ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: dwcrisp on November 11, 2004, 12:18:57 PM
-
HELP HELP HELP
Installing the RR 2" lift kit and I sheared off the left front body mount bolt.  The one under the headlight.  I was loosening it and it sheared off!  The bolt sheared insided the capture nut at the lower end and now there is no way to release the piece still inside the nut.  I need a creative solution to this as now there is no connection at that mount whether I install the lift or stop.  Plus the nut is hard to get to!!!  What a mess!
I also sheared off 3 of 4 of the rear bumper bolts.  Now I cant remount the bumper whether I continue the lift kit or not!!  All the bolts are stuck in the holes with nothing showing above the capture nuts.
By the way I used penetrting oil and soaked the bolts for hours before starting.  I think there was just too much rust on the lower end of the exposed bolts.
I am stuck until I get a solution!!!
Byt the way it is a 98 Tracker 2 door 4WD with air and automatic
-
Rocky Road gives you new bolts for the ones behind the headlights.
-
You're probably going to have to drill out the remains of the bolts and re-tap the holes. Drill the studs out with a drill bit that's as close to the stud's size as possible, then replace the threads with a tap of the appropriate metric size(sorry, but I don't remember the size offhand)...
Perhaps you can help answer a question for me since I am about to tackle a body lift myself: what comprises or makes up the body mount? I know there is a mount on the frame, a stud sticking down from the body(on the sides) going through the rubber isolator. Is the stud that sticks down permanently attached to the body or is it a bolt? I haven't pulled my carpet yet to see if there is access to the tops...
-
Tn Tracker, I do have the new bolt but the old one is stuck down in the nut underneath. Im not sure I can even get a drill in the tight working space to drill it out
-
Digger,
The ones under the headlights are a bolt from obove running down into a capture nut in the top of the fender well area.
The middle ones behind the front wheel and in front of the rear wheel and the rear one behind the rear wheel (under the rear bumper which has to be removed) are all in some sort of capture nut that does not move.
There is also a pad between the 2 middle ones that has no stud at all I guess you just glue the new spacer in to the existing pad.
-
screw all that..do what i did..grab urself a friend with a welder and use it to weld ur body lift pieces to your body and frame ;D
-
Anyone also know the sequence of parts? Do you use the original rubber pads that were in between the frame and body? If so do they go above or below the new spacer?
Do you also use the old rubber pad that was below the frame mounting point with the new washer from the kit?
-
bioniconion, that's actually what I have planned, but I was only going to weld the spacers to the body, then bolt them through the side mounts, using longer bolts for the front and rear...
-
Tn Tracker, I do have the new bolt but the old one is stuck down in the nut underneath. Im not sure I can even get a drill in the tight working space to drill it out
Forget about that mount, It does little more
than hold up the headlights ;)
I drove 100,000 miles with no front mounts,
yes mounts, both sides, they really don't do
anything
As far as the others, be very accurate, use a
center punch and get the exact center of the
broken bolts, if you use a left hand drill bit
(available at Ace Hardware) the bolt will somtimes
come out looking like nothing more than threads,
but in your case I think the bolts were truly rusted
into place.
Jeeez a 98 and that much rust :o
I'm glad I don't live where you do
Good Luck,
Wild
-
my solution to broken front body mounts:
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/thegallery/albums/Tracker%20Shiz/newtires/mounted/3.front1.jpg)
Notice the yellow tiedown? yeah ;D
Only did it because I was jumping it in a field and my cousins noticed the front clip was flopping about... so I tied it down. Good as new ;D
-
my solution to broken front body mounts:
Only did it because I was jumping it in a field and my cousins noticed the front clip was flopping about... so I tied it down. Good as new ;D
That explains alot ;D
-
Here.
Read this Article
http://www.zukiworld.com/month_020101/feature_trickkick_01.htm
Should help
-
If you still want to try to fix the front mount to work right, you can rent or borrow a right angle drill, that would get in there fine...
-
Here.
Read this Article
[url]http://www.zukiworld.com/month_020101/feature_trickkick_01.htm[/url]
Should help
I just reread the article. It seems shorter this time.
They had the same problem with the broken bolt and blind  nut. it told how they fixed it.
(http://www.zukiworld.com/month_020101/images/tickkick_bodymount_02_large.jpg)
They cut it open to get to the nut.
-
Fagedaboutit
-
Wild, is your experience that the front end will maintain shape and is strong enough without that mount? If I can live without it I would try for a while instead of trying to drill it out . Does it affect the headlights or anything else?
-
Ya, it will be fine, and if you
have one mount, don't worry
about it now.
The front will remain in shape, and
I even rear ended a P/U Truck like
that, that was when I put a new front
on the frame, I spliced the frame, that's
when I did the 4" body lift and the new
front frame section had good body mount
holes, so I used them
-
Man I really appreciate everyones replies. I was so mad I lost track of the different ways to beat the problem. Now Im not lost on solving it.
Tomorrow back to the garage and fix this truck
-
Help is always here
Glad to be of Service
-
Heres a pix of my "home designed" 3" body lift (which looks 100% more professional than the shict your buying ???) If any one is interested in it I can supply or post full CAD drawings for you to copy from.
It can be machined from either alloy or UHMWPE and has captive bolts thru it to the original body studs.
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/rsbdlift.JPG)
Shane
-
HELP HELP HELP
Installing the RR 2" lift kit and I sheared off the left front body mount bolt.  The one under the headlight.  I was loosening it and it sheared off!  The bolt sheared insided the capture nut at the lower end and now there is no way to release the piece still inside the nut.  I need a creative solution to this as now there is no connection at that mount whether I install the lift or stop.  Plus the nut is hard to get to!!!  What a mess!
I also sheared off 3 of 4 of the rear bumper bolts.  Now I cant remount the bumper whether I continue the lift kit or not!!  All the bolts are stuck in the holes with nothing showing above the capture nuts.
By the way I used penetrting oil and soaked the bolts for hours before starting.  I think there was just too much rust on the lower end of the exposed bolts.
I am stuck until I get a solution!!!
Byt the way it is a 98 Tracker 2 door 4WD with air and automatic
Ya'll are making me nervous about doing a BL. Any chance a drill bit extension would let you reach it? Can you get to it from below?
-
Heres a pix of my "home designed"  3" body lift (which looks 100% more professional than the shict your buying  ???) If any one is interested in it  I can supply or post full CAD drawings for you to copy from.
It can be machined from either alloy or UHMWPE and has captive bolts thru it to the original body studs.
([url]http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/rsbdlift.JPG[/url])
Shane
That's an impressive solution. I was thinking about using aluminum tubing (anyone know if 6061 Al would be up to the task?) with a coupler nut to bridge the gap between the original bolts and some new ones.
-
Ya he made a trick BL there, I was
thinking about the "bridge" nut you
are thinking about but there is too
much Fab work, so I went with a screw
on solution, I have a threaded nut welded
to a plate inside the BL spacer and you just
take the old parts off, lift the body and screw
the spacer onto the old body stud, there is
also a bolt welded to the bottom that goes thru
the rubber origional mounts and a nut to pull
it all together.
If I were going this again, I would leave a place
to put a nut on the body studs so I could put a nut
on it and tighten it better, mine is a little squeeky
when they work around a bit
Wild
-
if anything else dosen't work then try welding a nut on top of the broken bolt. :-/
stu
-
fix this truck
Just thinking here a bit,
What about use a right angle drill, take the whole thread out of the nut (10.5mm drill bit) as your chances of re-tapping it are slim.
Then use some 10mm threaded rod and push it in the nut and weld around then top to give your self a stud then just use a nut on top. Could be easier than trying to fix the nut ???
BTW, that bolt is a 10 x 1.25 mm
Shane
-
Do this... Basically, I broke one too, just like you.  Although I'm not using plastic pucks and have no clue what you're using... but its a solution and a very easy one at that! :)
I did my whole lift for 70$ canadian :)
(http://thetreestump.mine.nu/Pics/monster%20zuki/monsterzook9.JPG)
(http://thetreestump.mine.nu/Pics/monster%20zuki/monsterzook10.JPG)
You can see the front blocks...
(http://thetreestump.mine.nu/Pics/monster%20zuki/monsterzook1.JPG)
GL my friend. If you don't have a welder, just install the 2 front blocks with upper bolt, they won't fall, than just drive to garage, they weld it in 6 minutes or less and you're safe :)
-
These tips and ideas are all great!  Now I have had to stop and go back to original gonfiguration with no lift.  Gas hose wont stretch far enough to work, brake lines cant be removed from mounts that are frozen, body mount nuts wont come free due to amount of corrosion on the studs, heater hoses have to be removed, air intake hoses dont stretch far enough and who knows what else wont stretch or move far enough?  Just too many problems right now to make the lift work so I am taking a break from it for a few weeks. ÂÂ
Also jp58, I found that I can get to the lower front nut from above with a drill and could drill it out but as was stated by wild I am OK without it for now. Drove 50 miles without it and nothing unusual noted. I might also try some of the other ways stated on this thread.
-
...Gas hose wont stretch far enough to work, brake lines cant be removed from mounts that are frozen, body mount nuts wont come free due to amount of corrosion on the studs, heater hoses have to be removed, air intake hoses dont stretch far enough and who knows what else wont stretch or move far enough?  Just too many problems right now to make the lift work so I am taking a break from it for a few weeks...
Holy cow! all these problems with just a 2"BL? I thought a 2" BL was supposed to be easier than a 3" BL...
-
Holy cow! all these problems with just a 2"BL? I thought a 2" BL was supposed to be easier than a 3" BL...
I really had very little trouble with mine but obviously rust has caused the majority of dwcrisp's problems.
Gas hose wont stretch far enough to work
Take the 4 bolts loose where the filler neck is bolted to the body and after the lift is done loosen the clamps and slide the hose out about 1/2" on either end, reinstall the 4 bolts and tighten the clamps
heater hoses have to be removed
I didn't need to touch mine but I did take the brackets off the A/C line above the radiator until I was done and had to rotate a spring clamp on the firewall to clear the distributor. Take the intake hose off until the lift is done. It's a stretch to make it work but it will work, just like the gas filler hose.
brake lines cant be removed from mounts that are frozen
The clips won't come off the struts? All I did was unclip them from the struts until the lift was done so they wouldn't be stretched while jacking the body.
Have you tried PB Blaster on the bolts? It's pretty good stuff.
-
Just one thing that I noticed with my 3" body lift: The heater lines don't have to be touched at all.
And yes, PB Breaker is a gift from the gods when working on rusty stuff (and yes, I know my rusty stuff... had to cut off 75% of the bolts when I installed the calmini lift it was that bad :P)
-
all my body mounts were fine, came off no problem, the one problem i did have where the large philips head screws holding the back bumper cover on were a pain in the ass
-
all my body mounts were fine, came off no problem, the one problem i did have where the large philips head screws holding the back bumper cover on were a pain in the ass
Lol, most of the bumper cover bolts are still in the frame on my Tracker, but the covers are off ;D
-
Well all of this advise is causing me to have confidence in the project again but I will wait a few weeks. Oh yea, And the phillips screws? stripped every one of them as well as some bolt heads. Used all new sockets, phillips screw drivers of the right size etc. I just have to redrill, retap etc lots of new holes and make the stuff I broke right again. And did I mention that I messed up the shift housing (auto shifter) in the center console. Its ok though I fixed it and it works as good as new.
Now I remember why when I was a house framer they never let me do the fine detail work. . . only the heavy stuff . . .
-
Now I remember why when I was a house framer they never let me do the fine detail work. . . only the heavy stuff . . .
the truth comes out! LOL!
I know what you mean though, I'm a heavy wrench myself. I'm just too much of a perfectionist and too stubborn to give up until it's right! LOL!
-
Well all of this advise is causing me to have confidence in the project again but I will wait a few weeks.  Oh yea,  And the phillips screws?  stripped every one of them as well as some bolt heads.   Used all new sockets, phillips screw drivers of the right size etc.  I just have to redrill, retap etc lots of new holes and make the stuff I broke right again.  And did I mention that I messed up the shift housing (auto shifter) in the center console.  Its ok though I fixed it and it works as good as new. ÂÂ
Now I remember why when I was a house framer they never let me do the fine detail work. . . only the heavy stuff . . .
Glad to hear you're going for it. Get some PB Blaster at NAPA and spray the bolts everyday until you're ready to tackle it again. ;D
-
Anyone else with tips or things to watch out for feel free to reply!!! The help on this forum has been unreal!
PB Blaster it is. And a wire brush to clean the threads, fix the front body mount, drill out and tap new bolt holes for the rear bumper, drill some new holes for the rear bumper cover next to the screws that I "screwed up" And patience and set aside 3 days to cover any problems that come up, figure out how to move that one stubborn brake line bracket. . .
Do the whole thing after Cristmas when its a bit cooler.
I can make this work!
PS. One easy thing was the front grill. Only held in by one bolt in the middle and just unsnaps and snaps back in easily. I'm going to try to replace it with one from a 98 Sidekick which I think looks better. Hope it has the same attachement points.
-
Lol, most of the bumper cover bolts are still in the frame on my Tracker, but the covers are off ;D
hahahaha same with mine, i love the zip cutter ;D took care of the bumper cover bolts no problem
-
hahahaha same with mine, i love the zip cutter ;D took care of the bumper cover bolts no problem
I just yanked and twisted my covers off. ;D
Only tool I believe in is the good old BFH. ;D ;D
-
ahha lol my BL went in fairly easy, but after i puit it in it wouldnt start, turns out soemthign happend to my o2 censor so i needed a new one, runs good now, preparign to do my 2" spring spacers next. cant wait
-
98 Body mounts are differnt from the captured ones pictured. ÂÂ
(http://www.zukiworld.com/month_020101/images/tickkick_bodymount_02_large.jpg)
They are like mine with the Capured nut and bolt easily accessable. ÂÂ
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/whitfimb/Aarm_mounts.jpg)
(http://photos.zuwharrie.com/users/whitfimb/P1011250.JPG)
I replace mine with new nuts and bolts after i wrung them off.  But I still don't like the body mount to bushing set up.
ANd >:( All my rear bumper cover bolts wrung off too. ÂÂ
-
Well I have the tools to pull out the broken bolts.
Gonna soak the bolts and nuts with PB Blaster.
The front body mount is still gonna be hard to get to from the top but I may just leave that one off.
That left front brake line is still going to be tough but I will figure that one out too.
May have to drill and tap the rear bumper bolt holes to make that work but now I have the tools so that will be ok too.
Now does anyone know the real deal on whether I have to do something with the steering linkage? This is a 98 model so anyone know for sure?
Thanks everyone
Dave
-
A 3" body lift needs steering shaft
mods, a 2" seems to work without
Wild
I have a custom 4" BL and had to
add a 3 or so inch section of tubing
-
On mine, the steering shaft was a little short. I had to loosen the bolt at the steering-box end of the shaft for it to slide a little while I lifted the body... The groove for the bolt to ride in and hold the shaft to the splines is elongated to allow for this movement without disengaging.
-
what i don't understand about this is i have a 4inch body lift and i didn't have to adjust anything. i just took the brake line out of the front driver side wheel well clip and disconnected 2 little body-wire clippies by the fuel tank. and i never had a problem. ???
-
Now add 3" of suspension lift ;)
I have 7" total lift and many more travel,
things get a little stretched at full droop
I took the brake line on the drivers side
(left) for you UK and Aus zukers :D
and put a Crescent Wrench (adjustable spanner)
on it and rotated the steel tube 90* down,
no more tight brake lines, I did also loosen it
from the strut too so it reaches better now.
Wild
-
Heres what I had to do with the 3 inch body lift and the 3 inch suspinion lift
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/brake%20line%20moved.jpg)
Drilled a lower hole for the brake line. No problem
I took the brake line on the drivers side
(left) for you UK and Aus zukers
and put a Crescent Wrench (adjustable spanner)
on it and rotated the steel tube 90* down,
no more tight brake lines, I did also loosen it
from the strut too so it reaches better now.
Wild
Thats a good Idea, I'm gonna have to do that now ;D
Thanks ;)