ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: oklak5guy on May 24, 2006, 06:58:48 PM
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Ok, here is my first thread with the sammi. I just got it last weekend. cant post pics, but it is sweet. Only a little repairable rust, and only has 52000 miles on it. I plan on driving it stock for a while until I do enough research, and save some money.
1st question.
When I start it up and it is cold, it revs really high. For quite a while. It finally smooths out and slows down, but still seems like an erratic idle. But not real bad. Any tips?
2nd question.
If i were do buy all of the engine stuff from Calmini for the 1.3 (Camshaft, headers, exhaust, Weber, etc) How many HP could I look at getting from it? How does this compare to just swapping in a stock 1.6? I only ask this because I am a whiz at bolt on stuff, but do not have the facilities or tools to do the swap right now.
3rd question.
Does anyone have any comments or reviews on the bolt on SPOA kit from Calmini? I think it is like 5 or 6 inches. How is it off road, on road, flex? Does it have decent clearance under the axles? I think I could put it on in my driveway.
I would like to do whatever i need to the engine, add the 5.38 gears, and one of the gearing packages for the Tcase. Maybe some harder axleshafts, wheel spacers, power steering, bumpers/armor, maybe 2" body lift. I would like to run 35" Pit Bull tires.
So with this setup I am talking about, can I drive this setup to work and back and do mild to medium wheeling on the weekends. Mostly trail, mud, and mild rocks. I dont mind having to fix something every once in a while, but would like to build it where it will not break all the time.
Please excuse these searchable questions, but this is my first suzuki, and I want to try to build it right the first time.
Thanks in advance.
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By the time you add up the cost of power steering, headers, cam, webber carb.... you could have purchased a 1.6L and had MUCH better power and torque. If you're looking for 5" of lift or more, i presume you're trying to put on BIG tires... and you're going to want a bigger motor.
Check out this thread for engine options:
http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=12012.0
If you NEED to do something for performance, I'd buy a cam from this guy:
http://www.hawksuzukiparts.com/
Calmini makes good stuff. Can't go wrong with them. Do a search for calmini, you'll find lots of reviews and opinions.
~J~
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if your car is manuel then thats the reason it idels so high bc if it didnt you would stall it all the time bc the engines cold
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HOw big is the Sammi gas tank?
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Small 10.6 US gal Fuel, we are talking about larger ones over here (http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=12228.0).
I would skip putting lower gears in and just go straight for a transfer case. You are most likely going to want one anyways, and it is a lot cheaper then swapping your diffs out. Not to mention easier.
If your true goal is 35's, I would just look for some Toy axels or something a bit larger to be done with it. You can could rebuild the Sammy axels to be just as strong as something else, but it would probably cost more in the end. With the amount I have put into my current axels, I could have bought some Toy's to start out the process. And I haven't even done anything radical to mine.
If you want to stick with the Sammy axels though, there are some good writeups on swapping out to the larger Calmini axels and Subaru Birfields, or Birfield cups, or those new longfields that should get you through a day without breakage.
You might want to stick with the SOA and 31's to begin with though, and see how it wheels as is. Especially if it is going to be a DD without a larger engine, like Jeremiah said you will want the extra power and torque with the larger tires.
Then again, I tow a SJ-410 (970cc's of power, feel those 42hp at work!) with a Turbo Diesel, so I may not have the best advice when it comes to DD Sammy's. :D
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Ok, rethinking. 33" Pit Bulls..............not very tall. Willing to cut fenders. Want a decent ride and want flex. A little more power. Dependable. chime in all you want, this will end up being my build up thread.
On this stock engine, how many MPG should I get? The guy I bought it from told me it gets around 28. doesnt seem right.
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I know people have been happy with the YJ SOA kits available, but I'll let the sammy drivers chime in on road gearing with the 33's. ;D
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Really curious about the Bolt on SPOA kit from Calmini, as I dont look forward to trying to line up spring perches myself.
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Rocky Road has spring perches that fit on top of your existing pads for your own SOA setup. You would still need to do something with your steering, drive shaft length (Spacers work) and brake lines (I just moved mine outside the mounting bracket, and slipped a zip tie around it, Hawk Suzuki has extended lines available).
Pad Linkage (http://www.rocky-road.com/springpad.html).
Just make sure they are in stock if you order them, otherwise you might be waiting a while.
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The 1.6 16v is WAYYYYY worth the swap.
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Love those spring perches. Will definitely get those.
Was thinking I may try and run the stock axles for a while. See what kind of wheeling I will be doing. Was thinking 35" tires, because a coworker has a set for pretty cheap. What gears do I need in the axles for 35's?
If I go the way of the 1.6 16v, How hard is it to wire it up?
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Same questions as above? Plus, I cant get the Tcase to shift easily into 2H after wheeling the other day, I was told it was the shifter sheet. Where can I get one and how hard to install?
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I'm just putting Calmini SPOA in mine at the moment, 1.5" springs with shackle reversal. How ever it will a while before I'm ready to drive it as I'm now waiting on a snake racing hi steer knuckle (http://store.snakeracing.com.au/cache/item-892public.html?cache=no) and I want to mod a few other bits before it goes back together.
The Calmini perches are well designed and give the spring a good solid footing of equal size top and bottom side of the spring compared to my mates R/R kit where the top plate is of a larger size then the perch which is making the spring invert slightly when it's torqued down in place, he's also ended up welding the perch to stop them moving around.
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Same questions as above? Plus, I cant get the Tcase to shift easily into 2H after wheeling the other day, I was told it was the shifter sheet. Where can I get one and how hard to install?
Go to the Gear Guide on this site. It should be about $20 shipped.
~J~
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I didnt see them in the gear guide.
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Hi,
I had a high idle problem with my Sami. The thermostat was stuck open and wouldn't let the coolant heat up enough to shut the choke off. Replaced the thermostat (about $5.00 IIRC), no more problem...
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Thanks, I might try that. Did it run hot, too? Mine isnt running hot.
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No, the thermostat was stuck open, so it was running cold, thus, no choke shutoff, resulting in high idle.
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I would skip putting lower gears in and just go straight for a transfer case. You are most likely going to want one anyways, and it is a lot cheaper then swapping your diffs out. Not to mention easier.
Brent at Trail Tough:
http://php.trailtough.com/viewtopic.php?t=3
While doing transfer case gears is probably the biggest bang for the buck and a quick-fix, it is definitely a lousy way to try and create a reliable, trouble-free drivetrain. So think about this for a minute...you put on larger tires, so your pinion now becomes TWICE as hard to turn putting TWICE as much stress on the u-joints, transfer case mounts and the transfer case itself, as well as the brackets on the side of the frame that holds the transfer case in place. It leads to problem chasing such as having to use unnecessary large and heavy driveshafts, having the bolts pull out of the transfer case on the long arm side, having the mounting boss break off of the transfer case or having the short arm side bracket start to tear off of the frame rail. It is because you have given your transfer case up to 3 times as much power by putting in lower gears and now the transfer case wants to do flip-flops in its mount. Many people consider only the POWER issue of this equation as opposed to considering the STRESS LOADING situation as well. You need to change the ring and pinion gears also - relative to your tire size - which will make the driveshaft easy to turn again, taking all of the strain off of these parts - just like it was made from the factory when the smaller tires were on it. It is a mistake to do all of your gear reduction at one point. Especially that far up the mechanical chain. Do yourself a favor....reduce the ratio at the ring and pinions relative to the size tire you want to run, then select the transfer case gears that will best meet your 4-wheeling needs. By going this route, you will have a well thought out and trouble-free drivetrain, working well within the parameters of strain that the parts can and will reliably handle.
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True. I have 5.12 and the 6.5 in my Sj, but one of the guys I run with has a 5.7 and the Rock Block. In all the times we have run, we have only broken one U-joint and he has taken out 3 birfields. It was a low quality u-joint and I blame the rock it was riding more then the torque. :) If you want a rig that isn't going to have issues turning 33's or higher, you should be looking at upgrading your axels anyway. The stock Suzuki kit simply won't hold up to a solid beating with that large of a tire unless you are very careful. No matter what you do, there will always be a weekest point. I think the axels and birfs will break before you loose driveshafts and diffs. But everyone has their own opinion on it, so Brent may be right. ;D
I will agree on the transfer case mounts though, you need to switch over to the bullet proof ones. But a 4:1 kit alone is enough to cause that upgrade.
Seperate Note - The shifter sheat. If you aren't having a problem shifting in and out of 2-Hi now I don't think you will when you are done wheeling at the end of the day. I think Hawk Suzuki sells the parts you are looking for though. Their kit for fixing the sloppy transmission shifting works great as well.
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Thanks, for the info. Looking for some Toy axles now. Will swap the R&P before I put them in.
The Tcase shifts out of 2H fine, just hard to go back into 2H.
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Easy out, hard in... ...Check your clutch adjustment. I was having a similar problem with my Tracker, and the clutch wasn't disengaging completely. It was affecting both the trans and t-case (don't know why it affected the t-case) but tightening the clutch adjustment a turn helped...