedge
the blade into the teeth on the flywheel
and one guy holds it, the other turns the
nut off, use a 1/2" breaker bar, stick a
2 foot cheater (pipe) on it and turn off

That or use an impact, but you got to
remove the radiator for that

I think the starter/breaker bar/fenderwell trick I heard about will be my next try.  I went at it with a 3lb sledge and the trans in 5th and nothing happened.

There any potential downside to the starter trick?

After that out comes the radiator unless I can get at it with a universal on the end of the impact.  This is damn frustrating.  More frustrating than it's worth.

the breaker bar against the frame is the easiest way to get that bolt off w/o having to use an impact. i like to unplug the coil so the engine won't start by accident.

derek

2 cents worth  

I also had trouble with that bolt.
I tried all the things I could without any 2nd person to help.
I had to resort to the breaker bar and bumping the engine.

Pulled coil wire 1st,
wedged breaker bar against passenger side/ radiator removed
I set a cinder block on the ground, a 2 x 4 leaning against the socket area
and against the block to hold things in place while I used the remote start button.
SNAP !!!
one bump and it was loose.
I had nobody to  help hold things, so I had no choice.
But, I tried for about two hours to wedge motor and and use different techniques.  
I split a new socket, scraped knuckles, ran to work to use air gun
(towed Sammy).

That's  howI had to do it.
 

I'm doing the whole thing alone so it's likely my next try.  The wife is tool-phobic and my one truck/wheeling buddy up here moved away last year.  That's why every time I've had a quandry on this thing I've run inside and asked you guys.  No second opinions here.

Man, wish I had tried the starter and fender trick first.  Would have this thing together by now. :P  Crack and it was loose.

Which brings up my new question, how much to torque that bolt to now that I've changed the gear?

The end of the crank, keyway, and key look absolutely wonderful, just as they should.  Dipshit or whoever took the engine out of the last Tracker snapped off 4 of the little bolts clean in the sprocket and naturally figured they wouldn't need to put the 5th in if the other 4 were gone.