ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: hobgoblin on January 15, 2006, 06:06:43 PM
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Ok Guys,
I see a lot of people wanting to make bodylifts.I've seen the 3 sq. tube etc.Try this one...
Take a large washer,weld a metric nut to it,Take an other washer weld a bolt the same length as the body has.Cut length of tubing...2 or 3" and weld the washers to the tubing.Use loctite etc. and this would solve the problems with the sleaves etc.This should be a low cost way of lifting etc. Any Thoughts...????I'm going to start fabing a set,anybody know the thread size so I don't have to tear it apart to get the nuts etc.
Later Tom K ;D
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I can't quite visualize it. but am interested.. am thinking about easier ways for this myself.
Can you post a drawing?
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If I understand it correctly it sounds quite dangerous. Your counting on welds on a tube holding the body on during an impact. The 3 inch square tube is quite safe if done safely.
Mike
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sounds like a lot of fiddle f|removethispart|@#%ing around if u ask me.. i like things simple like diggers coil spacers pretty simple ..u can buy a 3'' bodylift pretty cheap with all hardware needed for about 150 bucks canadian sooo theat what 50 bucks u.s....lol i think the companys name is master kit.. or something like that... thats just me though..u can do what u want...
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I found this way to be better.
3"inch square blocks.
I can use the Factory bolts, rubber mounts and new bolts to the frame.
(http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/8/web/2072000-2072999/2072560_6_full.jpg)
Cost about 50 bucks in steel and enough to built 2. ;D
I'll be replacing the one on my 2dr with the extras.
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The thing is, you don't need a "sleve nut" with 2.5" or 3" box steel lift, and you're using bolts that don't require welding, why create more work? Only 2" poly block(or 3")needs a sleve nut, someone started a thread on having sleve nuts made, not sure if you noticed it or not.
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The longer the bolt is, the weaker it is.
It's all in strength.
The factory bolts aint that much better.
You add to those and the added leverage could kill it.
There has been more than one time that has failed, causing the body
to move forward in the event of a sudden stop (crash).
But that is just my opion on this subject.
Better to be over engineered than under engineered.
But thats just me. ;)
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Better to be over engineered than under engineered.
I made my 3" box steel body lift with 1/4" wall - Is this over engineered? ;D ;D
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Ha ha, ya, bomb proof.
I made my lift out of 1/4" wall
3" square tubing, but I made it like
a big nut, they screw on to the body
studs, took too much time to build, I
think some of the other stuff I've seen
works as well, and is easier to install.
Then again I lifted the body 4", and that
wasn't available anywhere
Wild
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Somone mentioned master kit...
here is a link
http://www.masterkit1.com/
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Ok,
I see your points about safety...Why Is it that I never think about things like that..The body bolts would be the weak link..I not stuck on my self but had own welding shop for 5 years and built many racecar chassis...But the stock bolts are not very good to begin with.With the 3" tubing are you moving the fan shroud?fuel filler hose??What all is needed to do this?Hummm....Might just cut the stock bolts out and use long grade 8 bolts...My trackers rear mounts in front of rear tires need help anyway.I like Calmini's kit because the bumper brackets.
Tom K.