ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: KickTurn on August 28, 2007, 10:56:57 PM
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I've been poking around on clutch threads, but I haven't seen this problem come up:
In every shop manual and discussion that I've seen there are three clutch cable adjustments for a Sidekick: 1) pedal height (on the pedal assembly), 2) free play (the cable end nut), and 3) cable stretch/tightness (the two nuts on the bracket). Simple. However, on my '95 those last two nuts don't exist. Instead there's a rubber donut thing that doesn't look to be adjustable that fits into a special bracket. My new cable from Hawk is exactly like the one one the Sidekick. So, it looks like I can make the first two adjustments, but not the last. I've tried just using the end nut, but it seems like that should just adjust the free play. It seems like you've got to be able to adjust the cable relative to the engine bracket if you want to remove or add slack.
So, was this a change in 1995? What am I missing? Thanks.
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(http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=18686.0;attach=4169)
My 89, 97 and 98 all had this same cable. The two nuts shown in the pic adjust the cable casing tension and the adjuster and lock nut you use off of your existing cable adjust the pedal height/engagement location. I did not know you could adjust it at the pedal assembly inside the truck.
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I've been poking around on clutch threads, but I haven't seen this problem come up:
In every shop manual and discussion that I've seen there are three clutch cable adjustments for a Sidekick: 1) pedal height (on the pedal assembly), 2) free play (the cable end nut), and 3) cable stretch/tightness (the two nuts on the bracket). Simple. However, on my '95 those last two nuts don't exist. Instead there's a rubber donut thing that doesn't look to be adjustable that fits into a special bracket. My new cable from Hawk is exactly like the one one the Sidekick. So, it looks like I can make the first two adjustments, but not the last. I've tried just using the end nut, but it seems like that should just adjust the free play. It seems like you've got to be able to adjust the cable relative to the engine bracket if you want to remove or add slack.
So, was this a change in 1995? What am I missing? Thanks.
The clutch cable on my 92, 4 door is the same type....I hate it. The clutch "feel" is terrible. I have played around with the adjustments and I still don't like it. I have seriously thought about trying to swap a samurai cable on, so I can get the pedal travel to feel "right".
Sorry, I am no help, just putting my .02 in.
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Here's the cable that's causing me grief. Note that unlike Zukipilot's cable, this one does not have the two nuts for adjustment for cable stretch. So, how do you adjust for stretch on this thing without affecting free play?
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Is that how the one you took out looks? Does the other end look like the one in my pic?
Zig
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Yep Zig, that's an exact match for the old (original?) one. I do think it's the regular stock cable, because there is a bracket that fits the rubber donut/sleeve. So I think that Hawk sent the correct cable.
And yes, the rest of the cable is exactly like yours. So the only difference is the apparent lack of adjustability at the engine bracket due to the donut thing instead of the nuts. It's funny though, because I have yet to see a manual that addresses the configuration on my 95 Kick.
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the one on my 95 is just like yours kickturn. the one on my dads is like that too. the one on my 94 has the adjustable nuts on it.
but really there is not a lot of adjustments in these clutches except freeplay. if you cant solve the problem with the freeplay adjustment then you need a new clutch.
in my experience the reason the clutch cable goes bad is that the tension on the pressur plate is too firm causing the tension on the cable to ruin the cable sheething. unfortunatly the only perminent answer is to replace the clutch.
i may be wrong , but i can only speak from MY experiences, and every cable that has gone bad on my watch has eventualy resulted in the replacement of the clutch
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So locjaw, what have you done as the cable stretches on your '95?
If there's no way to adjust for cable stretch, I guess you just have to replace the cable every 30,000 miles or so . . . and even that's not very satisfying, because there is probably a good bit of stretch in the first 1,000 miles on a new cable.
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Wanted to bump this thread. Curious as to locjaw's answer. I just got a new cable from the local Zuki dealership and its the weird kind too (with the little black donut thingy). The original one on my kick, however was the other kind (with the 2 nuts). Will this matter? Should I see if Zuki has two different part #s and I just didn't get the right one?
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I might be wrong, but I think.......the difference in cables are between 2 doors and 4 doors (or it might be an 8V engine vs. a 16V engine thing).
From what I have seen, the "donut" type cable is found on 4 door trackicks, while the cable with the 2 nuts in the middle are found on 2 door trackicks (at least this is the case on the trackicks I have). I don't have any 2 door trackicks with the 16V engine....so I don't know if it is an 8V vs. 16V thing or not.
BLK_ARMR....to answer your question....yes, you need a different cable, since the "donut" type cable takes a different bracket on the engine than the "2 nut" kind.
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y cant u adjust it all the way on the end where it connects to the trans fork or whatever it is called ive never had to adjust it on the engine bracket
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It could be the weld on the pedal assembly like on another thread on this board.
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The difference in applications for that cable stop is if it has a newer 16V with the extra bracing on the bellhousing. I have seen a few newer 2 doors with that but mostly on 4 doors. The "adjustment" on the clutch pedal assembly should never be touched unless you are seriously a broke ass and are trying to squeeze another month out of a bad cable, very bad idea. They are set at the correct spot in the first place. The only way you can switch from the non-adjustable stop to the threaded version would be to get the block-bellhousing brace from the earlier 2 door application.
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Dang, my 95 4-door 16 valve has the 2-nut setup. And - I've never felt the need to adjust it, once I installed it. In 196,000 miles, I think I may have replaced it twice - but it may just be once. I know the last replacement was a few years ago, and it's still going strong. Now I'm wondering what kind I have on my 95 2-door 16 valve... Hmm. Of course, my wife has a hydraulic clutch on her 99 GV.
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Bump.
Any new thoughts on this over the last three years?
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Bump.
Any new thoughts on this over the last three years?
What kind of new thoughts are you asking about?
On my 92 I referenced previously, I ended up replacing the clutch (it was worn out) and that took care of the odd pedal feel that I was blaming on the cable setup.
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So locjaw, what have you done as the cable stretches on your '95?
If there's no way to adjust for cable stretch, I guess you just have to replace the cable every 30,000 miles or so . . . and even that's not very satisfying, because there is probably a good bit of stretch in the first 1,000 miles on a new cable.
i have found that the cable it's self doesent stretch a lot, but the cable casing does. after a couple years of contemplating this, i dont think there is a lot of adjustment with either cable setup, it either engages the clutch or not. if not, the answer is a new cable.
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Stock cables last 100K+ miles. If you get a good quality replacement cable, then it should last the same.
I think the cable that was on my 92 was the stock cable and it had 180K+ on it, when I sold it. Even if it wasn't, I drove it 50K+ miles and the cable was fine (it was the clutch that needed replaced).