ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: Blurple90 on February 01, 2006, 08:48:01 AM
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I have a 97 16v 4dr auto kick on 31s. Ive put a turbo on every vehicle ive ever owned, now it is the kick's turn. I'm going to use a t25, a 13g, or a 14b. I've got some questions:
Is the fuel pressure regulator on the 16v a rising rate?
does the 16v have a knock or detonation sensor?
how much can the stock fuel system take before larger injectors and fuel management are needed, i plan to install larger injectors but not right away
where can i get a higher pressure regulator, off of another vehicle or would it have to be aftermarket, maybe something like a universal B&M
Where is the best place to buy a manifold if i decide not to build one?
thanks, Alex
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one word: wildgoody
Stu
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Alex,
If you do a search for Turbo, Mega Squirt or posts by wildgoody you should be able to find the answers to most of your questions.
Zig
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Have a look at these links and also Baldurg on http://www.teamswift.net/index.php has a 4door Turbo too.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=315025&highlight=winter+sleeper
http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=3482.0
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Ive read all the posts I could find on zuwharrie, pirate, and this site, including the ones you linked. I asked these questions because none of that material answered them. Believe me i have searched. I know turbos well, my questions are specific to the 16v 1.6 in my kick because i dont know enough about its fuel system.
Alex
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I also dont want to go with megasquirt. Nothing against it, ive used it before, its great for certain applications. On a full race or even a weekend car its great. I have used MAF setups before also. I am going to supplement the MAF with a piggyback, SAFC very reliable and very inexpensive. A piggyback would not work well on wild's application from what i can tell (the posts are mostly dated a year ago). MS is certainly the best choice for his TBI plus 4 injector setup. The SAFC will probably be my choice once i have a better understanding of the 16v fuel and ignition system. If it is like the MAF equipped turbocharged vehicles i have worked with before im sure i choose an SAFC.
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Ive read all the posts I could find on zuwharrie, pirate, and this site, including the ones you linked. I asked these questions because none of that material answered them. Believe me i have searched. I know turbos well, my questions are specific to the 16v 1.6 in my kick because i dont know enough about its fuel system.
Alex
Actually I thought it answered a couple of them.
The Pirate one tells you where you can get a manifold from and the Zukiworld talks about the ability of the injectors and stock ecm coping with a certain amount of boost.
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Actually I thought it answered a couple of them.
The Pirate one tells you where you can get a manifold from and the Zukiworld talks about the ability of the injectors and stock ecm coping with a certain amount of boost.
Yes, but i was wondering if there was anyone else who made them, i sent Turbine Tech an E-mail but they havnet responded yet. They talked of what they thought it could handle but never about actually doing it. At least that is what i understood. I thought someone might have tried by now and could give some input. I also wanted to know what the ecm could do with extra fuel pressure and how to get it? I havnt seen any adjustable fuel pressure regulators for the 16v. I could use a universal regulator but a model specific one might be better. Ive read of adding fuel pressure but not how to do it. I have an adjustable regulator that used to be on one of my DSMs it uses -6 and -8 AN ports and lines, that seems like overkill for a 16v. Maybe a stock vehicle has a higher pressure rising rate regulator that would fit on the 16v fuel rail.
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one word: wildgoody
Stu
What he said. ;D
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Somebody call me ;D
Hey, turbo 4 door, cool, the stock EFI seems
to cope with the boost, you could add some
bigger injectors, but Redboard (I think it was)
said the fuel flow was good with the stock units.
As a turbo guy, you know you should avoid more
than 5 PSI with stock pistons, I melted one down
on the way to Moab last year. :'(
That sucked, missed all the fun, didn't get to wheel
except for Ross who took me along on the Golden Spike
run, and Heather and Nate who took me along to the Arches.
I think the regulator is a rising rate 1:1, I will find out when
I put together my new engine, and build the 16V exhaust header
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I read his posts, I think he said something about raising the fuel pressure on the stock system but never said how. Guess i'll have to find a way.
Ive melted a few pistons ;D. I'll start out around 5-7psi, then add a little after i get bugs worked out. Melting a cast or any piston under boost usually happens when running too lean and getting too much knock/detonation/ping(everyone has a different name for it). As long as i can keep my timing advance and air/fuel ratios reasonable without getting knock. i am going to run about 9-12 psi. The problems i have had with cast pistons under boost in the past is that they actually crack, usually at the ring lands, under all the stress.
I think i read that you tune with a wideband 02? What A/F ratio do you run? Do you have a tool for reading knock or timing pull?
Does the 16v have a knock sensor that helps control timing? Does it have a knock sensor at all? This is very important to me and i cant find any info on it.
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I'm only have NB O2 setup, will be running the MegaSquirt II
with boost spark retard. As far as I know the 16V OBDII system
doesn't have a knock sensor. I have no way of reading the advance
on the old TBI system, just backed off the dizzy until the knock
went away, not very precise, but it's what I had to work with.
A/F ratio is hard to set with a NB O2, but I was running slight
rich, I guess about 13:1, and should of been closer to 12:1-
or 12.5:1
I don't think you can go 12 PSI boost, 9 is high for the stock
CR of 9.?:1 8V is supposed to be 9.1:1 The next engine is
getting forged pistons 8.3-8.5:1 CR and should take 10 PSI
no problem with the right fuel curve
You MUST run an Intercooler, no amount of fuel
worked to keep the knock away.
You should see some of the carnage pics, the one
piston has a "worm hole" in it, goes from the top
down and out the second ring land, ate up the almost
the whole ring and blew the metal into the oil, where it
wiped out the oil pump and the rod bearings/journals
well you know where it goes from there.
Wild
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13:1 is very lean for a boosted motor :o.
I will shoot for somewhere between 11:1 to 12:1 on 93 octane. On race gas i could run more timing or a leaner mixture, its all about compromise. The only way to get an accurate A/F ratio reading is with a wideband, a narrowband is not precise at all.
The problem with detonation under boost is that it is bad before you can hear it and terrible once you can. To be on the safe side, I will try to find a way to install a sensor that can tell me the knock levels.
IMO a turbo on a gas motor without an intercooler is almost useless, its so inefficient.
Good luck with the new setup it sounds like a winner. I'll just play with mine till i get it where i want it.
8.5:1 CR tried and true on DSMs. I ran 11.80s |removethispart|@119-122mph in a 3100 lbs car with 26 PSI on a 60-1 turbo, factory cast pistons 8.5:1 CR too. The 4g63 6-bolt bottom end is very strong to start with.
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Ok i have a question for you turbo pps, what is a life spann for a turbo/super-charged motor with stock pistons saying that the motor starts with about 20k on it and perfect compression.
its already snapy with just a short ram, i just want to give it a little bit more for the tires i am putting on it, i was thinking of a belt driven system, maby with an AC clutch so i could turn it on or off so it would not be running under boost all the time and i only want to go to about 3 or 4 psi. i think any more then that i may have to invest in good year. seeing as i can get it to smoke the tires on a dry day and have learned to drive sidways in the rain. I am putting a larger exhaust on in the anticipation of bolting the charger on
so how much boost can i run, how do you calculate that to pully size - and what am i likely to do to the motor?
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Pulley driven would be a supercharger,
and the one that comes to mind is Paxton.
Boost wise, on stock pistons 5 psi, about
a 30-40% increase in power, might be more
your mileage may vary, not applicable where
taxed ....................
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Ok well if i can go to 5 i think i will shoot for 3.5 to 4 - so what is the math to calculate the pully size? i know it depends on drive pully rotational speed to impeller rotational speed -
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And the swept volume of the impellers,
and the efficiency of the blower, and
the type of blower, and the .............
Get the SuperCharger, and it's specs,
then we can nail down details
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OK i will call around for priceing, now for what i am looking to run just about any 4 cyl pully driven charger will work right, i have read up on the SC14 verry common - however avalibility and price will judge what u buy, i am going to look for a small charger, when i find it and get a bracket made to bold it on I will post to figure out the pully sizes and then go bribe my buddy to get a pully turned out.