ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: daddyizzle on January 02, 2007, 04:07:22 PM
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I hear alot of people doing this. I have a stock 1.3 with the stock carb. I will be doing some things here in a week with the engine so I thought about porting the intake. I don't have any idea how to do it or if it would do anything for this engine. Maybe a waste of time. Sounds cool though. (port and polish)
What's involved and how do you do it. Or is it a waste of time with the stock setup?
I sure don't want to toast an intake with one of my sick experiments!
-Adam
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Still contemplating.
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check out the post flowed an intake on page 2 of this forum
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I saw that, but I don't understand what to be looking for when doing it. I'm afraid of going too far or not enough. Am I just matching the ports to match up with the carb and block? Was this not done in the manufacturing process? Also still wondering if it would improve the performance or just make the inside look purdy.
-Adam
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if you make a template to fit the head then check it to the intake.
it does help performance to remove obstruction
Ross
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Is it necessary to do it on the carb side too? As well, do I only port the actual opening(s) or do I kind of polish out the whole inside and remove any bumps. I have never got into an engine except for changing out distributors and carbs or changing clutches, but I'm willing to give it a shot. It sounds like you have to fine tune the gaskets as well?
-Adam
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WHEN I DID ONE I DID ALL I COULD REACH IN REASON. ENGINE SIDE ONLY IS WHAT I DID
THE SMOOTHER IT IS THE BETTER IT FLOWS.
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Thanks Ross. I will try it. I'm going to get a spare in case I go bezerk and wipe it out. I still don't understand why the carb side doesn't get done but if you say it doesn't need it or won't make a difference, I'll skip it. I have a dremel I think will do the job. Don't know which accessories to use. Let me know if there is anything else I need to look for while I have it off as far as the port job or carb adjusts, engine stuff etc.
-Adam
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you can dothe carb side if you want. it can't hurt . when you grind watch for water jackets.
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Thanks again! Maybe I'll just polish it throughout and only port the block side.
-Adam
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When porting and polishing it's basically like this...
The more you do (both sides) the farther you go the better it works.
Yes it does make a difference...I port/polish all the engines I build even if they are just a straight overhaul.
Go slow, be careful and don't go any farther than you are comfortable. Use the new gaskets you will be installing as your templates if this is your first time trying porting.
If you are going through the effort make it nice and smooth.
Done well it really lights off when you add a header and intake mods.
Zag
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Porting both the intake and exhaust will greatly improve flow. Polishing makes a difference with exhaust, as you want waste gasses to move out with little resistance.
As for polishing the intake, it's less important. In fact, you don't want it to be too smooth. Turbulance will assist in creating a better fuel/air mixture. Port the intake so it flows better. Port & Polish the exhaust to match the intake flow increase.
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thanks everyone for all the tips and advise.
-Adam
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Autozone says expect 3 H.P. gain by porting both sides. 10 if you polish good.
Hawk says that there is a lot of talk about it but mostly just talk. Who actually dynos there engine to verify it. Would be a waste of time unless you are porting the carb side for a weber. There is not much there to work with to begin with. He said to not polish it at all because the rough surface helps with combustion by mixing the gas and air. This was Ricks opinion. He also said that the block side of the manifold was already mated to the block(not in those exact words) and the hitachi carb is already suited to the manifold as is.
Hmmmmmmm........
-Adam
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Autozone says expect 3 H.P. gain by porting both sides. 10 if you polish good.
Hawk says that there is a lot of talk about it but mostly just talk. Who actually dynos there engine to verify it. Would be a waste of time unless you are porting the carb side for a weber. There is not much there to work with to begin with. He said to not polish it at all because the rough surface helps with combustion by mixing the gas and air. This was Ricks opinion. He also said that the block side of the manifold was already mated to the block(not in those exact words) and the hitachi carb is already suited to the manifold as is.
-Adam
I think Autozone are talking rubbish. Hawk talk a lot of sense though. Without any other mods there is little to be gained, the carb is the restriction not the manifold. I wouldn't rip the manifold off to port it but if it is already off then a few hours spent cleaning it up doesn't cost anything. The manifold is a fairly rough casting so there are potential gains to be had. The manifold/block porting suffers from production tolerances as do gasket apertures, from my experience they don't match up too well. If you read my other post I was port matching a 1.3 manifold to a 1.6 head, there is a big difference in port sizes which would create a lot of turbulance in the port. I only did the intake side, I was lucky, the 1.3 exhaust manifold matches the 1.6 head pretty well, on the 1.3 head its not very good at all!
You'd really have to do some development work on a flow bench to see if you could get any decent gains out of a stock setup. I don't know whether the gains would show up on a dyno.
If you do enough insignificant mods they can add up to a significant difference and if you have the tools then it only costs you your time.
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Thanks Rhinoman. It's not off right now. I will look into it when I have the carb off to see if I can see down inside just to see how well it matches up. I don't know if there will be a veiw or not. I'll probably leave it alone for now. If it runs good once I finish doing what I plan on doing with the carb, I will leave it alone awhile longer.
I want to get fuel injection later anyways and maybe that will require porting. I want a performance head, cam, header etc. So it's kind of hard to decide just where to start. In the meantime, maybe a whole engine will show up with everything already to go. Maybe one of the Reynolds ones I've seen here.
-Adam
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I saw that the question, "do you have to alteter the gasket"
From all the porting i have seen, you lay the gasket over the ports, and the gasket is much bigger than the stock ports, you use layout die and somthing to etch a line around the gasket. That is how big you are supposed to go on the size.
Amilla
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One of those everyone is right questions....
I have spent the money on the dyno
Stock, Ported stock, Modified-unported, Modified-ported
I can say that Stock and ported and cleaned up you would probably never feel it in the seat of your pants, but our results showed about 3hp...depending on how bad you stuff matches stock will depend on actual results (not to mention actual quality of work)
I would agree I would not tear apart and engine to do it unless the engine is already apart and you have the time and the tools.
But once you start modifying the game changes...with multi carb intake, header, cam Ported was about 10hp (if memory serves) vs unported.
So if you are rebuilding and plan on mods down the road...do it while it's apart. If it runs good now and you plan no mods...don't waste the time and energy for something you won't feel.
Zag
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you would be better off putting money into a header if all you are going to use is a stock carb.but if you are putting a weber go ahead and do it. have swirrels on the intake side as everyone has said and match the gaskets up but if you want to make power put your energy on the head by matching gaskets and again swirrels on the intake side and smooth exhaust side. if you just match the gaskaets up will make a little difference
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Sounds like you're telling me that it's better to port and polish the head if I'm understanding you correctly. You also say that a header would be good with the stock carb. Wouldn't that throw the jetting on the carb off?
-Adam
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My opinion, and it seems others, is that if the engine is currently running fine and there are no problems leave it alone and put your money into bolt-ons (header, aircleaner, speed reducing crank pulley). If you are going to rebuild it then it's worth the effort to do it right and do a full port and polish.
Like I said earlier, I don't think you could feel the difference of the porting and polishing on a stock engine, but if you are rebuilding anyway and add a header, intake mods and a cam it makes a much bigger difference.
Comes down to best value for time and money....if you are not overhauling then header etc gets you the best value.
Zaggy
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Everyone knows that all real power comes from the head sure you can bolt on performance but if you want to really add power put bigger valves in it and have your head ported and polished.
Add an alum. intake for the amount of wieght you loose would make up for the power gained in porting a stock manifold you want a aftermarket carb as well with a header. So lets see 365.00 for a weber 150.00 for header and a manifold is probaply 185.00. Oh if you plan on being hard on it and it's a manual you'll need a centerforce df clutch thats about what 285.00 to 350.00 depending on where you buy it. It is a expensive sport or hobby when you think of it. I have to go finish my axles now I'm almost done brakes and lube and I'm ready to break it again you got ta luv it. :P :P
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Sounds like a plan. I better start up my secret savings account now. ("Sure honey, I got all this work done for under $100.00!") Ha Ha!
-Adam