ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: dkevech on August 27, 2007, 06:13:24 PM
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i need to find out the timing for a 95 tracker 16v
your help will be very apericated
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6* is what i run mine at....its a 95 16v too
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8* is what the spec is, for a 95.
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Look under your hood and see the emissions sticker... it will tell you the proper BBASE timing while a jumper is installed on a diagnostic plug behine the passenger drive light.
Bet it says 5 degrees base timing with the jumper installed for factory spec...
Kelly
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Look under your hood and see the emissions sticker... it will tell you the proper BBASE timing while a jumper is installed on a diagnostic plug behine the passenger drive light.
Bet it says 5 degrees base timing with the jumper installed for factory spec...
Kelly
Yes, I would like to know what the sticker says.....my bet is on 8*, but I'm usually not very lucky. ;)
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16v's are 5 degrees btdc, 8 v is 8 degrees btc. It's easy to confuse them, but the FSM says 5 degrees BTDC for 16V or vin code 6. Both are ok +- 1.
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16v's are 5 degrees btdc, 8 v is 8 degrees btc. It's easy to confuse them, but the FSM says 5 degrees BTDC for 16V or vin code 6. Both are ok +- 1.
Hmmm. The chart I have says 8* for a 16V with VIN of 6. ??? I don't know where the chart is from, or where I got it....but it appears to be wrong, since I just checked the underhood sticker on my 92 16V and it says 5*.
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If it's a Chiltons or Haynes manuel, toss it or use it for fire starter. They are notoriously incorrect on a lot of issues. The GM FSM is the only reliable source.
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If it's a Chiltons or Haynes manuel, toss it or use it for fire starter. They are notoriously incorrect on a lot of issues. The GM FSM is the only reliable source.
No, it's neither one of those....it's a chart that lists a bunch of misc. specs and info....I found it online somewhere. ::)
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It must be a common mistake, when I first checked my timing after doing a new belt, it was also set at 8 degrees BTDC. I checked the FSM, and found it pretty confusing at first, trying to decipher between vin code 6 and vin code u, and finally figured out 6 is the 16v. If you just open the FSM to the timing section, on how to set etc, the index guides you straight to the 8v timing first. You have to go to a completely different section to get the 16v spec. Kinda screwy. On a completely different topic, how you coming along on your turbo project Shyhiranger? Mine was working great until my second long distance trip, a drive out to Ohio to pick up a camper trailer I bought. On the way back it started smoking whenever I let off the gas, like after a long hill climb. It was sucking oil past the seals on the turbine shaft, I think it's related to negitive pressure in the piping. In any case, the turbo is out to replace the seals, and I'm going to take a good look at simplifying the intake plumbing. Really miss the extra power.
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On a completely different topic, how you coming along on your turbo project Shyhiranger? Mine was working great until my second long distance trip, a drive out to Ohio to pick up a camper trailer I bought. On the way back it started smoking whenever I let off the gas, like after a long hill climb. It was sucking oil past the seals on the turbine shaft, I think it's related to negitive pressure in the piping. In any case, the turbo is out to replace the seals, and I'm going to take a good look at simplifying the intake plumbing. Really miss the extra power.
I haven't really had time to work on it.
I did finally find a mx3 turbo, seems to be in good shape.
I also picked up a fairly nice 96, 4 door, 5 speed, 2 wheeler, that I am seriously thinking about doing the turbo on, instead of putting the 16V in a 2 door.
The 96 had a rear end "clunk" in it, when I bought it.....turned out to be broken teeth....swapped in a spare 4.62 third (original was 5.12) I had, so the thing ought to haul a$$, especially with a turbo. 8) Also has about 160K on it, so I think I should rebuild it before I mod it.
That sucks, about your problem. Hopefully it will be a fairly easy fix. You didn't rebuild that turbo, before you put it in, did you?
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I didn't rebuild it, It was a rebuilt center section though, done by Turbo City in So. Ca. That's the prob with anything used, Just how USED was it? I'm still not convinced it's the turbo that's the problem though, I think I may have had a leak in my intake plumbing that was sucking air whenever I let off the throttle, and that sudden decrease in pressure actually pulled the oil past the seals, into the intake, and caused the smoking. It still ran fine, made boost like normal, just smoked on closed throttle. I could have lived with it, but smoke, leaks, and rattles bug the shit out of me. I'm just anal that way. You would definitly want to rebuild the engine before you turbocharged it, but that's the perfect opportunity to do it right, with lower compression pistons, stronger valves, etc.
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I know this isn't relevant to the timing, but it is relevant to the last post on the turbo issue. If the oil return line isn't big enough, the back pressure caused by the outlet oil will cause it to pressure up in the turbo housing, therefore causing a leak across the seal. Is your return line big enough?
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You would definitly want to rebuild the engine before you turbocharged it, but that's the perfect opportunity to do it right, with lower compression pistons, stronger valves, etc.
That's what I was thinking too. ;)
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I know this isn't relevant to the timing, but it is relevant to the last post on the turbo issue. If the oil return line isn't big enough, the back pressure caused by the outlet oil will cause it to pressure up in the turbo housing, therefore causing a leak across the seal. Is your return line big enough?
I'm using a scavange pump to return the oil, and up until all thye up and dpwn mountain climbing pulling the trailer I had no problems. I do think I need to vent the crankcase better, as well as shorten and simplify the intake and turbo air plumbing.