ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: 96track on December 19, 2004, 10:50:43 AM
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ok guys
I flat towed my 96 tracker automatic today, here what I did, I put the trans in nuetral and t-case in nuetral and after a 10 mile drive at speeds of 55 I stopped to find out that there was gear lube everywhere. I started freaking out thinking that I just fried my BRAND new 4.24 t-case gears, but after furthur inspection everthing seems to be fine. my ? is should I have taken the driveshaft out and where did all the gear lube come from?
any help would be appreciated.
thanks
pat
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leave the t case in 2wd, I heard that when the t case is in neutral it acts kind of like its in 4wd and all the gears turn .. so its better to just have it in 2wd.. I was told this by our local "suzuki expert" haha.. made sence to me though, I flat tow my LJ 80 buggy to the trails and leavin the case in 2wd is the only way to go, or else it tows like crap and makes bad noises :-/ hope that helps a little... also where was all the gear lube? like where did you find it when u stopped?
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Ask 5 people and get 5 different answers. I have heard that you should put the transmission in park and the T-case in neutral for flat towing. Sounds like a seal either isn't seated right or got munched during the install...
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I'm with digger on this one the Real Red Wagon is an auto and I always flat tow with the t-case in neutral never had that problem :o. sounds like a seal ???
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thanks for the comments, the lube was all over the place but a great deal of it was on top of the t-case and some even on my trans pan. is there a seal on top of t-case? can I change seals without dropping case?
thanks
pat
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forgot to add that I have allready wheeled her 2 times after gears where installed with no leakage but I did sumerge it on my last trip and had to drain and refill.
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I know it sucks, but it is best to pull the shaft. I just pull it at the axle and tie it up under the truck, make sure that you secure it well, both sides of the splines. (you dont want to loose half your shaft on the way there)
I can pull/install a shaft in about 2 mins. Heck it probaly took longer to type this.
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I have flat towed my 97 many miles with no problem. Transfer case in neutral and auto in park. Only thing the odometer keeps turning. Mine has been flat towed about 30,000 miles.
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I have flat towed my 97 many miles with no problem.  Transfer case in neutral and auto in park.  Only thing the odometer keeps turning.  Mine has been flat towed about 30,000 miles.
Ditto. I have pulled mine on a dolly with both in neutral with no problems. If I was going on a long trip I would pull the driveshaft. to the guy asking about the oil, what's low ??? If the tcase is low, then I'm guessing it came out of it ;)
Brian
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Tow it backwords. Thats the way i towed my samurai when i blew it up. It worked great, p.s you can get a tow dolly for about $500 and use it for any car.
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my tracker was pulled back and forth across the US behind a motor home several times and never had the DS pulled..the car works like new and has no side effects from it
it is a myth to pull the DS if everything is working properly putting the shifters to N will mean its totaly free wheeling..but everything has to be working properly
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You guys can do as you please, I have seen driveshafts slung out of a towed vehicle (granted, that would not be "working properly" as was previously suggested) The other concern that I have is I have heard of T cases being jolted or bumped into gear and then trying to turn over the motor and destroying stuff. Your 4 minutes worth of time now just cost you a heck of a lot of $$$
Also a sammy is supposed to have the T case in N and the tranny in 2 when flat towing to help lubricate the bearings. You still need to stop every 200mi and run things around to ensure good lubrication. (This is according to Suzuki)
With a sammy T case N actually locks the front and rear driveshafts together, thats another reason for ne to pull the shart.
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I'd imagine that the safest way is to disconnect drive lines at the diffs.
No questions that way.
~Nate
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We need a full floater with lockouts!!!
Wild was working on something like that. He mentions it every now and then.
I might end up with a dana 44 and then get a floater/hub lock kit.
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We need a full floater with lockouts!!!
Wild was working on something like that.  He mentions it every now and then.
I might end up with a dana 44 and then get a floater/hub lock kit.
The full floater and hubs are easy but the axles cost more than it would be worth. unless you have a mil with the right tail stock then you could respline stock axles to fit stock front hubs.
Thanks
Wayne
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Yep, axles would be about $350 ea :o
Really it's not that much, but for stock
size axles, I wouldn't pay that much.
I need to see if I can swap a 27 to 30
spline side gear in there instead, perhaps
Toyota Hubs or the guts thereof into
a Sam/Track/Kick hub, this would be as
strong as a Dana 44 I think and worth
the $$, also it might be easier to find the
splined stock Wayne speaks of, could drop
the overall cost to a similar figure as the
Calmini replacement axles for the Track/Kicks
Wild
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Yep, axles would be about $350 ea  :o
Really it's not that much, but for stock
size axles, I wouldn't pay that much.
I need to see if I can swap a 27 to 30
spline side gear in there instead, perhaps
Toyota Hubs or the guts thereof into
a Sam/Track/Kick hub, this would be as
strong as a Dana 44 I think and worth
the $$, also it might be easier to find the
splined stock Wayne speaks of, could drop
the overall cost to a similar figure as the
Calmini replacement axles for the Track/Kicks
Wild
$350 is not that much but for half that I got d44s for the jeep and for $350 I will have them under there with a rear locker.
I know thw yota stuff will go into a sammy hub you need to cut it but I cant remember where or how much. but it will go in. Are they 30 spline? ive never thought to count ??? I think your side gears would be the prob with only 26 or 27 slines. me presonaly I want the weak link out at the hub. easier to change on the trail.
some time next year I should get the clocking tail stock for the mill, then I will try to cut some full floating axles out of the stockers see if I can make it work.
Thanks
Wayne
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I will try to cut some full floating  axles out of the stockers see if I can make it work.
Won't the stockers be way too short to use? I think you would need them longer to get them into the hubs.
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Won't the stockers be way too short to use?  I think you would need them longer to get them into the hubs. ÂÂ
yeah you may be right but axles are plentiful at my place ;) I may have to cut down something else.
thanks
wayne
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Man, I got to get over there and play
in your toy shop :D I could build all
sorts of funstuff with the machines
you have
Sammy and Track/Kick rear axles are 26
splines, I'm looking for easier to get splined
axles and gain some strength, tho I have
only slightly twisted a rear axle, doing donuts
in a sand wash at Tierra Del Sol, and ripped
up a 60 Lb boulder, as well as lunched a 235
AT short tread tire, no biggy, but this was under
9 PSI boost ;D, I made the axle into a rear axle
puller, just to get the rear of Shoyrtt's Sammy apart
Wild
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Man, I got to get over there and play
in your toy shop  :D  I could build all
sorts of funstuff with the machines
you have
Sammy and Track/Kick rear axles are 26
splines, I'm looking for easier to get splined
axles and gain some strength, tho I have
only slightly twisted a rear axle, doing donuts
in a sand wash at Tierra Del Sol, and ripped
up a 60 Lb boulder, as well as lunched a 235
AT short tread tire, no biggy, but this was under
9 PSI boost  ;D, I made the axle into a rear axle
puller, just to get the rear of Shoyrtt's Sammy apart
Wild
Was thinking about it and a long side sammy axle should be long enough to cut splines on. I hear all sorts of axle breaking stories but never see much proof at least for the rear. Birfs are another story.
Lots of my toys are not mine they are friends that don't have the room or I trade work for the use of their stuff. I do have a good shop but not a full mahine shop ......yet ;D
I need your imagineering input on a little project I got going so after the holidays we gotta schedule some shop time.
Thanks
Wayne
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Jim want's to know when I was going to see you,
I was thinking about between Christmas and
New year, but I don't know if you have time as
it's a busy time of year. PM me with some ideas
of your project, I can start the wheels spinning
and be working on it before I get there
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Well according to Suzuki, the way you should tow a manual trans Suzuki is to put the transmission in second gear and the t-case in neutral. That way you won't have any parasitic drag from the trans trying to turn. The trans wasn't designed to turn idley like that for great distances. The auto you put in park and the case in neutral. Hope that helps. If you don't want the extra miles from flat towing, remove the speedo cable at the t-case.
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ok guys
I flat towed my 96 tracker automatic today, here what I did, I put the trans in neutral and t-case in neutral and after a 10 mile drive at speeds of 55 I stopped to find out that there was gear lube everywhere. I started freaking out thinking that I just fried my BRAND new 4.24 t-case gears, but after further inspection everthing seems to be fine. my ? is should I have taken the driveshaft out and where did all the gear lube come from?
any help would be appreciated.
thanks
pat
I made an A frame up yesterday and towed mine about 6 Km with the hubs unlocked, G/Box in 2nd, T/case in neutral (all as the owners manual said) and got the same thing oil p!ssing outa the T/case which has done less then 10 hr's work since new 4:24s when in.
All my seals are new so it's got me stumped as well.
I'm going to tow my G/Friends one with stock T/case gears the same way just to check and see if it's some thing to do with the 4:24's but I can't see it making any difference ???
Looks like I'll be dropping the D/Shaft from now on.
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I am with you, the safer the better. gears are not cheap. one scare is one too many for me.
pat
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Make sure the breather vent is
screwed into the T-case, could
be oil just slinging out of the case.
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I think mine had some thing to do with the water/oil mix I found in the T/case tonight
It appears that in my rush to put it back together I :-[ forgot to put the rubber boot on the T/case lever down properly thus allowing sh!t loads of water to get in which appear to looked like foamed oil coming out.
I think I'll have another crack at towing it and see what happens with out the water. ;D
It still won't keep me out of the water thou ;D
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/dartmoore.JPG)
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No, that would have been foaming
water and oil coming out, oil goes to
the top when water is in it, drain, change
and re-drain, you might have to flush
it twice to get the water out
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Wild,
G/box oil and water mixed throughly looks like white sauce, I seen it many times - hence why I oil sample everything in the Escudo even the power steer oil ::).
after river wheeling
I drained it, flushed it with a mild degreaser then twice again with diesel until it ran clean then put fresh oil in it which will be dropped after a few hr's wheeling.
Checking and dumping oil is just another thing you get use to if you play in water alot, along with C/Vs and diff housing etc etc ;D ;D.
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;) Good Job
Sorry to see your cracked diff
housing, see those rust marks
from the bracket moving, thats
what kills those (right side)
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;) Good Job
Sorry to see your cracked diff
housing, see those rust marks
from the bracket moving, thats
what kills those (right side)
Yip, but those bolts wont be a problem when I get my Anvil ;)
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I would put in an Anvil, but I can't
afford it, I'll build one if I need it