ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: bioniconion on November 02, 2004, 03:03:46 PM
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First of i just got my 93 tracker so go easy on me im trying :) i already put a 4 inch custom body lift on it and im working on my tires next. a few questions i'd appreciate some help with though.
1. My miles per gallon is roughly like 17 and i have stock tires. i just replaced my fuel filter, did a rotor, distributor cap, plugs, wires, oil change on her. and im getting this horrible milage on stock tires. any ideas what's going wrong?
2. Occasionally when i first move her from a stop *After she's been sitting for a night or so* i get a loud pop or a bang out of the rear end. it's not like a grind though. it sounds more like my friends jeep when his tires freeze to the ground and he breaks them loose. any ideas? should i be worried?
3. during the first while of driving on a cold start 2nd gear and reverse are basically IMPOSSIBLE to go into. the other gears aren't that bad but they are starting to act up. clutch problem or worse?
4. when i engage 4w low i hear a grind. not going from 2wh-4wh but only from neutral-4wl on my transfercase gears. any thoughts?
5. not a question but just wanted to thank you all for you help in advance and say that so far i've seen more support on these forums to new people and nicer people than i've seen on any other vehicle forums. ill get some pics of my girl up when i take them :) thanks again all
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3. during the first while of driving on a cold start 2nd gear and reverse are basically IMPOSSIBLE to go into. the other gears aren't that bad but they are starting to act up. clutch problem or worse?
You probably just need to adjust your clutch cable.
4. when i engage 4w low i hear a grind. not going from 2wh-4wh but only from neutral-4wl on my transfercase gears. any thoughts?
You're shifting into 4-low while stopped, correct? Shifting while moving, even with the clutch in is a no-no.
5. not a question but just wanted to thank you all for you help in advance and say that so far i've seen more support on these forums to new people and nicer people than i've seen on any other vehicle forums. ill get some pics of my girl up when i take them :) thanks again all
Welcome. We're all one big zukin' family ;)
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yes going into 4low even while stopped i get a little grind in the front end somewhere. my one friend *has a jeep* thinks it sounds like i might have a loose ujoin somewhere. i dunno ill look in my manual tomorrow to see what i can find about adjusting the clutch cable :) any idea's how to about tripple my horse power by chance? i'd love to see the look on my friends face if i take it to the track and hand it to him :P
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SBC, twin turbo, jet turbine? ??? ;D
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First of i just got my 93 tracker so go easy on me im trying :) i already put a 4 inch custom body lift on it and im working on my tires next. a few questions i'd appreciate some help with though.
1. My miles per gallon is roughly like 17 and i have stock tires. i just replaced my fuel filter, did a rotor, distributor cap, plugs, wires, oil change on her. and im getting this horrible milage on stock tires. any ideas what's going wrong?
Sounds about right with a lift and a heavy foot
2. Occasionally when i first move her from a stop *After she's been sitting for a night or so* i get a loud pop or a bang out of the rear end. it's not like a grind though. it sounds more like my friends jeep when his tires freeze to the ground and he breaks them loose. any ideas? should i be worried?
Sounds like dry need replaced u-joints
3. during the first while of driving on a cold start 2nd gear and reverse are basically IMPOSSIBLE to go into. the other gears aren't that bad but they are starting to act up. clutch problem or worse?
Classic loose clutch cable or bad cable
4. when i engage 4w low i hear a grind. not going from 2wh-4wh but only from neutral-4wl on my transfercase gears. any thoughts?
even stopped with the clutch in, and yours is dragging,
it spins the low range gears, they will grind, same with
my auto trans, this should go away with the clutch fixed
5. not a question but just wanted to thank you all for you help in advance and say that so far i've seen more support on these forums to new people and nicer people than i've seen on any other vehicle forums. ill get some pics of my girl up when i take them :) thanks again all
Welcome to the ZW forrum
;D
Wild
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the banging noise will be your brakes seizing on overnight. some times my turbo diesel golf does the same thing. its just them releasing ... no big deal.
the mileage with a lift is about right
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How about the changing the PCV, air filter, and checking the timing?
I just replaced the u-joints in my rear driveshaft; not too bad a job. You could try putting the back end up on jack stands and spin the tires and see if you have any noises you can pinpoint; that's how I knew I was getting a squeak from the front u-joint on my rear driveshaft (it was impossible to tell with the vehicle moving and me in the driver's seat, even with my head down at the bottom of the door).
Oh, and Welcome :)
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1. My miles per gallon is roughly like 17 and i have stock tires. i just replaced my fuel filter, did a rotor, distributor cap, plugs, wires, oil change on her. and im getting this horrible milage on stock tires. any ideas what's going wrong?
1. Check that the engine is in good tune. (You've tuned it up, but check things like low compression, etc.)
2. Check that all your smog stuff is working properly. i.e. Various sensors can enrichen the mix. Better performance, bad MPG. Oh, and below 40 degrees, your rig will get worse mileage... maybe 10-15% worse. It's just a 'Zuki thing.
3. Check nothing is dragging. That bang could be your rear brake shoes locking, for example. When it's cold, lift each wheel and see if it spins reasonably freely. A sticking front caliper was costing me 4MPG.
4. Check your odometer? My neighbor put on oversized tires then claimed his mileage sucked. It turns out he was going about 10% further than the odo showed... so mileage wasn't as bad as he thought.
5. If you trust her, try a long distance run. Running well, you should see about 24-30MPG over 50+ miles of running, if all is right. (This gives her a chance to balance her temp & such.) It wouldn't hurt to dump in a can of injector cleaner. Some of these rigs have idled around town & need an occasional trip to blow things out.
6. Mud slinger tires and lifting the truck will hurt your mileage... but it's a decent enough trade.
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Also, check your cat.
not the one that meows. ;)
Heather
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O2 sensor?
Cwkick
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well i flipped my little switch under the dash and no more light...and so far my mpg's are steadily climbing...who woulda guessed ???
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Which switch?
From your description, I wonder if this car has been sitting for a while. The mileage, sticking brakes and clutch could all be due to that.
Just in case, you might want to change the oil in your tranny/rear end.
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Just in case, you might want to change the oil in your tranny/rear end.
That's a good idea... while you're at it, hit your front diff as well ;)
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the little switch by the speaker. do u think the fluids would help that much? just another question what is an sas? im trying to learn all about this cuz i want a monster with some real ground clearance but im kinda lost? ??? also i saw pictures of leaf springs on a tracker is that difficult? what are all the advantages and how do i find out how to do all this stuff? hehe
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the little switch by the speaker. do u think the fluids would help that much? just another question what is an sas? im trying to learn all about this cuz i want a monster with some real ground clearance but im kinda lost? ??? also i saw pictures of leaf springs on a tracker is that difficult? what are all the advantages and how do i find out how to do all this stuff? hehe
Fluid changes keep shit from breaking. Do you run 10k miles on an oil change? No? Then you shouldn't be running like 30k on your gearboxes, IMO.
SAS = Solid Axle Swap, and that leaf-sprung Tracker is Heather and Nates (hcgalving & natebert). There's a thread about the new FJ80 Landcruiser axles they're putting in on the front page right now.
Putting in a straight axle is the easiest way to go bigger, but IFS has advantages, like roadability, ground clearance, and of course everyone's favorite: jumping ;D
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well i'd love to jump her someday if she'd hold *i honestly don't know...so much rust lol* but is there no real way to get like...12inches of total ground clearance on them?
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Twelve inches of ground clearance at what point on the underbody? I'm sure there are plenty of places I'm getting 12"+ on 33's with 3" suspension/3" body lift ;D
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lol good point. well i'd like at least like ummm14inches total if not more *i wish* any thoughts/
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How much are you willing to spend? You could do the diff drop lift like Whittfield, and get pretty decent clearance everywhere except where the differential in the front was dropped (I believe he's got like 11" at the front diff).
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I've got 22 inches  ;D (at the frame anyways)
(sorry, had to)
Heather
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lol well when my friend and i first measured i had 8 inches total clearance from my lowest point. now i know the 31's are going to help take me up to close to 10 inches if not a little more. so will the 2 inch suspension lift take me to the 12inch total clearance?
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ok well i bought a new o2 sensor for in her and new gear oils for the tranny, x-fer case, and both differentials...total of 150bucks us :( i really hope this'll clear up my problems. i need to adjust the clutch cable too and after that it better be fixed...i should get the valves checked and adjusted but the dealership here wants 135bucks to do it :(
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the little switch by the speaker. do u think the fluids would help that much?
Ah, you turned off the idiot light. Gotcha. The fluid changes can't hurt. No telling how old that oil is.
If the clunking noise continues, you could pull one of the rear drums and look for rust. Sometimes, when parked for extended times, the friction material and drum will rust & will stick together. (Same thing for clutches.) If it's not too bad, it'll get better with use.
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ok well i bought a new o2 sensor for in her and new gear oils for the tranny, x-fer case, and both differentials...total of 150bucks us :( i really hope this'll clear up my problems. i need to adjust the clutch cable too and after that it better be fixed...i should get the valves checked and adjusted but the dealership here wants 135bucks to do it :(
8 valve engine??? You might want to adjust your own valves. It isn't hard to do, really. It requires a 10 & 12mm wrench, a screwdriver, a feeler guage, & a valve cover gasket... and about an hour of your time. For $135, I assume they are doing more than just adjusting valves???
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lol good point. well i'd like at least like ummm14inches total if not more *i wish* any thoughts/
Easy! Portals and big rubber ;D
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8 valve engine??? You might want to adjust your own valves. It isn't hard to do, really. It requires a 10 & 12mm wrench, a screwdriver, a feeler guage, & a valve cover gasket... and about an hour of your time. For $135, I assume they are doing more than just adjusting valves???
nope they said that's just for the adjustments. i don't think the tracker ever had it from the previous owner. and i have the wrenches, screwdriver, and i can get the gasket. im just lacking with the feeler guage and the knowledge :( i hate this stupid hayes manual. not 1 picture of my freaking engine bay and a lot of what it says is kinda vague..and yes i got the 8v engine...anyone around the southwestern pa region wanna make 50 bucks? lol
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Ok... it's just that $135 seems rather harsh. :o I knew there was a reason to not take my car into the shop.
Valve adjustment isn't hard... especially if you can find the double-step feeler guages. With those, the tip is thinner than the blade... such as in .008/.009... so the .008 will slide in but the .009 won't, and you are set. Tighten down the nut & recheck.
Maybe you can find a neighbor who tinkers with cars. If you find someone with an old VW, you are set. <g>
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ok well i decided to skip the valve adjustment, but i put a brand new o2 sensor on it...gas milage so far is back up to like 140 miles on 1/2 tank so i think that GREALY helped. now...i tightened up my clutch cable trying to fix my rough shifts...absolutely nothing different :( i can't figure out what it is...when it's cold it does NOT go in at all until the tracker's warmed up. i don't want to go and blow money on a new clutch and that not be the problem. would u guys think it's more the clutch..or *hoping not* syncro's/tranny need rebuilt?
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The cable breaks down, or rather the
cover does, and no longer prevents
compressing the cover when the clutch
is pushed in, so the clutch dosn't disengage
all the way
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so you suggest putting in a new clutch cable? i really don't wanna put 1k into my tranny as im sure you can all understand..
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Yes, replace the clutch cable.
Also, when you're saying it doesn't go in at all.. how cold are we talking here? below freezing?
Or just when the truck is cold?
Been through any deep creek crossings?  ;)
I had water in my tranny once.. not pretty. Also had mud in it once...
(http://www.granitepath.com/friends/kd7hcg/pictures/SAS/SASday4and5/DCP_5257.jpg)
(http://www.granitepath.com/friends/kd7hcg/pictures/SAS/SASday4and5/DCP_5259.jpg)
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ok im saying it doesn't go in until the trac's been running around 10 minutes. sometimes it wont go into reverse even when it's shut off. after it's warm it tends to be slightly better but still no where near good. no deep creeks *stock tires still
* and ill try to find out about the clutch cable replacement. i tighened up my cable now and it grabs the gear nice and hard :) but im still worried about my 2nd gear and reverse..sometimes when i try reverse it'll go half way into the gear then it's like it hits a stop *the shifter that is* and i have to take it back to neutral. double clutch and try again..sometimes it can take like 3 minutes to get it into reverse so it's kinda annoying
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sometimes when i try reverse it'll go half way into the gear then it's like it hits a stop *the shifter that is* and i have to take it back to neutral. double clutch and try again..sometimes it can take like 3 minutes to get it into reverse so it's kinda annoying
Mine does that too sometimes, but it allways helps if I double clutch then..... I thought it had something to do with the reverse being not synchronised ???
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Yeah, some of the early-90's Canadian made rigs were pretty hard shifting when the temps drop below freezing. Warming them up (driving 10 minutes or so) helps. I found sticking the rig in the garage helped, too.
Then you get a ham-handed driver (slamming gears) and it rounds the synchro for 2nd gear & maybe 3rd.
I was told switching to 40W oil in the tranny helps, but haven't had the nerve to try it myself.
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well i found out just the other day the rig doesn't have the original tranny in it...so im stuck with either trying to deal with it and run it as is..or pay to rebuild the tranny or find another one used and put it in...i don't think anything i do is going to help that 2nd gear. when im 4lowin it i almost come to a complete stop before it lets me shift into 2nd from 1st. what would you do? i don't have a ton of loot to spare so any advice is appreciated
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Did you change the oil with 75W? Thicker oils make these trannies harder to shift.
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my family has had 2 track.kicks and both didnt go into reverse sometimes..sometimes u have to double clutch or roll foreward a little
hope that helps a little