i have a 90' kick, someone hooked up the battery backwards, then ti stopped working. now i replaced the alternator cause it was fuuunked,. and somewhere there is a 8-10 volt draw... can anyone help me? this thing sucks when it dies in the middle of nowhere

hahaha how stupid can you get     

ok, just to clarify my grandpa (not me)  hooked it up backwards

i have a 90' kick, someone hooked up the battery backwards, then ti stopped working. now i replaced the alternator cause it was fuuunked,. and somewhere there is a 8-10 volt draw... can anyone help me? this thing sucks when it dies in the middle of nowhere

 

A good (or bad - depending on your wallet) place to start is the Engine Control Module (ECM).

I would imagine that it got fried - unless you can actually get the truck running with the new alternator and battery.  You might get lucky and find one in a salvage yard.  A pick-n-pull yard will be the cheapest.  The next choice would be Hawk's Strictly Suzuki (888) SAMURAI and Rod's Samurai Salvage http://www.samuraisalvage.com/ (email or call them at the number on the main page)

The other battery-draining culprit would be the radio.  See if you can make the problem go away by disconnecting the radio or pulling accessory/radio fuse.

hope this helps!

ok ack, it runs fine just if i stop then the battery dies, or if i drive for a while itll die. how do you know its the stereo? if i test the draw with a tester and set the tester on the intake it arcs also and makes sparks

ok so someone rigged the stereo and all the wires where touching so i unplugged it, now thereis a 6 volt draw. and its still arcing on the intake any more ideas? need to know asap or its going to the shop tommorow

ok so due to lack of replies i actually did some work... :'( and the 6 vollt draw was from the 15 A tail dome fuse,  but its still arcing when the tester touches the intake, but not when it touches a body ground... this is really confusing to me, anyone ever hooked up their battery backwards and had this problem?

Are you sure that the battery was backwards before you switched it? It almost sounds like it's backwards now, or at least something is hooked up wrong, like the body ground or something...

nope, the negative is hooked to the body ground and to where the starter bolts to the tranny, i pulled the starter cause it wasnt pushing into the flywheel, then i put the ground back on the top bolt like it was before, and the positive on the one side of the starter solonoid and then put that little wire that switches the solonoid over back on, then drove it about half an hour from my house then it died and i had to charge the battery to get home

Sounds like the new alternator is bad, get it checked out

Wild

If something is pulling the battery voltage down then its likely that it will be getting hot. I would start by charging the battery up and seeing what is working and what isn't. Then start unplugging stuff until the current draw disappears. How are you testing the draw? the intake should be at ground, is the earth strap good? Check the resistance between the engine and the battery negative.

i charge the battery and i can drive it for an hour or 2. but to test the draw i hooked up an alternator tester between the positive terminal and cable, then unplugged fuses til it went away. but its still arcing on the intake from the back of the tester is whats confusing me 

i charge the battery and i can drive it for an hour or 2. but to test the draw i hooked up an alternator tester between the positive terminal and cable, then unplugged fuses til it went away. but its still arcing on the intake from the back of the tester is whats confusing me 

If the alternator tester is in line with the cable then it should be measuring Amps not Volts. The arcing from the body of the tester to the intake would concern me too, it means that the tester must be faulty or very badly designed! It sounds like you could have a big grounding issue, maybe you burnt out an earth wire. Try measuring both the resistance and the voltage between the intake and ground. If its not zero volts or zero ohms then the engine is not properly earthed, I'm puzzled because if that was the case then I wouldn't have expected it to start, it would also throw out all the sensor readings for the EFI.

just drive it to anthonys and get it fixed so you can come to postill this weekend

ok so due to lack of replies i actually did some work... :'( and the 6 vollt draw was from the 15 A tail dome fuse,  but its still arcing when the tester touches the intake, but not when it touches a body ground... this is really confusing to me, anyone ever hooked up their battery backwards and had this problem?

Okay, when you say intake, exactly what do you mean?  If you are talking about any metal connected to the carburetor/throttle body then you might have some sort of shorted electrical component in the throttle body area.  I think there is a non-conducting spacer between the throttle body and the intake manifold and if so, it might be the reason why you have a difference in potential.  The spacer might electrically isolate the throttle body (and it's electrical devices) enough from the rest of the vehicle allowing current to flow through the damaged component.

Keep poking around with that meter and disconnecting/reconnecting engine wiring.  Look for burnt ground wires, too.  You'll find it!

BTW, nothing makes a car stereo (or any DC-powered electronics) go bad quicker than having the polarities reversed on the power input...