ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: Ira on December 12, 2007, 04:49:43 AM
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I'm heading south on local road doing 40 (limit is 45), about to cross an east-west road.
A woman in an SUV is going north approaching the same east-west road and decides to ignore her obligation to yield and makes a left turn without so much as batting an eyelash, heading right for a HUGE crunch with me. (It's as if she was intentionally trying to commit suicide, but if she was, she picked the wrong vehicle to do it with. A 2-door Tracker?)
I'm guessing I had 20, 30 feet to hit the brakes and avoid a head-on. I slam them hardl, and I hear the loudest rumbling and feel the most intensive vibrations you can imagine, like a 10 on the Richter scale. My truck stops, no accident, and like no skid either.
Weird thing is, I'm sure I need new breaks--mechanic told me but can't afford it now--but no skid? Is that because of the larger tires (235s) and the light weight of the vehicle?
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Weird thing is, I'm sure I need new breaks--mechanic told me but can't afford it now--but no skid? Is that because of the larger tires (235s) and the light weight of the vehicle?
No, you're just lucky. Larger tires make brakes less effective, hence why guys add larger calipers/rotors and/or rear disc when upping to big rubber.
Go to RockAuto.com and order up brake parts. They are the cheapest by far. Get the FSM, or look at it on autozone.com, and do the brakes yourself. This is important. Before anyone lifts, locks, gears or runs bigger meats, the money should be spent on making things right and safe first.
and you just did a legal sin. Admit to you knowing something is wrong, but continuing to use it anyway. God forbid you get into a crash and hurt someone, and in the remote chance the see/find this post, your crash goes from being a simple accident to negligence, which would open you to a tort claim, and punitive damages.
Fix your brakes.
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if you have RWAL (rear wheel anti-lock) that coulda been the pulsing/shudder you felt. (or if you have an even later model with true ABS) ...
I agree tho fix your brakes.
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A mechanic told me to fix my bakes "soon"--a mechanic who makes money off of everything I decide to do.
I have no freaking idea what I'm looking at, and sure as hell couldn't do it myself.
But bringing up a cardinal sin and LEGAL MATTERS into this?
Come on--the brakes WORKED, remember!?
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Yep they worked. Take a quarter and place it on your desk. Give it a flick with your finger so it slides across the surface. Did it stay on or fall off? If it stayed on give it another flick and repeat.
Point being if you yourself don't know the condition of your brakes other than they need replaced, you have no idea how close to edge you are and how many more flicks it will take before it falls off.
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A mechanic told me to fix my bakes "soon"--a mechanic who makes money off of everything I decide to do.
well, there is that ... honestly, checking/fixing your own brakes aint much harder than changing oil. Get some basic tools and DIY.
I have no freaking idea what I'm looking at, and sure as hell couldn't do it myself.
yes you can ... we're here to help ya. Everyone starts someplace, and it's get a toolset ($150 or so a sears), and a FSM (about $100), and you can learn how to fix/work on YOUR car. This $250 may sound like a lot but it's one time purchase rather than the RAPE a mech will charge at $50 per hour.
Come on--the brakes WORKED, remember!?
yup, they did ... glad to hear it.
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a mech will charge $50 per hour
Wow, you must get a discount! Around here they start at $80/hr. Man am I glad my dad raised me on wrenches. ;D
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a mech will charge $50 per hour
Wow, you must get a discount! Around here they start at $80/hr. Man am I glad my dad raised me on wrenches. ;D
Yep:
Standard rate here is $90 an hour.
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Don't let some of the replies get too you. Just because you don't know a mechanic has told you that you need them, doesn't mean that you you need them. And not knowing anything about your own repairs doesn't mean you can't learn.
You can buy a way cheaper set of tools to get started and a chiltons book for a lot less also. At least you can learm the simple things for half of what was stated. Which you can spend the rest on a couple of items not listed. To do a brake job you really need a jack and a set of jack stands, and a little confidence.
Hows the rig drive and stop since then? If the rig is acting different, pulling, shuddering, loud screeching noises, things like that, you really need to do something about the brakes before they become breaks.
I have only had to panic stop my Sammy once and that was this summer. Some bozo broad (seems to be a theme here) stops in the middle of the highway in front of me to allow a gal and her kids to cross. I locked it up and stopped in about 20/25' which isn't bad since I was doing about 35+. It would have been less as I spent part of that 20/25' in the air as the new disc's at all four corners stopped the rig so quickly it caused the rig to hop offf the ground. And that is with 32" Swampers, you get traction in more than mud with those things. So if and when you get the coin, put disc's on the rear, just make sure they are set up correctly.
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Good set of tools from Wal-Mart: $30 (I think I got mine for $25, and has just about everything I could want). Or - get a friend who has his own tools.
Disk break setup from dismantlers, or "for sale" section here: $100
Instructions: Free (Many people have upgraded their brakes here, and shown How-To with pics)
Really - the most underlooked upgrade is breaks. I've beat a LOT LOT LOT of people on the track with WAY faster cars & motorcycles because I focused on BREAKS. The faster you can slow down, the safer you are - and the better track times you'll have.
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a mech will charge $50 per hour
Wow, you must get a discount! Around here they start at $80/hr. Man am I glad my dad raised me on wrenches. ;D
Yep:
Standard rate here is $90 an hour.
shows ya how long it's been since I paid a mech for work :)
and yea, you can get cheaper toolsets ... I just guestimated that around $150 get's a pretty complete set (and craftsman isn't complete junk like some of the chinese stuff).
getting an FSM can be spendy, but if this is a sami, then the FSM is online (so free).
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and yea, you can get cheaper toolsets ... I just guestimated that around $150 get's a pretty complete set (and craftsman isn't complete junk like some of the chinese stuff).
Agreed, Go with the craftsman, They are as good as anything out there and less expensive, plus a no hassle replacement guarantee. Just had to exchange an old ratchet I have had for probably 20 years no problem walked out with a brand new one no questions asked. I used to use only Snap-on sockets and wrenches because of the patented design of the teeth but now that the patent has expired and Craftsman uses the same design I'll go with the Craftsman
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and yea, you can get cheaper toolsets ... I just guestimated that around $150 get's a pretty complete set (and craftsman isn't complete junk like some of the chinese stuff).
Agreed, Go with the craftsman, They are as good as anything out there and less expensive, plus a no hassle replacement guarantee. Just had to exchange an old ratchet I have had for probably 20 years no problem walked out with a brand new one no questions asked. I used to use only Snap-on sockets and wrenches because of the patented design of the teeth but now that the patent has expired and Craftsman uses the same design I'll go with the Craftsman
The first time you're pulling like hell on a wrench and the socket splits, you'll never EVER trust a cheap tool again. It sounds like a gunshot and feels like you just punched a sharp piece of non-budging iron as hard as you you possibly can. Which, of course, you just did.
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The first time you're pulling like hell on a wrench and the socket splits, you'll never EVER trust a cheap tool again. It sounds like a gunshot and feels like you just punched a sharp piece of non-budging iron as hard as you you possibly can. Which, of course, you just did.
Bin there done that, got the T shirt. I even had it happen with Craftsmen sockets back in the late 70's early 80's when Craftsmen tools were junk. That has changed now I use my tools hard and I see no difference between Craftsmen quality and Snap-on quality. Craftsman has better prices and it is more convenient for me to go to sears than to wait for a tool truck.
I am not knocking Snap-on I love their tools they work really well I am just saying that I am happy with the quality and performance of Craftsman tools at half the price.
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A mechanic told me to fix my bakes "soon"--a mechanic who makes money off of everything I decide to do.
Hmm, it might be my eyes but I swore I read...
Weird thing is, I'm sure I need new breaks
So, are YOU sure or are YOU unsure? If you're sure, then you are being irresponsible for driving an auto on public streets that is unsafe. If you are unsure, is it just because you don't trust mechanics?
As far as a mechanic making money off everything you choose to do, well, DUH! Where do you live that unrelated people do things for you for free? If I follow your line of reasoning, autos never need repairs and if a mechanic says it does, he's only looking for money. There is a liability concern if a mechanic finds a unsafe condition and DOESN'T tell the owner/driver.
Riddle me this, if the BRAKES failed and you crashed into her, and the police blamed you for inoperative equipment, and that lady sued you, would you ask why didn't the mechanic that looked at your auto not tell you of the unsafe condition?
I have no freaking idea what I'm looking at, and sure as hell couldn't do it myself.
First, everyone started off that way. And two, with patience and willingness to learn , you can very easily do simply repairs, like new BRAKES. Many here, including myself, will help those who are willing to help themselves.
But bringing up a cardinal sin and LEGAL MATTERS into this?
Because you acted in a negligent manner. DUTY=>BREACH=>CAUSE=>DAMAGES. These are the 4 key parts to a Tort liability suit. You have a duty to operate your auto in a safe manner. Disregarding advice of a mechanic to fix the unsafe condition and continuing to operate the auto constitutes breach of duty. If this breach caused injury and/or damages, the law says you are liable. I'm pointing out something to keep your arse out of trouble, not to pick on you.
Besides, I find it abhorent that anyone would take other peoples lives into their hands by driving an auto that is unsafe to be on the road. And yes, bad BRAKES areunsafe. I don't even like wheeling with guys whose rigs are held together with spit and bailing wire, as it puts me and my rig in jeapordy, and trail rides suck when we have to stop to keep fixing someones turdmobile.
Come on--the brakes WORKED, remember!?
If that is truly the case, then why did this post even start?
And for those follow this, its BRAKES not breaks. :P ;) :laugh:
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This thread seems to be full of mechanics and lawyers it brakes my heart ;)
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If the brakes are strong enough i would think that the added surface area of the larger tires would infact increase your stopping ability.
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If the brakes are strong enough i would think that the added surface area of the larger tires would infact increase your stopping ability.
nah, the increased rotating mass easily overcomes the increased contact patch.
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nah, the increased rotating mass easily overcomes the increased contact patch.
Bingo.
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Brakes aren't bad to do by yourself.
Goto Autozone and get a Haynes manual. Nice starter DIY book. Read up on the brake section, ask tons of questions here, you'll get it done!
Give yourself a weekend, and make sure you have all the tools and parts you'll need. Ask questions!
You can do it! You know how I know?
Cause we where all there once!! 8)
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Here you go, don't even need to buy a book. Pictures and all.
front brakes:
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1e/10/2d/0900823d801e102d/repairInfoPages.htm (http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1e/10/2d/0900823d801e102d/repairInfoPages.htm)
rear brakes:
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1e/11/00/0900823d801e1100/repairInfoPages.htm
Everything else you need is right there. Got questions or need help? Ask here.
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Really - the most underlooked upgrade is breaks. I've beat a LOT LOT LOT of people on the track with WAY faster cars & motorcycles because I focused on BREAKS. The faster you can slow down, the safer you are - and the better track times you'll have.
How could you have beaten a LOT LOT LOT of people on the track when you were in the pit's broken because you focused on the BREAKS? :laugh: :laugh:
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And for those follow this, its BRAKES not breaks. :P ;) :laugh:
im relieved someone finally said something
and before i forget... its LOSE not LOOSE
;)
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Tim, the LAST job I would attempt to do myself as a FIRST job is brakes--now that's not just irresponsible, it could be murder.
I'll come up with the scratch and get her done, but she's been riding fine and no noise/squealing at all.
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Ira,
I think you're being really hard on yourself. If you know your left from your right, and can read, you CAN do this. Even if you don't have a friend or woman to help you bleed the brakes, no problem. Speed bleeders are cheap, and make it a 1 man job.
Loaded calipers can be had at Rock Auto for under $40, and that's if you need calipers. Sounds like all you need is pads, which are under $12. In the rear, shoes cost $8, and wheel cylinders if you need them (only if they are leaking) are just $6. Rotors are under $10 each (cheaper than turning the ones you have), and drums are $37, but those could be turned at a NAPA for $10 each (again, if it it needs them because of scoring).
If I do the math, to do a true COMPLETE brake job, it would cost only $194 for parts, plus shipping (which is less than tax at a parts store) and some fluid and stuff, for under $250, you'd have new calipers, rotors, pads, wheel cylinders, shoes and drums. At a shop, that could set you back $1000 easy. And you'd have completely new brakes and the peace of mind that you are safe, and that you didn't get screwed by the shop.
Again, it NOT that hard at all. Hell, if you made the trip to my place (don't know where you are), I'd let you use my shop and I would help you do it. In total, it would take about 2-2.5 hours tops. Its a very empowering feeling that YOU fixed the truck. :angel:
And with that extra $750, you could buy some nice bits for the Kicker. ;)
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Even if you don't have a friend or woman to help you bleed the brakes, no problem. Speed bleeders are cheap, and make it a 1 man job.
also I know Schucks and madbe even zone rent hand vacuum bleaders for cheep There slick. I bought one for $44 and love it
Good luck with the brakes
Ryan
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My wife did the brakes on her car last month. She watched me do one wheel and did the others with no problem. It was probably the first mechanical thing she has ever don. If she can do it any one can
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Ira,
I think you're being really hard on yourself. If you know your left from your right, and can read, you CAN do this. Even if you don't have a friend or woman to help you bleed the brakes, no problem. Speed bleeders are cheap, and make it a 1 man job.
Loaded calipers can be had at Rock Auto for under $40, and that's if you need calipers. Sounds like all you need is pads, which are under $12. In the rear, shoes cost $8, and wheel cylinders if you need them (only if they are leaking) are just $6. Rotors are under $10 each (cheaper than turning the ones you have), and drums are $37, but those could be turned at a NAPA for $10 each (again, if it it needs them because of scoring).
If I do the math, to do a true COMPLETE brake job, it would cost only $194 for parts, plus shipping (which is less than tax at a parts store) and some fluid and stuff, for under $250, you'd have new calipers, rotors, pads, wheel cylinders, shoes and drums. At a shop, that could set you back $1000 easy. And you'd have completely new brakes and the peace of mind that you are safe, and that you didn't get screwed by the shop.
Again, it NOT that hard at all. Hell, if you made the trip to my place (don't know where you are), I'd let you use my shop and I would help you do it. In total, it would take about 2-2.5 hours tops. Its a very empowering feeling that YOU fixed the truck. :angel:
And with that extra $750, you could buy some nice bits for the Kicker. ;)
Okay---let me think about this and I'll Pm you and others.
I'm unemployed now, so I sure as hell have the time.
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I'm unemployed now, so I sure as hell have the time.
And you could use keeping the labor cost in your pocket.
I just checked your profile. Your south FLA. I don't think it would be cost effective to stop by my place. ;)
BUT, you could prolly find a fellow Zooker in your general vicinity that may offer to help, should you get hung up, but I don't think that should happen. The fronts are wicked easy, the rear isn't much harder.
*in the voice of the freaky 'roid-fueled guy who sells the Gazelle exerciser in infomercials*
YOU CAN DO IT!!! ;D
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also I know Schucks and madbe even zone rent hand vacuum bleaders for cheep There slick. I bought one for $44 and love it
Good luck with the brakes
Ryan
For some one that has never done a brake job before, bleeding brakes is a step or two over comfort or knowledge level. I know it is a part of a complete brake job but you do not have to bleed the brakes if you only have to change the pad's/shoes and resurface the disk's/drums.
Ira, a brake job is an easy thing to do. Don't take it wrong but I think most of us replying have been wrenchin' since school if not earlier, or they have been speed wrenchin'. :laugh:
Just follow the instructions, take your time and have faith in yourself. I don't want to sound like dr fill but you can do it.
Oh, and just for some heads up. The drums take more cussin', throwing of tools, lookin' at books, and asking of question's than the disk's do. Don't be scared of the words but just be aware that the springs holding the shoes will fight all the way, they have a mind of their own at times. It will help if you have the correct tool here which you can rent I believe from schucks and those kind of stores. But a couple of screw drivers, a good sized pair of pliers and an attitude can do the same thing.