ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: truckasaurus44 on November 13, 2004, 05:17:55 AM
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I've heard you need to run a larger brake master cylinder/booster to run toyota land cruiser/truck axles.  Does anyone know which setup works best/easiest and does anyone have some pointers on how to route the brake lines?
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I came into this thread expecting some axle carnage... Brakes, good sir, brakes. ;D
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Bigger axles smaller breaks
;)
the size of the caliper and
wheel cylinders are what makes
better/easier brakes, if they are
too big I suppose you would have
less brake pedal, but other than
that, I wouldn't be too worried
Wild
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ha ha ha, ok, the title has been corrected. Sorry for the confusion. I've heard that you can use the sammy cylinder but it requires you to put it to the flooor to get any effect.
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With out of adjustment brakes,
a sammy Master Cylinder will go
to the floor on a Sammy Brake
System :o
If the brakes are adjusted right,
I don't think you will have much
trouble, I swapped to 4 door brakes,
one of the best mods to do, I stop
better on 33s than the stock tires
with the stock calipers
No noticeable difference in pedal
distance to stop
Wild
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I see a on like the RRO site like a 1.6 pushing 2 x Dana 44's
i'm thinking to myself here
what kind of r &p gearing are they using like omg does that engine have enough torque to run them?
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I see a on like the RRO site like a 1.6 pushing 2 x Dana 44's
i'm thinking to myself here
what kind of r &p gearing are they using like omg does that engine have enough torque to run them?
torgue from the engine doesn't matter. :)
It's all about the R&P or the Tcase gearing.
:)
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No noticeable difference in pedal
distance to stop
Wild
What is your pedal distance?
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4 to 4-1/2 inches measured from the
top of the pedal to the corner of the
firewall and flood pan.
This was measured with stock carpet,
padding and a thick floor mat still in place,
and a hard push on the pedal with my foot
Wild
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mine goes basically to the floor, i found that my rear brakes aren't wearing, but the adjusters are maxed out and the e-brake has nothing till the very top. Any ideas?
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Adjust the rear brakes, or replace the shoes
It will make a huge difference
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Adjust the rear brakes, or replace the shoes
It will make a huge difference
How do I adjust the rear brakes? I have new shoes for it cause I thought they were bad, and I checked them and the ones that are in there aren't any thinner then the new ones.
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check the size of your drums? maybe there wore out!
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check the size of your drums? maybe there wore out!
That sounds like a good Idea.
I've changed my rear brakes and they still looked like new. Still working on that problem, could be an air bubble trap in-line and I just haven't gotten it out.
Heres a pic of the rear brake assembly if that helps anybody pointing something out I've missed.
And the Brake adjuster is in Yellow and it aint no self-adjuster. There is no hole in the backing plate to adjust it with out taking the Drum off everytime.
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/Tracker%20rear%20brakes.jpg)
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Ya, get the drum off to do the initial
adjustment, the shoes need to be
centered, and it seems like the drum
won't go on, it takes a few tries to
get it setup, but once it's set it will
work much better.
If the new shoes are the same as the
old ones, the old ones ain't doin $#!+
Once the drum goes over the shoes, you
can adjust it from the back until it drags
on the drums, the shoes will wear in so
a little hard to turn is OK, it a day or so
they won't be draging from the wear
Wild