Hello Guest

proper gearing

  • 7 Replies
  • 1822 Views

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

proper gearing
« on: October 27, 2011, 09:14:26 PM »
I just bought a lifted 86 samurai, the guy was an idiot and said because of the gearing it idled at 2grand. i fixed the idle, but he also told me the gearing was 3.73. Is this a good gearing? its an every day driver and i have to use the high way and I can barely hit 60. The truck has the original 1.3L in it still.

*

Offline Skyhiranger

  • 3734
  • 122
  • I don't buy, what I can build
Re: proper gearing
« Reply #1 on: October 28, 2011, 08:18:01 AM »
3.73s are stock gears.  So no, they are not good, if you are running much bigger than stock tires.  Most guys would run 4.30s or 4.62s, with the bigger tires.
Tracker and Sidekick parts for sale.....PM me with your wants/needs.

*

Offline kreator

  • 634
  • 15
  • Gender: Male
Re: proper gearing
« Reply #2 on: October 28, 2011, 11:26:41 AM »
Man you got snow already ? !!!! Lets go play !
BOB | www.KreationFab.com | 503-689-1377

Re: proper gearing
« Reply #3 on: October 28, 2011, 04:58:59 PM »
ok thats what i thought thank you! and yea first snowfall out here is colorado springs! I had alot of fun that day!

Re: proper gearing
« Reply #4 on: October 28, 2011, 05:01:32 PM »
If anyone is selling 4.30 gears PM me!

*

Offline Merlin93

  • 170
  • 4
  • Gender: Male
Re: proper gearing
« Reply #5 on: October 29, 2011, 12:20:12 AM »
3.73 R&P are OK for stock tires. You likely have much larger tires, given your lift. Stock tires are 205/70R15 at ~26.3" diameter. Assuming that Suzuki engineers got the gearing about right, you might want to increase your high-range reduction by about the same percentage that your tire diameter is larger than stock. You can add additional reduction in the transfer case or in the front & rear differentials, or both  

As an example, my tires are true 29's, about 10% over stock.  I chose the 4.16:1 T-case gearset with 12% additional high-range reduction and kept the R&P unchanged.  There are only a few R&P ratios available to choose from.  4.30's are somewhat rare, and you'll need two sets.  Installation can be tricky if you don't know how to do it (and I don't). Up to about 31's, most guys manage with T-case gearing. Above that, adding additional R&P reduction seems to be increasingly desirable, distributing the stresses to reduce parts breakage.  Tire size is the biggest factor in choosing the correct gearing, especially for a daily driver.  Gearing is arguably the MOST popular discussion subject.  There are years of discussion and debate to assist you, just by searching. There's a good T-case gearing chart at lowrangeoffroad.com.  

Edit: The biggest advantage of T-case gearing is that you get a much lower low range than OEM (2.26:1) --  4, 5, or 6:1.  Every gearset has its own high-range reduction as well, varying according to gearset and supplier.   If you get your high-range gearing about right, your low range gearing seems to work out as well.  Also, the early Sami's had a ~8% higher (lower numerically) 5th OD gear.  Later Zuks had the 5th ratio lowered (higher numerically) for better pulling power on the highway, at the expense of a few hundred highway RPM.  With your early 5th gear, you could consider greater gear reduction than would work for my later ('93) model on the highway.
« Last Edit: November 03, 2011, 01:30:56 PM by Merlin93 »

Re: proper gearing
« Reply #6 on: October 29, 2011, 11:39:44 AM »
Great info thank you! I need some more help now, The idle after it warms up gets very rough. I just did the timing that helped it not stall. new wires, and plugs gaped to the proper specs. Tomorrow I will adjust the valves and see if that helps, I think the biggest thing is the fuel air mix. I cannot figure out how to adjust the carb. My Haynes doesnt help at all. Ive tried looking it up online and have had no luck 

*

Offline zuksofhazzard

  • *
  • 503
  • 7
  • Gender: Male
  • them darn Zuk boys
    • MOAB PICS
Re: proper gearing
« Reply #7 on: November 02, 2011, 07:16:18 AM »
I had a Crazy Issue with a Samurai a long time ago.

It would Start and Run Great when the choke was on. It would Drive Great as long as I was giving it throttle. IT WOULD NOT IDLE!!! It would always start up with a little pedal pressure when warm.

I tolerated it for a while before figuring it out. Turns out the Samurai ECM controls the Idle on the Carb!

So, I unplugged the ECM, which is under the dash near the Glove Box, then Plugged it back together making sure it was Firmly Connected. It Idled Instantly!

Who knows, if you have a Stock Samurai Carb, this may work for you?