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ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: magiccat on February 15, 2006, 08:57:29 AM
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this is is probally a dumb idea
anyway's
I would like to achieve enough lift to accomidate 31's without fender trimming.
Heres the dumb part. I have accsess to a 84 jeep wagoner. I haven't had the time to see what kind of susupension setup it has. But if it has coils can I swap them into a 94 2dr sidekick and get 2-2.5 inches of lift. Any advise or help would be great. thank you. I was possibly considering a solid axle swap usuing the wagoneer axle. Would this woork, or am I just dreaming.
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Don't know about the jeep coils..
But, according to the width of the tires you get, and the offset of the wheels, I doubt you will get the tires to not rub without either fender trimming or a body lift.
'
I have 31x11.50's on mine, with a 2-2 1/2 " suspension lift, and LOTS of trimming, mostly in the front.. I have a small backspace, so I had to pound the floorboards back quite a bit.. I hate body lifts, but that would have solved most of my clearance issues..
Go ahead and trim it.. it's not that bad!! LOL
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Wagoneers are drivers side drop, Trackers are passenger side drop. Then depends on what Wagoneer you have, Full Size Grand Wagoneer or a smaller XJ Wagoneer. Both of them have junk front axles, the Grand Wagoneers in 83/84 had a vacuum disconect D44 and the XJ Wagoneer had a Vacuum Disco D30. Some Grands came without the Vacuum Disconect in 1984 if you have a late production.
Theres a lot of info that goes into the axles. Lemme know which Wagoneer you have and I'll let ya know.
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thanks for the info and help. What do you mean by passenger side droop vrs. driver side droop? Can I still use the wagoner coils to achieve lift? or will they be way to stiff for the sidekick? Thank you. Oh I still do'nt have all the info on the wagoner yet sorry.
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thanks for the info and help. What do you mean by passenger side droop vrs. driver side droop? Can I still use the wagoner coils to achieve lift? or will they be way to stiff for the sidekick? Thank you. Oh I still do'nt have all the info on the wagoner yet sorry.
Drop... not droop, two different things.
What he is referring to is the side of the vehicle that the transfer case, and subsequently the driveshafts fore and aft, are on. A Wagoneer has it's Transfer case on the Drivers side, and the driveshafts "drop" from it, to the axles... SO.. if you try to axles with the pinions offset to the drives side, under a vehicle that has it's transfer case on the passenger side.. your driveshaft would have to cross over the vehicle to get to the axle.. just don't work.... see? You have to look for axles that have the differential offset to the same side as your Transfer case.
A trackers TC is inline to the rear, but the front "drops" off the passenger side, to the front axle.. so any axle you transplant as a SAS, will have to have the pumpkin offset to the passenger side of the vehicle...
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you will need at least 4" of lift on a trackick to clear 31's. you can go 2 & 2 or 1 & 3.
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b27/derek_j/IMG_1549.jpg)
thats what mine looks like with a 2 and 2 lift.
derek
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The question was about the Jeep springs, the
answer is not for the front, the rear would be
a little stiff, and the sprind end is a little big
You need a very strong spring for the front,
45o PSI/Inch is stock, and you would need
about a 500-550 PSI to get a lift, or some
spring spacers and a strut mount flip.
Wild
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you will need at least 4" of lift on a trackick to clear 31's. you can go 2 & 2 or 1 & 3.
([url]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b27/derek_j/IMG_1549.jpg[/url])
thats what mine looks like with a 2 and 2 lift.
derek
or 2" suspension lift and trimming... (trimming isn't a bad thing) IMO it's a better solution than a body lift, but it will be hard to find people that agree with me.. LOL.. I like keeping my CoG (center of gravity) as low as possible..
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the wife would have gotten mad if i took the sawzall to the fenders on the truck ;D - being that it is her truck
derek
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The front coils from a down sized Jeep will work very well in the rear of a Track/Kick with a couple small tweeks. They will however give approx 5 inches of lift. The ride from them is actually quite soft.
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So if you got 5 in. of lift in the rear, would you have to make a spacer for the hemi joint? What could you do to the front to level it out. Spacers , strut spacer or mount flip? When you get longer coils do you also have to get longer shocks? I'm thinking about getting 1.5 coil spacers and doing the front strut mount flip. any pics or info on the strut mount flip would help. It'll be a while before I have enough for wheels and tires. I have 245/70/15 wild country at's with a lot of tread left on them. yes they do rub. I want to to tow the wagoner home and see what I can salvage from it. But I'm under the impression that I cant' use the springs in the front. And differential is on the wrong side for a track kick. Thanks everybody for the help. THis saved me a lot of trail and error.
oh how much was the bds 2'' suspension lift quaddog? Does it ride smooth? Thanks
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or 2" suspension lift  and trimming...  (trimming isn't a bad thing) IMO it's a better solution than a body lift, but it will be hard to find people that agree with me.. LOL.. I like keeping my CoG (center of gravity) as low as possible..
Funny, I alway thought suspension lifts heightened your COG more than body lifts, seeing as how you're raising the engine and frame along with the rest.....
I think the cheapest way to fit 31's is to do a 3" body lift and some fender trimming. After, you could add another 1" - 2" with coil spacers.
Kinda off topic, but has anyone heard using Chevette coils in the rear will give 3" lift?
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or 2" suspension lift  and trimming...  (trimming isn't a bad thing) IMO it's a better solution than a body lift, but it will be hard to find people that agree with me.. LOL.. I like keeping my CoG (center of gravity) as low as possible..
Funny, I alway thought suspension lifts heightened your COG more than body lifts, seeing as how you're raising the engine and frame along with the rest.....
I think the cheapest way to fit 31's is to do a 3" body lift and some fender trimming. After, you could add another 1" - 2" with coil spacers.
Kinda off topic, but has anyone heard using Chevette coils in the rear will give 3" lift?
I think he was saying that hed rather do some fender trimming than a body lift to keep it lower
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or 2" suspension lift  and trimming...  (trimming isn't a bad thing) IMO it's a better solution than a body lift, but it will be hard to find people that agree with me.. LOL.. I like keeping my CoG (center of gravity) as low as possible..
Funny, I alway thought suspension lifts heightened your COG more than body lifts, seeing as how you're raising the engine and frame along with the rest.....
I think the cheapest way to fit 31's is to do a 3" body lift and some fender trimming. After, you could add another 1" - 2" with coil spacers.
Kinda off topic, but has anyone heard using Chevette coils in the rear will give 3" lift?
I think he was saying that hed rather do some fender trimming than a body lift to keep it lower
thanks,, yeah that is exactly what I was saying.. the ONLY two advatages of a body lift is tire clearance, and getting the rockers out of the way.. I have solved both problems without a body lift.
There are MANY detrimental aspects of a body lift.. CoG, strength, safety, wire,hoses, all sorts of stuff.. I just think that many people put body lifts on because of the "look" of a lifted truck, when in reality you aren't gaining anything but clearance and a "look" and because everybody else at the mall is doing it....
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Kinda off topic, but has anyone heard using Chevette coils in the rear will give 3" lift?
Chevette coils will usually give about 2.5" but the spring rate is stiff at 197 PPI. If you use TJ springs and plan to cut them down just remember that coil springs become stiffer with each cut you make. Here is the formula
(G x WxWxWxW) / (8 x N x DxDxD) = Rate ppi
G= Torsional Modulus of steel 11.25 x 10 to the sixth power, W=Wire Diameter in Inches
N=Number of Active Coils, D=Mean Coil Diameter in Inches, 8=A Constant for all Coil Springs
I just got a set of springs from Boodox for my wifes Kick. They gave me 2.5" front and 3" rear. Nice and soft too. About same spring rate as OEM. A kit relocates the upper mount on the rear axle to allow those springs and the longer travel shocks to cycle. Looks like a good set-up. Haven't tried it out off-road yet.
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the ONLY two advatages of a body lift is tire clearance, and getting the rockers out of the way..
Also good for more engine and tunnel clearance when you are putting that big block in there ;D
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Maybe I missed it somewhere above but if not I just want to point out that Wagoneers used leaf springs.
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Maybe I missed it somewhere above but if not I just want to point out that Wagoneers used leaf springs.
Yea I was also gonna say that One of the guys I go Wheeling with has a 1973 Wagoneer and a 1991 Grand Wagoneer and both are leaf-sprung
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They made an XJ Wagoneer in 1984 guys...  I am pretty sure it was coils.. They also made the big wagoneers, leaf sprung that year too...
actually, 84 was the first year that the smaller XJ (what they now call the Cherokee) Wagoneer was introduced.. the big Wagoneer was called the Grand Wagoneer from 1984 on..
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They made an XJ Wagoneer in 1984 guys... I am pretty sure it was coils.. They also made the big wagoneers, leaf sprung that year too...
actually, 84 was the first year that the smaller XJ (what they now call the Cherokee) Wagoneer was introduced.. the big Wagoneer was called the Grand Wagoneer from 1984 on..
Yep. '84-90 Cherokee, Commanche, Grand Cherokee & Wagoneer all used the same front coil springs. They had different spring rates depending on what engine, etc. The rear was leafs. These coil springs are about an inch wider in diameter and over 5" taller than a TracKick rear springs. Too light a spring rate for the front IFS. The heaviest spring is about the right rate for the rear but too tall unless the front IFS is dropped or swapped.
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http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,8826.0.html
http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,10342.0.html
http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/topic,8825.0.html
hope these help
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I agree with QuadDawg about body lifts. Just get sliders and hammer in the fenders and there ya go. All the benefits of body lifts, but with no disadvantages as with body lifts
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you will need at least 4" of lift on a trackick to clear 31's. you can go 2 & 2 or 1 & 3.
([url]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b27/derek_j/IMG_1549.jpg[/url])
thats what mine looks like with a 2 and 2 lift.
derek
i went 3" suspension on my 90 tracker and put 31s on it with no trimming and no rubbing
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/bigblock460/2888dce1.jpg)
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you will need at least 4" of lift on a trackick to clear 31's. you can go 2 & 2 or 1 & 3.
([url]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b27/derek_j/IMG_1549.jpg[/url])
thats what mine looks like with a 2 and 2 lift.
derek
I have a friend with a calmini 3 inch lift and 31's on his 4 door kick and I think his front tires just barely touch the tops of the fenders in the front when he is fully flexed. I think he clears in the back and he doesn't rub when he turns.. just thought you all may want to know. He does want a little more lift, he may do a small body lift and/or add a small spacer lift to it. zuks are so freaking tiny stock.. I would know, I drive a stocker and I want to change that