ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: TrakJD on October 30, 2007, 12:24:29 AM
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battery and starter are good. Would the anti theft chip be the factor to this? I mean when i first got this, I had to make sure that the chip was all the way in the "little plastic" thing under the steering column. Otherwise it wont turn over. is there a way I can disable this? Im just trying to think of something..... I just dont get it.
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Try jumping directly to the starter using a screwdriver or a wire. That way you can see if the starter works or if it is an electrical issue.
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battery and starter are good. Would the anti theft chip be the factor to this? I mean when i first got this, I had to make sure that the chip was all the way in the "little plastic" thing under the steering column. Otherwise it wont turn over. is there a way I can disable this? Im just trying to think of something..... I just dont get it.
I have one of those chip things in mine, but i think the chip is in there, and broken off. I've never messed with it.
The switch that is engaged by the clutch pedal might also be defective. It's like a neutral safety switch, but operated by the clutch pedal, meaning you have to have your foot on the clutch to start it. if it doesn't work, the car won't attempt to start.
You can take the 2 wires off and hook them to a blade fuse to bypass the switch. I did it to mine, thinking the switch was bad, and i left it like that so i don't have to push the clutch in to start up the car.
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Is the Clutch Switch the green wire???
So, i just pull the two wires and twist them together and put it in the blade fuses? How? Got a pic on how to do this?
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The clutch switch is a plunger-type switch that acts like a door pin switch that turns to dome lights one when the door is open. It is mounted on a bracket and the clutch pedal's arm hits it when it's not being pushed down. You take the two wires off of that switch and connect each wire to each blade of the fuse. When you are done you should have no left over wires or un-used fuse blades...
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ok, any fuses blade on the box? or is there a specific one???
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leave the fuse box out of this. All you need is a single blade type fuse. 5 amps is probably plenty. If you want to get fancy, use a fuse holder with wires coming out of it. You don't even really need a fuse to check and see if the switch is your problem, just connect the two wires from the switch together and see if the car turns over. If so, you'll know the switch is bad. You can either try to clean the switch, replace the switch or bypass the switch as described above. The safest way to bypass is with a fuse, but just be sure to cover the connections with tape so it can't short out. Also keep in mind that once that switch is bypassed, the car can start in gear, which might cause problems in a parking lot or anywhere that you're parked up against anything.
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I tried that, Nothing turns over.
Here I have crossed off....
-Battery's ok.
-Starter's ok. (Had it rebuilt 6 months ago) Could it fail on me again?
-ECM is ok. (had it fixed 6 months ago)
-Ignition switch, cleaned it up. (had a little dust)
I also noticed a screw with wires on it that goes to the transmission... its like if its for speedometer? well it snapped? would this be it? Which I highly doubt it.
Replace the battery cables? Neg and pOsitive? See if it makes any difference?
Any ideas would be appericated.....
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Are you getting any clicking from the starter when you try to start it? It is possible that the starter has gone bad again... Especially if there is excess oil being flung around by a leaky rear crank seal...
This is a manual transmission, right? Have you tried roll-starting it yet just to make sure it runs? Does all of the lights and dash lights and such still work?
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Yeah its a 5 spd.
Roll start it... Not yet. Im waiting for a help from a friend. I live on a steep driveway. lol
Starter... bad again? But i had it tested, it turned out fine. 13.5V. But there's OIL inside the pinion teeths. When I rebuilt the motor, the oil was everywhere. Main seal was bad, and had a spun rod bearing. IT has been sitting for the last 6 months. When i pulled the motor out to rebuild it.
And I work all the time, so when i have some spare time, I put the motor together. Now that its done and its back in.
I did thought that the starter cld be bad again, or the ECM's fried? Because at one point i accidentally hit the positive cable on the negative cable attached to the battery. It blew the 60A fuse. Before trying to start it up for the first time. That's when no lights were coming on, then i replaced the 60A fuse, all of the electrics came on, but the clicking.... nothing.
Is there someone that lives near Sea-Tac Airport up in Seattle, WA. I would pay you or someone to come in and check. It would be greatly appericated. Im just hella frustrated with this...... GRRRR.
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I tried to push start it. Wont even budge. Im starting to wonder if.... the starter is NO good after all? Again.
Let me know what you think?
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Do you mean you couldn't get the car to move or the engine to turn over? The starter has nothing to do with pushing it...
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It sounds like a seized engine to me! If it won't spin the engine when pushing. The starter won't start because it can't spin a seized engine. MAYBE?
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OK, I wasnt clear. I let it roll down the hill, and pop the clutch, it wont start. And I am still not getting the clicking noise from the starter. I know its electrical somewhere. I just cant figure it out.
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Did you try jumpering the clutch safety switch... ...the one up on the clutch mechanism that prevents the starter from turning unless the clutch pedal is pushed down??? If the switch is bad, the starter won't do anything... ...it was a problem on my '96, and a piece of wire across the plug fixed it...
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So, what you're saying is BOTH:
1) The starter does nothing when you turn the key -- No clicks from up front, no spinning, nothing.
and
2) You attempted to push-start the truck (in 2nd, I trust) with the key "on" and, while the engine spun, it didn't fire.
If both of those are true, I'd lean toward ignition switch, battery cables, or battery.
If the motor didn't even turn when you attempted the bump-start, then it sounds seized.
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Beercheck,
1. Starter does nothing.
2. I did attempt on pushstart the truck. But.... not in 2nd gear.... Why specifically 2nd? I pushed this very same truck on an old motor in 1st gear, it worked.
Jzap,
I bypassed the clutch saftey switch, it didnt do anything, so Im assuming its still good. otherwise its still wired up together.
And how is it possible this engine could be seized? I mean I rebuild it. everything is to its torque spec, and im able to rotate the crankshaft. Ive rebuilt a few 1.3 and 1.6 motors with success (maybe I F**ked up on this rebuilding process?) lol, but nothing like this.... the electrical BS. if its the battery cables.... I wonder if Im grounding the battery wrong. Where do you exactly ground the neg cord from battery? I just want to make sure im grounding them right.
I had the battery checked by Les Schwab again yesterday, they said its still good.
So, Ill look at the battery cable and ignition switch.
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So have you just replaced the motor and now it won't start?
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The battery ground goes to the upper starter bolt, and then there are some grounds from the engine to the chassis (and some other grounds from the chassis to the frame).
When you turn the key to ACC does the check engine light illuminate?
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Beercheck,
1. Starter does nothing.
Good. Just wanted to make sure it wasn't trying to turn an engine that wouldn't turn, thereby SEEMING as if it was doing nothing when, in fact, it was doing the best it could. If the solenoid isn't even clicking once, that's a good sign.
2. I did attempt on pushstart the truck. But.... not in 2nd gear.... Why specifically 2nd? I pushed this very same truck on an old motor in 1st gear, it worked.
2nd gives you a better shot. You don't really need to turn the engine over very fast to bump-start, but you do want at least a couple seconds of engine crank, especially if it hasn't run in a while/ever. 1st gear will try to spin the engine up real fast, but the compression will kill your speed real quick, leaving you with one very short, all-or-nothing bump. In second (or even 3rd if you've got a pretty quick push), you may well get a few seconds worth of no-clutch turnover, giving the mixture a chance to get into the cylinders.
... and im able to rotate the crankshaft.
Then it's not seized. Whew.
The thing is, the starting circuit is the simplest thing on the truck. You can run power right to the starter and it should turn. Simple electric motor. Someone earlier mentioned using a screwdriver to short the circuit right there at the solenoid.
I once had a car where the starter went out. At least, that's what I thought. Went to Autozone and bought a new/remanufactured one and installed it. The car still wouldn't turn over. Had the battery checked again. All good. Had the old starter checked again. Definitely bad. Removed the alternator and had it checked. Tested fine. Finally exhausted every other option and took the new/remanufactured starter back and made them give me another one. Put it on and...presto!
You definitely NEED to make sure that starter is working. Then cables. Then ignition switch.
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If you are getting voltage to the starter solenoid you should hear it click even if the starter is bad. If you do not hear a click when you turn the key to start, Pull the small wire off the starter (the one that activates the solenoid) check for voltage there when the key to start. If there is no voltage there start tracing the wiring back. That circuit is probably fused I would start there.
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Update:
Finally found the problem..... it wasnt anything close to what we have discussed on this forum.
APparently the previous owner had an aftermarket alarm installed and removed it. And left a mess. I seriously thought that wiring "mess" had something to do with the stereo. Occasionally it would disable the ignition system. This time it did for good. I had a suzuki mechanic to look at it. (former suzuki mechanic). He took my tracker away and said he will find the problem. Removed the wiring mess... now its all good. Im hella grateful for the mechanic. hahaha I was just on the verge of giving up.... if it wasnt for my wife.... :)
Bam, now its all running. Damn.
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I am having this problem, I just unhooked the alarm wires, and there was a little box that I think was the ignition interupter. Well while I was down there my screwdriver hit some lead wire (that someone had pigtailed into the ignition hot wire) Did I fry my ignition? When I turn it on NOTHING. No click no power. By the way 94' tracker 8v
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On the passenger inner fender by the battery are some big fuses. Check those one of them will be blown.
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Sidekicks rock... Thanks so much. The fifty amp fuse in there is blown. Hope thats it.
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Thats it, I have blown it changing an alternator before
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Now it just clicks under the dash. Two little relay looking boxes are both clicking. Nothing past those.
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Ok I finally got it figured out. There was a black an yellow wire haning off. It turned out to be the solenoid relay wire. Thanks for everyones help. You really saved me some $. Which I need right now. Thanks to eveyone on this site for all your input, and feedback you guys are great.