ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: bentparts on November 08, 2007, 04:07:39 AM
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Ok, I'm in the middle of doing the Hagen over rotation to my rear diff and have run into a bit of a problem. First a description, I'm using OME lift springs, a 1 3/4" spacer and Doetch Tech shocks in the rear, basicly the RR rock steady kit with a bit bigger spacer. Problem is the diff spacer, I can't get one in! When I rotate the diff to make the driveshaft angle aprox straight coming out, the center link mount and the holes in the top of the diff are only about half the distance from being one set of holes off. The rear most center link bracket holes, are about in the center , between the rear and front mounting holes in the top of the diff. If I rotate the diff far enough to make it line up with the rear center link holes in the front diff mount holes, the driveshaft has a slight angle coming out of the diff, the opposite of before the rotation. In otherwords, the input to the diff is a bit high. I can only get a 5/16" plate in between the center link bracket and the diff housing for a spacer as well. I must be doing somthing wrong, but it's too late to quit now, I'm already commited, I've cut the lower spring cups off already. I did mount a wheel and found I've gained about 1.5' clearence between the front of the rear tire and the front of the rear wheel well. And the coils sit much better. So what am I doing wrong? I know this is a long winded post , but I've tried to give the best description I could without photos. Hope this makes sense.
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??? I just thought of something, the coil spacer I'm using seems to be about the same oversize (3/4") as the distance I need to get this stuff to line up. I'm thinkin' (yeah it hurts) their related.
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Remove the springs first, then try putting in the diff spacer, my suggestion
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Thanks Yankee Tim, I'll try that . I'm just wondering if the diff will drop far enough to get the springs back in?
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if ya pivot the axle I would say yup. First side is easy, use a jack to pivot for the other side.
(obviously with shocks off)
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I'm pretty sure the diff spacer has to be offset, meaning it can't use holes in the top and the bottom that are lined up.
I think what they do is make the holes offset by the same amount of distance that the holes are apart.
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That's my attempt at an offset diff spacer drawing, looking at it from side on.. I'm hoping this is the problem, and this post is not a waste of time.
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I bet you didnt remove the shocks. You are aware that you need to make a new lower shock mount.
Mike
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You'd lose that bet Mike. I followed the instructions, including removing the shocks. After all was said and done, it went together pretty well. I made the spacer with 5/16th plate steel, and I did offset it one set of holes ( nice diagram Crikey Mike!) and put it in before I put the springs back in. I still have a very slight bit of angle in the driveshaft, but it's still a bunch better than stock. I'm thinking that the reason mine didn't come out exactly like yours did Mike, is the extra 3/4" of spacer above the spring. That is enough to change the angles slightly, so the spacer thickness would change as well. I think. I also fabbed up some new shock mounts that move the bottom of the shock away from the axle about 1.5". That should give them plenty of room. They were dented , both of them, in several spots, so they obviously were hitting. I'll post a photo or two once it's finished. Thanks again everyone for all your help! Next step, shave the bottom of that diff, and drop in my new transfer case with the 4 to 1 gears! 33's here we come!