ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: stosh22 on October 16, 2006, 09:43:43 PM
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I just put on my RRO lift and I have to to some adjustments to the front end the wheels are \--/ so I guess I need some camber bolts.
I was wondering if you use one camber bolt and the original bolt on each side or do you need 4 camber bolts?
I was looking at Boondox. I don't know if there are any places to order them in Canada or what the price would end up being.
I just finished installing a home made 3" body lift. That took about 5 hours (not including running around and finding the right pieces and finding all the tools that my kids hid on me) Total price was about $45 including bolts and spray paint.
Another 3 hours got my RRO 2.5" old man emu set up in place. That again would have been done in one evening if I didn't have to run and try and find some inner and outer cv boots.
Now all I need are the tires. I was hoping to have them in for hunting next week (I was told there were huge mudholes everywhere up there) but it doesn't look like I will have anything to mount my 31 x 10.50 Procomp Mud Terrains on because the rims still are not in....
I don't know how well my old P205/75R15's will go through the mud but I don't think I am up for trying it....
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Looks like your really due for tires anyways.
Camber bolts.
haven't used them yet but I know you only use One on each side.
What did you end up using for a Bodylift?
3x3x3/16 blocks?
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That is how I convinced the wife to let me do the lift. I needed new tires and struts anyway and just added a few things she doesn't know about (yet).
Thanks for the tip on the camber bolts, I will order up a set tomorrow.
For the most part I followed the steps on heather's lift:
http://www.zuwharrie.com/content/view/11/27/
Except I drilled 3/4 inch holes and put the bushing through the hole and the rubber on the bottom so I didn't overtighten the rubbers. I ended up leaving the rubber that fits in the cups of the frame all in one piece and filled the holes with a couple of big washers instead of shaving them down. That caused more problems after because it makes it a bit more than 3 inches of BL and I had to weld a 1/4" filler to the 3x3's with no holes in them or else they wouldn't touch the body spacers.
For never seeing one or doing one before on anything I thought it went pretty good.
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Except I drilled 3/4 inch holes and put the bushing through the hole and the rubber on the bottom so I didn't overtighten the rubbers. I ended up leaving the rubber that fits in the cups of the frame all in one piece and filled the holes with a couple of big washers instead of shaving them down. That caused more problems after because it makes it a bit more than 3 inches of BL and I had to weld a 1/4" filler to the 3x3's with no holes in them or else they wouldn't touch the body spacers.
For never seeing one or doing one before on anything I thought it went pretty good.
Same thing I had to do.
What a 1/4"inch more lft compared to 3"? ;D ;)
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your 31's will mount on those rims if you need them too. ya, they'll rub the frame at full lock.. just avoid turning real tight. this way you can still get out and enjoy! i was out sat and sun last weekend and the water seems to be just sitting on top of everything so it's slippery underneath.
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Can anyone tell me where to get the camber bolts at. I want to give my kick a lift but I would like to have everything before I start. Also, what do you do about the front and rear bumpers, I really hate to leave them off, but I just can't find away to re-mount them and still make it look good. It's an 89 with 61000 miles in perfect shape almost like brand new.
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Can anyone tell me where to get the camber bolts at. I want to give my kick a lift but I would like to have everything before I start. Also, what do you do about the front and rear bumpers, I really hate to leave them off, but I just can't find away to re-mount them and still make it look good. It's an 89 with 61000 miles in perfect shape almost like brand new.
Camber bolts should be available at most any auto parts store. The may have to order them special for you.
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I have another question, after reading the stuff on the lift that Heather wrote it all works but she doesn't say anything about the fan. I need some help with this. The only thing I can think of is take it off and use an electric fan. What does everyone else do?
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I have another question, after reading the stuff on the lift that Heather wrote it all works but she doesn't say anything about the fan. I need some help with this. The only thing I can think of is take it off and use an electric fan. What does everyone else do?
The fan is mounted to the engine, the engine is mounted to the frame. The radiator is also mounted to the frame. The fan shroud is mounted to the radiator, which is mounted to the frame. When you lift the body, the fan/radiator is not affected at all, since they are all mounted on the frame...
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Fan didn't need to be touched on mine cause as digger mentioned it is all attached to the frame.
I didn't touch the steering shaft (which I didn't disconnect but still got the lift on...not recommended becuase I am pretty sure that is the reason why my front tire was coming off the ground). I also didn't pay attention to the O2 sensor and stretched that to the point it shorted out. I did remember the air intake hose
I extended the shifters and bent them a bit to fit better but the shifter boot now puts a lot of pressure on the shifter and want to pop them out of gear. Anyone do anything different for this?
Also anyone know what the boot that goes on the shifter and attaches to the transmission is called? Mine was torn and I was in need of another one.
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these guys have all oem parts give them a try. And thanks guys for all the help http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214330
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Here's how I adjusted camber:
I removed the top bolt, then used an air hammer to push in the top of the knuckle, till it hit the strut body.
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0011-1.jpg)
I then used a die grinder to make the hole in the strut match the hole in the knuckle, and put the bolt back in.
(http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c180/uncivilized121/DSCF0014-1.jpg)
This was a little too much adjustment, tonight I'm doing a more acurate adjustment.
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Y would you do all that to the strut when camber bolts are $15.99 a set from O'reilly Auto Parts. Or will I have to add this on top of camber bolts.
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Y would you do all that to the strut when camber bolts are $15.99 a set from O'reilly Auto Parts. Or will I have to add this on top of camber bolts.
This was instead of camber bolts. If you are getting the camber bolts, you wont need to do this. Why? maybe because it was free... LOL!
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I'm sorry I though that you where going to do it the right way. LOL
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Actually, I DID. Both my rigs have camber bolts! ;)
LOL!
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Good had me worried for min.
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Y would you do all that to the strut when camber bolts are $15.99 a set from O'reilly Auto Parts. Or will I have to add this on top of camber bolts.
I'm in the lost part of Canada.... the only camber bolts I could find were Moog, and they were $39.99 each, so that's close the $100 with taxes, and I heard the cheap ebay camber bolts don't hold up and can break. As well as seeing this strut mod online, I've seen new aftermarket struts out of the box with this same slot adjustment, so I figured it must be safe. Once everything is set, I'm going to weld a washer to the strut on each side.
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WOW. I found mine at a local tire shop (Les Schwab) for 20 for the pair.