ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: magiccat on May 19, 2006, 11:48:52 AM
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I have a 94 sidelick
2.5 coil spacer lift
stock struts
I "slotted" the upper stut hole. This did not allow enough movement
I then purcahced camber bolts. This has still not fixed it yet
What next?
My camber also seems to change quite frequently.
How is this possible?
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camber bolts alone should fix the problem. It did on mine with 3" coil spacers. You need to take a closer look as something is not right. Also the camber should not change over time unless you wheel hard (it can get knocked around then)
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i may be wrong here but have you flipped the strut mount yet? does that have any effect on how much you can get the camber adjusted on these model years?
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you an buy camber bolts with different amounts of adjustment. you may just need the next one up. you will also have to adjust the toe also.
derek
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Does the widening mod help with camber? I can't get it through my head if it does or not as I have not tried it yet.
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I have a 2in. strut spacer
The camber bolts are 12 mm
The old strut bolt was 17 mm
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It's hard to tell in the picture, but are the struts slotted the correct way? They should be grooved out toward the strut itself (away from the knuckle) so that the knuckle is resting as close on the strut as possible. I slotted mine with a 2" lift and didn't need camber bolts at all. Then i had it aligned and everything was good.
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yes I grooved them that way
I had enough movement that the knuckle would hit the inside of the strut.
I also found it very hard to move the knuckle.
How did you go about making the adjustment?
Thanks
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Still need help on the camber :-\
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can any one tell me where to get coil spacers?
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a 3" lift on stock arms and struts will definatly throw the camber out (positive), as you all know and seen already.
flipping the strut mount will have no change in the camber settings, unless you slot the strut holes and move the top of the strut in towards the centre of the car.
i have found that sometimes slotting the upper strut-to-knuckle hole does not allow for enough camber change, as the knuckle hits the strut body. if you do slot the upper hole, do it so it moves the top of the knuckle inwards.
or you can slot the lower hole and pull the bottom of the knuckle outwards. this also will help the camber a bit better. by doing the lower hole, there seems to be more room out than in.
if it still does not work, you can do both.
another way if you cant get a hole of some descent camber bolts, is to run smaller bolts through the holes as well, but you will need larger washers on either side.
the hagen widening mod moves the lower arms outwards, hence widening. this will push the lower ball joint on the lower a arm OUT, and will push the bottom of the tyres out. which is what you want. slotting the lower strut holes is similar to this, only not as big or a change.
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I slotted the upper strut hole/ loosened the bottom one, and I found it really hard to move the knuckle without the tire on for leverage. I think I could do some more grinding now that I think about it. Did you take both bolts of the strut and pull it away from the knuckle, to slot the hole? After you slotted the hole, how did you move the knuckle? Did you put the tire back on and lower the car and then make the adjustment? Because I don't think I did mine right. Can I get a step by step on how to do this? How did you slot the hole? All I had was a big crusty drill bit;and that didn't work out to well. I know this id probally lame.
Thanks for the help ;D
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a 3" lift on stock arms and struts will definatly throw the camber out (positive), as you all know and seen already.
flipping the strut mount will have no change in the camber settings, unless you slot the strut holes and move the top of the strut in towards the centre of the car.
i have found that sometimes slotting the upper strut-to-knuckle hole does not allow for enough camber change, as the knuckle hits the strut body. if you do slot the upper hole, do it so it moves the top of the knuckle inwards.
or you can slot the lower hole and pull the bottom of the knuckle outwards. this also will help the camber a bit better. by doing the lower hole, there seems to be more room out than in.
if it still does not work, you can do both.
another way if you cant get a hole of some descent camber bolts, is to run smaller bolts through the holes as well, but you will need larger washers on either side.
the hagen widening mod moves the lower arms outwards, hence widening. this will push the lower ball joint on the lower a arm OUT, and will push the bottom of the tyres out. which is what you want. slotting the lower strut holes is similar to this, only not as big or a change.
Thats how I fixed my camber...Hagen Widening....
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Is the hagen widening mod a pain?
do you have to do the custom cv shafts/probally a good idea
can you still run it down the highway?
I'm thinking about doing the hagen widening mod
But for now I would like to fix the camber
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Is the hagen widening mod a pain?
do you have to do the custom cv shafts/probally a good idea
can you still run it down the highway?
I'm thinking about doing the hagen widening mod
But for now I would like to fix the camber
The hardest thing is making the pass. side CV axle. I drive mine all the time 70-80 mph with 33's on the freeway.No problems.
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you were saying the camber changes allot, that's just what kicks do, the desighn causes that as the suspension flexes. sorry I'm no help on making the camber perfect but I thought I'd do what I can and say that.. good luck, looks like a fun rig
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thanks. It is a fun rig when I have the time to "play" ;D
It's funny because I just took a trip into town all highway and as it sits right now the camber is fine. ??? Strange.
Thanks for the help
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I still need help on the camber thing. Sorry for clogging up the threads with an old topic but I can't just seem to get it right.
Do you need a die grinder to slot the upper hole?
What else would work for the grinding?
How do you move the knuckle without the tire on ot for leverage?
Thanks again
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The knuckle should move quite easily left and right, but doesn't move up and down with the strut bolted in.
Basically what i did for mine is have the knuckle mounted as it normally would be, then have the strut out on the ground. I used a die grinder with a funny bit on the end for cutting sideways and stretched out the holes in the direction i mentioned before. Then put the lower bolt in the strut first thru the knuckle, then push on the strut and the knuckle should locate into the strut mount, then bolt it back together. This was on OME struts that i did this that already have some adjustment made into them. But with the knuckle completely against the strut, that's the maximum camber you can get there. I didn't touch the lower bolts because it didn't need it. When i took it to an alignment shop, they were able to get some adjustment out of the tie rod ends to help set it nice and straight, and it all worked.
When mine gets lifted off the ground, then set back down again, the camber looks horrible until you drive it down the road, then it straightens out.
Have you been to an alignment shop yet since you slotted the upper holes?
Something else i just thought of... Unflip your upper strut mounts if they are flipped. It might have a negative effect perhaps on the camber.
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Thanks for the info
I have 2in strut spacers
I think I can slot the upper hole more... I just need to get a die grinder.
I haven't been to an alignment shop sice I slotted the upper hole.
I adjusting the toe in and toe out hard to do?
Thanks for all the help
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it doesn't look hard to adjust the toe, but i let the tire shop do it in the alignment.
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I just remember when I slotted the upper hole. As soon as I removed the 2 bolts on the strut the whole a - arm dropped down. After I slotted the upper hole It was a pain in the butt ti get the knuckle back up into the strut. So how are you supposed to move that knuckle around?
I couldn't figure it out. ??? SO I think If I get a die grinder and slot the hole further and move the knuckle all the way untill it hits the strut body;my camber should be fixed! I hope ;D
THanks again for all the help