ZUKIWORLD Online | Suzuki 4x4 Editorial and Forum
ZUKIWORLD Discussion Forum => Suzuki 4x4 Forum => Topic started by: bentparts on January 06, 2008, 03:56:27 PM
-
Well I finally did it. I came across a deal too good to pass up on a set of 5 33x10.50 BFG AT Ko's. I thought to myself, self, you can make them work. I already got low range t case gears, and the steel front diff. Stan's Toy conversion kit in the front, some heavy duty axles in the rear, and I'll be all set. Well I should'a measured first. Even with 3+ inches of lift, and a 2" body lift, and the Hagen mods front and rear, those freakin things look HUGE in the wheel well. They fit in there, but all the clearence I gained with the Hagen mods is gone. So now my choices are to start sawing up the fender wells on my rust free Tracker, with no body damage to speak of, and try to squeeze an inch more lift out of the suspension ( more body lift is out of the question, 2" and it already looks stupid) or just sell them and get a set of 31/32 Bfg mud terrains. 4 of these tires are are like new, still have the casting hairs in the treads, the 5th is at least 80%. Opinions? Man, I really don't want to cut this thing up yet.
-
I think you've summed it up. Either start cutting, or sell and buy smaller. I want 32's eventually, when the right deal comes along.
The other option is to play with wheel offsets. You may be able to have them clear with a lesser offset wheel. That's just a guess though.
-
it would be pretty sweet to see a tracker on 33s though. thats a tuff choice.
-
Hi there,
My Tracker has only a 2" body lift and I fit 33/12.5's under it with generous fender trimming and some inner wheel well manipulation. I have wheeled it hard and fast in the snow and have had no rubbing.
In the front I just trimmed and was planning to weld the old "reworked" inner lip.
I went to a full competition cut in the back and had to relocate the filler on the inner wheelwell, but going this far was not needed to clear the tires so you could stay legal. You would however have to make new wheel well on the top but there is a seem left to weld to.
I'm looking forward to trying this mod on my next Track/Kick, as this one is too rought to work from, and it's been sold.
well... good luck with the project.
Cheers
h (http://h)www.freakcreation.org/4701/5622.html
-
You don't have to hack the thing up to trim the fenders. I have 33's on mine. you can trim the fenders and still have it look like factory, it's not hard.
-
Armour, got any photos's of your rig with the 33's on? I'd like to see what you did to the fenders.
-
if the rears clear half way decent take off your front fenders and tube up the front end, you will have all kinds of clearance, not to mention it will be a major attention getter. Then you have the option of selling your front fenders etc. or keep them, you can always go back. I am looking at doing the same to mine
-
If you off road a lot you may like the smaller MUD terrains more than the big ATs. jmopinion.
-
Bentparts. I have a few pics in the gallery under "poser shots". I have some more but i have recently relocated computers and haven't transfered pics. I have alot of lift so all i had to trim some off the rear side of the front fender. All I did was marked the bottom of the front fender about half way between the wheel opening and the edge of the fender where it meets the door. Then with tape shape into wheel opening so it looks factory. I even folded the lip again and reattached the plastic inner fender piece so you can't really tell
-
got 35's on mine but i also got solid front axles and custom suspension. depends on how bad you wanna make them fit.
-
What you need is a front A-arm drop. I started with the front bracket, but haven't yet had time to have the rear one cut out.
Here is a link to the first post that I made about this:
http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=17101.0
And here is a post showing my front bracket cut out and test fit:
http://www.zukiworld.com/forum/index.php?topic=19151.0
Just some food for thought.
Mike
-
Armour, checked yours out, looks Great, factory even. Nice work. I don't know why I'm worried about cutting, I even have a buddy that runs a body shop to give me a hand. I guess now that I got 'em, the 33's, I can see how big they really are and I'm more concerned with performance. Only one way to find out, tomorrow I'm gonna mount them up and give them a road test .
MKOLSEN, The A arm drop looks good, any word on you making some of those?
Pics with everything including my rear coil mods up soon, I promise!
-
The only thing I found with the 33's are at higher speeds. Seems to be alittle sluggish. But I am running an auto with 5.13's.
-
Mine's an auto 16v, with 5.13 also, and it runs pretty darn good with the 31's on it. I think I've decided to sell these and go with the BFG Mud Terrians in a 31 or 32 x10.50. I took some measurments with the 33 mounted and it'll fit now that i've given it a bit more lift, but I dont want to give up any more driveability on the highway. Right now I can cruise at 70 easy, and go pretty much anywhere I need or want too off road. I figure with a more aggressive tire like a BFG mud terrian, I should be that much more capable. The 33's are back up for sale. Photo's of everything at www.flickr.com/photos/bentparts.
-
Yeah mine is only an 8V. Your forced air also. That helps I'm sure.
-
Actually the turbo is on the bench for a rebuild, but even without the forced induction, all the other engine mods I did add up to a significant amount of additional horsepower, making for quite a good running engine, and still a 70mph cruiser on the highway.
-
Really? What kind of mods? The engine in my mine just blew a couple of weeks ago. So i due for a swap. Wouldn't mind putting some more ponies in to it. Not a great deal though. Just a bit more jam for the highway and through the mucky stuff. Just don't want to be breakin driveline parts either.
-
Well, I can tell you this much: If your gonna swap engines, find a 16v first. If you can afford to throw a few bucks at it, swap out the injectors for Nissan Pathfinder v6 200cc ones, advance timing 2 degrees, go with a header, Calmini or Thorley, 2" exhaust, gut or eliminate the cat if you can get away with it, Magna Flow muffler, and K+N air filter. Chuck the clutch fan in favor of an electric one, I think mine's a 14". A good set of plugs, wires, cap and rotor and a good valve adjustment will add up to a nice noticable power boost.
-
what year pathfinder injectors?? i have my timing set at about 3*...factory is 5*, this was a bit better for mine....i have a short ram intake and 2" exhaust, if i advance any more i hear spark knock under a load...like going up hills...
-
90's v6. I'll try and find the part #. You shouldn't have any spark knock, or detonation with a stock motor that's in good shape. Have you done anything else to the motor?
-
nope....just rebuilt it about 6 months ago.....and this was the conclusion that i came to....the motor is in excellent shape, i re-ringed and put new bearings in it...i have no idea why it detonates...but it does if i advance more than 3*.....ever heard of that???
-
I'm wondering if when you put everything back together you got the cam belt a tooth off, or the distributor a tooth off? It would still run ok as you would have enough room in the dizzy adjustment to bring it back into time, but it'll still be off a bit.
-
Thats what I would check too. Something could be off by a tooth.
-
Just a thought geeeooo, do you have any overheating issues ? That would also be a symptom of retarded timing.