ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: SnoFalls on November 18, 2004, 03:05:32 AM
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Hi all,
I'm doing my front spacers this weekend and was looking for some tips regarding the install.
I've got the wheels off, calipers hung outta the way, and rotors off.
Probably disconnect the stablizer and tierod tonight.
Book talks about pulling the hubs, ball joint castle, and knuckle hub assembly while dropping the arm. I also thought I read someplace that the arm will droop enough without disconnecting the knuckle/ball. Not sure which is the "best" way to go ...
One more thing ... I haven't relocated the brake line on the LH front yet. is that just a matter of drilling a new hole 2-3" lower and moving the place the line passes through the body? Would longer brakes lines be an alternative? (pros/cons either way)?
Would appreciate any tips from the experienced here.
TIA
Rob
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No you don't need to pull all that stuff apart. Do remove the swaybar.
1. Support the frame with jack stands.
2. Put a floor jack under the a-arm and lift it to take the pressure off of the coil spring.
3. Undo the three nuts and bolts holding the lower ball joint to the a-arm.
4. Pull the knuckle out of the a-arm.
5. Lower the floor jack, slowly!
6. Spring is now in your hand.
Cwkick
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cool sounds like I can leave the tierod on too
thx
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Yes, they are very flexible. If you leave the strut attached to the knuckle, you won't have to support it either. It will just hang.
If you do have some trouble, you can disconnect the strut from the knuckle. You will have to support the knuckle, but the thing will move just about anywhere.
Cwkick
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When I did mine, I jacked up the trucklet and put it on jackstands at the frame. Then I removed the front wheels, disconnected the tie rods and the sway bar links and removed the top strut nut(with the A-arm supported by a jack). That gave me enough room to remove my springs and insert the spacers. I also did the strut mount flip while I was at it...
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OOPS!
Forgot the strut mount flip! :-[
Cwkick
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A set of spring compressors will save you some grief as well ;)
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How are these springs as far as "popping" out at you?
I know I've heard the saftey tip of chaining the spring to the suspension before dropping the arm so that it won't go flying. Does that apply to these things?
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With a floor jack, mine came out very slowly and safely.
I didn't use spring compressors. I'm not sure how you would fit them in there. ???
Cwkick
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I've used a spring compressor twice, on mine and my brother's, it really moves the job along quickly on the front. You don't need it to remove the spring, just to install it back with the spacer. We rented the two piece set at Autozone. Some don't use them but if used correctly it makes the job easier IMHO. Careful placement of the compressor is key.
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renting spring compressors from a parts shop is something I'll think about ...
I'm goin to flip the strut mount, and I'm nearly to the point of just droppin the A anyway, so probably not going to get compressors now ...
Something I will DEFINETLY do if I decide to replace the RRO spacers with 2" versions.
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bummer ...
got the stab. bar disconnected, jacked the A, unbolted the strut, lowered the A, and the spring is loose, but it aint coming out. Even if it came out, I doubt I get it back in with the spacer.
I think the tierod might be hitting the stab. bar, so sat. morning, I'll disconnect the tierod, and if that doesn't doit, I'll try a set of spring compressors.
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http://www.zukiworld.com/month_050103/feature_wheelers_spacers.htm ;D
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I usually just pull the wheel place the jack under the lower arm and cut the 3 upper strut mount bolts loose. I have often changes out a few sets in an hr this way back when I was dialing in the 4-dr. Truck will need to be realigned (but you knew that).
Once the 3 nuts are loose just lower the jack with the frame supported on jack stands. I left everything else hanging. The CV's maxed and in a few cases the inner pass side pulled out of the diff. Just keep an eye on them and be careful. I was prying in some extra large springs with no spring compresser.
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It doesn't sound like you undid the three bolts holding the lower ball joint to the a-arm. Once you do that the knuckle isn't part of the equation. You are just working with the a-arm and the spring.
Cwkick
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I'll do the ball joint tonight. That does look like the best manner. (and yea I missed "Undo the three nuts and bolts holding the lower ball joint to the a-arm")
All makes sense now. Strange how everyone seems to have their own procedure for this :)
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Don't forget the sway bar, it
will stop you too, I have a 4"
longer spring in there, you
need to get the A-arm way down
to fit that sucker in there
Wild
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I'm going to completely pull the sway bar ... if I'm not happy with road manners I might consider reinstalling, but I doubt it.
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I bought my Tracker without a sway bar, and haven't thought about putting it back in.
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pulling the 3 bolts for the lower ball did the trick ... thanks Cwkick.
I'm going to do some research (and some measuremnets while I've got it "drooped"), but is the strut really the control on drop here ... wow.
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I wanna thank you all for answering my newb Q's ... I have yet to get a "piss off newbie" answer in here yet :)
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Yes the strut limits the droop. That is why you should flip the top strut mount. It will give you about an inch more droop. I wouldn't mess with trying to make it droop much farther or you will be tearing up CV joints left and right!
You are welcome for the help! :D Glad to be of service.
Cwkick
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Yes the strut limits the droop.  That is why you should flip the top strut mount.  It will give you about an inch more droop.  I wouldn't mess with trying to make it droop much farther or you will be tearing up CV joints left and right!
You are welcome for the help! :D  Glad to be of service.
Cwkick
I've been running a 2" strut spacer for 2 years with no problems as have a number of other people I know. I left the strut top mount stock. In stock form the strut has 2" of travel left with the wishbone against the bump stop so the 2" spacer gives max. travel (nearly 50% more than stock :D).
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Rhinoman,
I agree with what you are saying. But, SnoFalls would have to fab up some strut spacers. That's not a problem, but I think he is looking for the easiest and least expensive way to gain lift. Although the CV's have held up well for your group, I am guessing they are very close to there usable range of motion.
Since I have my mounts flipped, I may look into making a 1 inch spacer for a little extra droop. :D
Cwkick
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3" strut spacer is a little too long,
after 2 years of running like that
I had the CV balls riding on the wire
retainer at the edge of the cup, the
wire had dimples all around where
the balls contacted at full articulation
Down the road running should not
pose a problem, only extreem wheeling
;D
Wild
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For now I'm satisfied with just a strut mount flip, not too hard on the CV's but some articulation restricted. So a reasonable tradeoff (being easy is a nice benefit too :) )
Someday I might look into spacers ...