ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: Quaddawg on March 13, 2006, 07:08:26 PM
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I got the 5.12 rear 3rd out, pulled the mini-spool and and installed it in my 5.62's.. gottem all set up and installed... (rear only today) Took about 2 hours, in my driveway, by my lonesome..
I took the little trucklet out and tried them out.. I was really amazed at the return of drivability! I wish I could have gotten 5.83's.... but all in all I am quite pleased with the returned power..
I am going to be driving this thing on the street more than I had planned, cause now it's a lot more fun.. accelerates much more like stock.. better than when I had 235's on it... haven't had it out on the freeway yet, but I am sure it will be much better.. if I can find my old police radar, I will see how close the speedo is.. with the original stock error, these should put it pretty darned close now... that will be nice!
I have always been a proponant of correcting the gearing at the diff first, after large tire installs, but I have always had big V8's to work with.. the difference working with this little powerplant is magnified... I highly recommend even just 5.62's if the 5.83 are not going to go back into production anytime soon.. it's a bit less than 10% total reduction... but it will pair up QUITE nicely with a set of TC gears... giving me an nice crawl ratio, and a 10% reduction in high, that I needed badly...
OK.... so... now... get the front done.... never did a front housing drop before... any hints or shortcuts???? I am aching to try low range to see how she pulls hills....
Crud.. I bet I could get 33's and it would still be tolerable... LOL......... WILL IT EVER END?!?!?!
Also I was comparing the ring gear on the 5.12's, and the 5.62's and realized that the lower gear HAD to be beefier.... since the pinon has few teeth, ie: is now smaller, the ring has to be thicker to move it towards the pinion.. the infamous picture of the XL7,track,sammi 3rd's has to be showing a 4.62 or something in the center pic..
Since all Trackicks have the same dimentions on the carriers (ie:no carrier split for gear ratios) the high ratios are going to have beefier pinions, and thinner rings, and the higher ratios (stock) 5.62 have nice beefy rings (substantially beefier than the 5.12's, and WAY beefier than 4.62's) BUT, you sacrifice pinion strength.. the tiny little pinion on the 5.62 is not as beefy as the larger pinon on the 4.62's or 5.12's.
The ring on the used set of 5.62's I got had "threading" pattern... strange.. but still nice and smooth, and not worn, just a little strange.. the Pinion had the same threading, but some noticeable wear.. I expect them to last almost forever offroad... but I wouldn't use this set for a DD and expect 25k miles or anything (although I might be surprised) Something tells me I am going to find 5.83's and invest in ARB's before they wear out anyway... this is a sickness... LOL...
ANYWAY.. no pics... it was raining today, and I almost killed my camera last wheeling trip.. I will say that after pulling the 5.12 last month and spooling it.. the second time was like butta! I had the left axle out in about 8 minutes, and the right side off in 5, literally... simple when the stuff has been broken loose lately! I was going to try to see how fast I could do the whole thing.. but it started raining, and the cell started ringing.. (What part of, "I am laying under my Tracker with grease on my hands, and dirt in my eyes" don't people understand????) So I just stopped timing my self..... (silly anyway)
Everything went surprisingly easily... nothing even broke or was lost!
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I'm always paranoid if something goes easy... it must be I'm forgetting something
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front is easy disconnect driveshaft and CV's and pull complete housing with third and do it all on the bench. Then you can scrub the alum. housing down and check everything.
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front is easy disconnect driveshaft and CV's and pull complete housing with third and do it all on the bench. Then you can scrub the alum. housing down and check everything.
Great.. the instructions sounded easy in the Chilton's..
how hard is the passenger axle cup to pry out? I was playing with my spare axles and the other front 3rd.. that little ring on the axle makes it kinda hard to go in.. or maybe I just didn't have the leverage on the bench..
I also noticed that there was "half" of one of those rings in the spiders gears on the front 3rd... Glad I caught that.. that would have wreaked havoc on the trail... looks like it broke off the axle when last disassembled..
anything to watch out for on pulling these axles? does other axle come out hard too? or does it just slide out?
Thanks........
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I use a crow bar to get mine out, they
come out kind of tough, the bearing comes
out with it too.
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Use a little bit of grease on the axle circlip to help it stay centred when putting it back and it will go a lot easier, especially if you drop it in vertically on the bench.
When you get around to doing your t-case gears the only real pain is the bolt on top of the t-case that you nned to undo to seperate it from the trans >:(
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Thanks, I will keep that in mind..
One thing at a time... she's a comin together!!
Gettin betta, betta every day (well, every week anyway)
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Ah yes.. decided at about 4 PM that it was nice enough to go try to pull the front housing out, replace the CV, get the 5.62's installed in the front and get the 5.12's on ebay..
All I can say is, the more I work on these little Zuks.. the more I am impressed with the ease of doing this sort of stuff..
The first time I looked at the front housing, it sure didn't look like it would come out so easy..
I pulled the broken passenger axle out in about 10 minutes, maybe less.. that sure is easy!!
and I swear, I had the whole housing sitting on my bench less than 45 minutes after that.
To fix the passenger axle, drop the axle housing and replace the 3rd... I swear the hardest part was getting gear oil back in the housing.. LOL.. I need one of those oil pumps...
Never even pulled the left tire..
Pulled passenger tire
Pulled passenger hub, and axle circlip
Removed ball joint
Removed caliper
Removed strut bolts
Swung spindle off ball joint, and axle and swung out of way
Crowbarred the axle cup out of housing (easy)
Removed three right side housing mounts
Disconnected front drive shaft
Disconnected three bolts to drivers axle flange
Removed Two bolts holding right side lower crossmember mount (the bolts to the housing were seized.. had to get them out on the bench.. was easier this way anyway
Removed four left side housing mounts..
Dropped it right out... no problem!
Heck, I need a grease proof camera.. this would have made a good write up too!
Yehaww... did the test drive in 4wd in my ditch... my stock performance is BACK! Yeah!
Turns the 31's like nothing now..... (hmmm wonder how much more I would have to trim for 33's?LOL)
Adding up all the time for the rear and the front.. I would say I have about 5 hours total in the gear swap, in my driveway, on jackstands... by myself.... I think I could do it again in half the time... second time is always easier!!!
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I'm still looking for these in the Junkyard world. Here's my situation. My trackick is a DD. I'm putting on 235/75's. Would you still recommend swapping to 5.62's for a daily driver? I'm also trying to experiment with the whole gas mileage thing. Right now I just want to know about power and reliability. Also would 5.62's adn 235/75's keep the speedometer close to stock?
ERock
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New Diff Ratio(5.62)/Old Diff Ratio(5.125) x Old Tyre Size(27") = New Tyre Size
5.62/5.125 x 27 = 29.6"
So assuming that you currently have 5.125 Diffs and Stock 27" tyres then by swapping to 5.62 Diffs you could run 29.6" tyres and it would drive like stock not taking into account a small loss due to windage of a wider tyre and greater rotational mass.
As 235/75-15's are about 29" then swapping to 5.62 diffs will keep it driving like stock.
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Hi quaddawg,
I'm located in Greece, and the model with the 5.62's has not been impoerted here. So what I'm looking to find is their part numbers in order to ask from the local suzuki to import them for me.
So if you have their part numbers, I would be thankful.
Or can you advise me on where to find them, even at your place?
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Hey ERock, My wifes 4 door Kick (1.6-16 v, MT, 3" lift) has the 5.12s and we put 235s on it with aluminum rims and it doesn't even feel any different than stock. We take it on road trips all the time. Cruises 75mph like nothing and can do 90. Only on the big hills (not mountains) do I ever need to shift down to keep above 70. Gas mileage has stayed good also. Last I checked we were getting around 27MPG. The speedo is a little off but not enough to matter to me. ;D
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Hey ERock, My wifes 4 door Kick (1.6-16 v, MT, 3" lift) has the 5.12s and we put 235s on it with aluminum rims and it doesn't even feel any different than stock.
I think the 16V can handle the bigger tyres better, it has around 20% more power. My 8V only had 12000 miles on it when I fitted 235s so it was it in top condition. The difference was quite noticable.
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Cool... Maybe I'll wait and save money for the 5.83's... Course with the family... maybe not. If 5.12's work with 235/75's does that mean 5.62's will work well enough with 31's?
Still have to keep my eye out for 5.62's just to see what I come up with. If I change my mind I'll throw out the info of what I have found on this site.
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5.62's work fine with 31's, even big wide heavy 31's on steel wheels... well... it will do 65 or so, but you do have to downshift a bit.. but my TSL LTB's are H E A V Y and a narrower tire with less rubber isn't going to tax you nearly as bad.
As to the gentleman above from Greece..
There were SO FEW 5.62's made that I doubt Suzuki even carries them.
I wouldn't have a clue as to the part#'s
Try PETROWORKS.com I think they advertise them...
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What year and models used the 5.62's? I work in a GM dealership parts department and I could look up the part #'s if given the information to look for.
Sounds like this ring gear set would feel right at home in my little 90 Geo.
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89 and 90... Trackers/Sidekicks Manual, Carbureted, 1.3 liters ONLY..
VERY VERY VERY VERY VERY Few made. Let us know if you find a source.
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To make sure I have this straight... With 5.62's and 235/75's I won't be able to go as fast on the interstate? What about gas mileage? Trying to get the facts before I try this out. I want a DD/Trail rig, but I still need to get to 75 mph... Hmmmm....
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It will still prolly pull 75 with the 235's and 5.62's
BUT, if all you are putting on is 235's... you don't need the 5.62's
Gas mileage has a LOT to do with the weight of your tire/wheel combo, as well as gearing.
235's are usually less than 29 inches, mine were. and with 235's mine would run 75... barely, but it would pull it. With my current tires, I am lucky to run 65.... WITH 5.62's...
BUT, this all depends on you finding 5.62's... lol....
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Yah, I know... Still on the hunt for these... They are RARE! I've called prolly 35 places so far and have put my name on some search sites... My wife calls me OCD, I call myself TENACIOUS, is there really a difference? Is the front diff a dropout assembly? There are places that sell the front as a whole and the rear separate...
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Yeah, the front IS a drop out.. but the thing is, you have to drop out the whole front axle housing to get it to where you can "drop it out"... SO, I imagine that is why they sell the whole front housing and just the rear third.
BUT, it is NOT a bad thing to have a spare axle and diff housing... cause they break...