ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: AJMBLAZER on December 31, 2005, 11:56:18 AM
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If I ever see the prior owners of this vehicle and their 14 year old son who they so proudly stated did all the work on the engine swap...I'll shoot them all and mount their heads on stakes in my front yard. >:(  They're lucky they live 3 hours from me.
So the pictures below show what I found today during my head swap work. Amazing what you find when you remove the fan and shroud and can see down there. I'm also amazed and mystified (like Big Foot, UFO's, and Lock Ness stuff) as to how my engine was even running. The crank pulley that shares the belt with the alternator and water pump was held on by NOTHING. All 5 little bolts are either snapped off or missing.
POINT 1 - Can anyone tell me the thread and depth specifications of these bolts? I understand they're supposed to be allen head bolts but if regular bolts would work I'd prefer that.
The little keyway slot on the pulley is just gone, all worn out and banged up. The pulley must have been wabbling so bad it made a big gouge in the timing belt cover. F-ing wonderful.
I've read the fix in the FAQ but that seems to apply more to the pulley actually on the end of the crank for the timing belt. My problem is with the pulley beyond that for the accessories belt. The pulley and end of the crank appear okay, but the key looks chewed up. You can see in the picture, but I haven't cleaned much down there yet. I'm too livid right now.
POINT 2 - So how screwed am I? What can I do? Suggestions, hints, tips, etc?
POINT 3 - What do I need to start buying? It's New Years Eve and most parts stores are closing soon. I was hoping to have this thing running by tomorrow...figures... :(
God I hate prior owners....it's ALMOST enough to make me go my father's route and only buy new vehicles...but they're all so lame... :P
(http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?action=dlattach;topic=30467.0;attach=21236;image)
(http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?action=dlattach;topic=30467.0;attach=21238;image)
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judging by your picture i would go and get a crank pulley from the wrecker. you can't use that one. as for the timing belt sprocket are the bolts shearded off in the sprocket? it's hard to tell from the picture how badly damaged the key is. the best thing to do would be to take off the sprocket and extract the broken bolts from it and then you would just need to get new bolts for it. you dont need the allen head but just a grade 8 bolt or better. if you cant then just get the pulley, sprocket, and key from the wrecker. hope this helps
derek
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That's kind of what I was afraid of. The local junkyards are uhm.....expensive and so-so on service. Not sure if I want to go try and find these as I'd have to do it myself in the snow and cold...and take time off work to do it as well...next week. Hmmmm.....
Anyone sell this stuff online?
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The thread is M6x1mm and they are threaded right the way through to the plate at the back.
That's about all the help I can give you from down under, Good luck !
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Dude you are in luck - trust me, it could have been worse.
The pulley and belt sprocket are seperate from the crank assembly so you just need to source replacements - I am sure plenty of guys on this forum have killed / worn out a few motors so send out a post requesting the parts or give your local genuine Zuk parts supplier a call ( parts are actually pretty cheap new ( well here in NZ any way ).
The only problem I see is that all this will take time but look on the bright side - it could have been something more serious like a crank :-X
Good luck ;)
ZeusZuki.
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Thanks guys. I'm finding that yes, it could have been worse. Figures it happens on New Year's Eve though, no junkyards are open and I didn't work on it yesterday...
I'll have to find some of those bolts and see what else I can come up with.
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i have the whole shooting match ill sell you all the hardware you need including cover for 65.00 plus shipping let me know .steve
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zuk1972, you have a PM.
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Still looking. ::)
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I have a spare timing belt pulley/sprocket, the one with 5 bolt holes.
I also have the bolts.
It is the same on the 1.3 or 1.6.
The outer pulley that drives the alt. is different between the two motors.
I have a spare for the 1.3, it takes a V-shaped belt.
If you have the other style it will not work, unless you change the pulley on alt to match.
My 1.6 takes a more flatter belt, ( I can't think of the name just now)
Do you have a 1 belt pulley or 2 belt or even a 3 belt. V -belt or Flat
Power steering, A/C, ??????
I also have a cover, it looks better than yours, but not perfect.
Cost for all items,
FREE.
If you want the items send me an e mail.
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1.3 and 1.6 are not exactly the same, you
must use the 1.6 cog and cam pulley on a
1.6 engine, tho you could swap both pullies,
but them where are you going to find a 2" longer
timing belt for the other pullies.
a 1.6 engine is 1 inch taller in the block than a 1.3
engine, stick to the 1.6 parts, the 1.3 belt has different
shaped teeth, in case you were wondering
Wild
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Hi Wild,
I quess at a glance it looks the same.
Sorry about the confusion.
I never tried swapping the parts between the two, only worked on both with front seal leaks.
They seemed to look the same.
Do you think the outside pulley alone would work?
Maybe he can remove broken bolts from inside timing belt sprocket and use the pulleys I have on the outside.
I do have a spare alt for that pulley.
Camozuki
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Just trying to keep us all on the same page ;)
The 1.6 Engine uses a multi rib belt (fan), where the
1.3 Engine uses a V Belt, and I think there were
4 bolts in the 1.3 crank cog, or something like
that was different, if you swap all the pullies you
can change belt styles, a 1.3 Alt pulley will go on
a 1.6 unit, and the water pump pully will swap, but
that's more work.
I almost used a 1.6L cam cog on a 1.3 engine, just
because it's a better design, then I noticed the belt
is square tooth, and a 1.3 belt is round tooth, just
enough to mess things up, it might work, but it's not
right.
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Thanks for offering camozuki. This thing is already a mishmash of years as it is and I just want to keep it as simple as possible for the next year or two so I'm going to look into getting the parts locally.
No AC, no PS.
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Thanks for offering camozuki. This thing is already a mishmash of years as it is and I just want to keep it as simple as possible for the next year or two so I'm going to look into getting the parts locally.
No AC, no PS.
http://www.automotiverecyclers.org/.... try a search here.. Eastbay autoparts has the crank pulley for $25.00... GOOD LUCK... ;D
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Morning
I will check my parts bins today, I think I can help out but I need to check first.
Zag
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Sorry AJM
I don't have the stuff...looks like I've used up mine so now I'm on the scrounge
Zag
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Hey thanks man, didn't even realize that site/group existed. Going to have to give EastBay a call...I'm too used to dealing with Gene's I guess. ::)
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Hey thanks man, didn't even realize that site/group existed. Going to have to give EastBay a call...I'm too used to dealing with Gene's I guess. ::)
No Problem Hope It Helps Ya Out..... ;D
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So how in the hell am I supposed to get that bolt off? ???
3-4' pipe on my breaker bar, six sided 17mm socket, head on, valves tightened down so far the lock nuts aren't on at all, spark plugs in the head, trans in first, parking brake on, wheels chocked...
Bolt doesn't loosen, the whole assembly turns with much effort, and I'm just getting f$%king pissed off. WTF am I doing wrong? If this thing doesn't come off I'm just a grand or so in the f$%king hole.  >:(
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Easy Now, it's an easy get off
with a little thought, you will need
a friend, get a big flat tip screw driver,
likr the 12-16 inch long kind, wedge
the blade into the teeth on the flywheel
and one guy holds it, the other turns the
nut off, use a 1/2" breaker bar, stick a
2 foot cheater (pipe) on it and turn off
That or use an impact, but you got to
remove the radiator for that
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I think the starter/breaker bar/fenderwell trick I heard about will be my next try. I went at it with a 3lb sledge and the trans in 5th and nothing happened.
There any potential downside to the starter trick?
After that out comes the radiator unless I can get at it with a universal on the end of the impact. This is damn frustrating. More frustrating than it's worth.
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the breaker bar against the frame is the easiest way to get that bolt off w/o having to use an impact. i like to unplug the coil so the engine won't start by accident.
derek
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2 cents worth  ;D
I also had trouble with that bolt.
I tried all the things I could without any 2nd person to help.
I had to resort to the breaker bar and bumping the engine.
Pulled coil wire 1st,
wedged breaker bar against passenger side/ radiator removed
I set a cinder block on the ground, a 2 x 4 leaning against the socket area
and against the block to hold things in place while I used the remote start button.
SNAP !!!
one bump and it was loose.
I had nobody to  help hold things, so I had no choice.
But, I tried for about two hours to wedge motor and and use different techniques. ÂÂ
I split a new socket, scraped knuckles, ran to work to use air gun
(towed Sammy).
That's  howI had to do it.
:D
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I'm doing the whole thing alone so it's likely my next try. The wife is tool-phobic and my one truck/wheeling buddy up here moved away last year. That's why every time I've had a quandry on this thing I've run inside and asked you guys. No second opinions here. :P
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Man, wish I had tried the starter and fender trick first. Would have this thing together by now. :P Crack and it was loose.
Which brings up my new question, how much to torque that bolt to now that I've changed the gear?
The end of the crank, keyway, and key look absolutely wonderful, just as they should. Dipshit or whoever took the engine out of the last Tracker snapped off 4 of the little bolts clean in the sprocket and naturally figured they wouldn't need to put the 5th in if the other 4 were gone. ::)