ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: HotRod on June 23, 2005, 06:26:59 PM
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Heres hopefully my weekend project
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/Xtreme%20bodylift.jpg)
3/16 steel 3x3x6 square
This is so I can double bolt the block to the mount and make it stronger
Extended shifters ;D no rebending and hoping it works
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/Xtreme%20bodylift%20shifters.jpg)
Okay heres a pic.
I cut out the bodymount and the floor board from my parts car to insure it would set up right. (gotta love a parts car) This way you can see the place for the 2 bottom bolts and the stock top one with the factory rubbers.
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/Xtreme%20bodylift%20mount%202.jpg)
In Theory, this should be stronger than any store bought one.
hopefull we'll see a done pic by Monday.
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So... you're just adding a second hole in the bottom of the lift block tube thinger?
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Is this going on the four door?? :-/
You already have a Calmini three inch on the HotRod.
Cwkick
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Posted by: explosivo Posted on: Today at 3:37am So... you're just adding a second hole in the bottom of the lift block tube thinger?
Well Yes. Instead of having just a little 3x3x3 tube and having all the weight on just one little spot, I'm trying to spread the load. Hopefully I won't bend the mount on this one.
Posted by: Cwkick Posted on: Today at 7:21am Is this going on the four door??
Why yes, yes I am ;D
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QUESTION TIME: (sorry if this is a hi-jack)
Could this be done with 2x2 box steel for a 2" b/l ?
If I wanted to use aluminum cylinder stock instead of box steel, would that be strong enough? AND are the stock body studs long enough for 2"? What diameter cylinder would be big enough?
And - How did you remove the t-case shifter?
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QUESTION TIME: (sorry if this is a hi-jack)
Could this be done with 2x2 box steel for a 2" b/l ?
If I wanted to use aluminum cylinder stock instead of box steel, would that be strong enough? AND are the stock body studs long enough for 2"? What diameter cylinder would be big enough?
And - How did you remove the t-case shifter?
Heres the one answer I can give ya.
The shifter.
Pull up the boot on the shifter
then push down and turn the cup the shifter goes through.
hopefully somebodyelse will chime in and give you the answers you need.
This is all I know ;) ;D
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in australia, we can only get body lifts approved/engineered and legal for road use if they are made out of HDPE (hard plastic) or engineering grade aluminium. the HDPE needs to have a cruch tube through it. 2" is considered max for safety.
you will need to work out a way to use the above/aluminium blocks with the body studs. if you use the aluminium, you will need to tap a thread through the middle, and screw them on to the body studs.
if you use 2", then you might need to cut some of the threaded studs shorter to fit the block. you will then need to source some HT bolts, that will go up through the chassis mount, and screw into the bottom of the BL block.
the block should go hard up against the body, and the rubber isolaters between the block and the chassis mounts.
for HDPE, you should be able to get something that resembles a sleeve, which is threaded though the middle. it may need to be about 2" long, therefore you can screw 1" of it onto the body stud, and the other inch will be for the bolt. i am unsure of what this is called, and i dont have a pic to show you. basically, it lets you screw 2 bolts into each other, end to end.
yes, it is more complicated, and yes, it will be more expensive, but it will be stronger if you do it right. thats why these two are the only approved methods, and this is also how the kits are in aus.
i use box section, 3"x3", and of thick wall. i dont see how this will ever bend with off roading, or normal day to day driving.
maybe if i were involved in an accident, the body might become an escape pod and leave the chassis if the box decides to pull apart. i highly doubt it. i have seen rigs roll over and the box section usually holds up.
i have the 4 mounts between the front and rear tyres facing out, and the front and rear mounts, facing the opposite direction. i guess if you have them all facing the same way, there may be more of a chance that the box will flatten in the one direction.
hope this helps.
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I used 2in tubing in my body lift and the extra work needed, I wish I had just bought 3in tubing. It was more a headache trying to get everything to fit. When I start to do my axle swaps I will be getting 3 in and redoing the body lift and using the 2 front and 2 rear body mount locations to help add bumper mounting points.
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The aluminum sounds like way too much work, and I don't want to go with a 3" lift, would 2x2 or 2x3 box steel be okay? or would I have trouble getting it together ?
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The Calmini 3" BL uses 2x2 tubing with a 1" tall spacer on top for three inches of lift... if the whole body mount stud is threaded, you'll have no problem using 2x2. Assuming this, since there are 2" BL's made for Trackicks out there :)
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I wish I could take all the credit for doing it but I can't. I dropped  it off at my Lil Bro and had to go to an Off-Road shop in Vancouver for a Grand Opening (trying to support'em) By the time I got back to my Bros house, It was sitting on blocks and bolted.
All I did was help bolt up the bumpers, Tighten the rest of the bolts, Drop front brake line down, test fit steering shaft, weld it up (he did) and button it up.
I should really leave it over there more often ;) ;D
Left bodymount
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/BL%20mount%20On%20%20Left%20front.jpg)
Rear bodymount
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/BL%20rear%20mount%20on%20(2).jpg)
From this
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/97%20Sidekick%20%201%2003%2005%20(3).jpg)
to this and Done ;D
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/4dr%20BL%20left%20rear.JPG)
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/4dr%20BL%20rightfront.JPG)
Here it sits in His Driveway next to his jeep with a 3"inch lift. dang, My Kick still looks Bigger ;D
(http://www.omghi2.us/april05/BL%20Kick%20and%20jeep.jpg)
Sorry for the poor pics. Only had Camera phone.
It does take good close-up pics tho.
Gotta get off my A-- and use my Dig Cam.
Front bumper not staying, As Soon as SHROCKWORKS gets there front Tube Winch Bumper done (and I get it) It's going on ;D
Back bumper probley staying.
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Congratulation!
You have the best, cleanest, strongest sidekick/tracker body-lift in the world!!!
Fredo
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Congratulation!
You have the best, cleanest, strongest sidekick/tracker body-lift in the world!!!
Fredo
That was my #1 goal, after seeing how some bodylifts will collapse after a good jump or nose dive over sand dunes. ;)
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looks awsome rod. only problem i had with mine is the body mount to the 3x3 tubing usually rippes out of the body after a couple of months of hard off roading. well i painted my zuk this weekend (desert camo) nate helped me. now heather wants to do a green camo to hers. ;D
ill get pics soon looks kool ;)
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looks awsome rod. only problem i had with mine is the body mount to the 3x3 tubing usually rippes out of the body after a couple of months of hard off roading.
"O" just frinkin Great. Now back to the drawing board ;) ;D
Guess I won't be following you anywhere ;) ;D
that thought did cross my mind, I wonder if there is something to do to make the stock ones stronger or just replace them?
well i painted my zuk this weekend (desert camo) nate helped me. now heather wants to do a green camo to hers. ÂÂ
ill get pics soon looks kool ;)
Is that by Rattle can or paint gun?
Dang, another idea gone. I figured since mine was already green, a nice flat green would look good.
Can't wait for pics.
Go JOE!! ;D
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looks awsome rod. only problem i had with mine is the body mount to the 3x3 tubing usually rippes out of the body after a couple of months of hard off roading. well i painted my zuk this weekend (desert camo) nate helped me. now heather wants to do a green camo to hers. ;D
ill get pics soon looks kool ;)
i just luuuurrve the camo paint jobs.
have a look at this thread:
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modules/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=47576&sid=7236fd1fcf7d408e0baac8fe52722277
this kid is addicted too.
and PICS please. thanks
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in australia, we can only get body lifts approved/engineered and legal for road use if they are made out of HDPE (hard plastic) or engineering grade aluminium. the HDPE needs to have a cruch tube through it. 2" is considered max for safety.
I'll read the rest of the thread later, but I just gotta I just gotta reply to this ;D :P
In the Philippines, the cops don't have a f*cking idea what a body lift is ;D
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Good jeeeeeeeooooooooorb! Looks real tight. I see all the pics of the body mounts, but how did those shifter extensions work out for ya. Someone mentioned a rattle can, are you gonna, or did you already paint the body lift pieces for that extra clean pro look?
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Good jeeeeeeeooooooooorb! Looks real tight.  I see all the pics of the body mounts, but how did those shifter extensions work out for ya.  Someone mentioned a rattle can, are you gonna, or did you already paint the body lift pieces for that extra clean pro look? ÂÂ
Tranny shifter works great, The T-case might have a little problem (had to turn the topo boot around). I've been wanting to paint the blocks but it hasn't stop rainning and I haven't got home from work till dark(14hr days)
I've thought about a camo job but function first, then looks ;) ;D