ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: the_dude on February 07, 2005, 03:12:31 AM
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So question for the group..
The achilles heel of the sidekick is the aluminum front end drive train...yes we all know this..
My question is has anyone actually seen the aluminum housing break? I have seen 3 or 4 alumininum third members break but never a housing...
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So question for the group..
The achilles heel of the sidekick is the aluminum front end drive train...yes we all know this..
My question is has anyone actually seen the aluminum housing break? I have seen 3 or 4 alumininum third members break but never a housing...
'Der, I broke two whilst you were around... :)
-Eric
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Um...
(http://www.granitepath.com/friends/kd7hcg/pictures/crackeddiff/DCP_2022.jpg)
(http://www.granitepath.com/friends/kd7hcg/pictures/crackeddiff/DCP_2003.jpg)
Because some teeth tried to run for their lives away from the Auto Hub boogeyman.
Also, I've seen several mounting tabs break because of stress (and the Calmini 3" lift)
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I've never seen it happen,
But I seen the aftermath  ;D
Mine broke the mounts on the R/H side, If you have a look in the X/L7 forum on here you'll find Jagular7's broken alloy housing with pic's too.
Seems to be more common to brake the 3rd than the  main housing, either at the mounting tab or between the two pinion bearings normally.
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i have one with a hole in after the shaft broke and the crown wheel pushed it through the botom , i stopped to see dif ol pouring out  whoops. still using one thou :-)
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OK, might be a stupid question, but I've read on here about there being a difference with the housing steel vs. aluminum? Or maybe that was the axle? But how do you tell. Just by looking at it? I assume it would have the brushed aluminum look to it? Hope this question makes sense. :P
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OK, might be a stupid question, but I've read on here about there being a difference with the housing steel vs. aluminum? Or maybe that was the axle? But how do you tell. Just by looking at it? I assume it would have the brushed aluminum look to it? Hope this question makes sense.  :P
http://www.zukiworld.com/cgi/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=suzuki_talk;action=display;num=1106625084;start=15
;D
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But how do you tell.
a magnet ...
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I broke mine about two months ago on some rocks.  I think i have fixed the problem with the calmini drop brackets for the front axle housing.  I built a truss that ties the brackets together to take the stress off of the thirdmember, and instead of grinding the lip off of the bottom of the third member i notched out the crossmember for clearance.
Still don't know for sure how well it will work yet. haven't had it back together long enough or been back to where i broke it.
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14 years............never broken a housing or diff case. Front end has been locked for 11 years (5 years with a lockright, and the last 6 lincoln), 238 -1 crawl ratio in low low and I run 33" tires. Broken axles........but never a housing or case. With the new axles I expect that the case may now give way!
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14 years............never broken a housing or diff case. Front end has been locked for 11 years (5 years with a lockright, and the last 6 lincoln), 238 -1 crawl ratio in low low and I run 33" tires. Broken axles........but never a housing or case. With the new axles I expect that the case may now give way!
Kerry,
Are you running a modified Pinion mount?
This would seem almost mandetory to achieve any service life under locked & geared load in reverse.
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I have a steel front axle.
How do you tell the difference?
Try picking one up!!!! ;)
Nick
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I ran the Alu housing for years locked and geared with no housing breakage (LOTS of axles but no housings) I went Anvil to make the trail fixes easier and to keep from twisting off the inner splines on the weaker passenger side 1/2 shaft. (was tired of tearing apart my front diff to get all the parts out damn near every time I went wheeling)
Zig
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Nick dont the steel ones have 3 bolts on the front rather than 4 like the ally one?
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Kerry, ÂÂ
  Are you running a modified Pinion mount? ÂÂ
This would seem almost mandetory to achieve any service life under locked & geared load in reverse.
No........... everything is stock!
By the way I find it easier and quicker to change out the drivers side CV axle than the triangulated side...fewer bolts to loosen and remove.
3 ball joint bolts and one tie rod end, all 17mm in size, swing the knuckle/strut assembly out and put the new axle in.........10-15 minutes max........
Other side 3 extra bolts on the flange to remove and replace.
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Nick dont the steel ones have 3 bolts on the front rather than 4 like the ally one?
I've had 2 ally housings, one was 3 bolts, one was 4 bolts. The side mountings can be either too.