ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: Uncivilized on September 16, 2006, 04:30:01 PM
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When I heard my friend Craig bought a Tracker, I knew he would want it bigger, and I was right. After talking with him, we decided to make our own coil spacers, he bought the tools, I bought the material. So away I went and made a 2" lift with some UHMW I got locally.
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0002.jpg)
I told Craig about the mount flip to get the extra down travel, he called me one day and had a great idea, he sourced some Chevy 3/8" exhaust flanges that were a perfect match to the strut plate, he suggested we use 2 of these per side to fill in the gap from the rolled edge, and to add some extra down travel.
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0001.jpg)
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0004.jpg)
After doing the strut flip, and bolting everything back, we started the lift in the rear, and installed new longer shocks from a 91 Crown Victorian. Very easy.
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0006.jpg)
Next, we went back to the front to put in the spacers. Thankfully, we had some help from my crazy-haired boy, Zach.
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0010.jpg)
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0009.jpg)
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0008.jpg)
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0011.jpg)
We then removed the top bolt for the lower strut mount, pushed the knuckle in ALL the way(used an air hammer) till it hit the strut body and ground out the hole with an air dremmel till the bolt went back in. I hear lots of people talking about buying camber bolts. I'd like to say, this literally took us about 15 minutes FOR BOTH SIDES no kidding, that's why there are no pictures, I didn't have time to grab the camera. This is a very effective and FREE way to adjust your camber, having the knuckle in as far as it would go was the perfect amount for the lift.
EDIT: Although it was a perfect amount for this truck, it may not be for yours, depending on the strut brand. You may have to play with this a bit to get it right for your project.
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0012.jpg)
After bolting everything back tight, Craig pulled his lifted Tracker out in the yard......
WOW! What a difference! (sorry, no before pics, I was late getting to the garage ::) )
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0014.jpg)
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0015.jpg)
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0018.jpg)
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0016.jpg)
Craig *borrowed* som black spraypaint to cover the white spacers
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0017.jpg)
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0019.jpg)
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0020.jpg)
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0021.jpg)
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0022.jpg)
Mine is next.... doing it tomorrow.
Craig is also adding a 3" body lift, I'll add pics when that's done too
~Dave
Technical Data:
Front Spacer - 1.5" thick UHMW Polyethelene
Strut Flip and 2 Chevy Exhaust Flanges
Rear Spacer - 2" thick MDPE Polyethelene
Crown Victorian Shocks plus a 1/2" thick nut between the shock and the bushing washer
The Front Measured 1/2" more at the fenders, I suppose trimming them to 1.25" would have made it sit more level, but I don't think it will be noticable when the body lift and 31's go on.
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Got mine done Sunday... It took a bit long than the other, the lower control arms were different where the ball joint mounts, mine is closed in, so it has to slide out, it was very frustrating.
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0001-1.jpg)
Installed longer shocks from a 91 Crown Victorian
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0004-1.jpg)
Here's what took up the time, on my old tracker this was open to allow the ball joint plate to fall downwards, with this one, it was boxed it, so it needed to slide out of the control arm, this required the hub to be removed, and the cv axle to be removed from the knuckle, I wasn't happy, and will probable change to the older style control arms for easy ball joint replacements.
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0005.jpg)
In order to get the bolts out, we had to heat them for a while, then twist and hammer them out, this took a considerable amount of time. I'm not happy with this change in the trackicks.
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0009-1.jpg)
To adjust the camber, I removed the top strut bolt, and pushed in the top of the knuckle with an air hammer, then ground out the hole till the bolt went back in. This was too much adjustment for mine, it needed to be backed off some.
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0011-1.jpg)
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0014-1.jpg)
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0015-1.jpg)
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/2InchLift-1.jpg)
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LOOKS SUPER DUPER GOOD!!!!! When are going to start selling your lifting (KITS). Let us know dood. ;D ;D
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I just read this.. why did you take the ball joint out that way?? Why not just take the nut off the ball joint and separate it from the spindle?? I have done three that way. Much easier than messing around with that style of ball joint, unless you were replacing the joint that is.
Just wondering
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I just read this.. why did you take the ball joint out that way?? Why not just take the nut off the ball joint and separate it from the spindle?? I have done three that way. Much easier than messing around with that style of ball joint, unless you were replacing the joint that is.
Just wondering
i was wondering the same ???
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I just read this.. why did you take the ball joint out that way?? Why not just take the nut off the ball joint and separate it from the spindle?? I have done three that way. Much easier than messing around with that style of ball joint, unless you were replacing the joint that is.
Just wondering
It didn't look like there was enough room to pull the ball joint out of the knuckle because the cv cup is right above it, and there's only about 1" of room in between. I didn't think it was enough because the thickness of material was about .75"/1", plus the rest of the threaded section where the nut/cotter pin is. I was a little confused as to what to do with the boxed in BJ, so that's just the way it ended up going. You're saying there is enough room... I'll know better next time, and won't swap to the early 1992 a-arms ;)
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And: an update on the 89...
3" Homemade body lift installed
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/2plus3-1.jpg)
And with borrowed 33's(they didn't stay on, they weren't ballanced and worn un-even, it was a scary drive!)
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/33s-3.jpg)
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there is definatly enough room I have done 3 sets of diggers spacers on a 91,94 and 96. the total job from start to finish is about 1 hour. 1.5hours on my first one.
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oops minus the strut tower mods, good write up on the towers and camber adjustments.
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there is definatly enough room I have done 3 sets of diggers spacers on a 91,94 and 96. the total job from start to finish is about 1 hour. 1.5hours on my first one.
Did you need to turn the wheel a little, to make room by moving the cv cup? or does it just pull right out? I really can't picture it happening.... I'll be checking soon just out of curiosity ;)
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passenger side just pulls right out of third member, well actually i put a flat head screwdriver in there and helped it and the drivers side i took off the 3 bolts and dissconnected the cv that way. i tried those lower bolts and after a half an hour i gave up and found this way thus the extra 1/2 hour on the first try.
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I didn't mean the cv axles... but that's okay, I'll take your word for it and know better next time ;) Thanks for letting me know you two, it should save me a ton of time on the next one ;D
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no problem that is why we are here 8)
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well i just did my 4 door with digger spacers and i have done three of these now and for some reason on this one the back sits alot lower than the front. digger if you are out there can you help. the first 2 pick's are with the front done and no spacers in the rear, the next 2 are with the spacers installed in the rear, i did not really notice a difference in height when i installed the rear spacers can you?
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well i just did my 4 door with digger spacers and i have done three of these now and for some reason on this one the back sits alot lower than the front. digger if you are out there can you help. the first 2 pick's are with the front done and no spacers in the rear, the next 2 are with the spacers installed in the rear, i did not really notice a difference in height when i installed the rear spacers can you?
Maybe the coil springs are saggy ? What thickness coil spacer?
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And another update:
He found and bought some used 31-10.5-15 Thursday...
And we went out on Sunday...
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0014-2.jpg)
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0030-1.jpg)
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looks great, how are the tires working, any rubbing?
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well i just did my 4 door with digger spacers and i have done three of these now and for some reason on this one the back sits alot lower than the front. digger if you are out there can you help. the first 2 pick's are with the front done and no spacers in the rear, the next 2 are with the spacers installed in the rear, i did not really notice a difference in height when i installed the rear spacers can you?
Maybe the coil springs are saggy ? What thickness coil spacer?
stock with 51k on vehicle.
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plus if you look at before and after rear lift, i can't really tell a difference and for being 2inches i think it should be noticable.
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but remember, you have a larger tire on in that pic, it's filling more wheelwell.
I know it's hard to judge from the pic, but it looks fine to me.
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looks great, how are the tires working, any rubbing?
It rocked all day, he only got stuck once, got hung up on a big rock in a water hole, he was teatering on it, and needed a tug. The tires he bought are almost new, the PO didn't like them, he found them noisy. :P
Not this one, but just another action shot ;)
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0004-2.jpg)
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0005-1.jpg)
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Thats nice to know, I'm looking to body lift my 4door. This looks like just the right amount of lift for myself right now with my budget.
Is this something you plan on selling?
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plus if you look at before and after rear lift, i can't really tell a difference and for being 2inches i think it should be noticable.
It is noticable to me. Hold a ruler up to each pic along the bottom of the rocker trim and look at the center of the rear wheel in each pic. You can see that the center of the rear wheel is definately lower in the after pic... Drive it around a little to get everything settled, then park it on a level surface and see if it doesn't look better. Double check by measuring the frame to ground and rocker to ground in front and rear...
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With the spacers installed the only thing that would prevent you getting the lift would be too short shocks.
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Hey Uncivilized I just realized it was your spacers i bought off ebay lol ;D. I cant wait to get them installed on my rig im also looking into doing a 3" homemade body lift. origanally i wanted to just do the 2" but if i can make a 3 for cheap then y not...my trucks a 96 4 door tracker auto...Ill post some pics wants i get them and get em installed and everything...
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plus if you look at before and after rear lift, i can't really tell a difference and for being 2inches i think it should be noticable.
It is noticable to me. Hold a ruler up to each pic along the bottom of the rocker trim and look at the center of the rear wheel in each pic. You can see that the center of the rear wheel is definately lower in the after pic... Drive it around a little to get everything settled, then park it on a level surface and see if it doesn't look better. Double check by measuring the frame to ground and rocker to ground in front and rear...
i did not look at it that way, i was just looking at the difference in height from the top of my tire to the bottom of the lip of the fender. maybe with the smaller tires i had on my other one made it look alot more noticable.