ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: mudfkr on December 04, 2004, 07:10:33 AM
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I'm sick of wearing brake shoes out from all the river crossing I do as the small stones get in and tear them to bits so I'm going to convert mine to disk ;D here's the hard wear to start it the project....
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/slider 013.jpg)
Solid front Escudo disk with some customized venting and 92' Nissan bluebird rear calipers with hand brake actuators.
My plan is to machine the rear drum down so I still have the studs to mount the disk on and mount the caliper off the four bolts on the end of the axle housing.
Shane
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If you do a lot of river crossing then why did you get the rotors with holes in them? rocks like holes.
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Some reason it's not a problem with the disk's the stones don't seem to get stuck in them ??? With the drums once there in they don't seem to come back out.
I've run them on the front before and I have a mate with a Sammy running them on all fours corners with no problems.
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That looks like an awesome project, bro!
I would love nothing more then to upgrade my rear drums to discs. The extra stopping power and good looks are reason enough for me...just the massive cost is holding me back since I would have to get a custom shop to do it for me. :(
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I think this is the way the conversion
kits are made, and for all you readers
a Nissan Bluebird is called a Maxima in
the US, a good donor for parts, as they
will be easily available at any autoparts
store no matter where you are wheeling
Ohh and if you can find the later model
rear axles, they have a flange with 5 lugs
pressed in to it, might not take as much
fabrication that way, off with the drums
and on with the disks
Wild
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I think this is the way the conversion
kits are made, and for all you readers
a Nissan Bluebird is called a Maxima in
the US, a good donor for parts, as they
will be easily available at any autoparts
store no matter where you are wheeling
Ohh and if you can find the later model
rear axles, they have a flange with 5 lugs
pressed in to it, might not take as much
fabrication that way, off with the drums
and on with the disks
Wild
Hey Wild I've never noticed those 5 lug axles, I might take a look for some at the dismantlers.
I decided on Bluebird calipers after a few hours of scouring the dismantlers looking for a suitable donor.
The big problem I found is that most cars have way smaller rear disk compared to the zooks front which meant I couldn't get enough pad to cover the disk and the ones that had big rear disk ran a separate small drum hand brake inside the disk ???
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Hmm, I'll have to look closley at the Maxima/Blubird
calipers, I was going to use a set of those too, tho
I was going to build a full floater rear axle from a pair
of front spindles and rotors, even use a lockout hub
for trail damage towing, or just 2 wheel street towing
like behind a motorhome or on a tow dolly.
The Bluebird is a heavy car, as small/mid size
cars go, so I'm sure there will be plenty of
stopping power in those calipers
Send Pics :) I'd like to see how it comes out
Wild
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Gidday Shane,
I'll be keen to see how yours works out. I'm looking at using Samurai/Sierra fronts with Nissan Skyline/Pintara calipers for my conversion. I've swapped my standard lwb vented fronts for some slotted vented fronts and braided lines. Apart from the fact that drums suck I've found since swapping from OME to Calmini suspension the softer spring rate causes the nose to dive under heavy braking unweighting the rear causing it to lockup easier.
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i do a lot of mud and water driving where i am. i've never had my rear brakes lock up under any situation, even off road. and now its worse, cos i dont have any rear brakes now, my drums have decided to seize and not work anymore.
i want to convert to discs, but i can't seem to get my head around the cost. i can get sierra brakes and hubs, but how will i mount them on the rear?
i've had a look at the possibilities, but either way, the best way is to get a bracket machined/made up to hold the calipers and the axle in.
can you guys, more so shane, keep us updated and also, a rough cost guide to how and what you use.
thanks
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The Bluebird is a heavy car, as small/mid size
cars go, so I'm sure there will be plenty of
stopping power in those calipers
Thats basically what I was thinking too, I looked at a few Mazda 323 GT and Toyota FX Corollas ricer models which had good size disk but very small calipers so I decided a big car like the Bluebird.
CJ,
Skyline calipers won't work if you want to keep your hand brake as they have the small drum inside the disk to actuate the Handbrake, way too much work to make all that fit!. I looked at an 92ish Skyline and was eying up the four pots then discovered the drum handbrake :'(
I'm still a way off getting it running again, I've installed the Calmini 3", should be putting the 4:24's in this week (and center-force clutch from Calmini) as well as finish the rock sliders, move the winch back (as it too protrusive according to the certifier) finish the disk conversion and then wait for Calmini to send 5:83s and an Anvil over which is 4 weeks away seems they have no stock :'(
Skid,
Sierra's front calipers won't give you a hand brake option either which I need on mine to get a warrant of fitness to stay road worthy. You could use them IF you don't want a hand brake but I think even a full off roader needs one anyway.
One other option if you don't need to have a mechanical h/brake would be to put line lockers in your system, then you'd put your foot on the brake pedal pressurize the system and hit the switch. I'm going to add this system as well in mine.
Total cost of my conversion so far:
front Escudo rotors $ 30 each (all thou this is a from a mate :-X) Rear Bluebird Calipers $30 each.
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From a fabrication point of view, it only
makes sence to use a caliper with a hand
brake built in, it's a better setup too, remember
the rocks in the old drums caused problems,
what's to keep them out of the parking drums ?
The question I have is can I use the SideKick/Vitara
cables or do I need to get the Maxima/bluebird
ones and fit them to the hand brake ?
If they are longer it might work out better
for a long travel rear suspension
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Shane,
The Skyline setup is what someone here is using and they offered to help me out to do mine. Haven't actually looked at them myself. hopefully I'll see him this week and find out more. I know of a Suzuki workshop here who has been using Pintara or Corolla calipers in their conversions. Going to be over your way next week and going to do some river sledging while I'm there 8)
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Wild,
Either way with the cables I don't think it's going to be too bigger issue. Part of my choice with the Bluebird calipers was the fact that the ends are just a loop that fits over a hook, not to hard to fudge some thing up and get it crimped to the Escudo cables ;)
I won't rule out using the Blue bird cables yet thou just in case as you said they could be longer.
CJ,
Let me know what/how he's running it, I'd be interested to know. Were abouts over here are you coming too, any were near me in Napier ??
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CJ,
Let me know what/how he's running it, I'd be interested to know. Were abouts over here are you coming too, any were near me in Napier ??
I'll let you know.
Not Napier this time. Hopefully I'll be spending most of my time on a boat, maybe Great Barrier Island or the Mercury Islands. The river sledging will be on the Rangitaiki River I think, just a day trip. Next time I come down to Havelock it'd be good to meet.
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I'll let you know.
Not Napier this time. Hopefully I'll be spending most of my time on a boat, maybe Great Barrier Island or the Mercury Islands. The river sledging will be on the Rangitaiki River I think, just a day trip. Next time I come down to Havelock it'd be good to meet.
Yeah for sure,
if you think your guna get down this way at some stage let me know and I'll Pm ya some contact details. May be get together for a few beers and a bull Sh!t session. ;D
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One problem I found with my rear disk conversion (Ford Probe calipers) is the handbrake lever ratio is different. The handbrake comes up 11 notches before the brake holds. It needs a longer end on the handbrake lever to give it some more pull. Another issue is that the bigger calipers need more fluid to push them, that means more pedal travel. You can get a valve from Wilwood that holds a little pressure in the calipers If you turn down the drums to make adpaters then you need longer studs. The front studs aren't long enough so you'll have to source some longer ones - make sure the shoulder is long enough or the discs won't locate properly. The stock drums are made of cheese so you may find that once you've knocked the studs out the holes left will be too loose to take new studs so you have to either drill out the holes and fit slightly oversize studs or weld the studs in place
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For anyone considering this kind of project in the states (perhaps abroad as well) the ford Taurus in the mid 90's with the rear disc brakes would be an excellent donor. I have a '95 taurus and the rear calipers have the built in parking brake lever, are a simple 2 pin slide mount and take a rather beefy pad. The rotors are solid, non vented, and are about 11" in diameter with 5 stud holes.
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Wrong stud spacing, but I think a project
like this would use the front rotors of a Track/Kick.
I have 2 pair of front 2 door rotors, and 1 pair
of calipers from the front also, which were left
over from my 4 door caliper swap.
The front disks from a Track/Kick measure 11-1/4"
which would make the caliper fit good, but the back
of these little trucklets is so light, I don't know if
that big of a caliper is a good idea, after all a rear
lockup in a vehicle that short means a spin in a
heart beat.
Wild
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I have a spare set of vented fronts of my lwb that I swapped out for the new slotted rotors. My problem is the front end dive with the Calmini 3" causing the rears to lock. I need to get some balance back when I go to rear discs.
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Don't you have a proportioning valve ???
If you do it needs to be reset to the
propper height to stop this lockup problem.
This is one reason I built the rear spacer
for the A-link, now I know that it's better
to wheel with too, as I get 24" of wheel
lift before the opposite side leaves the
ground 8)
Wild
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the problem with using front rotors on the rear is, of course, lack of a parking brake. However, to combat that problem you could always go with a hydraulic line lock, just a thought ;)
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Or rather the caliper, the rotor it's self
has no parking feature, it's just a disk.
Wild
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For anyone considering this kind of project in the states (perhaps abroad as well) the ford Taurus in the mid 90's with the rear disc brakes would be an excellent donor. I have a '95 taurus and the rear calipers have the built in parking brake lever, are a simple 2 pin slide mount and take a rather beefy pad. The rotors are solid, non vented, and are about 11" in diameter with 5 stud holes.
very good idea, too bad the Taurus is a 5 on 4 1/2? (can't be 5 on 5 1/2) whats got 5 on 5 1/2 bolt patteren with rear disks? Explorer is 5 on 4 1/2. what was the lincoln that had disk brakes on a 9in in the rear? somthing like versile
stu
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I meant calipers not rotors  :-[
I sold auto parts for a few years, the wide 5 bolt patten is pretty much restricted to general motors products, nissans, older AMC and Jeep vehicles, and dodge pickups.
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and ford pick ups! ;D and suzukis :P
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Your best bet is to use the front Kick
rotors on the rear with some machining
to get them to fit, then swap a caliper that
has a hand brake built in, rotors aren't the
problem, it's the caliper that needs to be
worked out.
Nissan Maxima or Bluebird for you Downunder
blokes, is a good swap, the right size and is
a Tokiko made (read OEM supplier) so you
could claim the rear disk setup is Suzuki Factory
equipment ;)
Wild
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Well as I can't wheel my POS at the moment I decided to do some work on the disk brake set up tonight.
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/disc 004.jpg)
I machined the old drum to mount the disk on, I need a bigger lathe as the drum only just fitted ::)
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/disc 006.jpg)
I need to cut the old backing plate up to go between the gap you see here or have a look at finding another way around it - I didn't really look to hard at it tonight :P
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/disc 008.jpg)
Heres were I'll probably mount the caliper, I'm thinking that way it will give me the most out of hand brake cable and chances are most of the crap that gets in the caliper will naturally want to fall out.
I had a bit*h of a time trying to wind the hand brake actuator back in the caliper tonight to get it over the disk freakin POS was frozen solid, like 1.5 hrs of pi$$ing around with it and I had to pull it right to bits. Now I think I stuffed some thing up in the order I put back together cause the adjuster isn't working right.
Sooooo I had to walk away before I threw my toys outa the cot ;D I'll start over again in the morning and she'll be all right ;)
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ok, i'm trying to follow this build and all the advice and info in here, but different people from different continents are saying different things.
i got the info about using blue bird or maxima calipers, good. i can get a set of front rotors off a 3dr vit. well, i think i have a set in the store room. cant remember.
but this is where i get stuck/confused! Shane from NZ has machined his drums to....
... fit inside the disc rotors, and the drum studs go through the disc. right?
now what about the axle falling out? i think some people call it the backing plate? what would i do here? will it need to be a custom fab job? or is there something existing i can use?
i've seen a rear disc conversion kit, costs way too much, but this 'backing plate' that holds the axle in, also is the mount for the caliper.
so i guess the caliper mount needs to be a custom fabbed job as well.
i think thats all, i'm not sure if there is anything else that is involved, but i will be following Shane's build and this thread closely.
Thanks.
Steve
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The backing plate holds the drum brake
wheel cylinders, and the shoes in place,
it does not hold the axle in, there are 4
bolts and a small cup, about the size of the
axle tube that holds the bearing into the
end of the axle housing, the bearing is
pressed onto the axle shaft.
You will need to fabricate caliper mounts,
I would bolt them to the back side of the
axle housing flange, make it a 2 bolt bracket
that will fit over the axle tube, should be of 1/4
to 3/8 plate (8-10mm) I would go with 10 mm
I think, you could also weld the caliper bracket
on if you never plan on going back to drums
Wild
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Sikid, what some do is torch the brake drum backing plate down real small so it is just bigger than the four small bolts holding the axel in so the axel would never know that it is not there!
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just a side note,my buddies run rear disk brakes on there samurai's, when they turn the drivers side rotor hits the bracket holding the caliper, we changed out the old bearing while doing so we noticed it did not feel bad,while in the 12 ton press the axel bowed like two inches or more so we got a small propane torch and heated the bearing just a little and off she came, installed the new one took it for a run and it did the same thing,out came the jack and we lifted the driver rear(long axel)and I grabbed hold of the 33" tire and flexed it real hard by hand and my buddie could see the rotor flex alot, maybe not as bad a problem on the kicks but just maybe the same axel material, so I would look at putting a smaller caliper on(wilwood spot caliper?) or grinding the pad down on the ends with a grinder but keeping the sharp edge so that when the axel flexes it won't be moving the pads back so much? even the residule valve a 2lb or 7 lb would not hold it nor would you want to, you could reposition your caliper mount to the type of driving that you do to minimize the flex say a 9 or 3 oclock or a 10 or 2 oclock or even a 12 oclock, you can bleed them off of the rotor by placing a steel plate between the pads, just my 2 cent's.
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Would a complete bolt on conversion in the $300. range suit the ticket.. Stay tuned
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What would be cool for sammie owners is a rear disk setup that could be used for yj springs and have the parking brake option on the calipers!
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Would a complete bolt on conversion in the $300. range suit the ticket.. Stay tuned
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Sure, why not? ;D
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What would be cool for sammie owners is a rear disk setup that could be used for yj springs and have the parking brake option on the calipers!
Caddy caliper and a kick parking break cable.. It doesnt matter what spring you use yj cj or stock zuk
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Trail tough sells one but said that the subaru calipers would hit the yj springs, or something like that? are the caddy's diffrent?
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http://www.rhinoman.org/
http://www.rhinoman.org/mods/rear_discs.html
Rear Disc Conversion
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A common problem with a lot of offroaders is the fitment of rear drum brakes, in muddy and sandy terrain the ingress of gritty particles can wear the shoes down to the metal in just a couple of hours of driving. Not a good thing if you have to drive your vehicle to and from off road sites. As there was no conversion on the market that allowed the handbrake to be retained I had planned to make my own. However Jon Gilbert aka SuzukiJon had the same idea so I offered up my vehicle for design purposes.
The conversion whilst it might seem quite straightforward took two of us a good few days of work to get sorted and has since evolved a bit more. There are a few details that maybe not immediately obvious required a good deal of thought and prototyping. As this is the first commercially available kit I have agreed not to reveal those details (if you can convince me you aren't UK based I may let you know what they are if you mail me). The conversion uses Suzuki SJ discs and Ford Sierra calipers, the calipers have a built in handbrake mechanism.
First stage was to strip off the old drums, pull the halfshafts and remove the backplates. The studs were knocked out of the backplates and the plates were then cut down to use as spacers to ensure that the wheel bearings were correctly clamped.
The caliper mounting brackets went through at least a dozen revisions before they were deemed satisfactory. They are constructed from 3 pieces of thick steel plate and had to be welded on a jig to ensure that the caliper would fit absolutely square to the disc to avoid uneven pad wear and chatter. Bolts are fitted through from the rear and the bracket is spaced just enough to clear the 'dish' on the bearing retainer. This design allows 4 mounting points to be utilised for strength.
Disc mounting plate is a turned down drum. For a tidy conversion the correct type of Vitara drum must be sourced or more machining is required. Wheel studs were sourced by Jon, it is essential that these are of the correct dimensions or the disc will not locate properly.
As can be seen in the first picture the disc is held in place by the wheel studs. Jon has a fairly simple method for modifying the handbrake cable to suit the Ford calipers. Thats pretty much it for mine so far. The second conversion has already been performed on Nick Ingram's Vitara, Nick has opted to add a proportioning valve to the braking system and reports a much improved feel to the brake pedal so I'll add one of those to my shopping list as mine are a little spongy. I'll update this page when thats been done.
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Looks good if I don't go with d44's out back I may write you a letter to get that info.
(http://www.rhinoman.org/mods/images/rdisc01.jpg)
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Looks good if I don't go with d44's out back I may write you a letter to get that info.
([url]http://www.rhinoman.org/mods/images/rdisc01.jpg[/url])
That's not safarikicks site, btw.
I think the biggest thing holding me back is the caliper mounting braket. If I had dimesions for one, I think I could cobble something together that would work ok. The swap seems simple enough, with the bracket and turning the drums down being the major hold back.
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Sweet set up. Looks like it should have been factory
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Well as I can't wheel my POS at the moment I decided to do some work on the disk brake set up tonight.
([url]http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/disc[/url] 004.jpg)
I machined  the old drum to mount the disk on, I need a bigger lathe as the drum only just fitted  ::)
([url]http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/disc[/url] 006.jpg)
I need to cut the old backing plate up to go between the gap you see here or have a look at finding another way around it - I didn't really look to hard at it tonight  :P
([url]http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/disc[/url] 008.jpg)
Heres were I'll probably mount the caliper, I'm thinking that way it will give me the most out of hand brake cable and chances are most of the crap that gets in the caliper will naturally want to fall out.
I had a bit*h of a time trying to wind the hand brake actuator back in the caliper tonight to get it over the disk freakin POS was frozen solid, like  1.5 hrs of pi$$ing around with it and I had to pull it right to bits. Now I think I stuffed some thing up in the order I put back together cause the adjuster isn't working right.
Sooooo I had to walk away before I threw my toys outa the cot  ;D I'll start over again in the morning and she'll be all right  ;)
Just wondering if theres an update or any more progress on this?
cheers.
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Just wondering if theres an update or any more progress on this?
cheers.
Steve,
I've been working on other stuff like a new rear bumper design to match the front possibly with an Exo cage too so thats slowed the disks brake slowject down a bit but I should be back onto it Mondayish ;D.
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If the caliper is upright it may not clear the spring, its not very clear in the pic above). We mounted mine forward (see pic above) because there was plenty of room for it. Most cars seem to have the caliper mounted behind. I spent a lot of time staring at the rear wheels of other cars to see where there calipers were. Porsches and a few others have theirs at the front too so I guess it maybe OK  :D Incidently the tool on the ground is the one for winding the pistons in ;D ;D
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Hi shane,
is there any more progress on this yet? if not, its ok.
i'm starting to get very serious with doing a rear disc.
i found some discs and calipers at the wreckers, off a late model car, dont know what car though. has a 5 stud bolt pattern, but still unknown. it is the rear suspension assmeble, and is front wheel drive.
the rear discs are 25cm Outer Diameter, and the hub section is about 18cm accross. the disc is unusable, but maybe the caliper is. there is a provision for the hand brake, but there is no actual hand brake cable.
it also had a speed sensor, maybe for abs? wires were cut. it was ripped out of a totalled wreck.
i just want to know if this caliper would fit a vitara disc? i haven't measured my discs yet, as i can't remove the front wheels at the moment.
or even a sierra disc.
i am looking into doing it the way you have planned, but still unsure about machining costs.
for the caliper mount, can i just make up a bracket out of 10mm steel plate? and bolt it to the 4 bolts on the end of the housing as you said?
or is there more measuring and matching?
i really want to get started on this, but haven't got the parts to start.
thanks a heap,
Steve
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You need to make sure that the calipers you use are suited to the thickness of the disc as well as the diameter. You don't want the pistons travelling past the seals.
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So why couldn't you use Spidertrax Wilwood Caliper mounts, http://www.spidertrax.com/brakes_wcm.htm
and Wilwood Calipers (oh, no parking brake levers...)
http://www.spidertrax.com/brakes_wil.htm
(http://www.spidertrax.com/brakes_wcm1.jpg)
(http://www.spidertrax.com/brakes_wil2.jpg)
(http://www.spidertrax.com/brakes_wil1.jpg)
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thanks rhinoman, i will be looking at thicknesses also.
and as for the spidertrax gear, thems some bling bling calipers and mounts. probably would be the most valuable thing on my vit if i got them. too bling for me. i just something to pull me up with out being beat by the mud.
thanks guys
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How where the stock lines for the front calipers adapted to the rear lines??
I'm runnin into a snag here. Might take the existing rubber lines, cut off the end without the banjo fitting and have a shop crimp on the adapter I need.
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cheif, this was the original idea when i looked at the fittings. theres no other way that i know of or have come accross, other than to get custom lines made up.
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I had steel braided lines made up. Over here most motorcycle shops will do custom lines and keep metric fittings.
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Sikid,
No updates from me - I've been to busy with my 2nd job to even look at Mudfkr, however this is about to change as my Anvil and 5.83 arrived yesterday and front ARB will be here Tuesday so work will have to wait until Mudfkr is rolling again ;D
Pity those wilwooods don't have a hand brake on them they'd make a sweet set up.
I'll update you once I get back into it.
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Hi Shane, have you looked at the Mitsubishi Magna TE, TH, or TJ rear disc and caliper setup? It was suggested to me the other day as it has a handbrake and the discs are to suit a 14" wheel so clearance should be OK. The guy was saying that it comes with a caliper mounting plate so the calipers would be in the right position for the discs and it may be possible to adapt it to the Vit. The wagon and the sedan have different sized pistons in the calipers and he reckoned the wagon calipers would be about right. The other plus is I can get the discs pulled of the production line at any stage and have final maching done to suit. Just something else to throw into the mix.
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Hi Shane, have you looked at the Mitsubishi Magna TE, TH, or TJ rear disc and caliper setup? It was suggested to me the other day as it has a handbrake and the discs are to suit a 14" wheel so clearance should be OK. The guy was saying that it comes with a caliper mounting plate so the calipers would be in the right position for the discs and it may be possible to adapt it to the Vit. The wagon and the sedan have different sized pistons in the calipers and he reckoned the wagon calipers would be about right. The other plus is I can get the discs pulled of the production line at any stage and have final maching done to suit. Just something else to throw into the mix.
I looked at all sorts of calipers before deciding to go with the Nissan ones but can't remember if I seen any Magna ones. The Nissan ones should work out fine I just need to find some time to get on to it.
I pulled the drums off yesterday so I can get the 3RD out for the 5.83 install this week ( ;D) and the new shoes with less than 15 hours wheeling are 50% worn :(
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shane, i was told by just about everyone i've asked about the nissan calipers, and they have said that they are a bad design and seize constantly. thats with normal road use with no mud and water and durt.
but come to think of it, it is only the older model nissans, such as the pintara, R30 and R31 skylines, and bluebirds, if you could find them.
i found a very good caliper, and just about perfect, its off a KF ford laser TX3. also, a newer proton sedan has a very similar rear caliper, so may look into those.
although, i may be wrong, as you've been looking into this for some time now.
cheers
Steve
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I might have found another option, Suzuki and said to be bolt in ;)...
Off of a Suzuki swift GTI, rear Kick/Vit discs, machined back to 240 mm's instead of 290 mm (9 1/4 inch instead of 11 1/4 inch). thickness is the same. If you get the calliper mount off off the swift it would bolt right on (still have to try this). But I'm about to order the parts from the Junkyard ;) and see how it turns out.....
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The Swift calipers have been used for a few SJ conversions over here. The kits all come with custom made brackets. The only difference between the Vit and SJ mounting arrangements (AFAIK) is that the Vit has a bigger hole through the centre. When I was looking at doing a conversion myself I was told by someone who made an SJ kit that the Swift caliper wouldn't be man enough for the extra weight of the VIt. They could be wrong though, let us know how it turns out.
I should be receiving some LWB front calipers this week so I will be going over my brakes again soon, still leaning towards the Rover calipers.
I dug out my brake bleeding kit earlier, its been a while since I used it, lol:
(http://www.rhinoman.org/brakem03sm.jpg)
Two mice now looking for a new home. The little s*ds ate the instructions too!!
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I lied :-[ I'm a bad man, lol. The hole in the centre for the Vit/Track/Kick is smaller if it was bigger then we could have machined out the centre of an SJ conversion but we had to make new brackets instead ::).
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I think I'll have to have bracket's machined either way... Found out today that the distance of the outer diameter to the first step of getting thicker is the same on the swifts and vit, so that might mean that the brake pads will sit a little bit next to the disc...... dunno if that's such a good idea, but will get some callipers and pads to test before I say no ;)
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My rear disc swap id DONE.
Used the brackets from Trail Tough, have a line lock for my e-brake and still need a proportioning valve, but it's not THAT bad. The discs work GREAT, and I used a stock rubber line for a sammi caplier, and adapted a SS line to that. 8)
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My rear disc swap id DONE.
Used the brackets from Trail Tough, have a line lock for my e-brake and still need a proportioning valve, but it's not THAT bad. The discs work GREAT, and I used a stock rubber line for a sammi caplier, and adapted
a SS line to that. 8)
We hav eto have a mechanical ebrake over here. Why do you need the proportioning valve? Too much pedal travel or too much power in the rear brakes?
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We hav eto have a mechanical ebrake over here. Why do you need the proportioning valve? Too much pedal travel or too much power in the rear brakes?
Sucks on the e-brake. The more I drive it, the less I think I need one. The rear's are too strong. They lock up if I jab the peddle good.
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The rear's are too strong. They lock up if I jab the peddle good.
Thats what I was expecting from mine, thats what everyone seems to find when converting SJs. The Ford calipers just don't seem to work that well. Whats your pedal travel like? mine is OKish when the pads are good but as they wear the pedal goes a long way down, once the adjuster clicks over again it comes back up.
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Hi guys. Bit late in on this one but.....
Zeuszuki runs rear disk brakes. Used standard rear drums, machined the outer off to leave the inner 5 bolt set up for Sammy disks. Made a mount out of 8mm plate steel to bolt calipers to. Bolted this to the four drum brake backing plate on the end of the axle housing. Used Toyota MR2 calipers with mechanical handbrake. Handbrake is situated in the centre of the piston and acts on a cam via a cable.
Easy ;)
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Hi guys. Bit late in on this one but.....
Zeuszuki runs rear disk brakes. Used standard rear drums, machined the outer off to leave the inner 5 bolt set up for Sammy disks. Made a mount out of 8mm plate steel to bolt calipers to. Bolted this to the four drum brake backing plate on the end of the axle housing. Used Toyota MR2 calipers with mechanical handbrake. Handbrake is situated in the centre of the piston and acts on a cam via a cable.
Easy ;)
Hmmm, interesting gonna look into it! ;D
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Hi guys. Bit late in on this one but.....
Zeuszuki runs rear disk brakes. Used standard rear drums, machined the outer off to leave the inner 5 bolt set up for Sammy disks. Made a mount out of 8mm plate steel to bolt calipers to. Bolted this to the four drum brake backing plate on the end of the axle housing. Used Toyota MR2 calipers with mechanical handbrake. Handbrake is situated in the centre of the piston and acts on a cam via a cable.
Easy ;)
Hmmm, interesting gonna look into it! ;D
quickly searched for the diameter of the rear discs, much closer to the sammy/vit ones. Thanks for the tip! gonna try to get some of those ;)
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Hi oorklep.
Check out front Subaru calipers, 1980 -82 from memory. These calipers work to ;) The front ones only though :)
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Hi oorklep.
Check out front Subaru calipers, 1980 -82 from memory. These calipers work to ;) The front ones only though :)
Huh? Handbrake on the front wheels? That is one of the most important things for me, b'cause I need to have a mechanical hand brake >:( otherwise it would be easy ;)
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Hi guys. Bit late in on this one but.....
Zeuszuki runs rear disk brakes. Used standard rear drums, machined the outer off to leave the inner 5 bolt set up for Sammy disks. Made a mount out of 8mm plate steel to bolt calipers to. Bolted this to the four drum brake backing plate on the end of the axle housing. Used Toyota MR2 calipers with mechanical handbrake. Handbrake is situated in the centre of the piston and acts on a cam via a cable.
Easy ;)
Thats very similar to the way mine are done. You need replace the wheel studs with some that are both long enough to deal with the extra thickness of the disc and also have a long enough shoulder to locate the disc centrally. How well does his ebrake work and did he have to modify the ebrake cable?
Edit: Don't forget that the thickness of the disc is as important as the diameter.
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The rear's are too strong. They lock up if I jab the peddle good.
Thats what I was expecting from mine, thats what everyone seems to find when converting SJs. The Ford calipers just don't seem to work that well. Whats your pedal travel like? mine is OKish when the pads are good but as they wear the pedal goes a long way down, once the adjuster clicks over again it comes back up.
Peddle height is good. not as high as my tacoma, but alot higher then when rear drums are out of adjustment.
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Hi Rhino,
Yeah had to get the handbrake cable fitted with a different end to suit the calipers leaver. The local brake specialist did this for not much $. Works fine. Holds / pulls up ZeusZuki with 37's.
Interesting note: Here in NZ we call the "E" brake a "hand brake" because Suzukis are fitted with dual brake systems - independant front and rear hudraulic systems. This means that if you "pop" a line then the other end will still pull you up ;).
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Hi Rhino,
Yeah had to get the handbrake cable fitted with a different end to suit the calipers leaver. The local brake specialist did this for not much $. Works fine. Holds / pulls up ZeusZuki with 37's.
Interesting note: Here in NZ we call the "E" brake a "hand brake" because Suzukis are fitted with dual brake systems - independant front and rear hudraulic systems. This means that if you "pop" a line then the other end will still pull you up ;).
Same here in the US. Either the front and rear are seperated or like on front wheel drives the lines are crossed. The left front uses the same line off the master that the right rear does.
I thing the Emergency Brake came about when the cars only had one line coming off the Master cylinder for the whole car.
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proper term anymore is "parking brake" ...
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We call it a handbrake too, but the majority of people here are Americans ;D
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Emergency brake ;D
It really would have to be an emergency,
because it don't work for crap, I think dragging
your foot would work better
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May be of interest may not but this is what we did for a guy a few wks ago. Machined up the caliper bracket for stock zuk calipers and rotors. I know it does not solve the E-brake issue but hay. As stated above in an emergency are you realy gonna use it. LOL
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a102/rockfab/kimerasuspension032.jpg)
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a102/rockfab/kimerasuspension031.jpg)
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a102/rockfab/kimerasuspension043.jpg)
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Nice work. It reminds me of a adapter kit I got to us on my dune buggy for rear discs.
I use my E-brake all the time. It's another way you can brake, clutch, and gas at the same time.