ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: Dale.E on November 28, 2007, 10:03:44 AM
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I need some info so I get my right bits b4 I disasemble.
can anyone supply the ID of the springs on the 1989-2000 Kicks plz (mine is a 92)
I am going to use a spring spacer for lift, want to use my stock springs. OME is out of my price range.
will spring spacers for JEEP work? this is why I need the ID of the springs, also is the front and rear spring on the Kicks the same size?
Thankx
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There ais a guy named jeff on this forum who makes spacers for your rig at agood price.Jeep spacers work but have to be bored out from what I understand
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The inside diameter of the front and rear springs vary between 2-1/4" and 2-1/2", at least that's what the inside diameter of the spacers need to be. I used to make them and I made mine with an ID of 2-1/2" and they seemed to fit just fine... The front and rear springs where the spacers go are the same size, however the front and rear springs are different heights and different rates(stiffness).
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There ais a guy named jeff on this forum who makes spacers for your rig at agood price.Jeep spacers work but have to be bored out from what I understand
Thanx, found him and shot a PM off, see where that goes.
I am quite budget constrained, wife hates new toy :) says I spent enough on my dirt bikes.
Might go and make my own, but if Jeff's are cheap enough.... well lets see :)
The inside diameter of the front and rear springs vary between 2-1/4" and 2-1/2", at least that's what the inside diameter of the spacers need to be. I used to make them and I made mine with an ID of 2-1/2" and they seemed to fit just fine... The front and rear springs where the spacers go are the same size, however the front and rear springs are different heights and different rates(stiffness).
Thank y ou for this info!! perfect :)
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Dale,
I think I've run the gamut ...
I started with some of the rockyroad spacers (they are now about 1/2" thick)
Got some TJ spacers I drilled out and they worked ok... (but not like I saved any money from folks that offer them pre-done here now).
I also do actually have some of diggers spacers I never installed (but probably will this winter).
I'd say jeffs are probably a good to go ... afterall it's just a spacer.
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I started with some of the rockyroad spacers (they are now about 1/2" thick)
My RR spacer ended up bulging out on one side and looking rather useless. :)
Jeff was kind enough to make me a 3/4" space for the front. I run the Digger 1" spacer in the rear, gives me just about perfect clearance for the slightly larger tires and evens out the front end. You can't go wrong with either spacer kit.
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One little bit of advice, though...
The RRO spacers seem to be made from rubber and they deform over time, losing their height and getting squished from the weight. I would suggest staying away from them. They do give a nice, quiet smooth ride, but wont give much lift over time... Stay with stiffer urethane and UHMW material, they seem to last much longer.
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One little bit of advice, though...
The RRO spacers seem to be made from rubber and they deform over time, losing their height and getting squished from the weight. I would suggest staying away from them. They do give a nice, quiet smooth ride, but wont give much lift over time... Stay with stiffer urethane and UHMW material, they seem to last much longer.
You're right about them squishing out. They're softer rubber than the stock spring bushes are, as far as i can tell. I should grab one (have a couple laying around) and show how flexible they are and post it up...
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Dale,
I think I've run the gamut ...
I started with some of the rockyroad spacers (they are now about 1/2" thick)
Got some TJ spacers I drilled out and they worked ok... (but not like I saved any money from folks that offer them pre-done here now).
I also do actually have some of diggers spacers I never installed (but probably will this winter).
I'd say jeffs are probably a good to go ... afterall it's just a spacer.
I think I found the best one off got it all kit for the best $ yet. how does 155$ sound for:
4 x 1.5" spring spacers UHDPE made for Suzuki not altered from something else.
2 x 1.5" strut spacer's also UHDPE with bolts.
2 x rear shock relocator's
Only thing missing is the Camber bolts. check it out.
SKY OFFROAD DESIGNS
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/
look under the sidekick section.
I kinda want to go with Jeff's as he is offering a great deal but I need the strut spacers and shock bits as well......
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Dale, I used Jeff's 2' in the rear, and 1 1/2" up front. I flipped the strut mounts so I didn't need anything else up front to make it work (there's a link somewhere here how to do it) and just had to buy longer rear shocks.
Same money you're talking about, but new rear shocks to boot. Thing rides real smooth.
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Dale, If you use Sky's kit you will have to weld on the rear shock mounts Or use the crown vic. shocks. I just installed this settup on a friends 94 tracker with a 2" body lift. He's running 31x10.50 M/T with 2.75 back spaced rims. We just had to trim the front fenders a little but it looks good and the kit is well made.
Kevin
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Dale, I used Jeff's 2' in the rear, and 1 1/2" up front. I flipped the strut mounts so I didn't need anything else up front to make it work (there's a link somewhere here how to do it) and just had to buy longer rear shocks.
Same money you're talking about, but new rear shocks to boot. Thing rides real smooth.
Ya I am leaning back and forth atm, I want the 2" in the rear and the Sky kit is 1.5" both frt and rear.
I am not sure on the flip, I think fabing or buying a spacer is better, tho till I tear it appart to fully see the flip idea in action I guess I cant be sure. fabin the strut spacer would be easy myself with a hunk of UHDPE plastic 1.5" thick just cut it to be what I want kinda thing. I want to replace the rear shocks with Pro Comp 2" extended shocks. if they can be had cheap enough.... still lookin :)
Dale, If you use Sky's kit you will have to weld on the rear shock mounts Or use the crown vic. shocks. I just installed this settup on a friends 94 tracker with a 2" body lift. He's running 31x10.50 M/T with 2.75 back spaced rims. We just had to trim the front fenders a little but it looks good and the kit is well made.
Kevin
Thanx Kevin, I think the New Sky kit now has bolt on shock extenders, I belive they just changed that.
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I am not sure on the flip, I think fabing or buying a spacer is better, tho till I tear it appart to fully see the flip idea in action I guess I cant be sure.
The flip is the easy part:
Using those spring compressors is ANOTHER matter. (A PITA, which is why I paid my mechanic to do it.)
By the way:
Depending on your new rear replacement shocks, you may or not be able to use the new bolts that come with them--the bolts are too big and there's not enough steel around the truck's mounting holes to drill them out wider. So now, using your old bolts, they may be too SMALLl for the new shocks, and will clank around--not fit snug in there. So you'll need to jerry-rig some little insert sleeves to sit in the shock's mounting hole.
All depend on your truck's year and what shocks you buy, and you won't know until you get to work on it.
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Dale.E, I have the combo set of 2-1.5" and 2-2" spacers ready to go if you want them. All the other guys are right, it's just different ways to get to the same result. I have personally been very happy with my product and i think others like them too. You are right the strut spacer is easy to make and the rear shocks should be replaced not just relocated as the other kit would have you do. I bought the other kit at first then made my own spacers from theirs because theirs were too soft. I also just tossed the shock relocaters and got longer ones. It's totally up to you but just thought I'd jump in and let you know I've got them ready to go. The combo is $80 to the US or $85 to Canada. Thanks, Jeff
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I think the New Sky kit now has bolt on shock extenders, I belive they just changed that.
I liked their old weld on ones, They were straight out the axle tube rather than hanging down a few inches. I think you can still get them, just have to call them.
Personally, I'd recommend 1.5" spacer in the front, and 2" spacer in the rear. The rest you've already read.
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Ok, its decided, thought it all out and Jeff's lift bits are best, get me what I want and quality I want for least $
I have now seen the strut mounts and see how the flip works, ok that looks real easy!!!
Most peeps say however that an additonal 3/8" is needed on top of the flip and use a header collector flange to do it. anyone know the size of those flange's? I plan to drop into an exaust shop and see if I can figure them out, and maybe still use 2 each strut and some 3/4" spacer pipe welded together to make a 1.5" spacer. If I need to add the 3/8" to the flip I might as well go that last bit and make the spacers!
Going to go to Pro Comp Rear shocks, they have longer travel and rubber boots for only a few $ each part number I have verifyed is ES1000 #120510 These shocks are for the Kicks 89-99 2dr and I think 4dr but I was not looking for 4dr so dont hold me to that. They work for stock lift up to 2" lift, they do this by simply being a longer travel shock. Turns out my clutch is also going, damn. Anyone ever used the Rhino Pac clutches? I think unless someone says they are dung thats the way I will go.
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I am not sure on the flip, I think fabing or buying a spacer is better, tho till I tear it appart to fully see the flip idea in action I guess I cant be sure.
The flip is the easy part:
Using those spring compressors is ANOTHER matter. (A PITA, which is why I paid my mechanic to do it.)
By the way:
Depending on your new rear replacement shocks, you may or not be able to use the new bolts that come with them--the bolts are too big and there's not enough steel around the truck's mounting holes to drill them out wider. So now, using your old bolts, they may be too SMALLl for the new shocks, and will clank around--not fit snug in there. So you'll need to jerry-rig some little insert sleeves to sit in the shock's mounting hole.
All depend on your truck's year and what shocks you buy, and you won't know until you get to work on it.
Fortunately I have access to a spring compressor as and my mech is a good buddy. He just adjusted my clutch replaced my thermostat and bled my brakes all for 30$ yesterday :) at his shop! I regularly get great breaks there.
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Most peeps say however that an additonal 3/8" is needed on top of the flip and use a header collector flange to do it. anyone know the size of those flange's?
with a strut flip, you need something to compensate for the "lip" the stock strut mount has. I've used washers, I think an flange is a better solution (but my stacked washers never let me down either).
As to size? ... I *think* a stock SBC flange is what ya need, but easiest is to pull one of the strut tower strut mounts, go to a NAPA and have them find the one that fits.
I plan to drop into an exaust shop and see if I can figure them out, and maybe still use 2 each strut and some 3/4" spacer pipe welded together to make a 1.5" spacer. If I need to add the 3/8" to the flip I might as well go that last bit and make the spacers!
if ya can fab the spacers yourself, I'd say do it.
I expect that an exhaust shop tho will give ya bunches of blank stares.
Turns out my clutch is also going, damn. Anyone ever used the Rhino Pac clutches? I think unless someone says they are dung thats the way I will go.
I can;t comment on which clutch ya should get ... there are good aftermarket clutches (centerforce and I think petrowerks has a good one too).
But, if you're going to be dropping the tranny ... go ahead and do tcase gears too. It's spendy ($650 from trailtough), but is by far the best $$$ you will spend when you put it into 4lo. (it's an easy install if you're careful).
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I can;t comment on which clutch ya should get ... there are good aftermarket clutches (centerforce and I think petrowerks has a good one too).
But, if you're going to be dropping the tranny ... go ahead and do tcase gears too. It's spendy ($650 from trailtough), but is by far the best $$$ you will spend when you put it into 4lo. (it's an easy install if you're careful).
I want the centerforce but its fair bit more expensive, well over 100$ more. The RhinoPac appears to be OEM plus a little bit if you get me, so just a bit better than stock, as this is still a light duty toy not going full out 33's etc I think it will do me for many years.
I would love to change the t-gears but damn that is outside the budget, way outside.