ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: nevadasmith on November 26, 2004, 02:17:51 PM
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I looked at calminis rockslider but I think they hang down to far. So after crushing my rocker pannel today, now I'm thinking of cut out the rounded part of the rocker pannel(like all the way to the lowe seam)with a plasma cuter and getting some 3x3x.120 or .095 tube and welding it in and then having the bottom 10" of my tracker rino lined to hide some of the ulgy ness.
Is this a bad Idea? has anyone got somthing beter?
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I've thought about something simuliar, but was waiting so see someone else try it first and see what it looked like. However I know what the trail modified rockers look like all to well, I've two of them still attached.
I was looking at Rocky Road's rock slider's due to not running a Body lift. They also looked a bit stouter.
If anyone else has better info I'm interested also.
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Actually I have plans on re-doing my rockers. I've crushed them both in pretty good. What I'm planning on doing is cutting the existing rockers off at the crease below the doors and welding in a long piece of 2" square thick wall tubing in their place. then I plan on filling in the underside from the square tubing to the body with a long piece of 3" wide by1/4" thick flat stock welded in. This will effectively replace my rockers with thick wall steel and give me something to slide across rocks on as well as give me more places to use my HiLift jack...
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i'm running 3" body lift, and i can see the chassis rails quite clearly from the sides.
a lot of people here (australia) make rock sliders that bolt to the chassis rails, and so there is no need to cut the actual body.
so i was thinking, i could just use some 2" or 3" square tube for the actual sliders, and use some 2" sq tube for the arms that hold the slider to the chassis.
although this will reduce the sill to ground clearance, it will still be higher than the clearance under the actual chassis rails.
does anyone have any pics?
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if i were to make sliders id cut the pannel off and rig it up so the rockers were welded/bolted to the frame but went as snug as i could get it to what is left of the body
welding in a bar to the body may not be a bad thing but i dont know if id want the mass of the sus/frame suspended by the body mounts if i were to come down really hard on a rock. if it were bolted to the frame i would have alot more confidence it smashing my way down a hill :o
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Yea, I thought about that.  I used 2x4 steel square tube, Now looking back I have little to no side protection.  If I were to do it again I'd use 2x6.  I'll probally try to fab in some unber body boat side sliders (frame to rocker) and maybe some fancy tube to give a little more door protection.  Mine is just stitched into the sheetmetal but the thin stuff it attaches to will hold the weight of the truck, Tested it last time out (Smashed down on a few rocks).  The 2x4 Tube fit sung in the rocker pocket.  I just cut a notch out of the top of the 2x4 for the inside B-pillar support.  Once you open it up you will seee what I mean. ÂÂ
Mine are snug to the bottom of the doors and filleted on each end to match the inner fender line.
In the first picture their is a small line about .5" down form the top of the rocker.  This is the original rocker Sheetmetal foled & hammered over to new square tube and seem wleded, ground and smoothed.
(http://www.zuwharrie.com/gallery/albums/userpics/fall_2004/DSC00149.jpg)
Yes one side is black and the other side is hammer coat silver.  I couldn't decide, But I think I like the black.
(http://www.zuwharrie.com/gallery/albums/userpics/fall_2004/DCP_2012.jpg)
(http://www.zuwharrie.com/gallery/albums/userpics/fall_2004/DCP_2013.jpg)
(http://www.zuwharrie.com/gallery/albums/userpics/fall_2004/HPIM0177.jpg)
(http://www.zuwharrie.com/gallery/albums/userpics/fall_2004/HPIM0176.jpg)
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I'm looking into rocksliders to - I understand some are fixed by clamping against the chassis rail with plates inside and outside the rail. Is this right, can such a mount take the leverage of coming to rest on a boulder, or more practically, using a hi lift under them?
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[quote author=whitfield ÂÂ
Mine are snug to the bottom of the doors and filleted on each end to match the inner fender line.
In the first picture their is a small line about .5" down form the top of the rocker.  This is the original rocker Sheetmetal foled & hammered over to new square tube and seem wleded, ground and smoothed.
([url]http://www.zuwharrie.com/gallery/albums/userpics/fall_2004/DSC00149.jpg[/url])
[/quote]
Thas exactly what i had in mind do you have any regrets or any thing youd do different?
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http://www.difflock.com/cgi-bin/discus/board-auth.cgi?lm=1084211311&file=/4855/29329.html
this is a link to how i made my rocksliders. ;D
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Thas exactly what i had in mind do you have any regrets or any thing youd do different?
I'd use wider Square tube (2x6 instead of 2x4). When I rub/pivot on rocks I have to watch the doors. If my rails were wider, sticking out 2 -3" past the doors, I'd be less worried.
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[url]http://www.difflock.com/cgi-bin/discus/board-auth.cgi?lm=1084211311&file=/4855/29329.html[/url]
this is a link to how i made my rocksliders. ;D
Private discussion board, Members only
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were building some for jens tracker, already cut out the rocker part and shes just in the process of welding it all up. heres a pic of it with the rockers cut out, and as u can see the bottom part of her paint is all rockgaurd, it actually doesnt look bad atall.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v455/trev_guy/mini-100_0647.jpg)
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yes thats what i had in mind for the pain/bedliner skeem except kawi green on top and 02 doge yellow bedliner on the bottom!!!
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Private discussion board, Members only
as far as i am aware the forum is open to all to view,you only need to register to post.
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as far as i am aware the forum is open to all to view,you only need to register to post.
sorry,just checked,the forum is open but the link i sent is in the archive which can only be accessed by registered users.
why not register,its free and you may learn a thing or two from us limeys? ;D
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I joined, nice forum and your rocksliders look good. :)
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I started to design some bolt on ones on Saturday but then after look at it again I decided that I'm going with weld on's as I think that more bolts hanging down off the chassis is just some thing else to hang up on (if you use the chassis for a slider like me ;D).
Mine are going to be 130x95x6 mm plate for the chassis mounting plate with 75x50x3mm RHS for every thing else. The front mount will be welded just behind the body mount under the A pillar and the rear just in front of where the rear control arm mounts are.
Heres a few pics of the profile,
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/slider 003.jpg)
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/slider 004.jpg)
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/slider 005.jpg)
I'll probably tuck them 25mm back under as I think they're sticking out a little much ???
If they flex to much I'll put some up rights to the floor to help, I hope to finish one tomorrow after work as I ran out of RHS tonight ::)
Shane
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Some gussets at the mount plate would be a good thing too.
Have you thought about rotating the outside slider to extend vertically up to sorta "wrap" the rocker?
Something like ...
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|-----| |
|-----|_|
|/
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I like the weld on the frame rocker ideia, Great for a clean bodied Track / Kic.  I'd keep an eye on the frame as the rocker guard welded on the arm to the frame might try to act like a leaver possiably bending and distorting the frame if it moves too much.  I would consider placing the square tube directly under the rocker so that if it did move (Bend the frame rail wall) once it hit the rocker it would stop.  :-X ÂÂ
  Just a thought, BUT  Your mounting plates are well made and should distribute the load enough across the frame where it isn't an issue.
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/slider%20004.jpg)  ÂÂ
My frame and frame side body mounts are dented from sliding on rocks.  I am now thinking of a (Boat side / Buggy style) skid that wraps around to the rockers.  (Cutting board / street sign /  ???  somthing small thin & Light weight)
Pics before rocker guards, Lots O Rust & dents.  Missing a few trim pieces too.
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/whitfimb/915049.jpg)
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Mud, Get a soft face hammer, like a dead blow
or a heavy rubber mallet and roll the sheet metal
seam on the bottom of the rocker sill, it will give
you a little more clearance, you might even work
the bottom of the sill to a little more flat shape
with the hammer and tuck those sliders right
next to the body.
I like the 75mm square tubing, I think that is a
little more robust for rock pounding, I would
change the angle on the square tubing a little,
so that the tubing is close to the bottom of the
frame, and higher than the sill on that end, then
use some angle to drop down to just below the
sill and out, then some more square or round tubing
for outside sill protection, this way you will gain
almost 100 mm more clearance, and then you could
add (bolt on) side skid plates to protect the body
mounts and rear track arm mounts. Now you are
just a tick away from a full belly pan ;D
Wild
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(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/slider%20003.jpg)
That is how mine are done, but pulled back where 1" is under the body and I placed mine as close to the body as possible (even folded the 1/2" body lip under to fit it against the rocker). Mine have not caused any frame damage and have been beaten for many years.
Zig
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Here is a quick pic of what I was saying
(http://wildcatent.freeyellow.com/sliders.jpg)
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I'd keep an eye on the frame as the rocker guard welded on the arm to the frame might try to act like a leaver possiably bending and distorting the frame if it moves too much.
Its surprising how much the frame will flex with the leverage. If you've seen pictures of MarkyB's roll cage then you will see the lengths that the guy who built it (Jon Gilbert) had to go to to stop the cage flapping about just from frame flex. If you can position the mountings near to the crossmembers then it will lessen the effect
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i had my mounts right up against the outriggers and bolted them through the riggers aswell as welding to the chassis.
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Here is a quick pic of what I was saying
([url]http://wildcatent.freeyellow.com/sliders.jpg[/url])
Hey that looks like the one's I made. And that's just what I did. I folded over the rocker lip. Welded it to the frame and then let it rest on the body. Well I RTVed it to the body so that it wouldn't rattle but would still have a little give.
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0WQCXAjMbfslvMrRA5uQg6AeADvwefW18YwX!HjJV8vpnUhBuHsvgFg3Q2aGFVN52QUPsUGh8TwFAq2npCVYVlrIIaIV4mlUa!1MX3ZopD*7pVvplr0BOz3XnPxfKC*KiYQoppNxRCjU/Rocker%20Gards%20005.jpg?dc=4675453281215318197)
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0WQARAzEb9shvMrRA5uQg6AeADvwefW18jl*k6UvhHWk7rFGVjH7h3kOrCiS4pd9YxuGy2PI1Npwn1Gz7!npVCTI9e!9VA8taw7LkYLPKP0h*4sWRaaZJBr62yXuzfNYY*A5aIGppBP8/Rocker%20Gards%20003.jpg?dc=4675453281709939357)
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0WQBHAzUbBspvMrRA5uQg6AeADvwefW18gmOeMpGAZNOrK!r7ddFVxHTWd6gIXjVhJH*5avNeGCi3X9gY6VKN8hMJK*t7OA7uusra7auvGfzmmIzGwlCkI7b0Fftdmyu!Po!yLwjtKiw/Rocker%20Gards%20007.jpg?dc=4675453281712648368)
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0XQARA1IbwuR8j3jx1Is5MXsPJQ9W2n4r!MzixXUL2BviefnAmzkjZXhK2YL8YPs06yPxMNyCfzJWhMYdIEqmxmRyoSTpxXMjaRV4STxcpHBzB0mUMdz6BU0lHqxtpaCc6kKSuFiBVdg/Sand-O-Rama%202003%20015.jpg?dc=4675453056924406194)
They really work great!!!
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Some good advise coming thru ;D,
I've flattened out the seams and raised the mounts up to near sitting on the sills,tucked the slider back under slightly but kept it sitting the same way (on the flat side as opposed to Snofalls idea) only as I want to be able to weld pipe work to it if necessary and I will gusset the the frame mount point too.
Once I have them mounted I'll take some pix for ya's
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Due to high winds most of the week and then today it's raining I haven't managed to weld them on yet but heres the finished design.
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/slider 009.jpg)
I tweaked the ends out a bit to make it easier to attach any tube work to later on.
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/slider 010.jpg)
Also left them just short of the gaurd ends incase of trimming needed for bigger tires, It looks sick with 30"s now with the Calmini 3" installed ::)
You can see from the 2nd pic how squashed my sills were before and thats after I put a length of 2x2" box section under the chassis with bit of chain off it and vise grips connecting it to the sill and pulled them in to shape again ???
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The wind died off enough tonight to get the MIG out side so there on at last !!
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/test.jpg)
Less than 5mm flex while up on the Hi Lift but I think I'll still look at bracing them a little.
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/mount front.jpg)
Front mount
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/mount rear.jpg)
Rear mount.
Probably just tie them off to the front body mount and rear control arm mount and that should do it. ;D
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Nice looking welds !!
I wish I had got the 220V mig now,
the 110V just doesn't quite have the
amps that I like to weld with, I use it
at the highest setting most of the time.
I guess since you are down under this
wasn't a choice for you, since your regular
voltage is 220 Stupid 110-115-120 all
depends where you are if you get one or
the others.
Good Work Mud
Wild
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Good looking welds.
One day I'll have a welder ;D
And then I will weld the nite away ;)
BTW: nice Rocksliders ;D
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Awesome welds man. Those aren't gonna come off!
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Nice looking welds !!
Good looking welds.
Awesome welds man
OK looks like I've now passed the Zukiworld welding judges visual test , thanks guys ;D
Wild,
We're 240v down here and the welder I have is a 210amp job which cost me huge $$$$'s but it should be the last one I ever have to buy (this is #3 in fifteen years :o).
Now there on I keep looking at them and thinking "EXO mounting points" :-/
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Exo Mounting Points ........ LOL
Evil Seed Baby, Evil Seed
;)
Wild
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those look awesome, beefy welds too