Okay sorry if there's some little thread somewhere that has this in it already I couldn't find one :\

when I go over bumps my pads are rattling in the calipers. I tested this just by taking the wheel off and shaking the caliper with my hand and it rattled with the same noise. (front discs, btw) My breaks feel fine, aside from some annoying pulsing.
I noticed that the clips, at least on the outside pads, were missing and they have plenty of room to rattle around.. though there is good pad on them.
I was just wondering if there was anyway I could make metal shims to go behind them or Something, the rattling is getting Really old.

Samurai?  Sidekick? GV? 

As one who has been in that position before - you're looking for thin, spring steel, which you will then have to cut and form into the correct shape - it's not going to happen.

Either get them from a junk yard or go buy a set of pads that comes with them (some do, some don't) fit the clips and keep the pads for when you need them - in my case I was lucky enough that when I stopped by a buddy he had just changed pads and I got the clips I needed out of the box he was about to toss in the trash.

Agreed. You need some brake pad shims. When you install them make sure the pads slide easily into their channels. When I first got my tracker rust scale had built up behind the shims and caused the pads to drag. Some work with a hammer and chisel fixed 'er right up.
Another tip. If you're in the market for new calipers soon the ones from autoz0ne come with new sliders, shims, washers and bolts. Be warned though. I had to return the right side caliper TWICE. One leaked out of the piston so much it was as if they didn't even install a seal. The second one had a bad casting or something and only the outer half of my pads were making contact. The only good part of the ordeal was no hassle in exchange and I got to keep both pair of hardware. SCORE!
So just inspect those rebuilds well before you go out driving.

Gents,

I have similar issue but with the brake pedal. The pedal rattles (sort of a pulse motion back and forth) under my foot when applying light pressure on it at very low speed (5 MPH)  and with high pressure on the pedal its gone and i am not sure what is that.

Vitara 2 dr 1.6 1999. front disc brakes only

Appreciate your inputs.

Mkhedr, sounds like you've got warped rotors causing the pulsing. At higher speeds thay will deflect the pad enough to cause a gap between the pad and piston. Get them changed out soon.

Just a fYI, brake rotors do not "warp"(unless the hub has issues), warping indicates that the metal surface heats and then deflects which is NOT what happens to brake rotors. Under heavy braking, particles of overheated pad material are removed and placed upon the rotor surface which then glazes over, then as the brakes are applied the pads glide over the stuck on glazed over pad material and digs into the steel on the opposing rotor face. This causes the rotors to WEAR unevely, not to actually warp.

This usually occurs due to pads intended for performance useage not getting up to temp before hard braking being performed or some kind of foreign material like grease etc contaminates the pads/rotors. I have watched many a supposed mechanic do brake jobs that leave mucky fingerprints upon the pads and discs and only give the spots a quick spray with brake parts cleaner and viola within weeks the dreaded pulsing brake pedal raises it's ugly head

Jonny, I'm So sorry I Always do this.. it's an 88 Samurai! totally forgot.

Fordem, I'd like to try what you suggested.. I've cut and bent this kind of stuff before.

Mkhedr, both bent and talonx are talking sense.
Talon, if I understood what you described then in a sense the rotors now have a warped surface, no?
No matter, Mkhedr, you need to have your rotors and/or pads checked/replaced/fixed.

Just a fYI, brake rotors do not "warp"(unless the hub has issues), warping indicates that the metal surface heats and then deflects which is NOT what happens to brake rotors. Under heavy braking, particles of overheated pad material are removed and placed upon the rotor surface which then glazes over, then as the brakes are applied the pads glide over the stuck on glazed over pad material and digs into the steel on the opposing rotor face. This causes the rotors to WEAR unevely, not to actually warp.

I'm not saying that the above doesn't happen - in fact I know it does, and I have the rotors as evidence - however - I have seen brake rotors warp, as evidenced by the run out at the edge - and since the pad does not cover the edge of the disk on this particular vehicle, there's no way that the transfer of pad material had anything to do with it.

I've had rotors warp directly after having them cut (turned), and I don't think it was a bad job, the pulsing of the pedal increased gradually as the rotor warped more & more - my theory is that cutting the rotor released "stress" that had built up over hundreds of heat cycles, and as the newly turned rotor continued to experience heat cycles it warped.

Vuzuki - if you think you can do it, and have access to the material - go right ahead - I could not find anything thin enough and springy enough.  I did have stainless steel sheet, but too thick.

We'll see fordem it's worth a shot I think, I have a great local hardware shop.. haven't asked for Anything they don't have..

Quote from: talonxracer on March 10, 2012, 06:03:40 AM

Just a fYI, brake rotors do not "warp"(unless the hub has issues), warping indicates that the metal surface heats and then deflects which is NOT what happens to brake rotors. Under heavy braking, particles of overheated pad material are removed and placed upon the rotor surface which then glazes over, then as the brakes are applied the pads glide over the stuck on glazed over pad material and digs into the steel on the opposing rotor face. This causes the rotors to WEAR unevely, not to actually warp.

I'm not saying that the above doesn't happen - in fact I know it does, and I have the rotors as evidence - however - I have seen brake rotors warp, as evidenced by the run out at the edge - and since the pad does not cover the edge of the disk on this particular vehicle, there's no way that the transfer of pad material had anything to do with it.

I've had rotors warp directly after having them cut (turned), and I don't think it was a bad job, the pulsing of the pedal increased gradually as the rotor warped more & more - my theory is that cutting the rotor released "stress" that had built up over hundreds of heat cycles, and as the newly turned rotor continued to experience heat cycles it warped.

Vuzuki - if you think you can do it, and have access to the material - go right ahead - I could not find anything thin enough and springy enough.  I did have stainless steel sheet, but too thick.

If pad material is deposited and there is uneven wear, then cutting the rotors makes them look pretty and all, but the metal has been damaged already by heat in lcoalized spots and expands contracts at different rates, now is when you can warp rotors, I should have been more explicite with my answer and stated NIB rotors wont warp,

BTW the deposited pad material will not be readily visiblely apparant, but appear as a glossy slightly discolored area

I NEVER turn rotors to fix the pulsating pedal, the pads and rotors need to be replaced. It will come back quickly.

 Upgrade to the 4dr Sidekick's vented rotors and stronger calipers. My cousin just recently upgraded his Sammi's brakes after he seen how much better they made my 2dr sidekick stop and he is as happy as a dog rolling around on a carcass.

Many Many Thanks Chaps for the comprehensive replies.