Okay zukers here is the scoop. I have a 95' manual kick with 235/75/r15 bfg all terrain tires and a calmini 3'' body lift. Question one is my tracker has a raked look to it. Like it slumps in the front, it has new struts up front. Whats the problem? Second question is I know I have 5:12 cogs, but is this the actual ratio with the 235/75/r15's or did it come stock with smaller tires. I know these might be dumb questions but hey lets face it I'm only 18 and this is my second one. Yes my second one the first one was a kick that i just beat the hell out of and believe me i'm kicking myself in the as$ real hard right now.

Hey, you posted this 2 times!!!

I think the slat is because of the extra stress wide offset wheels put on the front suspension, at least that is what some other member said.  He also said, I think, is that he use some coil spacers to correct the problem.

I have stock tracker rims . So is it something else

o yeah aorry about the same post twice i ve been known to do dumb things from time to time

I have stock tracker rims . So is it something else

I don't know what it could be but I have a similar problem with a 3in body lift and 31's.  I'll try to search for the old post and see if it has any more info.

Well you said Cal-Mini 3" Body lift, otherwise
I'd say it was their springs settling, best guess
is just settled springs, you could get a set of
springs from Hawks, or go to 4 door springs
for more rate up front.

The 5.12:1 axle gears in the man trans give
a slightly higher final drive ratio than an auto
with 4.62:1 cogs. (comparison done with a 16V Geo)
I found with 235 tires, the speedo on my auto kick
read 100% correct, the stock 205 tires caused a 2-3
MPH over speed missread, and the power difference
is not really noticable, at least to me. (pre turbo)

Mine looks like it sits down in the front, always has done, it came from the factory like it.

Even with stock rims a bigger tire can put more load onto the spring.  I'd try spacers if its a problem.  Cheep fix is money is an issue (compaired to the Calimini lift).

All Suzuki 4x4's have a forward rake to them. When I bought my 94 Sammy, it was raked.  When I bought my 00 GV, it was raked.


The reason I was told is that the rear of the truck is unloaded.  fill each seat with a rider, and add luggage to the rear, then check it out.  You'll be surprised.

Just a rundown on calculating your effective gear ratio.

First off obtain the outside diameter of the stock tires (205/75/15) to do this you multiply the 75 by two because that means the height of the tire relative to the width of it is .75

You multiply it by two because you have two of these sections added together when you measure the diameter from the outside of the tire to the other outside edge.  (adjust the 75 to whatever the tire is if you want to calculate for another tire size of course)  

So you have 205*(2*75) which works out to 307.5mm of tire in the overall outer diameter.  Now multiply the 15 by 25.4 to convert the 15" wheel to milimeters.   You get 381mm.  Add the 381 and the 307.5 and you end up with a total outer diameter of 688.5mm.  Write down this figure you'll need it later.

Now for the 235/75/15 we end up with 733.5 mm for an outside diameter.

Divide the 688.5 by 733.5 and you end up with:

0.93865030674846625766871165644172

This means your effective gear ratio is rougly 94% of the original so with 235's your rear end is now for all intents and purposes a 4.80:1 ratio if it was a 5.12:1 originally.

Alternately if you divide 733.5 by 688.5 you end up with 1.065 and change.  Multiply what's actually reading on your spedometer by the 1.065 and that's your actual speed.  

It's not much difference on the 235's but say you move to 31's your gear ratio is now only 87% of what it was which works out to 4.4544:1 as an effective gear ratio.  

So the quick formula is:

original diameter/new diameter = the effective multiplier for the original ratio

new diameter/old diameter = multiplyer for your speedometer's output to reflect how fast you're actually going with the bigger tires.  (so you don't get a ticket of course)

The real kicker for me is that with 31's on my auto I'm now running an effective rear end ratio of about 4.0:1.

33's on an auto are 3.79:1 or on the manual rear ends it works out to 4.20:1.  If you get the Calmini 5.83's it ends up with an effective ratio of 4.78:1  Which means that with 33's and the 5.83's you're basically about even with running 235's on a 5.12 gearset.  

That's a great answer, but it's too much math.
Try this.

http://wildcatent.freeyellow.com/zookmods/calc.htm

Just a rundown on calculating your effective gear ratio.

First off obtain the outside diameter of the stock tires (205/75/15) to do this you multiply the 75 by two because that means the height of the tire relative to the width of it is .75

You multiply it by two because you have two of these sections added together when you measure the diameter from the outside of the tire to the other outside edge.  (adjust the 75 to whatever the tire is if you want to calculate for another tire size of course)  

So you have 205*(2*75) which works out to 307.5mm of tire in the overall outer diameter.  Now multiply the 15 by 25.4 to convert the 15" wheel to milimeters.   You get 381mm.  Add the 381 and the 307.5 and you end up with a total outer diameter of 688.5mm.  Write down this figure you'll need it later.

Now for the 235/75/15 we end up with 733.5 mm for an outside diameter.

Divide the 688.5 by 733.5 and you end up with:

0.93865030674846625766871165644172

This means your effective gear ratio is rougly 94% of the original so with 235's your rear end is now for all intents and purposes a 4.80:1 ratio if it was a 5.12:1 originally.

Alternately if you divide 733.5 by 688.5 you end up with 1.065 and change.  Multiply what's actually reading on your spedometer by the 1.065 and that's your actual speed.  

It's not much difference on the 235's but say you move to 31's your gear ratio is now only 87% of what it was which works out to 4.4544:1 as an effective gear ratio.  

So the quick formula is:

original diameter/new diameter = the effective multiplier for the original ratio

new diameter/old diameter = multiplyer for your speedometer's output to reflect how fast you're actually going with the bigger tires.  (so you don't get a ticket of course)

The real kicker for me is that with 31's on my auto I'm now running an effective rear end ratio of about 4.0:1.

33's on an auto are 3.79:1 or on the manual rear ends it works out to 4.20:1.  If you get the Calmini 5.83's it ends up with an effective ratio of 4.78:1  Which means that with 33's and the 5.83's you're basically about even with running 235's on a 5.12 gearset.  

My brain hurts.



Mike

Oh c'mon it's not like it's fourier transformations or something obnoxous.

It's just a simple bit of divide/add/multiply stuff, heck you're on a computer whicm means you've got the ever popular calc.exe program to do the dirty work for ya.

Also handy for doing tire size changes in general so you can keep the outer diameter pretty close if you're doing a +1/+2/+3 treatment with the wheels (not like any of the off road crowd cares because 15" rims are all anyone uses aside from OEM wheels) Heck I'm doing a +4 treatment cause I can run 295/35/18's on my Datsun's rear axle with the 4.11 rear end I have for it and get an effective 3.90 rear which is just about perfect for what I'm doing with it. Mmm Turbos, gotta love 400+ horsepower in a 2400 pound car, might even end up being closer to 500 or more if I can get a Skyline GTR Engine for it at a decent price.  If you know what I'm talking about you know what a kickass engine it is.

Oh and while the tire size equation is something I already knew I'd just like to once again put in a shameless plug for the "Auto Math Handbook"  It's a very well spent 17 bucks for reference.  (AKA it's much cheaper to model things mathematically than it is to repeatedly use real world trial and error)

It's just a simple bit of divide/add/multiply stuff, heck you're on a computer whicm means you've got the ever popular calc.exe program to do the dirty work for ya.

You mean /usr/X/bin/xcalc, right?