I was woundering if anyone has had a real hard time bleeding the breaks on a sammy?  Put new break lines on and blead the lines, did it for a long time, but still have to pump the breask to build pressure.  Some shops say there very difficult to bleed.  Could it be a vacume problem to?

Millski

Na, sometimes I have had the same problem on my sammy.  When I tossed in new Calibers I had to bleed the "BEEP" out of them.  must be due to all the air in the lines with the new parts.

John

Ya i guess its going to have to be that, more bleeding.
 i could get a power vacum bleeder and save my self an hour of fun, and the mess.
Thanks

Millski

had the same problem still haven't got them right

i just put 4 new lines and i havnt got the to bleed right ether........|removethispart|@%#$|removethispart|@&

When I last worked on my rear axle, I installed speed bleeders that I picked up at O'Reilleys' Auto Parts.  They are 10mm Metric units that replace the original bleeder on each wheel.  I found them in the "generic parts" section where they sell stuff that fits on many different cars.

Basically, they have a one-way valve in them  that automatically closes when you release the brake pedal (which would normally cause suction, introducing air back into the brake system) while bleeding the brakes.

You unscrew the speed brake, attach a rubber hose (clear hose is helpful!) to the end of it to catch the brake fluid and then you pump while making sure that you keep refilling the master cylinder resevoir. When brake fluid flows clear (no tiny air bubbles) close the bleeder and try the brake pedal again.

Always start at the wheel farthest away from the master cylinder (I start on one of the driver' side rear wheel...) and work your way forward.  As you do this, the brake pedal will get progressively less spongy until on the driver's side front, the pedal is rock hard.  You may use up an entire pint of brake fluid.  Don't reuse the old stuff.  It's probably contaminated anyway.  Just take it to your local recycling facility or to an auto repair shop for proper disposal.

Speed bleeders are less than 20 bucks a pair and are worth every penny IMHO.

Hope this helps!

ya we did that all, still lots of air in the line.  Most of the break shops say you have to elevate the rear end of the car 3 feet off the ground.
They were saying that the placement of the bleader hole, dosnt allow all the air to get out of the system. they said that when they work on sammys that the only way to get all the air out and get it to a "clean" system is to go with the power vac bleeders.
3 shops told us that

Millski

Is it possible you could position the caliper on the rotor so that the bleeder valve is straight up without actually bolting it on, and then reposition it when you're done? It worked on another vehicle for me. Not a samurai. The auto part store sold me two rights. They were interchangable except that the bleeder valve faced straight down on the left front. All the air rose so you couldn't evacuate it properly without flipping it upside down and positioning it on the rotor temporarily. Worked in a pinch.

-Adam