ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: Chief on January 22, 2005, 05:32:32 AM
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Anyone ever seen these from Trail tough?
http://www.trailtough.com/images/samdiskbrk.jpg
From their website...
"This basic kit includes the pieces necessary for the do-it-yourselfer to put Samurai front calipers and rotors on the rear of your Samurai OR Sidekick."
Samurai
Item #ERD-400 Price $ 99.00
Sidekick
Item #ERD-401 Price $ 99.00
**Note - this kit makes NO provision for e-brake or proportioning."
Need to get some sammi front discs and the sammi calipers, and a proportioning valve, but saves the PIA of custom making the disc mounting surface and the calpier bracket!! And it dosen't have anything for an e-brake, but for people who are/will be running a link lock for an e-brake )like me) it's good!
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If your lucky enough to find a Sammie T-case with the E-brake on it.
No problems. ;D
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Also remeber that the M/C will have to be changed to a 4 wheel disc M/C. A drum M/C does not have the residual valve to keep pressure on the calipers.
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The Sidekick front (solid) disc is the same as a Sammy front so if you have a set of kick ones laying around they should work fine.
Thats definitely a easier set up then I'm going thru trying to retain a mechanical E/Brake, I wish I could get away with line lockers too.
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Also remeber that the M/C will have to be changed to a 4 wheel disc M/C. A drum M/C does not have the residual valve to keep pressure on the calipers.
can't you buy residual valves out of a catolog?
stu
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I know you can get porportion valves. Not sure about residual.
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You talkin about these?
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=esearch.asp&N=110&Ntk=KeywordSearch&Ntt=residual+valve
So the stock M/C does not have enough pressure to do rear brakes? Explain this dilemma for me.
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The Sidekick front (solid) disc is the same as a Sammy front so if you have a set of kick ones laying around they should work fine.
I thought the Sidekick discs were bigger/thicker than a Sammi disc. Line Lockers wouldn't be a legal alternative to a line locker over here and a Sammi tcase ebrake won't fit a Sidekick.
The calipers need more fluid to operate them than the drums. That means you have to push the pedal down further. The stock m/c definately doesn't work very well with rear discs, keeping the caliper piston size small would help.
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I thought the Sidekick discs were bigger/thicker than a Sammi disc. Line Lockers wouldn't be a legal alternative to a line locker over here and a Sammi tcase ebrake won't fit a Sidekick.
The calipers need more fluid to operate them than the drums. That means you have to push the pedal down further. The stock m/c definately doesn't work very well with rear discs, keeping the caliper piston size small would help.
No laws for me about a rear e-brake, so line lock will ork for me. I plan on using trackick front rotors and calipers.
Is their a good MC that will replace the stock unit, and be a realitive bolt on? And will that residual valve I linked to help at all, or not? I doubt it would....?
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For samurai, spidertrax sells proportioning valve kit, if you don't have the tools for putting your own brake lines together, the kit works out about the same as DIY.
If you can't find an SJ transfercase, they also sell a driveline ebrake kit.
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The rear disks of a Maxima (bluebird) have
Tokiko Calipers, I wonder if the MC would work
Wild
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For samurai, spidertrax sells proportioning valve kit, if you don't have the tools for putting your own brake lines together, the kit works out about the same as DIY.
If you can't find an SJ transfercase, they also sell a driveline ebrake kit.
Gonna get a proprtioning valve from Summit Racing (I live 30 mins from a warehouse) along with yjr line lock I need. Then gonna get a brake hardline bending/cutting/flaring kit and make my own, or just use rubber lines.
I also got a sammi t-case, but have no idea how/what the e-brake works on em?
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The residual valve is supposed to work quite well, I haven't tried one yet as I need to replace the calipers to try and sort my ebrake problems. The proportioning valve will depend on how much power you get out of the new rears, mine are pretty well balanced
The problem I have with the ebrake is that the auto adjuster is quite coarse. When its just clicked over the brakes aren't too bad but as they wear I get a lot of pedal travel just before they click over again. The ebrake handle needs about 10 clicks to pull them on too as the leverage ratios are very different.
Tcase ebrake works the same as a normal shoe setup but theres only one and its mounted on the back of the tcase  the shaft is then bolted to the outside of the drum where a wheel would usually be. If you know what its like then that will probably make sense  ::)
Edit:If the residual valve is only needed with discs then why do Summit sell a 10lb one for drums? Is it supposed to replace the ratchet mechanism by only releasing  part of the fluid pumped in when you apply the brakes
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Also remeber that the M/C will have to be changed to a 4 wheel disc M/C. A drum M/C does not have the residual valve to keep pressure on the calipers.
I've done some searching on this and I can only find references to needing a residual valve if the master cylinder is below the level of the caliper.
For example here:
http://www.mpbrakes.com/typical.htm