ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: museboy07 on May 13, 2007, 05:53:59 PM
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Ok I went out today to put on my 2in coil spacers. I decided to do the front first to get the hard part outta the way. Well I set the car up on jack stands and placed a jack under the one control arm. I took off the top strut bolt and lowered the jack. The control arm wouldn't go down far enough to pull the coil out so I took off the sway bar. That helped a little as I had to push the control arm down with alot of pressure to pull the spring out. As I was pushing down the control arm the axle shaft started to come out of the diff. That wasn't a problem as I just slid it back in. But moving on...I put the spacer on the bump stop and tried to put the spring on. THERE WAS NO WAY THIS WAS GONNA HAPPEN!! The damn control arm would not go down far enough to put the spring back on. It just wouldn't go down enough. At this point I was really pissed and said f**k it and put everything back to normal. I figured I'd come on here and ask you guys before I mess something up. Guys please help. Thanks in advance.
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Try also unbolting the tie-rod end from the spindle. That should give you more droop. Plus if your front spacers are 2" tall, you will have a bear of a time getting the spring back in, in addition to the problems down the road with the CV cages pulling apart...
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spring compresser will help some but i had the same prob with my 2 door i put the 4 door springs on then tried to do spacers (2") with out having the strut extenders it was a pain but i got it done then i ordered the strut extensions from BDS without them your ride is very ruff
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I just don't get it. So many ppl on here did it without any problems. John1974 put 3in lift springs on with no problems...I can't even get my damn spacers on!
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If i detatch the tie rod should that be enough so i can move the control down far enough? Cause i was reading the "how to put coil spacers on" write up on here and they say to take out the cv shaft...i don't wanna have to do that...
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If i detatch the tie rod should that be enough so i can move the control down far enough? Cause i was reading the "how to put coil spacers on" write up on here and they say to take out the cv shaft...i don't wanna have to do that...
???
Tim:
I hope I don't come off as a jerk, but since you are no longer answering your IM's, I thought I'd just check your recent posts. Since you started this topic, I'll use it to contact you about the 4 door 'Kick springs that YOU PM'd ME about. So, Here I am. If you want 'em, they're still packed (& have been since at least 4/20) with your addy on the label, waiting for that ASAP M/O you keep saying you're sending since 4/17, up until your last IM on 5/1. Sorry to seem a bit irritated, & if the M/O is in the mail, I'm very sorry to contact you like this. They'll go out within 24 hours of receiving it. If it's not, no big deal. If you found some somewhere else, decided you don't want 'em for whatever reason, or whatever else... just let a guy know. Good BBS manners, ya know... Have a good one, Bud.
Scott
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I unbolted/pulled out the CVs and it really helped.
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If i detatch the tie rod should that be enough so i can move the control down far enough? Cause i was reading the "how to put coil spacers on" write up on here and they say to take out the cv shaft...i don't wanna have to do that...
Taking out the CV shaft is no big deal. I doubt that you'll get the springs on there with them in place.
You could also just remove the circlip from the hub, that will let the CV slide out a bit and let it drop down further. You just need to ensure that you don't let mud and stuff get into the bearing.
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Yeah, I pulled the CV's, no biggie.
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Do your strut mount flip, or whatever you plan on doing to extend the strut first before you put in the spacers, it will give a little extra room for the spring and spacer.
Dave
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Everyone has their own "easy" way to do this, but i've never seen it done easier than this...
Remove the sway bar link (I just take the sway bar completely off and leave it off)
Support the control arm with a floor jack
Remove the 3 nuts holding in the lower ball joint
Drop the control arm down as far as you want (it will go all the way out of the way)
Catch the spring as you're lowering the control arm down.
Put in your spacer (not sure if 2" spacer is such a great idea)
Put in the spring and line up the control arm to hold the spring in place
Jack up the control arm until it's correctly in place and reinstall the lower ball joint.
The strut assembly will hold the spindle and cv and all that other gear in place
Removing the struts is not necessary
Removing any of the steering joints is not necessary
Removing or disconnecting the cv's is not necessary
All that needs to happen is for the spring to come out so you can throw in a spacer, and this is the simplest way.
JUST BE CAREFUL TO NOT LOWER THE JACK TOO QUICKLY, as we may not see any more posts from you after that happens.
This is also the way to replace/remove the control arm if you want to replace the bushes or whatever.
On a side note - I think most people only use 1.5" thick spacers on the front, not a full 2".
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The only potential problem with crikeymike's procedure that I see is the possibility of rusted bolts. Those 3 bolts on the lower joint can be a bear sometimes! LOL!. Soak them with PB blaster or similar and it should help. I don't recomend using heat from a torch as you might melt the ball joint's boot...
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ok that is the way i will be going to install mine i think i wil be doing the mount flip first and then the spacer install. thank youo
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I always forget about the "rust aspect" up here, since there isn't a lot compared to you northerners...
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Another problem I ran into, in 95 suzuki changed the lower control arm to "box" in the ball joint plate(the 3 bolts) simply prying it down wasn't an option, but in my thread, I was told just unbolting the ball joint was the way to go, I didn't see enough room because of the CV cup, but it was too late ;)
Dave
Here's the thread, also shows our strut mount flip, with exhaust flanges, for a 2" drop.
http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=13859.0
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Another method (for 99s and up, anyway...):
The steering rack is held on by 4 easily-accessible bolts on 99-up Track/Vit/GV. Undo those bolts, (letting the rack hang), disconnect the anti-sway bar and remove the c-clip from the hub and you can pretty much drop the control arm down as low as you please.
Respect the spring, though. Respect the spring.
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I unbolted/pulled out the CVs and it really helped.
how do i pull the cv shafts out? If i take the whole hub off i don't see no circlip its a big nut and a washer i think...how do i get the cv shaft out??
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We're talking about the inner ends of the cv shaft, where it goes into the front third housing. the passenger side is held into the side gears inside the diff by a round springy clip that rides in a groove on the inner end of the shaft, inside the housing. To remove this side, gently pry it out of the housing and be careful not to lose the clip as you slide the end out of the housing. To put it back, make sure the clip is in the groove and slide it back in all the way until it's seated. The driver's side is really easy, it is bolted to a flange at the diff housing, just remove the 3 bolts holding the flange to the cv and it's off. To put it back, just line it back up and put the 3 bolts back.