ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: explosivo on September 28, 2004, 02:00:48 PM
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What are some readily available CV joints with a high range of operating degrees? The length of the actual shaft doesn't matter too much, since all I'm after is a joint that will fit where the stock Sidekick joint has to go (clearance issues with the control arm, etc.).
I know Maxima halfs are good shafts to use, and are pretty close to the actual size of the sidekick shaft, but those are pretty hard to come by, I hear.
Do Explorer shafts have a better operating range than the Sidekick joint, or are they just larger/stronger?
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Another question: Does the front end have to be widened out to fit Explorer shafts in, or does it need spacers once widened?
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I posted in your other thread also but I saw the inner cv's on a Liberty and they look to have a long bucket although I couldn't take one apart to have a good look but it may be worth looking into
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AH... just read your post... didn't see it for some reason before :-/
The only problem that I can see with the Liberty shafts is that Liberties probably aren't very common in the scrap yards yet, considering how new they are... :-/
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Sorry I'm not ther yet :-/ ...
BUT I'm afraid that reasearch will come very soon. I've been eyeing S-10 & Toyota PU shafts.
A Story I heard was that the Toyota 86 - 95 IFS was / is designed as a 1-ton. As in, With 1-ton Yota's in other countrys the 4wd IFS is the same as the USDM trucks. Taco is a 1/4-ton US only truck designed with assistance from GM or it engineer(s).
As I see it, Spline count and or knuckle/hub design will be the limiting factors. You can change the diff and hub to match the new spline if you can mate the hub / knuckle. Here with trial & error you can quickly get in over your head and make things too expensive & complicated.
I'm looking to keep it simple, strong, minimize spares, and hope to stay away from custom 1-off consumable parts. This might mean staying in the sammy / kick realm for a while. Some stock type Longfield / Profield CV's (Kerry Whitting's SOS is looking into it) would be the hot ticket.
I have yet to see any Exploder CV's in the yard. All of them here are the TTB design with solid axles and U-joints.
I also realize I'm as new to this end of the IFS as any one else, so i hope to follow along and learn too.
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I don't know if this is going to help, but the
inner side CV only has a maximum angle of
25* and that is out of the vehicle using an
angle finder, the outer CV however can go
to 40* using the same method, so I'm going
to use outer CVs on both ends, and eliminate
the stupid weak cup, and replace it with a slip
shaft to take up the movement
Wild
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I don't know if this is going to help, but the
inner side CV only has a maximum angle of
25* and that is out of the vehicle using an
angle finder, the outer CV however can go
to 40* using the same method, so I'm going
to use outer CVs on both ends, and eliminate
the stupid weak cup, and replace it with a slip
shaft to take up the movement
Wild
I was wondering about using outer shafts and getting rid of the cup... and yes, I have a few chewed-up cups laying around the garage back at home from the CV pulling out of the cup... poor design if ya ask me, but obviously Suzuki didn't >:(
BTW, if I have the means when I get done with school, I'm stealing your slipshaft idear, Wild ;D
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Explorer shafts do not have a better operating angle that zuk, just stronger. :-/ Im working on a Toy swap right now. I will have answers in the next couple of days. I will keep you all posted.
mike
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I sort of wanted to keep my ideas
under wraps, but free information
is better, everyone benefits this way
Besides if everyone could engineer
kick butt mod stuff you would all be
doing it.
Wild
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so I'm going
to use outer CVs on both ends, and eliminate
the stupid weak cup, and replace it with a slip
shaft to take up the movement
Wild
Thanks Wild, that sounds slick. Let me know how it works.
Yep, Pretending to be an Engineer & Building my 4-door is great fun but I have a much greater apreciation for the lunch box style kits. Trail and error can make for a short trip.
Very interested to hear more about the Toyota CV shaft results. ÂÂ
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My three biggest inspirations in this endevor all posting right in a row ;D
I'm really looking forward to your progress Wild, unless you're going to keep everything under wraps from here on out... I love the idea of slipshafts... pure brilliance, if I may say so mahself ;)
Will be tuned into hearing more about the toy shafts, Mike. BTW, do they have a greater operating angle, or just stronger?
And Whitfield, waiting on your progress in the field of steering so I can copy you ;) Well, more or less build off what you find out through trial and error so I don't have to :)
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I'm going to be posting the progress,
I still have some engineering and details
to work out, the first idea won't work like
I had hoped it would, so I'm on to another
way of keeping the tires/wheels flat on the
ground through their range.
It might not be a new approach after all, but
it will work good if I can get the engineering
and details worked out right
Wild
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Have you looked into the Hummer cv's? The H1 Hummer uses cv's in it's axles. Even the H2 uses front cv's.
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Will be tuned into hearing more about the toy shafts, Mike. BTW, do they have a greater operating angle, or just stronger?
Im not sure yet. First impressions are they are the same operating angle. As for strenght, we got a guy on 37s that is not breaking em. I think Im really on to something here. I am going to try to finish it up this weekend. I wasnt going to post about it untill I was done but all this talk about Cvs and I had to spill the beans.
;)
Mike
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Im not sure yet. First impressions are they are the same operating angle. As for strenght, we got a guy on 37s that is not breaking em. I think Im really on to something here. I am going to try to finish it up this weekend. I wasnt going to post about it untill I was done but all this talk about Cvs and I had to spill the beans.
;)
Mike
Sweet. How does the physical size of the joints compare with those of Trackicks?
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I guess its difficult to find CV shafts that will have more than 25 degrees angle in the inner CV side cause 99% are tripod type,which doesnt allow more than 20-25 degrees angle.Only the outer CV (Rzeppa type-balls in cage assembly) allows much bigger angles due to wheel turning operation angles.
I guess we have to look for just stronger ones.
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If wild's idea pans out as feasable, and I try it, all I'll need is the more-flexible outer joints ;)
EDIT: fixed for clarity ;)
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Its a very good idea.An outer CV at both sides will be good cause the angles will be far more better than the stock CVs.But I dont think that an outer CV at the inner side will be so strong to be able to stand  the stress there.I believe that the tripod type inner CV is more appropriate for that side.
But .....I m not a mechanic.....
The only CV s that I saw and that can operate at even 40 degrees angle are the ones ATV use.But I dont know what type of joints they have at each side.
http://www.yaskyatv.com/prod/sus/goraxl.html
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Its a very good idea.An outer CV at both sides will be good cause the angles will be far more better than the stock CVs.But I dont think that an outer CV at the inner side will be so strong to be able to stand the stress there.I believe that the tripod type inner CV is more appropriate for that side.
But .....I m not a mechanic.....
The only CV s that I saw and that can operate at even 40 degrees angle are the ones ATV use.But I dont know what type of joints they have at each side.
Really, for the application needed here, they wouldn't have to be at 40* all the time, just during extreme droop/uptravel, since it would be at a more neutral angle during normal operation (on flat surfaces).
Why don't you think an outer joint would work on the inside position? You said yourself that the outer joint gets a lot more use/range of motion... why don't you think it can handle a static position where it doesn't have to flex on a horizontal plane?
Plus, the outers and inners are at opposite angles anyway... (for example: when the outer is at 30*, the inner is at -30*).
EDIT: Nevermind, I misread you, and in my previous post meant "outer", not inner ;)
Kinda proved your point over again ;D
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The inner and outer CVs are of the
same type construction, the difference
being the inner CV has the cup, which is
the limiting factor.
The mod will require cutting and welding
a fixed flange onto the axle to bolt the CVs
up to, The left (drivers in US) side has a flange,
and will work fine for the mod, the short stubby
axle will need the hack, weld treatment, tho
this should be no problem, there have been several
welded axles, I having one of them, on this forum
with no problems as to date.
The second half of this mod requires the cutting
of the spline/shaft off of the outer CV and a flange
welded there too, these two flanges will now get
bolted together.
Wild
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VolksWagon uses ball and cage type CV joints. Many VW's are pretty powerful so the joints should be strong. Has anyone looked into those?
Cwkick
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What are the sports car RWD CV applications  ???  RX-7, Nissan 240, Corvette, ect.  Doubt that they have near the needed range of motion on non steering wheels but I'll bet that they are strong as heck. ÂÂ
Hmm, I'd like to find a technical CV joint discussion somewhere.  Makes, models, designs, radical innovations ect.
Maybe I need to look for set of Cadillac CV's
1976 Cadillac Eldarodo Front wheel drive V-8 500 CID 496 ft# of torque at 2000 RPM's ahhhh. Hybrid beef. But Probally weigh more then the complete Kick rear.
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The inner and outer CVs are of the
same type construction, the difference
being the inner CV has the cup, which is
the limiting factor.
The mod will require cutting and welding
a fixed flange onto the axle to bolt the CVs
up to, The left (drivers in US) side has a flange,
and will work fine for the mod, the short stubby
axle will need the hack, weld treatment, tho
this should be no problem, there have been several
welded axles, I having one of them, on this forum
with no problems as to date.
The second half of this mod requires the cutting
of the spline/shaft off of the outer CV and a flange
welded there too, these two flanges will now get
bolted together.
Wild
Now, just out of curiosity, has anyone here broken an outer joint, or have all the problems been with the inners (I know all mine have)?
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Vettes have Dana 44's and they are made of aluminum(sp) so it would be light, but using Chebby parts on anything in our shop is not allowed ;D
stu
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Vettes have Dana 44's and they are made of aluminum(sp) so it would be light, but using Chebby parts on anything in our shop is not allowed ;D
stu
Probably would start to break the 'cheap' rule in my 'shop' as well ;)
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I think Zig popped an outer
CV but I have only scattered
the inner cage, the joint and
CV balls were fine, new cage
and I was back on the road.
I carry a spare cage just in
case now, so I can do a trail
repair if need be
Wild
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I think Zig popped an outer
CV but I have only scattered
the inner cage, the joint and
CV balls were fine, new cage
and I was back on the road.
I carry a spare cage just in
case now, so I can do a trail
repair if need be
Wild
That makes me wonder if doing the slip shaft idea with stock outers would be worth it, or if it would be more beneficial to get beefier outers from a toyota or something :-/
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ok silly question time , is it driver side or passenger side that is strongest
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The inner and outer CVs are of the
same type construction, the difference
being the inner CV has the cup, which is
the limiting factor.
........................
Wild
Well the stock axle shafts my sidekick has ,have a tripod inner CV joint and a balls-cage outer CV.These axle shafts are Spanish made,the ones you are talking about are Jap made.
and here they are :
(http://www.off-road.gr/albums/Grvit_Calmini_Vitara/abt.sized.jpg)
you can see on top part the short axle shaft but from the other one you can see the difference even in appearance.The inner CV cup is bigger.
The jap made CV has green cup,and is considered to be  stronger.Till now I broke 2 outer CV s and one inner.
Also on the right you can see Im using Wurth Boots.They just cant be damaged. :) Incredible protection for the joints.
This is before the Anvil installation.
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the inner CV broke when my steering was slightly turned as you say.The 2 outer CV s broke when the wheel suddenly got instantly traction in muddy terrain while spining...
Jan 05 heh ? well ... ,the sooner the better...
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Also on the right you can see Im using Wurth Boots.They just cant be damaged. :) Incredible protection for the joints.
Where'd you get the boots? I've had tons of problems with the cheap replacements that I get from Carquest tearing under normal daily driving. ::)
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Where'd you get the boots? I've had tons of problems with the cheap replacements that I get from Carquest tearing under normal daily driving. ::)
Give me 10 min and I ll show you more about them ..
I guess you can find in every store that sells automotive parts.They are not cheap but they worth the money.Unless a CV ' breaks,you re going to have them 2-3 years.The CV boot is made by Wurth,a company that makes special tools,many things mainly for automotive use.The product series is Wurth FIRSTEC and its number is Art-Nr : 820 500.
(http://www.to4x4.gr/gallery/albums/album40/DSC00685.jpg)
http://www.to4x4.gr/gallery/albums/album40/DSC00683.jpg
http://www.to4x4.gr/gallery/albums/album40/DSC00686.jpg
http://www.to4x4.gr/gallery/albums/album40/DSC00687.jpg
http://www.to4x4.gr/gallery/albums/album40/DSC00688.jpg
http://www.to4x4.gr/gallery/albums/album40/DSC00689.jpg
You ll notice that they are much bigger than stock ones,you can cut them where you this is best,I cut 1" from the back and I dont use its fasteners,but heavy duty ones.I f you check the photo of the spanish axle shaft a few posts back you  see.
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Give me 10 min and I ll show you more about them ..
I guess you can find in every store that sells automotive parts.They are not cheap but they worth the money.Unless a CV ' breaks,you re going to have them 2-3 years.The CV boot is made by Wurth,a company that makes special tools,many things mainly for automotive use.The product series is Wurth FIRSTEC and its number is Art-Nr : 820 500.
([url]http://www.to4x4.gr/gallery/albums/album40/DSC00685.jpg[/url])
[url]http://www.to4x4.gr/gallery/albums/album40/DSC00683.jpg[/url]
[url]http://www.to4x4.gr/gallery/albums/album40/DSC00686.jpg[/url]
[url]http://www.to4x4.gr/gallery/albums/album40/DSC00687.jpg[/url]
[url]http://www.to4x4.gr/gallery/albums/album40/DSC00688.jpg[/url]
[url]http://www.to4x4.gr/gallery/albums/album40/DSC00689.jpg[/url]
You ll notice that they are much bigger than stock ones,you can cut them where you this is best,I cut 1" from the back and I dont use its fasteners,but heavy duty ones.I f you check the photo of the spanish axle shaft a few posts back you  see.
sweet, we have a Wurth guy that comes to our shop for other stuff, i'll have to check it out. i tear boots about twice a year. :-/
stu
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Sweet. I'll have to keep those in mind when I get some new boots.
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I've broken outers also. I think the last 2 were outers.
I'm really interested in a stronger shaft. I've gotten my anvil and steel third. (to be installed this winter) And the CV's have been on my mind.
The best way to reduce the CV angle would be to get radical and make a center mounted R&P. That would make your shafts longer and the angle less...
If I remember right, doesn't Mike have a Calimini proto type of one?
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The best way to reduce the CV angle would be to get radical and make a center mounted R&P. That would make your shafts longer and the angle less...
If I remember right, doesn't Mike have a Calimini proto type of one?
See the "I did some thinking" thread ;) That's one of the things that were discussed... using a D44 TTB third member from a Fullsize Bronco seems like a great way to do this... ;)
And as far as I know, Mike's using an anvil with Maxima halfshafts, but I could very well be wrong. :-/
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Before I got my Anvil I have an old rearend sitting around.
So I cut it up and tried to see how it would fit. Even with the engine lifted up 3" (custom frame) the cross member was in the way. I'd have to customize that also.
Moving at the time so I desided to stick with the anvil for now and work on that idea later.
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By the way,
The rear end rotated that way will give you the right direction and the side gears are 26 spline, so the CV's will slide in.
All stock parts!!!
It would be a lot of work but it is feasible.
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You're talking about the crossmember the diff sits on, right?
I already know that if I want to do a centered dif there'll be TONS of work on the frame, since a centered diff can't be used in it's full potential unless you make some custom A-arms that are mounted about 8-10" inwards on each side ;D
Third Drawing ;D ;D
(http://www.eye-irritant.com/august2004/ifsillus.gif)
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You can make a center diff without touching the rest of the front suspention.
It's just the drive line. It really doesn't have anything to do with the front "suspention".
As long as the angles of the CV's are the same there souldn't be a problem. And if there was it would be a vibration.
I was just talking about making room for the third member to fit.
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I am reading the other thread that goes along with this.
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You can make a center diff without touching the rest of the front suspention.
It's just the drive line. It really doesn't have anything to do with the front "suspention".
As long as the angles of the CV's are the same there souldn't be a problem. And if there was it would be a vibration.
I was just talking about making room for the third member to fit.
Yeah, I know, but using a centered diff with longer shafts allow for more travel, and to take advantage of the more travel allowed, longer arms could be used... but not needed ;)
If you're already messing around with the IFS subframe, might as well move the mounts and make longer arms ;D
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As this discussion goes on...the work needed for the proposed mods increases in such a way that I think that eventually we will be discussing a solid axle set up.... ;D
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Man, I think a solid axle with 4 link suspension would be as hard to get tuned it would take just as much time to fab and setup the custom armed, centered-diff IFS ;)
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I think that for now till something easier comes up,I ll be o.k with the widening front end mod,Ranger (or explorer) axle shafts,and the use of limiting straps. :-/
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I've been talking with Mike, and I think that that's what I'll be starting out with. Then onto bigger and better things after that ;)
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Did we come up with a sourse for limiting straps?
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Superlift, but I guess he's been having problems with those straps, so he's looking for different ones.
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THe BIG Orange Track Kick from the Pirate board.  That guy was making and selling Limit straps. ÂÂ
Did some one say Soild axle..  Where is that Puke 'n Smiley when ya need it.   Just kidding...  Their are some super nice well functioning Solid axle Track Kick rigs. I'm hoping to be able to follow them some day.
Building the IFS further is an adventure the trip their is part of the fun.
Building the Centered diff with stock arms would help the CV's angle but you'd  miss the chance to improve the travel, flex, and steering.  Plus the difference in arc travel would make the CV shafts move excessivly back and forth.  This is an issue with the stock arms and shaft traveling in the same arc pattern, making them follow a differnt pattern (seperate form one another) can only make matters worse.  But were not talking about stock CV's when we talk centered diff, so i'm open to hear other ideias. ÂÂ
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I was thinking one step at a time.
I don't think the CV travel would be that much with shorter arms.
I've seen too many people take on too much and really screw things up.
Make a center diff. work out the bugs and move on from there.
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Procomp, but I guess  he's been having problems with those straps, so he's looking for different ones.
I found these, dont know about quality though
http://www.crawltech.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=&products_id=758
http://www.tandjperformance.com/products-suspension-limitstraps.htm
and I know that Rancho also makes /sells limiting straps.
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I was thinking one step at a time.
I've seen too many people take on too much and really screw things up.
Make a center diff. work out the bugs and move on from there.
I can understand and appreciate that approach, My steering is still in the scare the Heck out of ya stage. ÂÂ
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Here's my 2 cents. Look at that walker evans tube buggy that was using IFS. They end up switching to solid axles. They were using 3inch dia chrommoly shafts. You might of seen it in petersen's 4x4 mag.  Also the diff is never going to move outta the way of whatever obstacle that's in front of it.  U have a nice tracker by the way. i would seriously consider going with a soild axle swap using maybe 10 inch fox coilover or something like that. It's seems to me that your a capable fabricator but spending so much time on the cv shafts. that might or could keep breaking isn't worth it. I know soild axles brake too but parts seem to be cheaper. i saw this quote or something close to it in petersen's 4x4 they don't put IFS under trains or dump trucks.  U could sell some of your IFS stuff to fiance it? A toyota axle or chebby d44 or 12 bolt might be a good choice. Also u will need to consider brake lines. Do u see what i'm saying your concerned about operating angle right? i've seen A guy drive a H1 up a travel ramp with one wheel off the ground and proceed to flip it on it side to show off! :o ::).  I know u must be concerned about highway ride right? I've driven a stock tracker and they aren't the best on road anyway due to the short wheel base.  Sorry to ramble on but i guess instead of .02 cents I gave u a quarter. ::)
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I am the only persom in my club with IFS. I am also the only person in my club that can/will drive their vehicle ANY distance to an event, ride the event, and drive it home. You dont have to go solid axle to build a good trail rig. For a good example look at the main page (Working and Wheeling RPM Style). I rode with Mike all weekend at Apple Valley and he went MORE places than all of the larger solid axle trucks, that were locked, larger tires and more motor. There were many places that he effortlessly walked up the most if not all of the other SAS trucks could not make.
It's all in what you want out of your vehicle. I can not do all of the trails that the other members of my club can do with their cab stucks and Jeeps on 42"+ tires but I can do 90% of what they do and dont need a tow vehicle to do it ;D
Zig
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I am the only persom in my club with IFS. I am also the only person in my club that can/will drive their vehicle ANY distance to an event, ride the event, and drive it home. You dont have to go solid axle to build a good trail rig. For a good example look at the main page (Working and Wheeling RPM Style). I rode with Mike all weekend at Apple Valley and he went MORE places than all of the larger solid axle trucks, that were locked, larger tires and more motor. There were many places that he effortlessly walked up the most if not all of the other SAS trucks could not make.
It's all in what you want out of your vehicle. I can not do all of the trails that the other members of my club can do with their cab stucks and Jeeps on 42"+ tires but I can do 90% of what they do and dont need a tow vehicle to do it ;D
Zig
well that's cool but I trying to see it from a reliabilty/cost factor that's all. personally I wouldn't want to have to keep repairing cv joints or weld up a center diff housing and other stuff that could break. I just don't see the point of throwing a bunch of $ into IFS when it doesn't allow for alot of body roll. IMHO
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i have same opinion as zukipilot. (zig). there are always going to be advantages for going SAS, and as zig mentioned, still being able to drive 90% of what others can with IFS, is one of the better things.
i dont know about how many people trailer their trail rigs to the trails, but i know that trailers are a hassle, to me anyway.
its not really how hardcore/over-board you want to go, it how capable you want your rig to be.
one of the main reasons why i got a vitara, was that everyone else has a sierra, and its easy to mod a sierra hardcore (for anyone with money). its more difficult for a vitara to reach the same level, BUT, it gives me a challenge, the challenge to build and develop the IFS to equal/better the Solids. i'd probably get bored after a while with a Sierra, as there is only so much you can do until you go beyond DD, and road drivable rig.
steve.
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I think if you want a straight axil go get a Sami or a Jeep. ÂÂ
THAT would be easier and more cost effective.
I bought mine because it was a cheep 4x4 convertible that the family could ride around in on hot days.  After a while I came to appriate the lil truck and started to build it.
I'm the only one that has a IFS on 32's and run with Jeeps with 35-38's.  I can go almost anywhere they can except for deep deep deep mud!  The IFS gives me the added clearance that the bigger tires give the other guys.  Then add in how light it is...
And for breakage as a persentage.  I am very low on that pole.  I've never been pulled out or left on the trail.  And like the article about Mike said "12-15 minutes and the CV axil was changed".  (Can't do that with a solid axil)
Also, not one of the Jeeps I hang with have the original axils in them (Dana 44's and 60's).  So talking about upgrading our stock CV's isn't out of the ordinary.
The CV is the weak point and it would be nice to find a solution for it.  When we do, we will then find the next weak link.
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that's cool whatever floats your boat 8)
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i think that main resone to run IFS is because we want to do everything different. you could always build a Heep but it takes some real thinking to build a bad ass Tracker.
stu
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So far most of the sammy guys who part out Kicks seem to have a surplus of super cheap IFS parts (Often just throwing them away). But I haven't broken anything yet.
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Here's my 2 cents. Look at that walker evans tube buggy that was using IFS. They end up switching to solid axles. They were using 3inch dia chrommoly shafts.
I dont think this is a fair comparison. First Walker Evans is an ass. ;D Sorry got sidetracked... ::) FIRST that rig worked very well as a trail rider. I dont think anybody on this board is trying to be a professional rockcrawler, or an ass. ::) (seriosly he is an ass, thats another story)
Second, If you think IFS is a waste of time you havent been wheeling with one built right.
Third SAS is harder to do safe and legal for street
IFS has many advantages over a straight axle.
*Axles are easy to swap.
*Their is room for upgrades if someone would mass produce some to sell.
*More front diff clearance
*Tie rods are tucked away
*You can build a ramp/bellypan from your front bumper to the mid point of your rig to slids across
*and of coarse jumping ::)
(http://www.rpm4x4.com/images/temp/jumpnjay.jpg)
Mike
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([url]http://www.rpm4x4.com/images/temp/jumpnjay.jpg[/url])
Mike
Is that the Trackick buggy with Boggers on the back that you posted pictures of a while ago? What's it running for CV shafts and differential?
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So Mike, did you come up with anything with those Toy CV's?
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Is that the Trackick buggy with Boggers on the back that you posted pictures of a while ago? What's it running for CV shafts and differential?
Yea. Its running stock everything with a Widened Calmini 3 inch lift. It does have a steel front diff. Its unbeliveable to see this guy drive. He beats the poo out of this thing. He rarely breaks anything but when he does its a front cv. Usually one a weekend.
Mike
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So Mike, did you come up with anything with those Toy CV's?
Ive got it all figured out. They will work. A freind of mine is machining out pieces to make them a bolt in. I dont know how long that will take.
Mike
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Yea. Its running stock everything with a Widened Calmini 3 inch lift. It does have a steel front diff. Its unbeliveable to see this guy drive. He beats the poo out of this thing. He rarely breaks anything but when he does its a front cv. Usually one a weekend.
Mike
Is that the rig with one coil cut out of the spring?
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Ive got it all figured out. They will work. A freind of mine is machining out pieces to make them a bolt in. I dont know how long that will take.
Mike
Do you have vehicle specifics on what the axles came out of for us? ;D
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Is that the rig with one coil cut out of the spring?
Yep
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Do you have vehicle specifics on what the axles came out of for us? ;D
86-95 toyota pickup
They made a 4x4 van for a while. That one makes an easier swap but yet again its rare. Im looking for an easy to find swap.
Mike
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Ive got it all figured out.
Mike
Yep, all figured out... :) BTW Walker says Hi! ;)
-Eric
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86-95 toyota pickup
They made a 4x4 van for a while. That one makes an easier swap but yet again its rare. Im looking for an easy to find swap.
Mike
Sweet.
So is the shaft small enought to fit in with the Tracker flange/nub welded on, or does it need to be widened and use with spacers, or will it require being widened to fit?
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Tell walker I said Bl :-X M*
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Sweet.
So is the shaft small enought to fit in with the Tracker flange/nub welded on, or does it need to be widened and use with spacers, or will it require being widened to fit?
No I dont think it will need to be widened.
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Just cause walker thought your tracker would be a cute little 4x4 for his grand kids is no reason to be a hater...
I have his autograph somewhere on a Zukiworld business card.. I will frame it and send it to you!!
Ha Ha!!
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Just cause walker thought your tracker would be a cute little 4x4 for his grand kids is no reason to be a hater...
I have his autograph somewhere on a Zukiworld business card.. I will frame it and send it to you!!
Ha Ha!!
Why dont you send it to his grandkids, I have enough kindling to start a fire right here.
Mike
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Sweet.
So is the shaft small enought to fit in with the Tracker flange/nub welded on (snip)
I just re read this... No welding.. I think it will bolt in if this works. 3 spacers will be added. It will require 2 toy shafts, and 2 toy lockouts.
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I just re read this... No welding.. I think it will bolt in if this works. 3 spacers will be added. It will require 2 toy shafts, and 2 toy lockouts.
So it'll fit into the Trackick knuckle, and the Toy lockouts will bolt right onto the knuckle as well?
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So it'll fit into the Trackick knuckle, and the Toy lockouts will bolt right onto the knuckle as well?
Yea, but the axle stub is too long so it will require a spacer. Were making it like a wheel spacer. 6 countersunk holes and 6 studs.
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Yea, but the axle stub is too long so it will require a spacer. Were making it like a wheel spacer. 6 countersunk holes and 6 studs.
So are you gonna be selling kits? I'll offer my help as a tester. That means I get a set for free, right ;D
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I think he'll be the best test for it.... ::)
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I think he'll be the best test for it.... ::)
Hey, you gotsta have more than one test rig :)
But yeah, if you're selling the spacers, I'll probably buy one if it all works out.
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Hey Mike, just wondering how the Toy CV's are progressing?From what I gather the Toy safe operating angle is 22 degrees which isn't any better but the strength certainly will be a bonus. Will this mod work for stock 22 & 26 splines or is it for widened Calmini setups? Will having the Anvil make it easier? Looking forward to more details when you can.
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Hey Mike, just wondering how the Toy CV's are progressing?From what I gather the Toy safe operating angle is 22 degrees which isn't any better but the strength certainly will be a bonus. Will this mod work for stock 22 & 26 splines or is it for widened Calmini setups? Will having the Anvil make it easier? Looking forward to more details when you can.
I'm gonna assume that this is being designed to work with the anvil, because I believe Mike mentioned bolting it up to the flanges and using an adapter/spacer to mount the toy lockout... stock kick front diffs only have 1 3-bolt flange, where the anvil has 2.
But we'll have to have Mike let us know, because I could be wrong :-/
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I'm gonna assume that this is being designed to work with the anvil, because I believe Mike mentioned bolting it up to the flanges and using an adapter/spacer to mount the toy lockout... stock kick front diffs only have 1 3-bolt flange, where the anvil has 2.
But we'll have to have Mike let us know, because I could be wrong :-/
Yea the Anvil would make it easier. Untill I get some product back from the machinist so details are rough. I think they will fit many different setups but will install differently at the inner cup.
Mike
Mike
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8) I've been considering an Anvil so I guess this is just one more reason.
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8) I've been considering an Anvil so I guess this is just one more reason.
ditto.
Make sure to keep us posted on your progress, Mike! You know if you don't we'll be sure to hound you on it ;D
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Mike, any progress /pics on the Toy CV's? Curious as to how this is working out.
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i would have to say the stronges cv i have ever seen r on my brothers dune buggy. he has a 359 hp 302 V8 on the back and also 20 inches of wheel travel. they r on a 3 rib vanagan trany and they r stock cvs. he can do wheel stands all day with 36" iroc swampers on it front and rear.
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Mike, any progress /pics on the Toy CV's? Curious as to how this is working out.
progress is comming...
Ive been working 6 days a week for quite a while now... not much time on my hands. The Idea was actually me and another guys Idea, since Ive been working so much He has pretty much taken over on the project. We got 2 of the 3 pieces back the other day, very nice quality ;D We are going to I have a test fit by the end of the week. On the downside... We just got the bill for the machinework. :'( A little higer than we had hoped for... if everything works out mabey we can negotiate his price. Sounds like Kerry has got something in the works too (tora tora) so one way or the other it would seem the tracker CV problem is going to be soon resolved. ;)
Mike
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8) Looking forward to your progress.
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If I can get something that I can build to work that would be better for me. I like to do the fabing also.
To bad a CV out of a Buick wouldn't work. Those are a dime a dozen here.
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Hi Mike, What is the CV you have gotten the most flex out of? I know for awhile you were running rear struts for a X body Chevy which were longer than any front struts available. what CV's were you running with that setup. I do not wheel/jump lil Suzy as hard as you do your truck. I just want to maximize the articulation in the front without resorting to reworking the whole front suspension.
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I know this is an old thread, but I'm trying to dig up tech on CV's. The sand rail guys seem to like the Porsche 930 CV's - even behind high HP rail buggies. Anyone try these, or know much about them? Bobby long has some CV axles for what looks like a D44 & D60, but they're $$$ and I don't know if they can be adapted to our needs?